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one on either side the channel. There is also the Westmoreland Fort, on Spike's Island, which contains a convict prison; the inmates, numbering nearly one thousand, are kept continually at work on the forts. An order from the governor is required by travelers wishing to visit the island. Rocky Island contains the gunpowder, ten thousand barrels of which are kept in chambers excavated out of the solid rock. An order from the commandant of ordnance is required to visit this island. Hawlbowline Island contains a tank capable of holding five thousand tuns of fresh water. No order necessary here. The harbor of Cork is noted principally for its beautiful scenery, and the town is becoming quite important as a watering-place on account of the salubrity and equality of the climate. The harbor is also celebrated for the number of regattas which take place annually. The splendid Inman line of steamers are arriving and departing four times a week for New York. To the west of the town there is a beautiful promenade formed from a substantial quay erected in 1848. It was into this harbor that Admiral Drake, of the British navy, retreated when chased by the Spaniards; then into "Drake's Pool," up a creek called Crosshaven, where he was so effectually hidden that the Spaniards, after several days' search, gave him up in despair, thinking he must have reached the Channel again by magic.

Steamers leave Queenstown several times per day for Cork. Although the scenery is very beautiful on the river, we advise taking the cars, which leave nearly every hour for Cork.

Steamers sail three times a day to Aghada and Cloyne, where travelers who have time to spare can visit the Castle of Rostellan, the former residence of the princely O'Briens, marquesses of Thomond. In the modern residence, which is beautifully situated at the eastern end of the harbor, is kept the ancient sword of the famous Brian Boroihme, who was an ancestor of the O'Briens. The grounds are very beautiful, and visitors are freely admitted. A visit should be made to Castle Mary, the residence of Mr. Longfield, where may be seen one of those Druidical remains peculiar to Ireland, and known as "Cromlechs," supposed by some to have been used as sepulchral monuments, and by others

for sacrificial purposes. There are two cromlechs on this estate: the larger one is a stone fifteen feet long, eight broad, and three thick, one end resting on the ground and the other supported by two upright stones; the smaller one is of a triangular shape, and of the same inclination. It is supposed the inclined position was given that the blood of the victims slain upon them might run off freely. There are some to be seen in Wales, and, as in Ireland, they are generally seen near the sea.

CLOYNE, about one mile from Castle Mary, is noted for its ancient cathedral of the 14th century, and its round tower, one of the antiquities of Ireland, which was used for the double purpose of a belfry and for safety and defense. The height of this tower is one hundred feet, but the embattlements, which are ten feet high, are modern.

Cork is a city of ancient origin, dating back to the ninth century, when the Danes invaded and held possession of it up to the twelfth century, when it was again invaded by the English under Henry II. It was then under the rule of Dermot M'Carthy, prince of Desmond. For several centuries the invaders' were greatly harassed by the neighboring chiefs, who, in their turn, retaliated on the surrounding country. During the wars of the Protectorate, 1649, Cork took the side of the ill-fated Charles, but it was surprised and captured, and the cruelties which Cromwell perpetrated upon the poor citizens are almost unparalleled in the annals of warfare. was again besieged for five days by Marl borough in the reign of William III.

It

Cork contains at the present time about 80,000 inhabitants, two thousand less than in 1851, and the same as in 1841, showing no increase in twenty years. The principal hotel, and the best in the south of Ireland, is the Imperial, finely conducted by Mr. Chas. Cotton. Attached to the house are the City Reading-rooms, to which visitors at the hotel are freely admitted. The city is situated on both banks of the River Lee, which is crossed by nine bridges, all of modern construction and elegant architecture. The principal streets and suburbs are well paved and lighted, but the back and narrow streets are generally in a poor condition. It was formerly the second city in size and commerce, but Belfast

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140 acres, would, in a great measure, be supplied with one by its contiguity to the Groves of Blarney, and its lovely surroundings. The citizens also have a very beautiful walk bordering the river, called the Mardyke, which is about one mile long, and shaded by fine elm-trees, which form a beautiful arch overhead; when lighted at night, it presents a very charming appearance. It was in Cork that William Penn became a convert to Quakerism. He was visiting the city on business relating to his father's property when he was converted. Cork must ever be a place of great resort to travelers, if only for its contiguity to Blarney Castle and the "Groves of Blarney," which are situated some six miles from the city. There are two roads by which to reach the castle in addition to the railway; but as the last sets you down over a mile from the castle, we would advise taking a carriage or car from the Imperial Hotel, and drive by the Sunday's Well Road and Blarney Lane, which winds nearly all the way along the banks of the lovely silver Lee, embracing exquisite views of Queen's College, the beautiful grounds of Blackrock, and richly-clothed heights of Glenmire. Do not allow your driver to return by the short and much less pleasing route of Blackpool and the northern suburbs, unless you have an affinity for tanyards and other nuisances. The noted castle of Blarney was long the residence of the younger branch of the royal race of M'Carthy, by whom it was erected in the 15th century. The ruins consist of a dungeon 120 feet high, with other lower remains less massive, but still so strong as to have rendered it impregnable before the introduction of gunpowder. Do not fail to descend to the basement on the outside, not only to examine the curious caves and natural excavations made in its rocky foundation, but to obtain a proper idea of its original size and strength; nearly the whole mass is charmingly covered with ivy. On the river side the guide will point out the place where its defenders poured down the molten lead on the heads of Cromwell's followers. The great reputation, however, that Blarney Castle has acquired through

