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tels, Hecht and Adler. Although situated on the Swiss side of the lake, it belongs to the duchy of Baden, having been ceded by Austria in 1805.

The Cathedral, or Munster of Constance, is a fine Gothic structure, founded in 1048; was rebuilt at the commencement of the 16th century. It was in this cathedral that John Huss was condemned. Robert Haliam, bishop of Salisbury, president of the English delegation which condemned him to be burnt, is buried in front of the high altar The place is pointed out by a brass plate where Huss stood when receiving the sentence. Notice the bas-reliefs on the doors of the principal entrance. There are twenty compartments, representing scenes in the life of the Savior. Make the ascent of the tower: the view is magnificent. Examine the relics in the sacristy.

short distance from the city, is still pointed out: also the house in Paul's Strasse in which he lodged, and which contains a likeness of this celebrated theologian in relief on the wall.

Boats leave Constance for Lindau, Friederichshausen, and Bregenz several times every day. The whole fare from Schaffhausen to Bregenz, 9 fr. 80 c.

Lake Constance is the largest of the German lakes, thirty-five miles long by eight wide. At its greatest depth it is nearly one thousand feet deep. The Rhine enters it at the southeast, and issues from it at the northwest. Its banks are noted for their great fertility, abounding in vineyards, corn-fields, and orchards, with handsome villas and smiling villages.

At Romanshorn you usually change boats. Since the completion of the railroad from this point to Zurich the travel has been very great. Many persons coming from the Rhine enter Switzerland via Stuttgart, Ulm, and Friederichshausen; also those coming from Munich ria Augsburg and Lindau, and vice versa. Travelers coming up the Rhine for the purpose of entering

mend, after visiting Baden-Baden, to go back to the Bruchsal Station and visit Stuttgart, one of the most interesting cities in Europe; then Ulm to Friederichshausen. The distance to Zurich is not much greater than by Basle, but the interest immeasurably so.

The ancient convent of the Dominicans, situated on a small island connected with the town by a bridge, is noted as the place of confinement of Huss: it is now used as a store-house. The Salle de la Douane, erected in 1388, contains numerous Roman, Germanic, and Huss relics; fee 1 fr. This Switzerland we would strongly recombuilding is particularly interesting from being the place of meeting of the famous Council of Constance, the object of which was to vindicate the authority of general councils, to which the Roman pontiff was declared to be amenable. The Council first proceeded to dispose of three popesJohn XXII., Gregory II., and Benedict X. They then elected Martin V., settling the variances that had disturbed the Church for forty years. A dark blot will, however, forever rest on the memory of the Council for their treachery in arresting John Huss and Jerome of Prague after the President of the Council, the Emperor Sigismund, had promised to give the former safe-conduct out of the reach of his enemies. Huss was treacherously seized, condemned, and burnt at the stake on the 6th July, 1415, and Jerome on the 30th May the following year. The works of Wicliffe were condemned to be burnt. The Council consisted of over 400 of the greatest magnates and scholars of the Continent, including emperors, popes, cardinals, bishops, and archbishops. The sittings continued four years, from 1414 to 1418. The place where Huss suffered martyrdom, a

Lindau-Bairescherhof hotel, near the landing, very good: here you disembark if on your way to Munich. This small and strongly-fortified town, belonging to the kingdom of Bavaria, is very beautifully situated on two small islands in Lake Constance, and connected with the shore by long wooden bridges. On your right as you enter the harbor, an immense Bavarian lion, sitting on his hinder legs, greets you with any thing but a welcoming smile. On the opposite side of the entrance there is a high watch-tower and light-house. On the port there is a monument to Maximilian II., erected in 1856, after the model of Holbig: it rests on a pedestal, the sides of which are ornamented with the coats of arms of different cities, and figures representing Navigation, Industry, Commerce, and the Arts.

611

MONEY.

[TYROL.]

