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MUNICH.

BAVARIA.

[GERMANY.]

Bavaria consists of two distinct divisions of territory, which cover an area of 29,628 square miles, and contains five millions of population. The larger division is bounded on the south and east by the German provinces of Austria; on the west by the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and the duchy of Baden; and on the north by the smaller German states. The smaller portion is to the westward of the Rhine, and bordering on the French frontier. It has a mean elevation of sixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, is two hundred miles long, and one hundred and fifty wide. greater portion of Bavaria is within the basin of the Danube, which crosses the country from west to east, and is watered by that river and its numerous affluents. The climate is in general temperate and salubrious.

The

Bavaria is particularly noted for the good quality of its beer, which is far superior to that of any other country; in fact, its flavor is entirely different; but you must drink it in Munich. The quantity drunk and brewed is incredible. Allowing twenty-five million gallons to be exported every year, the quantity brewed would leave seventeen gallons per annum to every man, woman, and child in the kingdom.

The population of Bavaria does not increase so rapidly as in other German provinces, principally owing to the law regulating marriages, which says that "no marriage between people without capital shall be allowed without the permission of the poor institutions." If any of the superintendents of the poor, whose duty it is to keep a careful watch on persons wishing to evade this law, should be derelict in their duty, they are answerable for the maintenance of the families arising from the union, should they not be able to maintain themselves. The law is unquestionably a good one to prevent improvident unions, but on the score of morality it is questionable, as in Munich half the births are illegitimate.

MUNICH.

Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is situated on the left bank of the River Isar, nearly 1700 feet above the level of the sea. It contains 176,088 inhabitants, including a garrison of 4000 soldiers. Its hotels (and they are equal, if not superior, to any in Germany) are Bayerischer Hof (Bavarian Hotel), Zu den Vier Jahreszeiten (The Four Seasons). The Bavarian is an immense establishment, situated on Promenaden Platz, one of the finest positions in the city. The rooms are all large, spacious, and cheap. American and English papers are kept in the readingroom; hot and cold baths in the house; servants speaking all languages; and, what is best, when you know you must remain at least a week in the city to "do" it well, having the director doing every thing in his power to make you comfortable. The house is under the able direction of M. Louis Waelzel. The Four Seasons is very finely situated in the Neu Maximilian Street, near the Place Max Joseph and the Theatre. This street is the fashionable promenade, and contains the finest houses in Munich, and perhaps in Germany. It was built at the express command of the King of Bavaria, and is now considered the first promenade in or around the city. This spacious hotel is entirely new, and furnished in the most fashionable style. The house has one peculiarity, and it would be well if all other houses in Europe would adopt the plan, viz.: Your bill, in detail, is sent to your room every night; not that you should pay it every day, but every day you can remember what you ordered during the day, and can correct the error at once, should there be one, which you might not be able to do at the end of the week; the amount is carried forward every day. If you do not care about items, you need only look at the last day's bill, which will give you the sum total. The dining saloons, coffee, billiard, and smoking rooms, are very elegant. M. August Schimon's heirs are the proprietors. The terms are very moderate.

621

two persons, 42 kr.; 1 hour, 1 fl. 12 kr.; 2 hours, 1 fl. 36 kr.

During the night there is an extra charge of 3 kr. for every quarter of an hour for the lanterns. After 10 o'clock the fare is double. It is not customary, nor is it expected in Munich, to give pour boire to the driver.

It is impossible to give the time at which the different sights of Munich may be visited, as it is continually being changed, but it is published in a daily paper, the Tagesanzeiger, to which we refer travelers. The four most important places, however, we can give, viz., Die Residenz, or Royal Palace, every day, at different times: a valet de place indispensable. The Pinacothek, or Picture-gallery, every day but Saturday, from 9 until 3 in summer, and from 9 in winter. The New Pinacothek is closed Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and the Glyptothek, or Sculpture-gallery,

Munich is considered, in proportion to its size, one of the finest cities of Europe; and, perhaps, with the exception of Florence and Madrid, shines conspicuously above all the others in regard to its extensive collections of works of art, principally brought together under the care of Ludwig I., late king of Bavaria, who, to the Dusseldorf Gallery, removed here by Max Joseph, and the Manheim collection, transferred to Munich by the Elector Palatine, added the galleries of Nuremberg, Bamberg, Augsburg, Wallenstein, and Boisserée. It is also rich in public buildings of various kinds, and has numerous gardens, squares, and monuments. In this last it shines most conspicuous: the genius of Schwanthaler, Stiglmayer, and Miller, as well as the great facilities for casting monuments in bronze, has been appre-open every Monday, Wednesday, and Friciated in many of the cities of Europe as well as America. In literature it also stands prominent, and its public library is, next to that of Paris, the largest in the world.

To see Munich thoroughly, and to save time, one should employ a valet de place. In fact, without one it is impossible to see the royal palace-at least the whole of it: a good and honest one may be found in George Haeckl, at the "Four Seasons."

