a person reads; the columns being perpendicular to the length of the roll. In the first cupboard were six or eight manuscripts, enclosed in cases standing upright. The rods are inserted into holes in the top and bottom of the case; and extend up through the top, where they are ornamented with large silver knobs not made fast. The rolls are read as they stand in the cases, without being taken from the cupboard. The manuscript is thus wound off from one rod to the other as the reader advances, the rods being far enough apart to leave a column unrolled between. The other cupboard was also full of rolls; some of them in cases covered over with silver or embroidery. These were said to be presents from wealthy Jews in Europe. We bade adieu to these kind friends with feelings of respect; and were highly gratified by our visit.

We now repaired to the top of the western hill, in the hope of obtaining a view of the country around. In this we were more successful than I had been yesterday upon the eastern ridge; and from the watchtower of a vineyard some distance south of the road to Dhoherîyeh, a prospect opened towards the East and South and West, which was very extensive and satisfactory. Towards the N. and N. E. we could see little or nothing. Before us Beni Na'îm and Yukîn were visible near at hand; while in the distance we could distinguish Kerak very clearly. Further south the atmosphere was hazy; or we might perhaps have been able to make out Mount Hor. Carmel and the adjacent region were in full view. We could also mark the course of the great valley, which had formerly been on our right as we approached Beni Na'îm, and into which the valley of Hebron enters. It passes along S. W. on the North of Yutta and to the left of

1) See above, p. 186.

Dhoherîyeh, towards the region of Beersheba, where it apparently forms one of the main branches of Wady es-Seba'. Behind us, towards the W. and S. W. was a sea of rocky hills; on one of which we could distinguish the village of Dhoherîyeh. We took here several important bearings, which are given in the note below.'

The presence of three such dignitaries as the governors of Gaza, Jerusalem, and Hebron, could not but naturally occasion some stir in such a town; and accordingly their movements and actions were the object of general observation. They too seemed not unwilling to make an impression of their dignity and importance. At the mid-day hour of prayer, we could perceive them from our tent proceeding, not to the Haram, but to an open platform adjacent to the west side of the lower pool, near which they lodged, where they performed their devotions in public, surrounded by a crowd of idlers. Although we were not in general much disposed to seek intercourse with authorities, yet as we were now going into a part of the country where the Egyptian government was less known and less felt, we thought it best to lay before the governor of Hebron our Firmân from the Pasha, and inform him of our purpose, in order that in case of accident he might not throw off the responsibility, by saying we had gone without his knowledge. In the course of the afternoon, we therefore sent our servant with the Firmân to his excellency of Hebron, preparatory to paying our respects to him in person. The servant soon came back, saying that the three governors were still together, but could not read the Firmân; it being in

1) Bearings from the hill west of Hebron: The Haram below us, half a mile distant, N. 67° E. Beni Na'im, estimated distance one hour and a half, N. 82° E. Yükîn VOL. II.

57

S. 61° E. Kerak S. 50° E. Peak in the mountains of Moab near Khanzîreh, S. 37° E. Carmel, the tower, S. 8° E. Dhoherîyeh S. 54° W.

Turkish, and they having no Turkish secretary with them. They were however ready to receive us.

We accordingly repaired to the house where they lodged, in the western quarter of the town, near the lower pool; but found them at dinner. We were nevertheless ushered into the apartment where they were eating, after putting off our shoes; and taking our seats at the side of the room, had leisure to observe the scene before us, which was not in the slightest degree interrupted by our entrance. The house was not large. The room was a common one of the country, about twenty feet square; the ceiling rising into one of the usual small domes upon the roof above it. The stone floor was nearly covered with small carpets of various sizes, qualities and colours; while a few cushions were scattered in different parts along the walls.

The governor of Gaza, Sheikh Sa'îd, was the father of Sheikh Mustafa, governor of Jerusalem; while the governor of Hebron, whose name we did not learn, is subordinate to him of Jerusalem. Of course the principal personage was Sheikh Sa'id, a fine jolly elderly Mussulman, with good-natured intelligent features, and an air of decision, not inconsistent with an evident liking for the enjoyment of good cheer. His son, Sheikh Mustafa, was tall and slender, with a very fine and prepossessing countenance; the Franks indeed complained of him as uncourteous, but one would not expect it from his physiognomy. The Sheikh of Hebron had a more vulgar and almost forbidding aspect.

They were dining in the true oriental, and, as it would seem, official style. official style. A very large circular tray of tinned copper, placed upon a coarse wooden stool about a foot high, served as the table. In the centre of this stood a large tray or dish with a mountain of

pillaw, composed of rice boiled and buttered, with small pieces of meat strewed through and upon it. This was the chief dish; although there were also other smaller dishes, both of meat and vegetables. Around this table ten persons, including the three governors, were seated, or rather squatted on their feet. Each had before him a plate of tinned copper and a wooden spoon. Some used the spoon, without the plate; but the most preferred to eat with the fingers of the left hand, without the aid of either spoon or plate. They all seemed earnestly engaged, and took no notice of any interruption. When at length any one had finished, he immediately rose, and went and washed his hands, by having water poured upon them in an adjacent room. The vacant place at table was immediately filled by a new comer. The Sheikh of Gaza outsat them all; but at last turned round and greeted us kindly. He was the only one who did not leave his place to wash; but had the water brought to him where he sat. An old Derwish from Bagdad was also present, now on his return from Mecca; he had made use of his spoon, and did not wash at all.

Sheikh Sa'îd now drew back to the middle of that side of the room where we were sitting, opposite to the entrance, so that we were now on his left. His colleagues took their seats on his right; the old Derwish sat down near us on our left; ten or twelve other persons were seated around the room; while many were continually passing in and out. Sheikh Sa'id was emphatically the great man, gave all the orders, and led the whole conversation; his colleagues sitting in such a position, that they could not address us, nor we them. A poor ragged peasant now came in with perfect unconcern, presented himself before

Sheikh Sa'id, uncovered his wounded shoulder, and begged charity. The Sheikh instantly sent him out; at the same time ordering a garment to be given him. This is one of the traits of oriental society and government, that the highest are thus entirely accessible to the lowest. Coffee was now brought, and presented first to the three Sheikhs, then to us, and afterwards to the rest. There was a good deal of conversation in the room; the old Derwish made inquiries about the new world; he began at length a sort of homily upon the vanity of wealth and power, in which he was rather unceremoniously cut short by Sheikh Sa'îd, and soon left the room.

The Sheikh confirmed the intelligence we had heard, that Jerusalem was shut up; but said an order had since been received from the head-quarters at Aleppo, to impose no quarantine upon the city at large, but only upon the houses where the plague should actually exist. He supposed that the gates would be immediately opened. This was welcome news to us; but the latter part at least did not turn out to be true. He further said, that there was now no danger whatever in going to Wady Mûsa, and made not the slightest objection to our undertaking the journey, but rather gave it his sanction. We too were disposed to regard the present as a favourable moment for accomplishing our object; for the visit of the governors to this region would of course be known among the Bedawîn, and prevent for the time any hostile incursion from the Arabs east of the Dead Sea and Ghôr; the only source from which any danger was to be apprehended to travellers. The conversation of Sheikh Sa'id showed him to be a man of quickness and good sense; and it was probably this union of intelligence and bonhommie, that had obtained for him the confidence of Muhammed