MODES OF TRAVEL

pfenning. Paper is the principal currency. The notes in general use are one, two, five, and ten gulden. When leaving the Tyrol, be certain and get either gold or silver (say francs) for any money you have left in Austrian coin, or else you will lose considerable in discounts.

It is absolutely necessary that your pass

THE Tyrol is one of the provinces of Austria, and is mountainous throughout. It extends from Upper Austria, across the ranges of the Eastern Alps, to the Lake of Garda upon the Italian side of the mountains, and embraces the upper portions of the valley of the rivers Inn and Adige. Many of the higher summits of the Alps are comprised within the limits of the Tyr-port has the requisite visés, else you will ol. Among the most notorious are those surely get into trouble with the authori of the Drei-herrn Spitz, the Ortler Spitz, ties. and the Gross Glockner, or Big Bell. The celebrated Brenner Pass, which leads from Innspruck to the valley of the Adige, is within its territory; and the Pass of Stelvio, the highest carriage-road in the world, is on its border.

The best season to make the different excursions through the Tyrol is July and August for the northern frontier, September and October for the southern.

The best gold coin to take to the Tyrol is napoleons: it is much better known than English sovereigns. The coins of Bavaria and Austria both pass current in the Tyrol. The Austrian florin or gulden equals 50 c. U. S., and the Bavarian florin or gulden equals 40 c. U. S. Accounts are generally kept in convention munz, marked C. M., which indicates that there are only 60 kreutzers in the gulden, whereas, in common usage, there are 72. The tourist, when he is paying kreutzers away and getting guldens exchanged, had better infer that the reckoning is made 72 kr. to the gulden. Austria has recently adopted a new monetary system (the decimal). but there is no coin to correspond to it. Thus, the new florin (50 c. U. S.) 100 kreutzers, which equals two thirds of the Prussian thaler. Accounts in the Tyrol are mostly kept in the old style, 60 kr.-1 florin C. M.

The gold coin used is worth as follows: Sovereign=10 gulden. Napoleon=8 gulden. The Friedrich d'Or=8 gulden and 10 kreutzers, C. M.

The silver coin are "zwanzigers" or "lire"=164 c. U. S. cur., and pieces of 6 kreutzers 5 c. U. S. cur.

The copper coins are pieces of "1 kreutzer," "kreutzer," "kreutzer," and 1

Guides are not requisite in the Tyrol, with perhaps the exception of when making the ascent of the Gross Glockner, crossing Monte Gavia, between Kals and Heiligen Blut, and to the Pasterze Glacier. The best guides may be obtained at Innspruck or Bregenz. The regular price is 2 florins per day, and a small pour boire, although there is no fixed tariff as in Switzerland.

The most comfortable manner for families or parties to travel through the Tyrol is by vetturino-they are very comfortable, and good horses may be obtained-or better still with one's own carriage and posthorses. There is next the seperat-wagen, which belongs to the postal establishment, and is cheaper than the vetturino: a party of four persons may engage it, but, being covered, it is very hot and dusty in the summer. Then comes the eilwagen, or mail-coach, which runs upon all the principal roads and thoroughfares, and is quite roomy and expeditious. The omnibus, or stellwagen, is very slow and very cheap, running daily over all the principal roads, holding from ten to twelve persons: it travels about five miles per hour, at from six to nine kreutzers per mile; it also contains a coupé, holding three persons; the centre individual can see but little. To study the manners and customs of the people this is the conveyance, but a man must be sure proof against tobacco smoke. Ev ery man and boy in the Tyrol smokes, and smokes all the time, and smokes the poorest kind of tobacco; consequently, when an omnibus is very full on a hot day, and it is impossible to see the dust for the smoke, or the smoke for the dust, most people would prefer a higher priced conveyance. In fact, if you want to carry on an

active flirtation with one of the female beauties of the Tyrol, it is fully as safe as passing through a tunnel.

