castle. The building is now used as a Catholic seminary. Notice the chapel of St. Catharine in the old cathedral. The third castle is the episcopal castle of Majoria, the former residence of the ancient governors of Valois. It, as well as a part of the town, was destroyed by fire in 1788. This town has been the scene of numerous battles in days of yore, as every thing in and about it indicates. Notice the peculiar head-dress of the natives. From Sion to Leukerbad by diligence. Time, 7 hours; fare 7 f.; via Sierre. [In four extra days one of the most glorious excursions in Switzerland may be made, viz. From Sion to Zermatt and Riffleberg, Gorner Grat and the Glaciers of Gorner, Furggen and Zmutt. Continue on by the valley of the Rhone to Visp or Vispach. Fare 15 f. Passing Sierre, the residence of the nobility of Haut Valais, the vicinity is rich in vegetation, and very romantic in appearance. Notice the ruins in the neighborhood. Vispuch contains 2000 inhabitants. Hotels, Poste and Sonne. It is picturesquely situated at the junction of the Visp with the Rhone; was formerly a place of some importance as a residence of noble families, but it has much degenerated, partly owing to its sufferings from the earthquakes of 1855, which lasted for several months, and destroyed nearly every house in the town. From Vispach, to make the excursion to Zermatt and Riffleberg, will cost, for horse and man, 10 f. per day. Stop first night at St. Nicolas. Next day to Riffleberg, returning to St. Nicolas after the excursion to Gorner Grat. If in no particular hurry, stop by all means for two or three days at Zermatt. This village of 500 inhabitants is situated nearly 5400 feet above the level of the sea, amid the finest scenery of the Alps. One of the principal objects in view are the Matterhorn or Mont Cervin, and one of the most striking objects in the world, and only one thousand feet lower than the "Monarch" himself. There are two hotels at Zermatt, the Mont Rosa and Mont Cervin. The Mont Rosa is kept by the same proprietors that keep the house at Riffleberg, a distance of two and a half hours from Zermatt. To visit the Gorner Grat from Riffleberg requires one and a half hours more. Should you intend mak ing a hurried tour, say of three or four days, by all means engage horses at Vispach to go and return, thus saving the return expense of your horses; but if you propose making a few days' stop, engage your horses only to Zermatt, as from thence you can obtain better horses and guides, and at lower rates, than at Vispach. The view from the summit of the Gorner Grat extends over a panorama of vast extent, and is considered finer than any other in Switzerland. The three Zum-Taugwalds of Zermatt are all considered trustworthy guides.] Leukerbad, or Loeche-les-Bains, is situ ated in an elevated position (4500 feet above the level of the sea), in the midst of a fine green plain in the basin of the mountain. The village contains about 600 inhabitants. Principal hotels are Hôtel des Alps, Bellevue, and de France. Board by the day from eight to nine francs; by the week, from six to seven per day. The hot springs are much celebrated; the average temperature is 120° Fahr. The season begins in June and ends in October. The patient generally commences with a bath of a half hour's duration, and gradually increases to eight hours-five before and three after dinner. The baths are about twenty feet square, and capable of accommodating twenty persons at a time, who, male and female, bathe in common; the ladies' dressing-room on one side, the gentlemen's on the other, both communicating with the baths. Here, dressed in long woolen robes, they eat, read, converse, flirt, and play chess. In each room is a gallery where spectators are admitted to look on or converse with the bathers. The sight is most amusing to see fifteen or twenty heads, which appear floating on the water, surrounded by swimming tables containing chess-boards, newspapers, books, and coffee-cups. Around the walls are suspended rules and regulations for the purpose of preserving decorum. Arguments on religious questions are proscribed. Any person violating the rules is fined from two to twenty francs, which is enforced by the burgomaster of the town. The baths are open from 4 A.M. until 10 A.M., and from 2 to 5 P.M. There are numerous interesting excursions in the