the flowers will compensate for any trouble. To prevent

drawing," that is, the growing of the plants towards the light, all geraniums should be frequently turned, which will give a well-proportioned plant. If the plants grow too tall, pinch out the top; all the axillary buds will then break into lateral branches. Again, if the side branches become too close, prune them out fearlessly. The geranium breaks easily, and you need never be afraid of killing the plant, even if you prune it down to a bare stump.

SOIL.

Pelargoniums and geraniums require a strong soil; that is, good sound loam, such as will grow melons. The top of a pasture will answer well. Let it be carted home and laid up in a long ridge, so as to expose as large a surface to the air as possible. Keep it clear of weeds, and let it be turned over every little while. To two parts of this loam, add one part of two-year-old cow dung, well turned over. Old hot-bed dung will do nearly, but not quite as well. Then add about one part of river sand and bits of charcoal, mixed. Let all these ingredients be kept in separate heaps. till wanted for potting, then mix them in the above proportions, and use them moderately dry. This compost should

be used to bloom and grow the plants in. For the winter season, use a small quantity of leaf mould instead of dung. Fresh soil is always to be preferred, for old soil is apt to become cloddy and sour.

POTTING.

All being ready, put the drainage in a suitable sized pot. Place first a suitable crock, or a large oyster shell over the hole; then lay a few large crocks upon that, and smaller upon those, so that the drainage may occupy about three fourths of an inch. Place a thin layer of moss upon the drainage, and upon that a sprinkling of soot or charcoal dust; after that a thin layer of the rougher parts of the compost, and finally a layer of soil. Then turn the plant out of the old pot, pick out the old drainage, and loosen part of the old roots, spreading them over the new soil as much as possible. Then see that the collar of the roots is just below the rim of the pot, and fill in around the ball with the fresh soil, pressing it down gently as it is put in. When the pot is full, give it a smart stroke or two upon the bench to settle the soil; level it neatly, leaving it about half an inch below the rim of the pot. This finishes the potting. Then give a good watering of tepid water.

For four or five weeks, while new roots are running into the fresh soil, they will not need a large supply of water; but when the roots reach the sides of the pots, and the leaves and shoots are advancing in growth, then water will be required in abundance.

They should never be allowed to flag.

After a hot, sunny day, let the plants, in addition to the water at the roots, have a gentle syringing.

cretion, however, on this point.

Exercise dis

The geranium is a spring and summer blooming plant. It is very difficult to obtain a flower from December to April; therefore, during the winter it should be kept cool, and moderately dry.

About the first of February re-pot the plants, give more heat, sun, and water, and your plants will bloom profusely in May.

The varieties grown only for their leaves may have more generous culture during the winter months.

VARIETIES.

Ivy-leaved geranium (P. lateripes), is a pretty trailing species, with ivy-shaped leaves and purple flowers in the There is also a variety with white flowers. It is

summer.

a pretty window plant, and always does well. It needs plenty of light, sun, and generous culture.

The varieties of horse-shoe geraniums (P. zonale hybrids), are all good window flowers, and will often bloom in winter. The following are the best old varieties :

Scarlet. Dazzle, Tom Thumb, Defiance.
Cerise. Cerise unique.

Pink. Rosa mundi.

White. Boule de Neige, Lady Turner.

Variegated Leaved. Flower of the Day, Golden Chain, Alma, Bijou.

These latter varieties need a green-house to develop the rich colors of the foliage, yet they do well as bedding plants in the summer.

P. graveolens is the common rose geranium.

THE VERBENA.

There are few plants which lend more beauty to the flower garden in summer, or enliven the green-house in the winter and early spring months in a greater degree, than the verbena. From the variety of colors, the rapidity of propagation, the little care needed to bloom the plant in perfection, and the abundance of blossoms, it is, and always must remain, a universal favorite.

In addition to these advantages, the facility with which new varieties are raised from seed, render it a favorite with the amateur; and in no collection do we fail to find the verbena, in some of its many varieties.

It is a difficult task to prescribe the culture of a plant so well known, and which will grow and flourish under such a variety of circumstances, and in such different situations. As every one has grown verbenas, each has his own peculiar mode of treatment, if, indeed, a flower requiring so little care can be said to have peculiar treatment.

In writing of a plant, from which seedlings are produced with such ease, and which sports into such an infinite variety of colors and shades, we cannot be too careful in expressing a decided opinion. Every year new seedlings are "brought out," and latterly the varieties have so multiplied that it is very difficult to choose those really worthy of cultivation: the favorite of this spring may, after a year's trial, be cast aside as worthless, for it may not be found worthy of general cultivation, or better varieties may have been originated.

Our verbena was introduced into England from Buenos Ayres, where it is indigenous, by Mr. Hugh Cumming, an ardent lover of nature, about the year 1825.