The author received the following prices, recently adopted, from the Austrian government, being much led astray by following an English guide-book: For one horse, per post, 1 florin 70 kr.; pour boire for postillion per German mile (5 English miles), 35 kr.; one place in the eilwagen per German mile, 56 kr. ; one place in the eilwagen from Bregenz to Innspruck, 16 fl. 10 kr.; one seperat-eilwagen, per post, 7 fl. 52 kr.; one seperat-eilwagen to Innspruck, 4 places, 98 fl. 47 kr.

The language spoken in the north of Tyrol is the German, that in the south the Italian.

It is almost impossible to give a description of any particular dress peculiar to the peasantry of the Tyrol, as it varies so much in the different Thals or valleys. The men generally wear brown jackets, breeches to the knee, stockings from about two inches below the breeches to the ankle, but no farther; the feet are covered with immense thick shoes; the hats partake of the Italian brigand style, high black velvet, ornamented with a cock's feather or bunch of flowers; and sooner expect to meet a dog without his tail than a Tyrolese without his porcelain pipe, and blue or red umbrella. The females usually wear short dark petticoats, stuff jackets, and gray or green stockings, a Leghorn hat with an immense brim, a velvet cap like the males, or a loose handkerchief, never forgetting that interminable red or blue umbrella.

In addition to our direct route through the Tyrol to Munich via Bludenz, Stuben, Landeck, and Innspruck, there are several others which are very interesting, viz.:

to Varenna in seven days. See 2d excursion. From Varenna to Chiavenna, over the Splugen Pass, via Mala, Thusis, and Coire, by rail to Zurich.

5. From Bregenz via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Stelvio, Bormio, Bernini Pass, the Glaciers, Julier Pass, Tiefenkasten, to Coire.

We shall describe in detail the two principal routes. The first, direct from Bregenz to Innspruck, via Feldkirch, the Arleberg Pass, and Landeck; time three days. The other, which will give the traveler a very thorough knowledge of the Tyrol, is from Bregenz by the Arleberg Pass to Landeck, over the Finstermünz Pass to Meran and Botzen, and via Sterzing across the Brenner Pass to Innspruck. From thence to Munich via Salzburg, by rail, through one of the loveliest valleys in Europe.

The roads over all these routes are very good, and can be traveled with vetturino; single travelers by eilwagen or omnibus.

Bregenz, situated at the eastern end of Lake Constance, contains 3000 inhabitants. Hôtel d'Autriche, on the lake, the best. The landlord, who was formerly a guide, is well acquainted with the Tyrol, and will procure guides, horses, and vetturino for you.

The principal trade of Bregenz is exporting wooden houses, which are made by the peasants in the valley, and brought here in pieces. There are several Roman ruins to be seen in and around the city. It was in this vicinity that Tiberius and Drusus fought the Vindelicians, having conveyed an army of Romans across the Lake Constance by means of a fleet constructed on its banks.

After ascending the hill of Gebhardsberg, or Schlossberg, where may be seen the ruins of the castle of the Counts of Montfort, a magnificent view of the whole of Lake Constance and the surrounding country may be obtained. After passing the town of Dornbirn, which contains 7000 inhabitants-nearly all of whom are employ

1. From Bregenz to Venice in seven days, viz., via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Mals, Trafoi, Meran, and Botzen, in six days. From Botzen by rail in five hours to Verona, and three and a half hours to Venice. 2. Next, from Trafoi to the Baths of Bor-ed making wooden houses, and the pretty mio, Tirano, Sondrio, to Varenna, in seven days. See 1st excursion.

3. From Botzen to Sterzing, and over the Brenner Pass, in eight days from Bregenz. See 1st excursion.

4. If wishing to return to Switzerland, not visiting Munich, in ten days the following excursion can be made: From Bregenz

town of Hohenems, we arrive at Feldkirch. Hôtel Post and Engel Gabriel. This town is a natural fortress inclosed by mountains, and was formerly the key to this side of the Tyrol, and guarded by the ancient castle of Schattenberg. The town is prettily situated on the River Ill; contains some 1700 inhabitants. There are several

oil and cotton mills. A defile near here has been frequently the theatre of bloody combats between the French and Austrians. In 1799, after the intrenchments of Feldkirch had been taken by the French, Massena, the French general, advanced on the town, but was repulsed by the Austrians. The same event happened to the French general Molitor a year later.

