and the Ægean Sea, dotted with numerous islands. On the south the Gulf of Corinth and the Morea; and on the west the mountains of Ætolia, of Acarnania, and the Ionian Sea. The descent of the mountain is made on the southeastern side, and occupies about 4 hours before reaching Davlia.

From Athens to Chalcis, the direct route requires but six hours. Chalcis, the capital of the island of Euboea, or Negropont, is situated on the shore, and communicates by a bridge with the Boeotian coast. The first bridge built over the Euripus was during the Peloponnesian War; it was fortified Going from Davlia to Lebadea, we pass in the time of Alexander, but 140 years later through Charonea, the theatre of many it had entirely disappeared. It was again great scenes. Standing, as it does, in a rebuilt about 167 B.C. The Euripus is the plain at the entrance of Boeotia, it has been narrowest portion of the Channel of Egrithe battle-ground of many armies. In 447 pos. A small island stands in the centre, B.C. the Boeotians vanquished the Athe- connected by a stone bridge with the Boonians; in 338 Philip of Macedon gained tian shore, and by a turning-bridge with the battle against the Boeotians and Athe- Chalcis, allowing the passage of vessels. nians, which accomplished the subjugation It is under this bridge that occurs the pheof Greece; and in 86 the generals of Mith-nomenon of the tides, unexplained at the ridates were vanquished by Sylla. The present day. The current flows for some last battle was described by Plutarch. That great writer was born, lived, and died in Charonea. The most interesting monument in Chæronca is the marble lion erected on the tomb of the Boeotians who were slain in the battle with Philip. This monument is now in fragments, having been blown up with gunpowder, during the War of Independence, by the patriot Odysseus, who supposed it to contain hidden treasure. The head is happily untouched, and of the finest workmanship. In the Church of Panagia, in the city, is shown a marble seat, called the throne of Plutarch; also several inscriptions illustrative of the worship of Osiris.

Lebadea is two hours distant from Charonea, and situated on the bank of the Hercyna. This river is a torrent which descends from Mount Helicon, and rushes with great force from a narrow gorge, the site of the ancient Hieron, or sanctuary of Trophonius, for which Lebadea was so celebrated. The two springs at the southern extremity of the village, one hot and one cold, are supposed to be those of Mnemosyne and Lethe, mentioned by Pausanias; but as neither of these springs rise in a cavern, as described by him, there is still some doubt of their identity.

Thebes (7-hours, 30 minutes) is situated on an insulated hill, the summit of which was formerly occupied by the Acropolis. All traces of its ancient splendor have disappeared. The modern village is small and poor, situated between two streams, Dirce and Ismenus. Eleven hours' journey brings you to Athens.

time with great rapidity from north to south, and, after a few minutes of immobility, flows as quickly from south to north. These changes occur as often as fourteen times in twenty-four hours. The fortress of Chalcis stands at the entrance of the bridge, and is a construction of different ages, combining the square towers of antiquity with Venetian bastions and Turkish walls. In the interior is an enormous cannon, similar to the one used by Mohammed II. at the siege of Constantinople. The island of Euboea was one of the principal possessions of the republic of Venice in the days of its prosperity, and the Lion of St. Mark may still be seen over one of its gates. It was conquered by Mohammed II. in 1470.

From Athens to Ægina, Nauplia, Tripolitza, Sparta, Leondari, Andritsena, Olym pia, Elis, and Patras.

The trip from Athens to Nauplia has been described above.

Tripolitza was founded in 1770, and became, during the dominion of the Turks, the capital of the Morea. It was taken by the Greeks in 1820, but, being reconquered by Ibrahim Pasha, was razed to the ground, and is now only rising from its ruins. From Tripolitza to Sparta, eleven hours. This city was founded about 1910 B.C., but its great prosperity dates from the time of Lycurgus, 845 B.C., whose famous code in limiting the royal power, and giving more place to the democracy, rendered Sparta, by its rigid laws, a city of warriors. From this time it gained in power, and, in two bloody wars with Messene and Argos, ob

From Sparta to Mistra, Kalamata, Coron, Modon, Navarin, and Pylos. Mistra was founded in 1207, by William de Villehardouin, and rose to great importance. The city was almost entirely destroyed by the Turks during the War of Independence, and now presents nothing but a mass of ruined houses and churches, the population having almost entirely removed to Sparta. From the citadel, situated on the summit of a hill half an hour distant, a fine view may be obtained.

tained supremacy over the entire Pelo- mountain called Belvedere by the Veneponnesus. The jealousy of Sparta and tians, now called Kaloskopi. About twelve Athens caused the Peloponnesian War, hours brings us to Patras, already dewhich lasted from 431 to 404, and ended in scribed. the defeat of Athens. This victory, however, was the cause of great evil to the Spartans, causing them to relax their rigid laws, and to introduce the luxuriant habits of the Athenians. From this time it began to decline. Sparta was taken by Alaric in the fourth century; in 1460 she fell into the hands of Mohammed II., and was destroyed by Malatesta in 1463. Modern Sparta is a very pretty village, containing several fine houses, a bazar, and a café. No ruins remain but a quadrangular monument called the Tomb of Leonidas, and the Theatre. The latter was not used for dramatic exhibitions, which were forbid den by the code of Lycurgus, but for gymnastic exercises and public assemblies. The central part of the edifice is cut in the hill, but the wings are artificial, and composed of quadrangular stones, uncemented. The seats have been taken away by the inhabitants of Mistra, to whom the building served for a quarry.

