From Prof. Samuel B. Green of the Minnesota Experiment Station.

Mr. A. G. Tuttle, late of Baraboo, always impressed me as a man of keen judgment, who meant to be perfectly just in what he did, and feared nothing. As a horticulturist he was progressive, energetic, far sighted and reliable. I felt when he died. that I had lost a dear personal friend.

I would be very glad to add more to this memorial, but take it that you would not have space for more than this.

I think I shall plan to have a photograph of Mr. Tuttle for my gallery of eminent northwestern horticulturists, to hang in my class room.

From A. J. Philips, a Charter Member of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society.

I always held Mr. Tuttle and his good, faithful wife in the highest esteem. I visited them many times and always admired his pluck and energy. He was ready to add a helping hand to anything he conscientiously thought right, and just as ready to pronounce his disapproval of anything he thought: was wrong or misleading. You always knew where to find. A. G. Tuttle when you asked his opinion. He was vice-president from Sauk county at the organization of the State Horticultural Society at Janesville in 1856 and was a hardworking, worthy member during all the years since. He personally exhibited apples after he was eighty years of age.

IN MEMORY OF MY FRIEND, A. G. TUTTLE.

Geo. J. Kellogg, Charter Member of the State Horticultural Society.

In reviewing my horticultural work in Wisconsin since 1852 very few men have stood higher in my estimation than A. G. Tuttle. He was most active and enthusiastic in introducing the Russian apples, in correcting their nomenclature, in selecting and in proving their adaptation. No one ever took more pride in showing the finest exhibits of the Russian and American apples. Mr. Tuttle was ever to the front in Wisconsin horticulture and his place can never be filled.

HENRY FLOYD.

Dr. Loope: It seems to devolve upon me to say something of our Mr. Henry Floyd, who died last spring, and I cannot give you the date; unfortunately his family were not in the state, or where I could see them, they were at Eureka Springs, and the daughter wrote me that she thought perhaps I could say a few words about her father here.

The end with Mr. Floyd came very suddenly on a Sunday afternoon. He was reading the newspaper to his wife and he had been reading some time when he seemed to hesitate and she said, "Why don't you go on?" and the paper fell, and the mentality of Mr. Floyd was gone. I was there within two minutes and knew that the end was near and there was no consciousness left. He lived very close to me. I have known Mr. Floyd for more than thirty-five years. He was a strong man physically and mentally. He was an energetic man, he was unceasing in whatever he laid his hand to. He also retained his mental powers in quite a good degree up to the time of his death. For a year or two he had some premonition of this same end, at least so it seemed. He had sudden attacks of dizziness and the winter before he spent in Eureka Springs with his son and was attacked there, so that they were quite sure that something was coming to him and spoke to me about it, still he went about as usual up to the time of his death.

He very early engaged in horticulture. He planted an orchard in the town of Aurora, near Eureka many years ago; I think in the fifties, and had a successful orchard there for a good many years. However, he planted the old varieties that succeeded in the East and they could not succeed in his location. for any great length of time. Still, in 1885 he had a great many apples there. He also was engaged in raising some fruit stock; he always was grafting some apples or some plums or pears, and he always had a plot of them, even up to the time of his death, and after he left his farm life and came into the village, I have seen him drive out a great many times about three miles to a little plat of ground where he had been grafting plums and pears and apples and things of that kind. He took a great deal of pride in the plat and of late years he never sold them, he let rabbits eat them up, and of course gave some away.

He was a man, as I said, of strong mentality, a strong character, somewhat intolerant in his opinions, he generally thought with a great deal of care, he may not have been always right, but he was always very sure that he was nearly right, and that was a characteristic of the man. He was always present at the local horticultural society, and I think attended the State Horticultural Society very closely for a good many years, not always of late years. Many of you know him and have known him for years, and you have your estimate of his character as well as I. He was a thorough horticulturist always, it was his pride and his hobby and he continued in business as long as he lived.

SPRING FLOWERING BULBS.*

F. Cranefield.

The spring-flowering bulbs are a joy and a blessing. Flower beds and borders that would otherwise be bare and unsightly in the spring may, if filled with tulips, be a blaze of color for weeks. These with crocus, narcissus and others of the Holland bulbs, will give an abundance of bloom before the annuals and the summer flowering plants may be safely planted. In order to have this it is necessary to plant in the fall. October is the month for preparation for this brilliant spring show. But the planting may be done any time before the ground freezes.

