28

WALKS ON THE SHORE.

possible direction. She wore a tight jacket and loose skirt, and one corner of the dark handkerchief which enveloped her head hung down her back, with six heavy silver whistles suspended from it. A crescent of gold in her nose, bracelets and rings on her wrists and fingers, and some coins suspended from her forehead, completed her ornaments. The little hamlet was not one of the common villages of the Nile where women cover their faces.

I entered several of the huts, and found them all without furniture. Loose straw was thrown over the mud floors. The inmates seemed hospitable enough, and gave me to know by signs that I might make myself at home; but being satisfied of the character of the village from what we had scen, we deemed it safest not to cultivate any farther acquaintance with the inhabitants: so our crew was ordered on board, and before the lights were put out we moved up the river a short distance, in order to be out of harm's way. But George reported us minus several little articles next morning.

Either exposure on the passage from Syra to Alexandria, or over-exertion in the latter city, or the change of climate and water, produced symptoms of dysentery for a day or two. I avoided the water, drank some brandy punch, kept quiet, and was quickly able to go ashore and take a delightful morning's walk, while our boat was working up the stream. The air was mild and genial as May in the Middle States; the herdsmen were bathing, or, rather, like crocodiles, floundering about in the ponds of water left in low places, or in ancient canals or cisterns, and warmed by the sun; or were mending their loose garments as they sat naked on the grass, casting a glance now and then at their herds grazing near by.

THE MURRAIN OF CATTLE.

29

We had heard of a dreadful mortality prevailing among the cattle in Egypt, and had ocular proof of it on our way up the river. It was said that more than 150,000 had died; and the Pacha interdicted the killing or selling of any for four years, as cultivation is carried on chiefly by means of oxen. The murrain continued; the bodies were dragged down to the river, the skins taken off, and the carcasses thrown into the water. Of course, we had no beef in Egypt just then; but I was surprised to find excellent mutton in this level, warm country. Poultry and eggs were abundant and cheap, but both very small and not very good. Bread is excellent in Alexandria, where we obtained a supply: the milk is too strong, but as our supply gave out, George, our Greek, beat up the yolk of eggs with a little warm water, and made most excellent cream. It is a good substitute.

Near noon on the day before we reached Cairo, we were walking on one of the raised dikes which intersect the cultivated fields, retain the water, and serve as roads communicating with the principal villages, when we descried in the distance the clear, sharp summits of two of the Pyramids. The sentiment which I felt was profound and indescribable: the greatness of Memphis, the sanctity and science of Heliopolis, the glorious captivity of Joseph, the grievous bondage of Israel, the terrible triumph of Moses and Aaron, and the miraculous Exodus of the Jews, flashed through my mind as I gazed upon those eternal monuments which have witnessed them all. Next morning, about 10 o'clock, the fog cleared up from the river, and the town of Boulak the port of Cairo, appeared near at hand on the easterr bank, and the slender minarets and swelling domes of the capital were seen, two miles distant, in the back

ground. There was some activity in boat-building along the shore; and two or three small steamers sailed up to the levee in company with us. We took our station among the hundreds of little river craft drawn up along the steep mud levee, covered with rubbish and filth up to the very walls of the dingy houses, built of sun-driedmud brick. Everywhere were seen groups of donkeys saddled, or camels bearing towering loads, or lying down receiving their burdens; men, women, and boys, of all colours and costumes, and uttering all languages: some basking in the sun, some smoking long pipes or drinking black coffee, some looking on with indifference, and others leisurely transacting business. None seemed to be in earnest except the donkey-drivers and camel-men, who wanted us and our luggage. George went ashore to engage camels and donkeys to carry us to the city, while we remained on board to guard our boat from the filthy Arabs.

The

Boulak is about a mile and a half from the capital. The road, which is raised, and bordered with trees, passes through cultivated grounds adorned with groves of palms and oranges, interspersed with cactus. thoroughfare was thronged with donkeys carrying water to the city, and returning with the empty goatskins. Entering the Frank Quarter, we soon reached the French hotel de l'Orient, and found comfortable rooms at our disposal.

A Fête.-Strange Festivities.-Mr. Gliddon.-Walk through the City.-The Quarters. Streets and Houses.-Courts.-Costumes.-Dresses of Ladies. -Of Woinen of the Lower Orders.-Appearance of the People.-Ophthalmia. The Citadel.-Palace.-The Mint.-Joseph's Well.-Massacre of the Mamelukes.-Mosque of the Hasaneyn.-Cemeteries.-The Pacha's Tomb.-The Mission-house.

BEING informed, after dinner, that it was a fête day, and that half the city were collected outside the eastern gate, near the tombs of the Mamelukes, indulging in feast and frolic, we determined to go out at once and behold the festivity. Donkeys were at hand, and we were soon at the spot. Pushing through the crowd as though we had been on foot, the noses of our stubborn steeds acting as wedges to open the way for us, we had the better opportunity of seeing, from our elevation above the crowd. One disadvantage was connected with it, however-we were an excellent mark for beggars, and they gathered about us in troops. Buffoons, mountebanks, jugglers, and swingers were performing all kinds of fantastic tricks; and the multitude were gathered in groups around the various performers. There were many dancers (men) in loose trousers, with full skirts hanging freely over them, and the whole body covered with a thin gauze. Water, fruits, and a thousand compositions of food, apparently unfit to be eaten, were offered for sale everywhere. The crowds were not noisy; there seemed to be little glee in their enjoyment. One of the most attractive performers was a dark Arab, of Herculean frame, who exhibited many feats of strength. We saw him take up a full-grown

32

A STRANGE SCENE.-MR. GLIDDON.

man on each arm, and whirl them round and round as though they were children. Take the whole affair together, it was one of the most extraordinary scenes I ever beheld. A countless multitude in high festivity, not in a grove or garden, or even a fair green field, but in the midst of a desert, made still more desolate by the vast necropolis that surrounded it—hills of rubbish, the mouldered ruins of a former city, made hideous by the bleached bones and half-consumed carcasses of donkeys and camels, from which the dogs and carrion-birds were hardly frighted by the music and dancing; and all this immediately under the walls of a great city!

On our way home, we called on our consul, Mr. Gliddon, but did not find him. A few hours after, his son called, with an invitation to breakfast next morning. I take pleasure in recording Mr. G.'s constant attention to us during our stay in Cairo.* He showed us the kindness, usual to strangers, of placing a janizary at our command to accompany us in our rambles. After breakfast we set off for a tour over the city, desiring, in the first place, to get a general idea of the town.

After the usual struggle among the donkey-drivers, we secured good beasts, and made quite a cavalcade, with our pompous janizary leading the way. He was evidently a man of much importance, in his own eyes at least, and quite a dandy, wearing a red cap with heavy tassel, a close blue jacket thickly braided, full pantaloons, and tight gaiters of the same material, and a long sword dangling at his left side. He carried a long, silver-headed mace in his right hand, which he turned to more uses than one. The crowds of pedestrians seemed to be in

dread of it.

We passed through the most crowded thoroughfares * I regret to learn that Mr. G. is since deceased.