After passing the towns of Bludenz and Dalaas, we arrive at Stuben, at the western base of the Arlberg. Hôtel Post. This town is the line which separates Vorarlberg from the Tyrol. From here the affluents of the Rhine and Danube take their separate courses. We now approach the summit of the pass by a winding road, constructed by the Emperor Joseph II., and arrive at the Hospice of St. Christopher. The founder of this charitable institution was once a poor cowherd, who formed the benevolent design of erecting this building for the protection of travelers, who frequently perished in the snow-storms in crossing the pass. He made a tour through Europe for the purpose of collecting subscriptions, and has been the means of saving hundreds of lives. Snow often lies on the road in the winter season to a depth of twenty-five feet. We saw it six feet deep as early as September in 1862.

St. Anton-Hôtel Rechung, very comfortable, where travelers stop for the night. The scenery of this neighborhood is highly interesting. The hills and mountains are mostly covered with forests of fir, and studded and relieved by villages and fine old castles.

After passing the village of Flirsch, notice the picturesquely situated Castle of Wiesberg. The River Rosanna, along whose lovely banks we are traveling, here leaps from rock to rock, forming most lovely cascades.

Landeck-hotels Post and Schwarzen Adler-built on both sides of the River Inn, at the junction of the three roads, viz., that from Innspruck; from Bregenz, and over the Finstermünz Pass. The town is mostly surrounded with heights which, with their castles and villas, present a very beautiful appearance. In this vicinity, in 1809, a most desperate fight took place between the Bavarians and Tyrolese, in which nearly ten thousand of the former were cut to pieces.

[If making the tour over the Finstermünz Pass to Botzen and back to Innspruck, over the Brenner Pass, you here turn off to the right. This route we shall describe after having described Innspruck.]

Three miles from Landeck we pass the ruins of the Castle of Kronburg, situated on the top of a high rock, in a most picturesque position.

Imst-Hotel Post. A very fine town, the houses being nearly all new, the town having been completely destroyed by fire in 1822. A short distance from Imst, and we arrive at the village of Brennbüchl, where, in 1854, the King of Saxony died of wounds received from the feet of his horses after having been thrown from his carriage. In the inn where he died the following inscription may be seen: "Le 9 août, 1854, vers 11 h. du matin, S. M. Frédéric Auguste, roi de Saxe, mourut des suite de blessures reçues à la tête." A few steps from the town a small chapel has been erected to mark the spot where the accident occurred. This custom will be noted in traversing all the roads through the Tyrol. The uncertainty of life is marked in every direction. Wherever a fatal accident has happened, a memorial is planted, consisting of a cross or crucifix, with a record of the event, and a request to wayfarers to say a prayer for the good of the soul of the deceased. In addition to these there are numerous crosses set up as guide-posts in every direction, which expresses the true devotional and religious feeling which exists among the natives.

Before arriving at the town of Silz, we pass, on the right, the ruins of the Castle of Petersburg, the birthplace and residence of Margaret of Tyrol, or "Pouting Meg," as she was called, who was the last of the line of Tyrolean princes. She married a prince of the house of Austria, and took the Tyrol as her dowry.