Carriage-hire in Munich is very reasonable. There are two kinds of conveyances, the fiacre and droschken. The fiacres are carriages with two horses, and have seats for four persons. This class of carriage charges for one or two persons to and from the railroad dépôt, 15 kr. ; for three or four persons, 24 kr. A droschken, for one or two persons, to or from the dépôt, 12 kr. In the city or the suburbs, by the hour, the following is the tariff: hour, one or two persons, 15** kr.; three or four persons, 24 kr.hour, one or two persons, 36 kr.; three or four persons, 36 kr. hour, one or two persons, 36 kr.; three or four persons, 1 fl. 1 hour, one or two persons, 48 kr.; three or four persons, 1 fl. 12 kr. For every quarter of an hour 12 kr. additional. The droschken charges by the hour, or parts of hours, the following: hour, for one or two persons, 15 kr. ; hour, for one or two persons, 24 kr.; 1 hour, for one or

60 kreutzers=1 florin=40 c. U. S. cur.

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day. The Library and Statue of Bavaria may be visited every day.

The Residenz, or Royal Palace of Munich, is divided into three parts, the Alte Resi denz, or Old Residence; the Keonigsbau, or New Residence; and the Festsaalbas, or Salle des Fêtes. The Old Palace was finished in 1616 by Maximilian I.; and when the conqueror Gustavus Adolphus entered Munich, he above all admired this palace, and wished that he could remove it to Stockholm on wheels! The front of the palace has two handsome entrances, decorated with statues of Wisdom, Bravery, Justice, and Temperance, with four bronze lions bearing shields with the arms of Bavaria and Lorraine. In the centre niche stands the Virgin Mary, the patron saint of Bavaria. The Old Palace incloses four courts, viz., the Kaiserhof, Küchenhof, Capellenhof, and Brunnenhof. This last takes its name from a handsome bronze fountain, which is ornamented with mytho logical divinities-Vulcan, Neptune, Juno, and Ceres-which represent the four ele ments, with groups of Tritons and aquatic animals. A bronze statue of Otho de Wittelsbach, the founder of the present house of Bavaria, armed cap-à-pie, stands on a marble pedestal on the heads of rams. Under the arch through which you pass in going from the Brunnenhof to the Capellenhof, notice a large black stone fastened

blue; the walls of Florentine mosaic; the floor of amethyst, jasper, and marble. The high altar is of solid silver, also the side altars. In ebony caskets are contained any quantity of saintly relics, such as heads, hands, and toes. A Descent from the Cross, in bas-relief, by Michael Angelo; a small portable altar, highly enameled, formerly in possession of Mary Queen of Scots, which she used during her cap tivity, and which she carried to the scaffold. One of her attendants brought it to Pope Leon XI., who presented it to Maximilian I., elector of Bavaria.

y a chain, and three large spikes driven | Annunciation, placed above the entrance, into the wall at different heights. This is by Peter Candid. The roof is gold and stone and these nails are monuments of the strength and agility of the Duke Christopher, son of Albert III., and other Bavarian princes, as the description in verse on the wall testifies. This immense stone, weighing 364 pounds, the duke took up and hurled to a great distance. The upper nail marks the spot where his heel struck in leaping from the ground (12 feet); the second nail, 9 feet, marks the spot touched by Prince Conrad; and the third by Prince Philippe. This occurred in the year 1490. What degenerate jumpers we are nowadays! We now arrive at Grottenhof, or Grotto Court, which was formerly used as a summer garden, and was ornamented with tropical plants and water-works. Notice in the centre of the garden a bronze statue of Perseus, with the head of Medusa.

After visiting the Antiquarium, which contains a fine collection of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and German antiquities, we pass into the Schatzkammer, or Treasury. Notice the genealogical tree, and the portraits of the princes and princesses of the house of Wittelsbach. This collection of royal jewels was commenced by the Duke Albert V., and enriched by his successors. It is, by the laws of the state, unalienable. It embraces an incredible amount of valuables and precious stones. Among the diamonds is the great blue brilliant in the ornament of the order of the golden fleece; the Palatine pearl, half white and half black; the crowns of the Emperor Henry the Saint and his Empress Kunigunda; that of the Elector Frederick V., king of Bohemia, captured at the battle of Prague in 1620; that of Maximilian Joseph, and of his queen Caroline; complete toilet sets of the Empress Amelie in enamel, and of the Empress Josephine in lapis-lazuli. Notice the equestrian statue of St. George and the Dragon; also, on the table in the centre of the saloon, a copy of the Emperor Trajan's monument at Rome. It was ordered by the Elector Charles Theodore, and took twenty years of Valadier's life to finish it.