Leondari is about eight hours and a half from Sparta, and is a town of picturesque appearance. Its old castle stands in ruins on a hill commanding the city. Continuing our route, we reach Andritsena in about ten hours. This is a pretty village, remarkable for its cleanliness and the air of comfort pervading it. From Andritsena we reach Olympia in seven hours and a half. This was not, in ancient times, a city, but a sacred wood consecrated to Jupiter, under the name of Altis. Here were celebrated, every four years, the Olympic games, when all hostilities were laid aside, and the most implacable enemies met on this neutral ground, peacefully to contest for a prize. The Olympic Games were first permanently established in 884; but the era of the Olympiads was first reckoned in 776 B.C., after the victory of Corobus. The only ruins now to be seen in Olympia are those of the temple of Jupiter. The fluted Doric columns are of enormous size. It was in this temple that stood the colossal statue of Jupiter Olympus, the chefd'œuvre of Phidias, made in gold and ivory, and counted one of the seven wonders of the world. Ancient Elis was situated on the banks of the Peneus, and occupied a

Of the

Kalamata occupies the site of ancient Pheræ, often mentioned by Homer, and is at the present day the most important city of Messenia. It is situated about a mile from the sea, on the left bank of the Nedon, and carries on a considerable trade in oil, silk, and figs. Nine hours brings us to Coron, founded by Epaminondas. ancient city there are few remains. Part of the ancient mole which protected the port may be seen, also the walls of the Acropolis, barely rising above the ground. Recent researches have brought to light two sarcophagi, both well preserved; on one is a fine bas-relief representing a series of combats against the Centaurs.

Modon is reached in six hours. It is situated on a rocky promontory, which advances toward the island of Sapienza. A little island, surmounted by a tower, which is situated at the entrance of the port, communicates with the town by a bridge. The citadel and fortifications of Modon are important. In the centre of the public square, which dates from the Venetians, stands a column in Oriental granite, with a Byzantine capital, on which may still be distinguished a Latin inscription in honor of the Venetians and the Doge Morosini.

Navarin was founded during the Middle Ages, and replaced the ancient Navarin or Pylos. It was taken by the Turks in 1500, and later by the Venetians, who retained it until 1715. It is principally celebrated for the great naval battle which occurred here in 1828, between the English, French, and Russian fleets on one side, and the Turkish fleet on the other. The latter was defeated with fearful loss. The citadel of Navarin is very strong, and was constructed by the

French on the ruins of an old Venetian | ice of Rajah Scindies, of India, all of which castle. From Navarin an excursion may he bequeathed to the town.

be made by boat to Pylos, or ancient Navarin. Pylos was situated on a lofty promontory surrounded by a wall built in the form of a triangle. The castle, situated on the summit of the hill, is all that now remains of the ancient city.

The supposed winding-sheet of the Savior, now at Turin, was deposited in the castle of Chambery for a long time, to see which many noted pilgrims resorted thither, among whom was Francis I. of France. The town is dull, and but little to see. There is a cathedral, public library, college, and theatre.

A short distance from the town is the villa Les Charmette, where resided for a time Madame de Varens and J. Jacques Rousseau. Madame de Varens was buried in the church of Lemanc. See here the tomb of General de Boigne.

A short distance from Chambery we pass the watering-place of Aix les Bains (Grand H. d'Aix), containing about 4000 inhabitants, and the same number of visitors during the season. The mineral and sulphur springs are very numerous, and said to be efficacious in nearly all known cases of illness.

use.

The douche bath is the one most in

Having made the tour of Greece and returned to Athens, you may take a steamer at Piræus to return. There are several lines of steamers touching weekly at Piræus, the port of Athens, sailing for Messina. Time, about 43 hours. There you may change steamer for Naples, or proceed direct to Marseilles. Steamers also sail direct to Brindisi, thence by rail to Turin, and through the Mont Cenis Tunnel to Genoa, where we commence our description of Switzerland: this would be the quickest route. Some may wish to pass into Switzerland via the Pass of St. Bernard, some the Simplon, and some the St. Gothard: all these different passes will be found on examining the Index. Probably many will wish to tarry in Italy, or return via Venice, Vienna, etc., or cross the Splugen Pass. We will suppose, however, that the tunnel of Mont Cenis will have the most attraction, after passing which we arrive at Chambery, the capital of Savoy. Population Several very interesting excursions can 20,000. Hôtel des Princes. It is situated on be made from the town. The principal the banks of a small river which flows into one is to Haute-Combe, on the shore of the the Lake of Bourget. It is noted for its Lac du Bourget. This monastery, foundmanufacture of silk gauze and other fab-ed in the early part of the 13th century rics. The remains of the ancient castle of the princes of Savoy, ancestors of Victor Emmanuel, may still be seen. The castle was erected in 1230, and is now being repaired. Contiguous to the promenade, which leads to the town, may be seen the monumental fountain erected in honor of General de Boigne, a native of Chambery, who made an immense fortune in the serv572

After being thoroughly rubbed by attendants, you are wrapped up in blankets and sent home in a sedan-chair, and put to bed. There is a casino in the town which contains reading and conversation rooms; balls are held twice a week.

by the princes of Savoy, was their burialplace up to 1730, when it was changed for the Superga, near Turin. It was much damaged during the Revolution, but has since been repaired by the King of Sardinia. Among the principal monuments are those of Peter of Savoy, Amadeus V., VI., and VII., Humbert III., Jeanne de Montfort, Louis I., Baron de Vaud.