tains the tomb of the celebrated Charles be seen an immense vase of porphyry nine The Church of St. James, of Adolphus Frederick, St. Katrine, and the Admiralty church, are the next in importance. The Riddarhus, or Hall of the Diet for the assembly of the nobles, was built in the time of Christina: its walls are hung with the armorial bearings of the principal Swedish families, about 3000 in number, The president's chair, which is at the upper end of the hall, is a fine specimen of carving in ebony and ivory. The nobles' seats are arranged on the right, the clergy's on the left, and the town and county deputies in the front. The principal statues in Stockholm are Gustavus I., situated in front of the Riddarhus it is of bronze, and stands on a marble pedestal. He was born 1496, died 1560. The equestrian statue of Gustavus Adolphus, surnamed the Great, and grandson of the former, stands in the square in front of the Theatre Royal. In the square Charles XIII. stands a splendid statue of Charles XIII. There are also statues of Charles XII., XI., and X. in different parts of the city. In Gustavus Adolphus Square stands the Royal Theatre, erected by Gustavus III., who was assassinated here at a masquerade ball by a Swedish officer named Ankarstroem in 1792. Here Jenny Lind made her débût, and acquired her worldwide popularity. She is as much adored by the natives of Stockholm as Thorwaldsen is by the citizens of Copenhagen. After her return from London, where she had gained unprecedented honors, she devoted the proceeds of her whole season at this theatre to the founding a school for the gratuitous musical education of the poor. Travelers should by all means visit the zoological gardens, which are very beautifully arranged. The principal attraction in the suburbs is the Deer Park, with its lovely villas, drives, cafés, and places of amusement. In it is situated the king's palace of Rosendal, which contains some very splendid At one side of the palace may The villa Bystrom, a lovely spot, is also situated in this park. A small fee is expected from visitors. Bremner, speaking of this park, says: "It is, without exception, the finest public park in Europe. The rugged peninsula, of which it occupies the greater part, is so finely varied with rocks and trees, that Art, which must do every thing in the parks of other great capitals, has here only not to injure Nature. The margin of the peninsula is covered with old-fashioned eating-houses, etc. Within this confused circle runs the beautiful carriage-drive, lined with modern villas of classical design, Swiss cottages, Italian verandas, etc. Among these are placed coffee-houses, equestrian theatres, and dancing-rooms, while the space between them and the road is occupied with flower-pots and shrubberies, through which rustic seats In this park is the bust of are scattered. Bellman, a lyric poet of great excellence in the time of Gustavus III. The anniversary of the poet's birth is kept with great rejoicings by all classes, but especially the Bacchanalian Club, whose members, headed by the king himself, come out in festive array to parade round his bust, which is very appropriately decorated with grapes and vine-leaves." The Haga Park, as well as the Park of Carlberg, are charming places of resort. A valet de place had better be engaged a few days after your arrival. The usual fare is about $1 per day. We wish gentlemen travelers to understand that it is a great breach of good manners to enter even a candy-shop in Stockholm without taking off your hat. Be particular in having your passport viséd by the Russian minister before the time for sailing for St. Petersburg, else you can not procure a ticket. The costumes of Stockholm are very picturesque, more especially of the Dalecarlian women, who possess a monopoly of the ferry-boats. The Swedish ladies are unquestionably the most beautiful of the north of Europe. There are lines of steamers running north as far as Tornea, in Lapland, if the 667 traveler has a desire to visit those hyper-reach Lake Wenner, which is 94 miles long, 'oorean regions. being the largest body of fresh water in Europe after Lakes Ladoga and Onega in Russia. It is 147 feet above the level of the ocean. We now take the Götha River, and soon reach the celebrated A very pleasant excursion by canal, requiring two days, is to visit the city of Upsala, 45 miles N.W. of Stockholm. This is one of the finest of old "finished" cities. Hotels, Stads Nya, de la Poste. Its quiet dignity is never disturbed by the irreverent rattle of business. Its University has a library of 100,000 volumes, comprising many very rare and valuable works. A copy of the Four Evangelists, with silver letters on parchment, of the 5th century, is a spoil of war of the great Gus-led channel, by the fall of Pollhem, where tavus Adolphus. A fine old cathedral is here, and a botanic garden, which was founded by Linnæus. Falls of Trollhätta.