short walk brought us to the spot where some islanders had been cooking. By our native cook, no time was to be lost; a hole was made in the ground; fire was then produced by the friction of two hard pieces of wood; and every thing dry and combustible was collected around, of which a large fire was constructed, and ample preparations made to luau our pig-bread-fruit and bananas, as already described in our account of the Sandwich Islands. Here was no richly furnished table; but our savoury banquet was spread upon large plantain-leaves, on the verdant carpet of nature, beneath the green boughs of spreading cocoanut trees; the orange, citron, and lemon around, bending to the earth. with the weight of their rich golden fruits. In this rural spot, with none but the wild islanders for our guests, we enjoyed a most delicious repast. These natives had formerly the reputation of being great thieves; but at present evinced no disposition to reduce that pro pensity to practice. If this change have been brought about by the labours of the missionaries, they have done good in this, as in other things. At this part of the island there is a large church, of which Mr. Wilson is the pastor. The Sunday after our arrival, we attended Divine worship. There were about two hundred natives present, all of whom were well dressed; and during the sermon, which was delivered in the native language, many of them appeared attentive and devout. Their language is much more soft and harmonious than that spoken by the natives of the Sandwich Islands. The hymns sung by the females were quite harmonious; and some of them, in a low, soft, and subdued tone, might be called musical. There is a small town about nine miles distant from Matavia Bay; and the road leading to it is not less than forty feet wide, level, and well made. In fact, this road is the best specimen of internal improvement to be met with in any of these islands; it seems, indeed, almost out of keeping with the still rude simplicity of the natives. This town is the headquarters of the foreign missionaries. Here are undoubtedly the greatest improvements; but they seem small when measured by the long period they have been in making. The sugarcane and cotton grow well here, and might be cultivated to any extent. But when will these natural capacities of the island be called into action? When will the natives, of their own accord, become industrious? Tell us when the ocean will refuse its tribute of fish, and their rich groves no longer yield their tropical fruits—and we will answer. The water obtained at this place we deemed of better quality than any we had got during the whole cruise, and may be obtained with great facility. Refreshments of all kinds, common to the island, including good beef, were procured in abundance, and on the most reasonable terms. It has been said, and we have reason to believe with much truth, that the propensity of indulging to excess in the use of ardent spirits, when in their power, has greatly decreased within a few years past; while other vices, common to the condition of such people, are still practised. We had not the pleasure of seeing her royal highness, the queen, as she was absent with her retinue of attendants at another part of the island, and at such a distance, that our short stay would not allow of her return. The day before we sailed, however, we received a visit from the queen-dowager, or mother of Pomare, the present queen. She was accompanied by her nephew, a youth of about ten years of age, and king of some of the neighbouring islands. The queen-mother might be forty years of age; she was dressed in a striped blue silk frock, and wore a yellow shawl; and was, in fact, not a bad specimen of royalty. Her bonnet was of Otaheitan manufacture; but what shall we say of the other extremity? Instead of the small ankle, and little foot peeping out from beneath-there stood two naked feet, both of them fantastically tattooed. The little king wore a short bob-tailed coat, thickly covered with little bell-buttons, and pantaloons, which descended but a little below his knees! Accompanied by several of the missionaries, they dined on board the frigate; partaking of an entertainment given to them by the commodore. The attendants in this train of royalty were mostly dressed in native costume, presenting a striking contrast to the display made by the authorities at the Sandwich Islands. In fact, though considerable advancement has unquestionably been made in some respects; though churches have been established, schools kept up, and the ground partially cultivated—yet, when we consider the length of time permanent instructers have been located on the island, we cannot but feel that the harvest has not been in proportion to the labours of the husbandmen. There are many causes which must ever render their advancement in civilization slow, and of doubtful issue. In the first place, they are happy in their own shady groves, and delight in their wild and unrestrained mode of life. Their geographical position is unfavourable to much foreign intercourse' -an intercourse which, though strewing vices in its train, is nevertheless necessary to a people who would change from savage to civilized life. The island, however, is one of great interest; and the time may come, when it will enter largely into the concerns of the Pacific. On Wednesday, September nineteenth, we unmoored ship, and made ready for sea; and on the following day we bade farewell to Matavia Bay-its lofty hills and shady groves, with their spiritbewitching enchantments, and directed our course towards Valparaiso, at which port we arrived on the twenty-third of October, as stated in our introduction. CHAPTER XXIV. Valparaiso-Amicable deportment of the inhabitants-Interchange of civilities— Accumulated documents-Extent and importance of the Pacific station-Illegal detention of two American whale-ships-Defects in our consular system-Effects of the revolution-Other ports on the coast-The islands-Sail from Valparaiso —Arrive at Callao-Meet with the Falmouth and Dolphin-Description of the harbour-Visit Lima. THE Potomac having winged her way around the world (NewYork and Valparaiso being nearly on the same meridian*) had now arrived in safety on the station for which she had been originally selected by the navy department, as relief of the United States' ship Guerriere. The circumstances which led her to the east, and the services performed there, have already been detailed. For many months, her arrival on the station had been anxiously looked for by her officers and men, who were now delighted, refreshed, and invigorated, by the fine and healthy climate of Chili. A few days were now happily spent in recreation, and the interchange of civilities, not only with the citizens of Valparaiso, but also with a few agreeable families from our own country, settled in Chili for purposes of commerce. Time, however, admitted but of short respite. The interests of an extensive coast were to be looked after. Communications and official despatches, which had been accumulating for more than twelve months, in anticipation of the commodore's arrival, had now to be examined and answered; while new dispositions. were to be made of the other public vessels under his command. The Pacific station is an extensive one, the several ports being distant from each other. On doubling Cape Horn, and entering the Pacific Ocean from the South Atlantic, the first port of entry is Chiloe, in latitude 42° south. The second is Valdivia, one degree further north. The third is Conception, in latitude 37° The Potomac had more than circumnavigated the globe; as Valparaiso is one degree and forty-six minutes further east than New-York, and four degrees and forty-six minutes further east than Washington city, from whence she first started. |