blooming as thine own rose-bud, and fra- | have but one paradise, and my paradise is grant as thine own orange-flower, O Da- fixed above." The famous Abd el Kader mascus, pearl of the East!" The "sights" resides in Damascus, so well known from of Damascus are few. The principal are his wars in Algeria, and also from his kind the great mosque, with its three minarets, rescue of so many Christians during the to which access may be obtained by apply-massacre of 1860. ing to the American consul. This build From Damascus to Baalbec, distance 15 hours, or two days, resting the first night at Zebdany, which is a little over half way. Four hours after leaving Damascus we pass the Fountain of Fijeh, which is one of the finest in Syria, and the principal source of the River Barada. In about five hours we pass the village of Suk Wady Barada, the ancient Abila, where Lysanias was murdered through the instrumentality of Cleopatra. The village of Zebdaný contains 3500 inhabitants, and is beautifully situated in the Vale of Barada, surrounded by groves of olive, almond, and walnut trees, with the mountains of anti-Lebanon rising in its rear to the height of 7000 feet. Situated 1000 feet above Zebdany is the picturesque village of Bludan, the summer residence of the aristocracy of this section of the country. ing occupies the site of an ancient temple, which was surrounded by beautiful colonnades, some of which may be seen in the court of the mosque, while others are surrounded by modern buildings, and may be seen from the shoemakers' and jewelers' bazars. The time when this temple was transformed into a Christian church is not known. When taken by the Saracens, the edifice was equally divided between Moslems and Christians; but in 705, under Khalif Walid, the former took complete possession. The present mosque consists of a large rectangular court, on the southern side of which is the mosque itself. This is divided into three naves, supported by Corinthian columns. The pavement is of marble, covered with mats and carpets; the walls are also of marble, but in some places the ancient mosaic still remains, Baalbec.-Owing to the discovery of representing palm-trees and palaces. Near Jewish architecture amid the Doric, Tusthe transept rises a pretty cupola, in carved can, and Corinthian ruins of Baalbec, it is wood, built over a cave which is said to by many considered the house of the forcontain the head of John the Baptist in a est of Lebanon which Solomon built for gold casket. Behind an iron grating in his Egyptian wife; and as his successors the wall the ankles of Mohammed are also were altogether idolatrous, it is not unreapointed out. The three minarets of the sonable to suppose that this favorite dwellmosque are called the Madinet el-Arûs, ing was consecrated to the worship of Baal, "the Minaret of the Bride;" the Mâdinet or the Sun; Baalbec of the Syrians meanIsa, "the Minaret of Jesus;" and the Mâ- ing the same as Heliopolis of the Greeks, dinet el-Gharbiyeh, "the Western Minaret." viz., City of the Sun. Although we do The view to be obtained from them is most not know the origin of these mighty ruins, beautiful. The length of the entire build- we do know the city passed successively ing is 500 feet, and the width 300. The beneath the rule of the Persians, Greeks, Castle, which is 800 feet long by 600 wide, is and Romans, and was plundered by the surrounded by a moat, and looks very for- Arabs in A.D. 639; suffered under various midable from the outside, but within is a assailants during the Crusades, and was complete wreck. There, in the "street sacked and dismantled by the Tartars uncalled Strait," we have the house of An- der Tamerlane. anias, where Paul lodged; also the scene where Paul was let down from the wall in a basket. This last is near the Christian cemetery. On the opposite side of the town is the traditional scene of Paul's conversion. One of the most sublime views is Damascus from the heights of Salihneh. Here, it is said, Mohammed, when a camel-driver, first came in sight of Damascus, and refused to enter, saying, "Man can "Where Lebanon in glory rears But yet we know that thou wert great up, thou queen "But say, who built thee Did Solomon the Great? Did Sheba's lovely mistress lean On yonder parapet, And listen to the tinkling sound Of Judah's daughters dancing round? "The Saracenic prophets taught, Amid their caverned halls, That Solomon designed the plan, "And fresh as from the sculptor's hand, The carving now appears; The leaves of the acanthus stands The test of countless years; In grand Corinthian order they First catch the morning's purple ray. "Three eras speak thy ruined piles, The first in doubt concealed; The second, when, amid thy files, The Roman clarion pealed; The third, when Saracenic powers Raised high the caliph's massy towers. "But, ah! thy walls, thy giant walls, Who laid them in the sand? Belief turns pale, and fancy falls And well might heathen seers declare "No, not in Egypt's ruined land, Nor 'mid the Grecian isles, Tower monuments so vast, so grand, So searched the Romans and the Turks, Phoenicians reared thy pillars tall, ? Mr. Prime says, "If all the ruins of ancient Rome that are in and around the modern city were gathered together in one group, they would not equal in extent the ruins of Baalbec;" and notwithstanding the space covered with these ruins