vicinity of Leukerbad-that to the town of Albinem by the "ladders" is perhaps the most exciting. The men and women of, as well as the visitors to that town, must dress pretty much a la meme. From Leukerbad to Kandersteg, time 7 hours; fare for horse, 15 f. This is one of the most picturesque, wild, and, apparent ly, most dangerous passes in Europe, but the beauty and grandeur of the passage will well repay the danger. We would not, however, advise ladies who are subject to dizziness to make this tour. A French lady, in 1861, coming from Kandersteg, was seized with vertigo, fell from her horse, and was dashed to pieces in the abyss below. This was in making the descent, which is more difficult than the ascent. The trip is made on horse or mule back, or on foot. At some particular places it would be well to dismount if riding. The road for a portion of the way is merely a shelf cut into the face of the solid perpendicular rock, about four feet wide. At all of the dangerous places there is a small wall on the outside of the path for the benefit of persons of unsteady nerves. Half way between Leukerbad and Kandersteg we pass the small and solitary inn of Schwarenbach, which is the only one between the two points: it is a dreary place. In 1807 the daughter of the old innkeeper was assassinated by two Italians, and six years later the German poet Werner lived here several weeks, and here laid the plot of his drama, "The 24th of February." Kandersteg is a small village of 500 inhabitants, the first we meet in the valley: its situation is charming, and from it a magnificent panorama of the mountains may be seen. Hôtel Bär and H. Victoria, some distance apart. From Kandersteg to Frutigen, distance 8 miles; fare 7 fr. The road passes under Tallenberg Castle. There are no relics of antiquity to be seen at Frutigen, the whole village having been destroyed by fire and inundations in 1827. Hôtel Adler the best. From Frutigen to Thun, time 4 hours, fare 10 fr. most frequented approach to the Bernese Oberland, the favorite summer resort of tourists. The town itself contains nothing of particular interest within its walls, if we except the picturesque castle of Keyburg and the old cathedral church; also a very handsome modern castle, between the river and lake, built by M. Rougemont, of Paris: the town also contains a military college. From Thun to Interlachen, which lies at the other end of Lake Thun, time hour; fare, 2 fr. to Neuhaus by steamer, and fr. by omnibus to Interlachen. Lake Thun is about ten miles long and three miles wide: near Thun the banks are covered with pretty villas and gardens; as we approach nearer Interlachen they become more steep and bluff. If proceeding by land to Interlachen, via Merligen and Unterseen, visit the cave of St. Beatus, situated near the road. This fabulous saint' would have been a fit companion of St. Saba, of Holy Land notoriety, they both having taken fancies to caves occupied by wild beasts: St. Saba pitted his strength against a lion, and St. Beatus against a dragon. They both gave orders to the quadrupeds to "stand not on the order of their going, but go at once," and they took up their beds and went. There is a small river which rises out of the cave, and often fills it to overflowing. St. Beatus must have had rather a damp time of it. From Neuhaus, where the steamer stops, to Interlachen, distance 2 miles; carriage, 1 fr.; two horses, 2 fr. Interlachen is a very pretty village, composed of hotels and whitewashed boardinghouses; pretty, not in itself, as there is nothing in the town to attract, but taking into consideration its lovely surroundings and pleasant excursions--in full view of the Jungfrau, within a few hours of Staubbach, Lauterbrunnen, Giesbach Falls, and the Grindelwald glaciers-a few weeks may be spent here very pleasantly. The principal hotels are the Grand Hotel Victoria, opposite the Jungfrau, and the Jungfraublick, both first-class houses and well conducted. The town was formerly noted for its cheapness, but it is rapidly correct Thun. This picturesque and delightful town is situated on the River Aar, a short distance from Lake Thun: it contains nearly 4000 inhabitants. Principal hotel is the Bellevue, situated outside the town in a most lovely position, and managed ing that reputation; it must, however, readmirably. The beautiful suburbs of main