After passing Silz, notice on the right the monastery of Stams, founded by the mother of Conradin, who was beheaded at Naples in the seventeenth year of his age. He was a prince of the house of Austria, and took the title of King of the Two Sicilies, was excommunicated by the Pope, and defeated by Charles of Anjou in his struggle for the throne of Naples. There is a tradition that his mother devoted the money she had collected for his ransom to the founding of this monastery. The church

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varying from six to ten thousand feet in height. The river is crossed by two bridges, one of wood, and the other a handsome suspension bridge of recent construction. On the 12th of April, 1809, the former of the two was the scene of a sanguinary struggle between the Tyrolese and Bavarians, in which the latter were repulsed with great loss. On the 29th of May and 13th of August of the same year these combats were renewed on a more extensive scale, but every time with the same effect.

the sepulchral chapel may be seen the tombs of many of the dukes of Tyrol. The Emperor Frederick of the Empty Purse, and Bianca Maria Sforza, second wife of Maximilian I., are also buried here. After passing the small village of Telfs, we arrive at Zirl, a small but handsomely-situated village, whence the ascent of the Solstein, the highest mountain in the vicinity of Innspruck, is made. The Solstein is nearly ten thousand feet above the level of the sea, and the wide-spreading view from its summit over the valleys of the Inn and The principal object of attraction in InnIsar is most glorious. Twenty minutes spruck is the tomb of Maximilian I. in the from Zirl and we arrive at Martinsward, Hofkirche, or church of the Franciscans. a perpendicular buttress of the Solstein It is considered one of the most splendid mountain. Nearly one thousand feet above monuments in Europe, and a sight of it the road, in a cave in the face of the rock, alone will repay a visit to the Tyrol. The three crucifixes may be seen: they were monument is situated in the centre of the erected in commemoration of a miracle sup- church, and consists of a high marble sarposed to have been worked during the life cophagus, on which the effigy of Maximilof the Emperor Maximilian. The tradi- ian in bronze appears kneeling. The stattion is that the emperor, on one occasion ue is by Ludovico del Duca. On the sides when out hunting, coming too near the of the sarcophagus are 24 reliefs in marble, edge of the precipice, missed his footing representing the principal events in the and fell some distance down the precipice, life of the emperor. Nos. 8, 9, 10, and 11 but, on the verge of the perpendicular rock, are considered the finest specimens of Alexhe managed to arrest his headlong career ander Colin, of Mechlin, who executed by clinging, head downward, to a ledge of from No. 1 to 20. From 21 to 24 were exrock, but in such a position that it was im- ecuted by Bernard Abel, of Cologne. No. possible to save himself, nor could any 8, the return of Margaret, Maximilian's mortal approach him. While in this peril- daughter, from France, is most exquisitely ous situation he was perceived from below, executed. These skillfully and elaborateand prayers were offered up for his soul by ly executed specimens of bas-reliefs are the curé of Zirl. At the moment when considered the very perfection of the art. the Host was being elevated an angel ap- They are covered with screens, which will peared by the side of the emperor, just as be removed by the sacristan, who will exhe was on the point of releasing his hold, plain the different compartments, and will his strength having failed him, and carried expect a fee of 20 kr. You will notice him by an unknown road to the summit, here, as you must have noticed in many so say the natives; but non-believers in other parts of Europe, that the guide, after miracles say the emperor was saved by a having pointed out on the bas-reliefs the hunter named Zips, who had fled to the heads of some of the spears which are mountains to escape the punishment of broken off, will tell you it was the French poaching, and who had been led to the Vandals who did it. Now, as many of same spot by a wounded chamois. Of these are more delicate than a pipe-stem, course Zips was forgiven, and loaded with we only wonder how they could have been honors and rewards. The question be- so well preserved for so long a time. The tween the angel and Zips is still undecided. fact is, had the French wished to destroy INNSPRUCK is the capital of the Tyrol, such works of art, one man could have deand contains 14,000 inhabitants. Hotel faced the whole in five minutes. English d'Autriche the best-admirably managed guide-books make it a point to attribute for the last three years, since conducted all damage done to works of art to the Vanby M. T. Baer, on the banks of the River dalism of the French, and parrot sacrisInn, and nearly inclosed with mountains tans and guides repeat the story; so it is,

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