is only 900 feet long by 500 feet wide, Mr. Prime is not far astray. The magnificence and magnitude of the columns, and the Cyclopean masonry, has for centuries been the wonder of the world, and no description that we can possibly give will approach the reality. The temples of Baalbec stood upon an artificial platform, raised above the plain 30 feet, having immense vaults underneath. The style of this foundation is very similar to that of the foundation of Solomon's Temple at Jerusalem, the stones being beveled, but of a much larger size. Three of the stones in this foundation wall are each 63 feet long, by 15 wide and 13 deep, raised to a height of 20 feet. Outside of this platform, on the southwest corner, there is a wall where many of the stones measure 30 feet long, by 15 wide and 13 deep. On the platform stood three temples, the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of Jupiter, and the Circular Temple. The Temple of the Sun, or Great Temple, was 290 feet long by 160 broad, surrounded by Corinthian columns 75 feet high, and 7 feet 3 inches in diameter at the base. The stones of the entablature, which reached from column to column, were 15 feet high by 15 long, making the total height at the top of the entablature 90 feet. The stones forming the entablature were fastened together by wrought-iron clamps inserted in the ends, one foot thick. Six only of these immense columns now remain standing. The Temple of Jupiter stands on a platform of its own, some 10 feet lower than that of the Great Temple, and is the most perfect ruin in Syria. Its dimensions on the outside are 230 feet by 120 feet. Our space will not permit us to give a detailed description of this most magnificent of tem ples; you must visit, explore, and study for yourself. "Even with arch destroyed, column overthrown, pilaster broken, and capital defaced, so vast at once and so exquisitely beautiful in design and sculpture are the ruins which here surround the traveler, that we scarcely wonder at the fond superstition which leads the nations to aver, and stoutly to maintain, that masses so mighty were never transported and upreared by human hands, but that the once magnificent but now ruined Baalbec was built by the Genii, reluctantly, yet irresistibly coerced to their Titanic labors by the mighty power of the seal of the wise son of David." About three fourths of a mile west of the ruins is the quarry whence the larger stones in the wall were taken. One still remains here, hewn all round and underneath, with the exception of about one foot, which still retains it in its native bed. Its dimensions are 69 feet long, by 17 wide and 14 deep. The present village of Baalbec is a miserable place, containing about 500 inhabitants. From Baalbec to Beyrout, time 16 hours, or two days, stopping at the village of Zah- | driving out the troops of Ibraham Pacha, leh; eight hours from the ruins, riding the who had overrun all Syria, and even threatwhole time over a beautiful and fertile ened the sultan on his throne. plain admirably adapted to the growth of cotton. ས་ Should the traveler find it impossible to land at Jaffa, coming from Egypt, or should he land first at Beyrout, and wish to make the double tour of Syria and Palestine, that is, going up the shore via Sidon, Tyre, Acre, Mount Carmel, Cæsarea, and Jaffa, and returning to Beyrout, as described in the previous pages, he ought to be able to make a somewhat better bargain with the drago Zaleh contains a population of 10,000 souls, mostly Christian. It is beautifully situated in a deep glen, surrounded by tall poplars. The hills on either side are covered with vineyards. After making the ascent of Lebanon, the scene is the finest in Syria. From Baalbec to the Cedars requires man per day than if only for the single about two days longer. Beyrout contains about 50,000 inhabitants. It is finely situated on a projecting headland of the Mediterranean. The houses are crowded together, and the streets are very narrow; it is, however, considered one of the healthiest towns in Syria. In the suburbs are many commodious houses, surrounded by groves of pricklypear, mulberry, flower, and fruit - trees. To the west and southwest of the city are red sand - hills, rising over 300 feet in height. The hotels are Belle Vue in the town, and Belle Vue outside the town. The latter is preferable, if you intend making any stay. The landlord is an honest and obliging man. Although the Berytus of the Greeks and Romans was much celebrated for its learning, its modern importance is of recent growth. The remains of antiquity are very fine. They consist of a few pillars, the ruins of a moat, and some traces of baths. There are no public buildings of any consequence. The town derives its chief importance from the cultivation of the mulberry-tree in the neighborhood. There are no wheeled vehicles in Beyrout, there being no streets fit for one to run, neither is there a road in the country near it, if we except the fine macadamized road recently built to Damascus by a French company, which must become of immense benefit to the trade and travel of Beyrout. Agrippa the Elder adorned Beyrout with beautiful buildings. It was destroyed by an earthquake about the middle of the sixth century. In 1110 it was captured by the Crusaders under Baldwin I., and remained in their possession, with a short