Crocus, tulips and similar bulbs are grown in Holland and are sent to us in late sumer or early autumn and may then be had from florists or seedmen dry and dormant. The bulbs have in their thickened leaves a storehouse of food surrounding the perfectly formed embryo blossoms. We need only to plant them in rich well drained soil any time before the ground is frozen and cover with a mulch of heavy leaves. However, in order to meet with full success we must observe certain practical considerations.

PREPARATION OF SOIL.

The beds where summer flowers have been growing should now be cleared of rubbish, the soil deeply spaded and well pulverized. Deep tillage is essential, as the roots of bulbous plants strike straight downward, branching but little.

*Reprint of Bulletin No. 3, Wisconsin State Horticultural Society.

DRAINAGE.

The soil must be light in texture and well-drained, as the bulbs will decay if water settles about them. If the soil is a heavy clay it will be well to raise the beds a few inches to insure perfect drainage.

MANURE.

It is not essential that the soil should be very rich. It is more important that it be light and porous. Use only thoroughly decayed manure. Fresh manure will cause the bulbs to decay.

PLANTING.

Tulips, etc., are usually planted in "designs" or masses of contrasting colors. As the bulbs of the different varieties are all much alike in appearance great care is necessary in handling to avoid mixing. After the beds are prepared for planting and the design outlined the bulbs may all be set on the surface of the bed, placing all of one kind before commencing with another.

Make the holes for planting with the fingers. Cover lightly and after planting compact firmly the whole surface of the bed by walking over it. Do not push the bulbs into the soil without first making holes, for this leaves them on a bed of hard soil and the straight downward growing roots will tend to push the blubs to the surface.

WINTER PROTECTION.

The bulbs hero recommended for planting are all hardy in the sense of power to withstand cold, but all require a winter mulch to prevent alternate freezing and thawing. This is best put on after the ground is frozen and may consist of 3 to 6 inches of leaves or strawy manure. Field mice are very fond of bulbs and are apt to harbor in the mulching if it is put on before heavy frosts.

SPRING TREATMENT.

Uncover early in the spring as soon as their first leaf buds appear. Do not fear late spring frosts, as tulips, etc., suffer but little or not at all from freezing if the growth is made in the open. There is greater danger of injury by frost to the spindling growth resulting from delayed removal of the mulch.

SUMMER TREATMENT.

After flowering the tops turn yellow and die and the bulbs may be allowed to remain in the ground for a second and even a third year. Annuals and bedding plants may be planted without disturbing the bulbs. In case it is desired to remove them immediately after flowering dig carefully and “heel-in" or transplant closely in rows in the garden and leave until the tops die; then lift thebulbs, dry a day or two in the sun and store in a dry place until fall.

KINDS TO PIANT.

Tulips.

There are several classes (trade lists) of tulips, but the singie early sorts are most satisfactory for outdoor culture. The following kinds are of like period of flowering and of the same height, two important features in large beds:

Red-Crimson King, Artus, Belle Alliance.
Yellow Chrysola, Yellow Prince.

White-Pottebakker, Cottage Maid, La Reine.
Variegated-Keiserskroon.

The Duc. Van Thol class is somewhat earlier than the above, but with smaller flowers. These may be had in scarlet, rose, yellow, white and crimson.

The Parrot tulips have curiously shaped blossoms with fringed petals. These are odd but not adapted to massing.

The Darwin, Bybloems and Bizarres are single late kinds, growing 2 to 3 feet in height. More prized for cut flowers than for bedding. Very late and cannot be used where the beds are wanted for summer flowers.

All so far named are single. Double flowered sorts may be had in all the shades of red as well as yellow, white and variegated.

Plant tulip bulbs 3 to 5 inches deep (bottom of the bulb) and 4 to 6 inches apart.

Narcissus.

Of the different classes of narcissus the daffodil or trumpet narcissus is most satisfactory for out-door planting. The Trumpet Major, single, and Von Sion, double, are two satisfactory kinds; both rich golden yellow.

The Pheasant's Eye, white with yellow center, is also hardy. The Polyanth class, of which Paper White is a representativc, is not hardy out-doors in Wisconsin.