-This is one of the finest cataracts in Europe, and, in regard to the volume of water, it is only exceeded by that of Schaffhausen, The whole series of falls is extremely beautiful, from the upper rapids, where the boiling river forces its way along its narrow and troub it takes a bold plunge of 70 feet, by the lower fall, where an island divides the rushing waters on the verge, only to have Gamla Upsala, 3 miles off, contains the its base swept by the reunited stream, to immense mounds which mark the burial- the island of Toppo, where you stand enplaces of Odin, Thor, and Freya, the gen- veloped in a maze of dashing waters till tlemen and lady after whom we call Wed-you half fear you will be swept down their nesday, Thursday, and Friday. resistless flood. There is a decent hotel here, and, if you have time, it is well worth your while to remain a day or two. Returning to Stockholm, we pass the Castle of Skokloster, built by the celebrated Marshal Wrangel. A well-served line of steamers runs by the lakes and canal to Gottenburg [Götheborg]. Time, 50 to 60 hours; fare about $10. Leaving Stockholm, we steam along among the 1300 islands of Lake Maelar to its most southern extremity. We then pass through the canal, and, going through an enormously deep cut, enter the Baltic. Skirting the main land, the omnipresent islands act as a breakwater. We soon see the fine ruin of Stegeborg, the spot whence Eric Stenbock ran away with Malin Sture in the heroic age of Swedish history. At Söderkoping we re-enter the canal, and, passing through a country of the greatest beauty, our route lays along and through Lakes Roxen and Boren. Mounting 75 feet by seven sluices, the masonry of which is worthy of all admiration, we at length enter Lake Wetter. The passage of these locks gives us ample time to visit the villages and make agreeable pedestrian excursions. If the wind is fair, we now hoist our foremast and make sail; if not, the steam must do the work alone. Lake Wetter is 80 miles long, and is 295 feet above the sea level, being the summit level of the canal. All the cities on these interior lakes, by this canal, enjoy communication with the rest of the kingdom. Crossing the country and descending, we By means of 12 sluices, in a canal 3 miles long, the steamer takes you down to the lower level of the Götha, which now flows on its even course in a narrow valley between low hills of granite, wooded to the summit, and in a few hours we arrive at the city of Gottenburg [Gotheborg]. Hotel, Götha Kelläre. There are some other hotels here-none very good. This is a handsome, well-built city, with a thorough business-like air. Population 55,046. It is divided into an upper and lower town, the latter containing many canals and docks, and the business localities. There is a very fine exchange here; also an arsenal, and, of course-for in these climes, where Nature is chary of her favors, they are more prized than where she is more liberal-an admirable botanic garden, with music playing every afternoon. An immense amount of business centres in this lively port, which monopolizes almost entirely the foreign commerce of Sweden. A pretty excursion here is by rail to Johnsered, on Lake Aspen, some 9 miles. Steamers for Christiania leave two or three times a week. Christiania, the capital of Norway, contains a population of 64,774 inhabitants. Principal hotels, Du Nord and Scandina via; fare low. Christiania is a well-built and thriving city, and has numerous pub-king, and the issue of that marriage was lic structures, among which are a palace and a suite of fine buildings for a University. Christiania is the chief seat of the foreign trade of Norway, and possesses a considerable quantity of shipping. It contains a national gallery and museum of northern antiquities. At an eminence on the borders of the town stands the castle of Aggerhaus, built during the early portion of the 14th century; it is strongly fortified, and has withstood numerous sieges. Hamlet. Hamlet's father was subsequently murdered by his brother, who married the widow, and succeeded to the government of the whole of Jutland. As a pagan, it was Hamlet's first duty to avenge his father. The better to conceal his purpose, he feigned madness. His uncle, suspecting it to be feigned, sent him to England with a request to the king that he would put Hamlet to death. He was accompanied by two creatures of his uncle, North Cape. - Those who wish to see whose letter to the English king was the sun at midnight from the North Cape carved upon wood, according to the custom had better start from Scotland to Bergen; of the period. This Hamlet, during the thence by steamer to Hammerfest, the voyage, contrived to get possession of, and northernmost port in Europe; thence in so altered the characters as to make it a a one-horse wagon of the country to the request that his two companions should be Cape. There is no great difficulty in the slain, and which was accordingly done on journey. You sleep in the huts of the their arrival in England. He afterward Lapps, and may see their reindeer. As married the daughter of the English king; but, subsequently returning to Jutland, and still feigning madness, contrived to surprise and slay his uncle after upbraiding him with his various crimes. Hamlet then became governor of Jutland, married a second time to a queen of Scotland, and was eventually killed in battle. The whole history of Hamlet is carefully and you must be at the Cape by or very near the 21st of June, from the earliness of the season you are apt to meet snow. There are always a good many English on the way to do this little bit." It is not expensive, and the chief objection arises from