for all time a favorite resort for sumThun make it one of the most agreeable mer tourists, as long as the Falls of Staubresidences in Switzerland; it forms the bach, "That left so late the mountain's brow, Breaks into drops that part forever," ters. make them, who had captivated the heart of a noble knight, a dependent and kinsman of the baron's greatest enemy, Berchtold of Zaaringen. The youthful lover, knowing his case was desperate, scaled the castle walls in the dead of night, and carMany tourists make all the various ex- ried off the beauteous maiden while her un. cursions in the vicinity of Interlachen, still suspicious "parient" lay indulging in the retaining that village as their head-quar- arms of Morpheus. For years the outraged Some make the tour as laid down at father followed up his wrongs with fire and sword, and various were the results bethe commencement of our route; others go direct to Lucerne via the Laks Brienz, the tween the conflicting parties. At last, one Brunig Pass, and Lungern; and others, morning, the knight, his bride, and infant who do not intend following our tour up son appeared alone and unarmed in the the Lake Lucerne to Altorf and St. Go-strong-hold of the baron: such confidence thard, leave Interlachen for Lauterbrunnen could have but one result-the father was over the Wengern Alp to Grindelwald, overcome; he pardoned his son and daughthen to Meyringen over the Grimsel and ter, took his grandchild to his heart, and Furca Pass to Andermatt, Altorf, and Flü- immediately gave orders to kill the fatted elen to Lucerne. The last is decidedly calf, and celebrate the day with feasting, The grandson was the best route if not intending to cross the rejoicing, and games. made heir to all the immense possessions, Alps to Lake Maggiore and Como. and lived a long and happy life. Interlachen is particularly noted for its beauThe principal tiful carvings in wood. carver, and one of the best in Switzerland, is Mr. Grossman, situated between the Schweizerhof and Belvidere hotels. There is a fixed tariff for horses and guides in all the Bernese Oberland, which may be seen at all of the hotels in Interlachen: for guides, from six to eight francs per day, and six francs return fare; for horses, thirteen francs per day. For one horse and voiture to make the excursion to Lauterbrunnen and return, nine francs; with two horses, eighteen francs. By Lauterbrunnen and the Wengern Alp to Grindelwald and return, twenty-eight francs; with two horses, fifty-five francs. charge for donkeys per day, six francs; by the hour, one and a half franc. The From Interlachen to Lauterbrunnen, riding or walking, requires nearly two hours notice on the right the castle of Unspunnen. This is the supposed residence of Lord Byron's "Manfred:" : I hear ye momently, above, beneath, Crush with a frequent conflict." Before arriving at the castle, an immense level tract of ground, covered with richest verdure, is passed. On this meadow rural games, such as wrestling, running, pitching stones, etc., have been periodically celebrated for many centuries. The origin of the custom is given as follows: The Baron of Unspunnen, who was the last male descendant of his race, had an only daughter, lovely as-well, as they Lauterbrunnen, which means "nothing but fountains" in its literal sense, is derived from the number of streams, some twenty in number, which precipitate themselves into the depth of the valley below. There is a small hotel, the Steinbock, and a café, the Van Almen, and about 1200 inhabitants. The Falls of Staubbach, which are the deepest in Europe, disappoint at first view; they are variously estimated from 800 to 1100 feet in height, but the quantity of water is so small that it does not impress one with any degree of sublimity. The water is precipitated from such an immense height that it is broken into spray resembling dust long before it arrives at the bottom; hence its name. Byron, in his "Manfred," compares its appearance to the tail of the white horse on which Death was mounted. The best time to examine the fall is between 9 A.M. and 1 P.M. The upper valley of the Lauterbrunnen will well repay a visit. The Falls of Schmadribach, which are equal to most in Switzerland, requires one day from Lauterbrunnen. Take a guide if you go (price 5 fr.). From Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald they charge you half a franc for warming there are two roads, one taken by those who | yourself if the house be crowded, and when neither wish to walk nor travel mounted, who prefer their comfort to the sublime view of the Jungfrau and the pure air of the mountains, that is, if one can procure any comfort in those anti-dyspeptic chars on the high road. The time is two hours; distance about nine miles. The other and most interesting route is by the Wengern Alp, or Lesser Scheideck. This, during fine weather, is one of the most frequented paths in Switzerland, and every day lady pedestrians may be seen traversing it. Mules and horses may be used with perfect safety; we would advise the services of a guide if none of the party have crossed the range before. Ladies not able to walk or ride may hire a chaise-à-porteur, a kind of sedan-chair carried by two men on poles. The Falls of Giesbach may be reached in seven hours from the summit of the Faulhorn, without touching at Meyringen. From Grindelwald to Meyringen or Reichenbach, time 8 hours. For horse, 20 f. During the spring the avalanches down the sides of the Wetterhorn almost reach the traveler's path, where the snow remains piled up nearly the whole summer. When travelers are passing, a cowherd generally plays upon the Alpine horn. The echo from the cliffs of the mountain is really supernaturally sweet. After passing the Baths of Rosenlaui, near which we find the source of the Reichenbach, we arrive at the glacier of Rosenlaui, incased between the Wetterhorn and Englehorn. This, although one of the smallest, is one of the most pure and brilliant of the glaciers of Grindelwald. From the Hotel de la Jungfrau, where you meet with the tourists coming from Grindelwald and the Lesser Scheideck, you can behold the Virgin mountain in all her glory rising to an elevation of 13,700 feet above the level of the sea, and covered with perpetual snow. From here, about noon in warm weather, may be seen, every ten minutes, immense avalanches of ice and snow descending from her sides into the Gulf of Trümleten, which divides her from the Wengern Alp, whence arise clouds of pulverized ice, like the foam of the angry ocean, attended by a sound like echoing thunder; while the majesty of the Wetter-ous. horn, the Dent d'Argent, and the Great and Little Giant, is only eclipsed by their virgin sister. We now descend toward the glaciers of Grindelwald, the Metterhorn rising in all his glory immediately before us. The village of Grindelwald contains nearly 3000 inhabitants, has two hotels, the Adler and Bär, the former a very good house; both are generally full during the season. After spending a day with a guide examining the upper and lower glacier (for horse seven francs), we should make the ascent of the Faulhorn, from the summit of which one of the nearest and best views of the whole range of the Bernese Alps can be obtained; the trip occupies eight hours, five to make the ascent, and three the descent. An inn is open on the summit four months in the year, which is capable of accommodating some thirty guests at a time. Don't imagine you can have a room to Tourists had better dismount as they descend into the valley of Meyringen, for the footing is none of the safest. The cascades and waterfalls are here very numer Visit the Falls of Reichenbach. In fact, the whole stream is a series of falls or leaps, these being the longest. The visitor is taxed certain centimes for the privilege of obtaining a good view. There are two hotels now erected near the falls, the H. Reichenbach and H. des Alps. The village of Meyringen is situated about half a mile distant, and contains about 2500 inhabitants. H. Krone and Wilder Mann. This town is the chief place in the valley of Hasli. The surroundings are very beautiful, but the town has suffered much from inundations and the Alpbach torrents, which frequently rush down the mountain gorge behind the village, sweeping mud, trees, and rocks before it in its wild career. In 1762 nearly the whole village was covered twenty feet deep beneath the rubbish. Notice the Castle of Resti behind the village. The Falls of the Aar at Handeck are about sixteen miles distant, on the road to the Grimsel and Furca Pass. Six dif ferent roads meet at Meyringen: from Brienz; from Lucerne by the Brunig; from Wasen, on the route of St. Gothard by the