plants are injured by too much heat; some hold that no artificial heat should be afforded, unless necessary to keep off the frost; but as we wish our camellias to bloom at a season when there is but little else to ornament the house, it is advisable to force them moderately.

A safe rule is, never to allow the temperature to fall below forty degrees at night, or rise above sixty-five or seventy degrees during the day. The plants will thus expand the flowers more slowly and naturally, and there will be no complaint of dropping buds, imperfect flowers, and yellow, sickly foliage. One prime mistake in floriculture is the little attention paid to uniformity of temperature ; a plant can no more preserve a healthy state when exposed to an atmosphere varying from thirty to one hundred degrees in a few hours, now dry and now surcharged. with moisture, than can an animal. The progress of disease may be more gradual, but it is sure to show itself, and, sooner or later, the death of the plant is the result. The plants, when in bloom, should be shaded, as thus the flowers remain in perfection much longer. Give the plants plenty of air at all times, but during the season of growth protect them from chilling draughts, which would cause the young leaves to curl and stunt the plant. During the

summer, the plants should be placed in a shady, airy situation, out of doors; allow room enough between the plants for free circulation of air; the practice of setting the plants in a mass, under trees, is most objectionable; in the first place, the drip from the branches overhead is injurious, and again, the pots become filled with earthworms, which are often difficult to dislodge.

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Another mistake in the culture of camellias is too frequently re-potting; while the plant should not be allowed to become pot-bound, too much room should not be afforded; a vigorous plant will not require re-potting oftener than every three years; on this point there is, however, some difference of opinion. It is a popular error that the wood of a camellia should not be cut; on the contrary, there is scarcely a hard-wooded plant that bears the knife better; the plant is by nature symmetrical in growth, and, by judicious pruning, perfect specimens may easily be obtained.

Pruning should be done after blooming, just as the plants begin their growth. Not more than one flower bud should be allowed on each terminal shoot, if size and perfection of flower are required; remove all others before the buds begin to swell; if delayed longer, little advantage is gained.

The florists' varieties of the camellia are too numerous to mention; the principal colors are red, white, and rose, with all the intermediate shades. The Chinese profess to possess a yellow variety, but we believe it has never been imported; we have seen a variety named "yellow," the flowers being semi-double, and of a dirty white color.

The following are all well-proved kinds, and may easily be procured of any nurseryman. In buying plants, select those of shrubby form, dark green foliage, without any places where leaves have been dropped; look well to see that the plant is free from scale, red spider, or mealy bug; if possible, examine the roots, to ascertain if they are in a healthy state.

White. Alba plena, Candidissima, Myrtifolia alba, Imbricata alba, Fimbriata, and Oleifera.

Rose, Rosy Pink, or Carmine. Saccoi, Henri Favre, Imbricata rubra, Marchioness of Exeter, Binneyii, Fultonii, Fordii, Floyii, Jeffersonii, Landrethii, Myrtifolia, Prattii, Wilderii..

Blush. Lady Hume's blush, Towne's blush, Pomponia.

White, striped with Red or Rose. Feastii, Eclipse, Duchess of Orleans, Mrs. Abby Wilder.

Red, striped or marked with White. Carswelliana, Chandleri, Donckelaarii, Queen Victoria, Elegans, Elphingstonia.

Crimson. Bealii, Elata, Eximia, Lowii, Palmer's perfection, Sarah Frost, Wardii.

For Seedlings. Waratah, or Anemoneflora, Tricolor, Donckelaarii, Simplex alba, Carnea.

Could we have but one camellia, we would choose Double white or Candidissima, for white; for blush, Lady Hume's blush; for crimson, Sarah Frost.

All these are peculiarly adapted for the window.

ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.

These are favorites for parlor culture, and easily grown.. Their treatment is almost identical with that required for the camellia: the same soil, the same temperature, and the same general treatment will produce success in the culture of both.

But they are by no means so clean plants as the camellia, being very subject to scale and mealy bug. The only remedy is constant washing, both of the stem and leaves, with a weak soap-suds warm, and applied with a soft cloth. Grown in large tubs they do well in a parlor if kept sufficiently cool, and in summer succeed well out of doors.

They are thirsty plants and require much water good drainage is essential. From December to March they will make but little growth; then water moderately. About the first of March growth begins, succeeded by bloom; then give more water. After the young growth becomes hardened, they may be set out of doors if the weather is favor

able. A violent wind disfigures the foliage. The young fruit will set in April and May, and will continue green all summer, coloring the next spring, and holding on the tree a long time. At the first approach of frost, the plants should be removed to their winter quarters. The lemon does not bloom and fruit as early as the orange, and is of taller growth and less fitted for the parlor: the blossoms are smaller and purplish outside.

The little dwarf "Otaheite orange

"Otaheite orange" is a very common

variety, and is always noticeable for its profusion of fruit. The flowers are not as fine as the other kinds, though plentifully produced. The fruit is sweet, but without flavor.

The Mandarin orange is one of the finest species (dwarf), and producing an abundance of fruit of the most exquisite flavor. Unfortunately it is not common.

There are many other larger growing species, all of which produce a profusion of white flowers, exquisitely fragrant. Among these, the myrtle leaved is conspicuous for its shining foliage, and the large shaddock for its enormous white flowers. The former is as symmetrical in its growth as the latter is tall and ungainly.

Oranges and lemons raised from seed must attain a large size before they will bloom. The better plan is to graft or