now takes that place. There are no manufactures of importance in Cork, but its breweries, distilleries, tanneries, and founderies do a large business, while its export to England of corn, provisions, and livestock is considerable. A large business in the butter-trade is also carried on. The principal public buildings of Cork are the small cathedral church of St. Finbar, which is unworthy the reputation of Cork, with the exception of the tower, which is ancient. It was built in 1735. It is, how ever, soon to be replaced by a new cathedral. Near it are the bishop's palace, and cemetery. At the western end of the Grand Parade is the court-house, which is much admired for its graceful appearance. The Church of St. Anne is remarkable for its magnificent position, commanding as it does a fine view of the whole city. Its bells are one of the "lions" of the city. Its appearance is very picturesque and very droll, one side built of different colored stone from the other. It is built in stories. James II. heard mass here during his residence in Cork. On the northern side of the river there is a very beautiful Presbyterian church. The Church of the Holy Trinity is a handsome Gothic building, interesting from the fact that it was founded by Father Mathew, the temperance apostle, whose visit to the United States many of our travelers must remember, and whom all must revere, not only for the good he has done in his native country, but also in our own. (We have noticed in traveling through Ireland that the most careful drivers, and those in whom their employers have the greatest confidence, are disciples of Father Mathew, and have drank neither ale nor spirits for twenty years.) The church contains a finely-stained glass window, as a memorial to Daniel O'Connell. A fine monument has recently been erected to Father Mathew in St. Patrick Street. The interior of the Roman Catholic church of St. Mary's is very beautiful. There is also a church built in honor of St. Patrick. The City Jail and County Prison are both very fine buildings, the former built of limestone and the latter of red sandstone. On the southern side of the Lee, on a fine, elevated position, is situated the beautiful build-out the world has been through the "Blaring built for Queen's College-seen to an advantage on the way to visit Blarney Castle. Cork, if it had not its Victoria Park of

ney Stone," which is said to endow the person who kisses it with such persuasive eloquence, such an irresistible wheedling

tongue, that no lady can resist him; hence | shilling; sixpence to the woman at the

the song:

"There is a stone there,

That, whoever kisses,
Oh, he never misses
To grow eloquent.
'Tis he may clamber
To a lady's chamber,
Or become a member
Of Parliament.
A clever pouter
He'll sure turn out, or
An out and outer

To be let alone!
Don't hope to hinder him,
Sure he's a pilgrim

From the Blarney Stone."
This stone is situated at the northern an-
gle, 20 feet below the summit, and bears
the following inscription: "Cormach Mac-
Carthy fortis mi fiori fecit, 1446;" but, for
the accommodation of travelers, as this
stone is mostly inaccessible, there is anoth-
er kept on the floor of the first apartment
you enter, which you will be assured has
the same virtue as the other: we think, in
this one respect, the guide may be implicit-
ly believed! It is very difficult to tell
whence came the reputation of this stone,
but in former ages the peasantry firmly
believed in its virtue, and the word "Blar-
ney" has become of world-wide celebrity.
The "Groves of Blarney," which adjoin
the castle, are still very beautiful. It is
said they were formerly adorned with stat-
ues, grottoes, fountains, and bridges; al-
though these have disappeared, we still

have the

"Gravel-walks there
For speculation
And conversation."

lodge, and a shilling to your outside guide, will be necessary.

A short distance from the castle lies the lovely little lake of Blarney, to which is attached another tradition. 'Tis said that M'Carthy, earl of Clancarty, whose possessions were confiscated during the Revolution, threw all his family plate into the lake at a certain spot; that the secret is never known but to three of his descendants at a time; that before one dies he communicates it to another of the family. The secret is to be religiously kept until one of the descendants again becomes possessed of the property. 'Tis also said that herds of beautiful white cows rise at certain seasons from the bottom of the lake to graze on the bordering pastures! Blarney Castle is the property of Sir G. Colthurst, M.P., and is freely opened to the public.

About two miles from the castle is the celebrated hydropathic establishment of Dr. Barter.