exception, until 1291, when it was taken by the Turks. It was bombarded by an English fleet in 1840 for the purpose of tour. This trip will extend the time about eight days, or about forty days in all. Early in the season, say sooner than May, very nervous lady travelers should not undertake this journey, as there are numerous rivers to ford, some of which are rather difficult, especially when enlarged by recent rains. It is generally near noon before the entire train is en route, and in five hours and a half we arrive at Nah ed-Damour, the ancient Tamyras, where we encamp for the night. This river was formerly crossed by a bridge, the ruins of which are still seen; now it is necessary to ford the stream. The second day brings us to Sidon, after having passed in one hour and a half the Khan Nebi Jounes, or the khan of the prophet Jonah, where tradition fixes the spot where Jonah was vomited out of the whale's belly. Sidon is most picturesquely situated, contains a fine fortress, and 5000 inhabitants, 3000 of whom are Arabs. It was one of the most ancient cities of the Phoenicians, but from the time of the Christian era it has been little worthy of note. The citadel was built by Louis IX. in 1253. In the eighteenth century it was the port of Damascus, and engrossed the commerce of Europe with Syria, but it is now almost without a vessel. The present town consists of a few narrow and dirty streets, and presents nothing of interest to the traveler. In 1855 a remarkable sarcophagus was discovered, about a mile from the city, bearing a Phoenician inscription. It is now in the museum of the Louvre, at Paris. The distance from Sidon to Tyre is about eight hours' actual traveling-a very long day. Tyre is probably one of the most ancient cities of the world, having been founded 2700 years before the Christian era. It rival of Sir Sidney Smith. There is a beautiful mosque in the town, which has been finely repaired lately. A soldier will show you over and round the fortifications. Ten miles over a lovely beach and we arrive at Kaifa, situated at the base of Mount Carmel, or in eight hours (one day) one can arrive at Nazareth, on the direct road to Jerusalem. The ten miles to Kaifa and the excur sion to Mount Carmel will occupy the whole day. You may either encamp at Kaifa, and ride up to the convent on Mount Carmel, returning to the camping-ground in the evening, or remain all night in the convent. The promontory of Mount Car contains a population of 4000 inhabitants, half Christians and half Mohammedans. The only ruins of importance are those of an ancient cathedral, the eastern and western ends of which are standing. This is probably the church where Frederick Barbarossa and Origen were buried, and where William, archbishop of Tyre, and historian of the Crusades, presided during ten years. Tyre was in ancient times one of the most important cities, both in the knowledge of navigation and of the arts. The friendship of its King Hiram and Solomon is well known to the readers of sacred history. The city was besieged by Alexander the Great. Paletyrus, the portion on the main land, was soon taken, but the island resist-mel, which is 1850 feet high, projects a long ed for 7 months, until a mote was formed connecting it with the shore, when it was successfully stormed. It was taken by the Crusaders in 1124, and remained in their hands until the taking of Acre by the Moslems, more than a century later. One hour and a half east from Tyre is the tomb of Hiram, an immense sarcophagus of limestone 12 feet long, resting on a pedestal 10 feet high. From Tyre to Ras en-Nakourah the distance is six hours, or one day's travel. A small détour should be made on leaving Tyre to visit Solomon's Wells, and the ancient aqueduct for conveying water to the city. Six hours from Ras en-Nakourah and we arrive at Acre or Akka (St. Jean d'Acre). Take the inland road from Nakourah-it is far preferable to the shore road; in truth, it is beautiful-lovely lanes lined with high cactus-trees. The population of Acre is about 5000, 700 of whom are Christians. During the time of the Phoenicians it took the name of Ptolemais, and under this name is mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles. The fortifications of Acre are grand, and exceedingly perfect; they are also highly interesting in a historical point of view, illustrating some of the most sanguinary scenes in modern and medieval warfare. It was here the Knights of St. John made their great defense before the hordes of infidels under the Sultan Ibn Kalaoun, who carried the works after a siege of thirtythree days. The Christian citizens and soldiers, to the number of 60,000, were then either put to the sword or sold into slavery. Bonaparte besieged Acre in 1799, and would have carried it but for the ar distance into the sea, and is rich in verdure. The convent is situated in one of the finest positions imaginable. It is specially noticed for being the scene of some of the miracles of Elias, and the monks date the foundation of their order from his time. The sons of the prophet retained possession of his grotto until the birth of Christianity, when they acknowledged the Messiah. Profane writers prove the existence of this sanctuary, and it was visit ed both by Pythagoras and Tacitus. The church of the convent is built over the grotto. Notice in the church the monuIment