Susten; that from the Grimsel; from Grindelwald, and from Engelberg by the Loch Pass. [From Meyringen to Lucerne by the Hospice of the Grimsel, Furca Pass, Andermatt, and Altorf. Charge for one horse to the Grimsel, 20 f.; time, 8 hours: to Andermatt, 40 f. This is one of the most grand and interesting excursions across the Alps. Half way to the Grimsel we pass the celebrated Falls of Aar, near Handeck, considered one of the finest cataracts in Switzerland. The Hospice of the Grimsel is a bleak and solitary position, some 7000 feet above the level of the sea. It is noted for the sanguinary skirmish between the French under Gudin and the Austrians under Strauch in the war of 1789. The panoramic view from the Grimsel is very magnificent. In eight hours more you arrive at Hospenthal, passing the Todten Sea, or "Sea of the Dead," so called from the sterility of its situation, and the Furca Pass, over 8000 feet above the level of the sea, where you may spend the night and see the sun rise. Then to Hospenthal or to Andermatt. Hotel du St.Gothard. Now proceed to Flüelen by the valley of the Reuss. This portion of the tour is of most surpassing magnificence, and in the vicinity of the Devil's Bridge, which is crossed, its beauty baffles description.] From Meyringen to Brienz, distance 8 miles; diligence twice a day; fare 1 f.; by char, 6 f. Brienz.-Hotels, L'Ours and Croix Blanc. Population 2300. This village is remarkable for wooden-ware, its lovely situation at the head of the lake, and its vicinity to the celebrated Falls of Giesbach, and to the base of the Rothhorn, which should by all means be ascended: time, five hours ascending and four hours descending; horse 15 f., guide 5 f. The Lake of Brienz is noted for a delicious fish called the lotte, which they will cook for you at the hotels. Rowboats from Brienz to the Giesbach Falls in half an hour, fare 1 f. Steamers run daily to Interlachen in one hour, stopping at Giesbach. Perhaps it would be preferable to put up at the hotel at Giesbach, and witness the illumination of the falls, which takes place every evening, Sundays This is done excepted, during the season. by means of Bengal lights. At a given signal, made by the clock of the hotel, all the visitors hasten to the terrace of the "Maison Kehrli," one of the dependencies of the hotel, when, at the firing of a gun, the falls are instantaneously illuminated with red, white, and green light. Visitors are charged one franc each. From Brienz to Lucerne in 7 hours; fare 11 f. 60 c. From Brienz to Stanstad, ria the Brunig Pass and Lungern, by diligence. From Stanstad to Lucerne by steamer. Secure a place in the coupé, if possible. After crossing Brunig we descend to the village of Lungern: hotel Brunig. The small lake of Lungern was formerly a large sheet of water, but the inhabitants, caring more for land than water, had it tapped in 1788, and a large portion of the water drained off. A tunnel 1400 feet long was bored underneath a portion of the lake, and one thousand pounds of gunpowder placed at the end of the tunnel and ignited; the consequences were that in sixteen days the water was lowered 120 feet; the village narrowly escaped sliding into the chasm: the whole cost was $25,000. After passing the village of Sarnen, which contains some 3000 inhabitants, we arrive at Stanstad, where we take steamer for Lucerne, passing close to the base of Mt. Pilatus, which rises over 7000 feet above the level of the sea, and forms the guardian, with Rigi on its opposite shores, of Lucerne, the queen in beauty of all the lakes of Switzerland. It is part of the border between Lucerne and the neighboring canton of Unterwald. Mont Pilatus, or Pilate, derives its name from an ancient tradition that Pontius Pilate, governor of Judea, having been banished from Rome by Tiberius, found his way to Switzerland, where, after wandering about for some time, tormented by remorse and agony of mind, he threw himself into the lake at the summit of the mountain. For many centuries it was forbidden under severe penalties to approach this mountain, so prevalent was the belief in the superstition of the times even by the government of Lucerne. Its position as the advanced guard of the Alps causes all the storms and clouds that float from the higher mountain region toward Lucerne to break first upon Pilatus, and hence the supersti |