The Rich Chapel (Reiche Capelle) was dedicated to the Virgin in 1607, by Maximilian I., and is most rich in ornaments, relics, treasures, and precious stones. The

The Kaiserzimmer, or the apartments of Charles VII., are well worth a visit, to show in what luxury the ancient rulers of Bavaria lived. These rooms consist of a reception saloon, dining saloon, throne room, bedroom, cabinet of mirrors, and cabinet of miniatures. They also contain some very fine pictures, and were selected by Napoleon for his private use when here. In the chambre à coucher examine with care the curtains and coverings of the bed, worked with gold; they cost 800,000 florins, and forty persons were steadily employed fifteen years in embroidering them! The bed stands inside a small inclosure. Bonaparte, while here, did not sleep on the bed, but used his camp-bed, which was set up for him alongside the royal couch, and inside the inclosure. There are several other chambers connected with this suite which are not shown. The throne-room is now used by the young princes for a billiard saloon, and the room adjoining (not shown) for a bowling saloon. This suite of rooms is entirely ignored by all the Eu ropean guide-books, for what reason we can not understand. We think them the most interesting rooms in the palace.

The Festsaalbau, or Salle des Fêtes, fronts on the Hofgarten, and is that part of the palace used for the state apartments and for all court festivities. Its front is 800 feet long, was erected between the years 1832 and 1842, in the Palladian style, after the designs of L. von Klenze, and is one of the most magnificent works of the present day. It is to be seen between the hours of 3 and 4 P.M. Visitors generally assemble for this purpose over the state apothecary's apartments, and are all taken

At the left of the vestibule, as you enter, are the Odysseus-Säle, six rooms devoted to representations and scenes from the Odyssey of Homer. They are painted by Hiltensberger in encaustic, after designs by Schwanthaler. Each of the six rooms contains four poems, in eight pictures. One of the best is in the first room, where the assemblage of the gods decide that Ulysses must leave the island of Calypso, and return to his native land,

through the different rooms by the custo- | prise fourteen splendid battle-scenes, paintdian at the same time. The fee is 24 kr. ed by different leading artists, representeach party. ing the principal valiant deeds of the Bavarian army between the years 1805 and 1815. After repassing the Salles des Beautés and de Bal, we enter into three saloons dedicated to the three great epochs in the history of Germany during the Middle Ages. These rooms separate the Salle de Bal from the Salle du Trône. The paintings are from designs of J. de Schnorr. The first is the Saloon of Charlemagne, comprising six large and twelve small pictures, illustrating scenes in his life. The six principal are, 1. Charlemagne as a boy, anointed king of the Franks, in 754, by Pope Stephen II., in presence of his father Pepin; 2. His victory over Desiderius at Pavia; 3. His victory over the Saxons; 4. Propagating Christianity among the vanquished; 5. The Council of Frankfort-onMain; 6. He is crowned emperor at Rome by Pope Leo III. The twelve smaller pictures represent the events that would naturally take place between the incidents detailed in the large pictures.

The magnificent double marble stairway, which is reserved for fetes and court solemnities, conducts you to the state apartments on the first floor (second story). Travelers, however, are conducted through an antechamber into the Ballroom, which is 130 feet long by 40 wide. The walls are decorated by figures of dancers in relief, by Schwanthaler. We now pass into two saloons which are called Saloons of Beauty. They are adorned with 37 portraits of the handsomest females who have lived, or still live in Munich. They were taken by Jos. Stieler, court painter, by order of the king. The different personages have occupied different social positions, from the queen on the throne to the daughter of a bourgeoise of Munich. This collection is unique of its kind, as thirty-six such beautiful women were never before seen at one time, and they are all likenesses. Lola Montez, lately dead, was one of the thirty-six; but her likeness has lately been removed to the new Pinacothek, where, for an extra fee, it may be seen. The royal family were compelled to remove it on account of frequent scurrilous verses written by Bavarian students on the subject. The two gems of the collection, in our opinion, are No. 10, the Countess Iréne, of Arco-Stepperg, born Marquise of Pallavicini, and No. 32, Guillemetti Sulzer, actress of the court theatre. For the first time these beautiful portraits have been photographed by a firm that has the exclusive privilege in Munich, and are bound in book form, under the title of "Collection of Beauties"-"Galerie de Trente-six Portraits de Femme," created by the order of his majesty, Louis I., of Bavaria. They may be purchased at the Wimmer Collection."

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The Hall of Banquets, or of Battles, com

Saloon of Frederick Barbarossa.---There are six large pictures and several small frescoes. The larger are generally by J. de Schnorr. 1. Frederick Hohenstaufen (Barbarossa) elected Emperor of Germany; 2. His entrance into Milan as conqueror; 3. He concludes a treaty of peace at Venice with Pope Alexander III.; 4. He gives a grand public festival at Mayence in 1185; 5. The battle of Inconium; 6. His death in the river near Seleucia.

Saloon of Rudolph of Hapsburg, founder of the present house of Austria. The four principal pictures represent, 1. Rudolph gives his horse to a priest for the purpose of carrying some water to administer the Holy Sacrament to a dying person; 2. He learns that he is elected Emperor of Germany; 3. He defeats Ottocar, king of Bohemia, who refused to recognize his election; 4. He destroys the castles of the robber knights and establishes public peace. Notice the frieze in this saloon: it was executed by Schnorr. This suite of rooms has a suitable termination in the Salle du Trône, or throne-room, which is considered the very perfection of architectural beauty, and richness and delicacy of ornament. The decorations are gold on a white ground. The gallery is supported by twenty Co

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