Since the opening of the railroad between Cork and Youghal, a distance of 28 miles, many tourists ascend the beautiful Blackwater River, not only for the purpose of angling, but for enjoying scenery not surpassed for loveliness in the United Kingdom. The river is noted for its abundance of salmon, trout, and perch. This excursion can be made very easily in one day. By taking the first train from Cork, you have one or two hours to spend in Youghal; then take the steamer to Cappoquin, which is as far as the Blackwater is navigable, returning by the down steam

Croker, in his "Songs of Ireland," wrote er in time for the last train to Cork. The

of them thus:

"The groves of Blarney,

They look so charming

Down by the purling

Of sweet, silent streams,
Being banked with posies
That spontaneous grow there,
Planted in order

By the sweet rock close.

"'Tis there the daisy,
And the sweet carnation,

The blooming pink,

And the rose so fair;

The daffodowndilly,
Likewise the lily-
All flowers that scent
The sweet, fragrant air."

The old woman who has charge of the castle, and the old man who unlocks the beauties of the "Groves," each expect a

situation of Youghal is exceedingly beautiful. The house in which Sir Walter Raleigh lived when he was chief magistrate of this town, in 1588, and where he entertained Spenser while that poet was preparing his Faërie Queene for publication, has been but recently torn down. A luxurious growth of arbutus plants, as well as bays and myrtles, ornament the garden; here also was the first potato planted in Ireland by Sir Walter, and here, for the first time, the air of Hibernia was scented by the fragrant weed of our own Virginia. During the reign of Elizabeth, a large portion of the surrounding territory was granted to Sir Walter, who disposed of it to Mr. Boyle, author and philosopher, in 1602.

From this Boyle, who was created Earl of | Inniscarra, Dripsey, Carrigadrohid, the Cork, was descended the lady who mar- beautiful lakes of Inchigeela, Gougaun Barried the fourth Duke of Devonshire, and ra, the celebrated pass of Keimaneigh, who inherited all the estates, so that the Carriganass Castle, winding round the head present owner of Chatsworth, the most of Bantry Bay, and arriving at Glengariffe beautiful residence in England, is also the at six o'clock P.M., leaving Glengariffe owner of this delightful district. the next morning, and arriving in Killarney the same evening. Tourists by this route will have the opportunity of seeing the scenery in and about Glengariffe.

After leaving Youghal and passing the immense timber bridge (over seventeen hundred feet long), we see to the left, on the summit, the ruins of Rhincrew Abbey, founded by Raymond le Gros. It was once a preceptory of Templars. The view from this summit is delightful. Farther on we notice the ruins of Temple Michael Castle. We next pass the beautiful modern residence of Mr. C. Smyth; the grounds contain the remains of the Abbey of Molano, founded in the 6th century: they contain the remains of Raymond le Gros, the companion of Strongbow. After passing the village of Villierston, we arrive at Dromana, the seat of Lord de Decies. Behind the modern mansion are the remains of a fine old castle, formerly one of the residences of the powerful Demonds. Here the cherry-tree was first introduced from the Canary Isles by Sir Walter Raleigh, and the death of the famous Countess of Demond, who presented a petition at the English court to James I. at the age of 140, was occasioned by a fall from a branch of one of these trees (?). (Rather a juvenile amusement for an old lady of 140 climbing cherry-trees; but the story is in print, and must be believed.)

The village of Cappoquin, at the head of navigation, is most delightfully situated, and a few days might well be spent (at Powers's Hotel), if the traveler has plenty of leisure. Four miles from the town is the Trappist's Convent of Melleray, an order of Mount St. Bernard. The building, although a plain one exteriorly, contains a fine chapel, with a beautiful stained-glass window.

The distance to Lismore is only four miles, passing through a delightful country. You can proceed up the river by small boats, or take a car to Fermoy, a distance of twelve miles, and return by rail to Mallow and Cork.

There are several modes of proceeding to Killarney: first, the direct route by rail to Mallow, in three hours; or by the more picturesque route of Carrigrohane Castle,

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There is a third route which, should the traveler prefer, or should he have performed the second one, he might take, viz., through Bandon and Dunmanway to Bantry, thence the same as the preceding route.

The railroad from Cork to Skibbereen is nearly completed. (It is this year [1866] finished to Dunmanway.) Thence we proceed by carriage to Bantry and Killarney.

A short distance from Cork, on the Bandon road, there is a junction, whence a road diverges from the main line to Kinsale (Railway Hotel, new and very good). This town has a very fine appearance, and is beautifully situated at the mouth of the Bandon River. It is a place of considerable historic importance, being one of the oldest towns in Ireland. It was one of the first places that declared in favor of Cromwell, and was the scene of several important engagements. It was held for some time by the Spaniards in the beginning of the 17th century. The light-house, which is nearly three hundred feet high, is one of the first objects our countrymen see on arriving at Queenstown.