the entire absence of night. Leaving Gottenburg by steamer for Copenhagen, it will save time for the trav-minutely detailed, but these are the leadeler to stop at Elsinore, which he can always do if the weather is not too heavy. Elsinore contains 9000 inhabitants. Hotel, d'Eresund. All vessels entering the Sound anchor for the night. The principal objects of attraction are the Cathedral, which contains some fine monuments, and the Kronberg Castle, both of which are well worth a visit. The British fleet forced this passage in 1801, previous to the bombardment of Copenhagen. "Any heap of stones with Runic inscriptions upon them, and said to denote 'Hamlet's grave,' will be in vain searched for here, even if they ever existed. In fact. Hamlet's identification with this enchanting spot is at best but a Shaksperian fiction. Hamlet's country was not Zealand, but Jutland. Here the name was pronounced Amlet, signifying madman. According to the Danish historian of old, Saxo Grammaticus, Hamlet was not the son of a Danish king, but of a famous pirate chief, who was governor of Jutland in conjunction with his brother. Hamlet's father married the daughter of the Danish ing historical features upon which Shakspeare founded his beautiful tragedy; and, rude and disgusting as many of the incidents in Hamlet's life were, the mode in which Shakspeare has treated them is one of the greatest proofs of his splendid genius."-Murray's Hand-book. Close by here is Marien-Lyst, a beautiful pleasure-ground and bathing-place, much frequented by the better classes of Danes and Swedes. Better stop here overnight than in the town, visiting the Kursaal and Castle of Kronberg. Take the cars for Copenhagen, stopping at Helliod Station to visit Fredericksburg, the famous castle of Christian IV. Permits to see the grounds may be obtained at the porter's lodge. Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, stands upon the east coast of Zealand. It contains about 180,866 inhabitants. The principal hotel is the Royal. The city is inclosed within a line of fortifications, now used as a promenade. Toward the sea it exhibits an extensive assemblage of batteries, docks, stores, and arsenals. The eastern portion of the har The other churches of Copenhagen are not of much importance. bor is protected by the castle of Fredericks- | by Thorwaldsen; the latter is in the sachavn, which is regarded as impregnable. risty. Part of the city is built on the small island of Amak, the channel between the main land and the island forming the port. The city is distinguished by the great number of its palaces and public buildings of various kinds, and extensive collections of works of art. Of the royal residences the palaces of Rosenberg, Amalienborg, and Christiansborg are the most celebrated. The first is surrounded by extensive gardens, which are open to the public, and the last contains the royal library, one of the best in Europe, containing, exclusive of MSS., nearly 500,000 volumes, and is particularly rich in the literature of the northern nations. Several of the residences of the former sovereigns of Denmark are now used as picture-galleries, libraries, and museums. umes. Thorwaldsen's Museum, built by subscription, to contain casts of all his works, and many originals. Thorwaldsen was a favored child of Genius and Perseverance. From the time his fame was established in Rome by the production of his "Jason," up to the day of his death, he basked in the sunshine of prosperity. President of the Academy of Arts, decorated with the orders of different European sovereigns, apartments appropriated to his use at the residence of the ruler of his country, and dying at a ripe old age, possessed not only of an ample fortune, but of the affections of the entire kingdom. Thorwaldsen was the son of a ship-carpenter from Iceland; was born in 1770, at Copenhagen. At an early age he acquired a passion for drawing, which soon led him to Rome, when he became a pupil of the great Canova. After some years he took a studio, but the stranger remained a long time unnoticed. He was about leaving for Co The educational, scientific, and literary establishments of Copenhagen rank with the first of their class in Europe. In addition to the library belonging to the palace of Christiansborg, there is the Clossen library, bequeathed to the public by a gentleman of that name, and also the Univer-penhagen, when his statue of "Jason” atsity library, containing over 100,000 vol- tracted the notice of an Englishman, after which time fortune began to shine, and orThe principal objects of attraction are, ders poured in upon him faster than he first, the cathedral church of Nôtre Dume, could execute them. He established himwhich was nearly destroyed during the self in the Holy City, and did not permabombardment by the English in 1807. It nently return to Copenhagen until six is ornamented almost exclusively by the years before his death. The statues which works of Copenhagen's universal favor- he presented to the cathedral church of ite, Thorwaldsen, pupil of Canova, a man his native city were executed in Rome. whose name is mentioned with the highest He died one evening while at the theatre, veneration and deepest respect by every in 1844, in the 74th year of his age. The inhabitant of Denmark. In an alcove