erected over the remains of Edmond Henri Etienne, Prince de Craon and of the Holy Empire. He died in Paris, but requested that his son should bring his remains here for interment, which filial duty was performed in 1864. Jenin may be reached from Mount Car mel in about ten hours' travel. The distance from Carmel to Jaffa is about three days, encamping the first night at Tantura, a distance of six hours. In three hours you pass Ashlet. This fortress, which was very strong, was the last point occupied by the Crusaders. It held out some fifteen days longer than Acre. Tantura is the ancient Dora, founded by the Phoenicians. There are few of the ru ins to be seen. Three hours from Tantura we pass the ruins of Casarea, the walls of which were partly rebuilt by St. Louis. This city play ed a most important part during the war of the Crusaders, as well as in the time of the Apostles. It was here that Paul was brought a prisoner; here he baptized the Centurian Cornelius; from here he embarked for Rome. The city was built by Herod the Great, and named in honor of Augustus Cæsar. It was captured by Baldwin I. in 1102, retaken by Saladin in 1187, retaken by the Crusaders in 1190, again by the Mussulmans in 1219, and then by St. Louis in 1251. Three hours and a half from Cæsarea we arrive at Maukhalid. The territory between Tantura and this place is under the control of Bedouins, and considered very unsafe. Six hours and a half more and we arrive at Jaffa. Near the River Nahr el-Talek, which we ford, is the plain where Richard Coeur de Lion, at the head of 100,000 Christian warriors, gained a complete victory over 300,000 infidels. (For Jaffa, see Index.) Many travelers land at Beyrout, and take the diligence to Damascus. Visiting Baalbec, going or returning, the expense for the whole trip would be 150 francs, viz., 31 francs for coupé of the diligence to Damascus if you stop at Stoura, where, to take horses for Baalbec, you must pay the whole distance; then, on returning from Baalbec, the same to Damascus-in all, 62 francs, or 93 francs both ways. The proprietor of the small hotel at Stoura will furnish you with a horse, and guide, and food for the excursion for 75 francs, if alone, but with a party of three or more persons the price is about 55 francs. You can take the diligence in the morning from Beyrout, and on its arrival at Stoura take horse for Baalbec the same day. Examine the ruins next morning, returning to Stoura that night, or spend the whole day at Baalbec, returning next morning in time for the diligence. Be particular and have your seat engaged for the day in advance. There are three lines of steamers running from Beyrout to ConstantinopleFrench, Russian, and the Austrian Lloyds. The Austrian Lloyds is the most direct (price to Constantinople, 291 francs; if a party of three, 20 per cent. discount from that). This line touches only at Cyprus, Rhodes, and Smyrna, making the trip in seven days; whereas the Messageries Impériales take ten days, going round the coast, stopping at Tripoli, Latakia, Alexandretta, Mersina, and Smyrna. Most persons prefer the Austrian Lloyds line from Beyrout to Smyrna, and at present three quarters of the travel leave the French line, the agent at Beyrout being one of the most impolite and disagreeable persons it has been our bad fortune to meet with. The officers of the Messageries Impériales line are universally noted for their civility and attention to travelers; he is, however, a grand exception. Tripoli, a Phoenician colony, had in ancient times an extensive commerce, and was divided into three separate quarters belonging to Tyre, Sidon, and Aradus. During the time of the Crusaders it was taken by Baldwin II., but returned to the Moslems in 1289. A castle was built on the Mount of the Pilgrims by Raymond, count of Toulouse, the ruin 3 of which may still be seen. The ancient fortifications, erected by the Crusaders, merit some attention, several towers still remaining. Latakia is one of the most thriving and important places in Syria, and was known in ancient times as Laodicea. It is divided into two towns, separated from each other by extensive gardens. In the upper town is a triumphal arch, supposed by some to have been erected in honor of Julius Cæsar, and by others of Germanicus. It is in a state of good preservation, and some of the ornaments are very curious. The farfamed tobacco of Latakia forms its staple trade, and is sent to all parts of the world. Its general commerce, however, has greatly declined since the rise of Beyrout. Alexandretta, the next city touched by the steamers, owes its name to Alexander the Great, but is not distinguished by any important events either in ancient or modern times. It is far from salubrious, and most Europeans who are obliged to remain here make Baïlan their place of residence, a charming little village about two hours distant. Mersina, or Mersa, is a small port of little importance, and of no interest to the traveler. Taking the Austrian Lloyds steamers, the time from Beyrout to Cyprus is about eleven hours. This island is about 140 miles in length, and possesses great natural fertility. The population is about 130,000. Cyprus was first peopled by the Phoenicians, and afterward colonized by the Greeks, who erected at Paphos the fa mous shrine to the Goddess of Love. It successively belonged to Persia, Egypt, |