The town of Bandon (Devonshire Arms) is one of the most important in the south of Ireland. Its distilleries and breweries are of considerable magnitude. Its environs are decidedly beautiful. To the west of the town is situated the castle and grounds of the Earl of Bandon. The gardens and conservatories are freely shown to the public. The Bandon River is noted for its trout and salmon fishing.

There is nothing of importance to see at Dunmanway, and the road thence to Bantry is rather dreary.

We would advise the traveler to take the route via Macroon, Inchigeela, Bantry, Glengariffe, and Kenmare, if not going by rail direct. The railway is open from Cork to Macroon, and coaches run during the summer season. Four miles from Cork we pass the Castle of Carrigrohane, former

ly a strong-hold of the M'Carthys, situ- | After passing through the wild and gloomy ated in a most delightful spot. Farther pass of Keimancigh, the town of Bantry on we pass the ruined church of Inniscarra, appears below. Bantry Arms and Vickary's which is situated at the confluence of the Hotel the best. From Bantry one can proRivers Lee and Bride. At Carrigadrohid, ceed to Glengariffe either by land or wawhere we cross the River Lee by a bridge ter; but, although the wild scenery of the built by Cromwell, notice the picturesque bay is very beautiful, we would advise concastle built on a rock in the middle of tinuing by car, as the most beautiful part the river. It was erected by a M'Car- of this route commences at Bantry. The thy, and was besieged by the English in seat of the Earl of Bantry is very beautithe middle of the 17th century. The En- ful, and may be visited if you have time: glish governor captured the Bishop of Ross, also Cromwell's Bridge, a rather interestbut promised him his liberty if he would ing ruin. The Protector erected this bridge prevail on the garrison of the castle to sur- when in pursuit of the O'Sullivans. render, instead of which, when brought be- er passing through the mountain glen of fore the castle, he besought them to pro- Glengariffe, noted for its wild and rugged long the struggle, for which he was hung beauty, we arrive at Kenmare, distance on the spot by the English. sixteen miles. Principal hotel Lansdowne Arms. The town is entered by a beautiful suspension bridge 470 feet in length. The town, which is quite small but neat, is the property of the Marquis of Lansdowne. From Kenmare the country increases in grandeur, until we arrive in view of the fairy landscape of Killarney.

Seven miles more we pass the ruins of Mashanaglass Castle, erected by Owen M'Leviney, and one mile more to Macroon, the terminus of the railway. The Queen's Hotel is the best. The town is prettily situated in the valley of Sallune. Its only object of attraction is its castle, which must be highly interesting to all Pennsylvanians as being the birthplace of Admiral Penn, father of William Penn, who was born inside its walls. It was erected in the reign of King John, and was destroyed several times in the 17th century. The distance from Macroon to Killarney by Kenmare direct is fifty miles, and to Bantry by Inchigeela thirty-four. Before arriving at the lakes of Inchigeela, we pass, on our left, the Castle Masters, one of the strong-holds of the O'Learys. The lakes of Inchigeela are formed by the expansion of the River Lee, and present a panorama of most lovely scenery. On an island in one of these lakes is a ruin called the Hermitage of St. Finnbar, where there is a holy well, which in former times was held in high reverence by the inhabitants, and was a place of pilgrimage for the peasantry, who believed its waters were a sure cure for all the ills that flesh is heir to. The tradition is thus: St. Patrick, after banishing the reptiles out of the country, overlooked one hideous monster, a winged dragon, which desolated the adjacent country, and power was conferred on St. Finnbar to drown the monster in the lake, on condition of erecting a church where the waters of the lake met the tide, which accounts for the present cathedral of Cork.

Aft

The lakes of Killarney are, without exception, the most beautiful in the United Kingdom. The principal hotel, and one of the best in Ireland, is the Royal Victoria, beautifully situated on the principal lake, and commanding a view of the whole. It is admirably conducted by Mr. O'Leary, contains an elegant salle à manger, and is lighted with gas manufactured on the premises.

In starting to make a tour of the lakes of Killarney, although a guide may not be necessary, it will be better to take one in self-defense, else you will be pestered to death. Indeed, if your time be limited to one or two days, considerably more can be done with the help of a good guide; so apply to Mr. O'Leary, of the Victoria Hotel, to supply one at once, with the understanding that all beggars, pests, and other hangers-on are to be kept at a distance, as in time they get to be an intolerable nuisance, and insist on tendering you their services.

If the traveler have but a single day to spare to "do" the lakes, he must leave his hotel early in the morning, sending first a horse ahead to ride through the Gap of Dunloe, also a boat to meet him at the end of the upper lake. There is a regular tariff both for carriage, horse, and boat; the boatmen expect about one shilling each in

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