at whole number of Thorwaldsen's works in your right, as you enter, may be seen his this museum is about 300. Some of the coffin, which was followed to this church upper rooms are devoted to a small muby the king and royal family, and all the seum of coins, sculptures, pictures, and high officials of the government. On each bronzes which he collected at Rome. In side of the church stand six of the twelve one room is arranged all the furniture of apostles, while in a niche behind the altar his sitting-room, also a bust of Martin Lumay be seen the colossal figure of Christ, ther, commenced the day of his death. all by Thorwaldsen. The font is, how- The museum is built in the form of a parever, the gem of the church, and shows allelogram, in the centre of which is a the genius of the master. His favorite mausoleum for the resting-place of the pupil's child (Bissen) was the first chris- great artist's remains. In addition to the tened at it, the artist acting as sponsor. statues, casts, and other works of art preThe whole of the royal family were pres-sented by Thorwaldsen to this museum, ent on the occasion. All the bas-reliefs he also bequeathed $60,000 to be approin the church, including "The Baptism priated to the purchase of works of art by of Christ," and "The Last Supper," are Danish masters. "Hector and Priam" is taken from the Turkish admiral by Admiral Cort Adeler (by whom he was killed) in 1654, and afterward worn by the Danish kings. In the Storm Gade the Museum of Natural History is situated. considered the gem of the gallery. Among | and Japan, and innumerable trophies from his collection of paintings is a portrait taken Turkey. Among the last is a cimeter by Horace Vernet in Thorwaldsen's 65th year, bearing the following inscription, in French: "Horace Vernet to his illustrious friend Thorwaldsen, Rome, 1835." Thorwaldsen's works are reproduced in biscuit china on a reduced size, in the factory of Messrs. Bing & Gröndahl. These copies are sold in the establishment of Messrs. H. J. Bing & Son, corner of Pilestrade and Kronprindsensgade, and travelers wishing to procure correct specimens will act wisely in going directly to the dépôt of the fac-ifice. tory, as the poorer specimens are sold in numerous shops in Copenhagen, while every article sold by Messrs. H. J. Bing & Son is warranted to be perfect. Photographs of Thorwaldsen's works and of the city and environs are also kept here, and nearly all foreigners coming to Copenhagen visit this establishment. The castle of Rosenberg, with its surrounding gardens, is a very interesting spot. It was erected in the early part of the 17th century by Christian IV. It is now occupied as a museum, containing national and historical relics. The collection consists of antiques ancient armor, objects of art, the crown jewels, the thrones used by the former kings and queens of Denmark-some of them of solid silverthe fonts in which the royal children were baptized, the drinking-horn of Christian I. and the sword of Christian II., and a set of horse equipments presented by Christian IV. to his eldest son on his wedding day; cost, in Paris, $200,000. In the gallery of casts, in the same museum, is Thorwaldsen's "Dancing Nymph." This piece was originally executed for Prince Metternich. Fee for a party, 90 cents. The Royal Museum, situated in the Dronningens Tvergade, contains a fine collection of Grecian and Roman antiquities, the weapons used in warfare previous to the 11th century, relics connected with the worship of the Roman Catholic Church in ancient times, and the armor and weapons of the Middle Ages, with relics from China FF The palace of Christiansborg, the residence of the king, is of immense extent. It was erected in 1795, the old one having been destroyed by fire. It requires a fee of 90 cents to take a party through this edHere again, in all directions, the genius of the immortal Thorwaldsen is visible. Most conspicuous are the groups over the grand entrance, and the triumphal march of Alexander into Babylon, which is in the grand entrance hall. This palace contains the picture-gallery, which does not compare favorably with galleries in similar cities, nor is it in keeping with the other works of art in Copenhagen. There are also seven rooms rich in Northern antiquities of all descriptions. The royal library, stables, and riding-schools, as also the arsenal, are all connected with this palace. The chapel of the palace is well worth a visit. It is ornamented with bassi-relievi by Thorwaldsen and his pupil Bissen. The Theatres are three in number-at least three represent the different classes. That adjoining the Charlottenborg palace, under the management of the government, for opera and ballet; the Theatre Hof, occupied by the Italian Opera Company during the winter months; and the Moerskabs Theatre, where the masses congregate to witness pantomime, etc. The Tivoli Gardens, in the suburbs, are the fashionable resort on summer evenings. The museums and objects of interest are so numerous that it is important to know the days they can be seen. The crown jewels are only shown to those having a special permit. Engage, if possible, a guide called Joseph; he is highly recommended. From Copenhagen, the steamer to Lubeck should be taken in preference to any other route to Hamburg. 671 |