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In 1760 it came into possession of the En-Iron founderies, machine-shops, steam sawglish, and remained under their govern- mills, planing-mills, and huge elevators, ment until the Revolution, but was again were every where to be seen, while its surrendered to the British in 1812 by Gen- market for grain, beef, and pork was the eral Hull, and again taken by the Amer- largest in the world. icans a year later. Ascend to the top of the dome of the State House, and obtain a charming view. The principal public buildings are on Jefferson and Woodward Streets, and they are quite numerous. There are several lines of railways diverging from Detroit. The principal and most direct to Chicago and the West is the Michigan Central, 284 miles in length. There is also the Detroit, Munroe, and Toledo, 62 miles in length, and connecting with the Michigan Southern at Munroe, the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, and the Port Huron Road, which connects Lake Huron with the valley of the Ohio River. The line of steamers from Cleveland to Lake Superior touch here, sailing direct to the Falls of St. Marie and other important points on Lake Superior. These are all fine boats, and are filled with tourists every trip during the season.

Standing as Chicago did on the southern border of one of the five great lakes, affording five thousand miles of inland navigation, connected by rail with New York, Boston, Montreal, Quebec, New Orleans, Mobile, Savannah, and Charleston, and soon to be with the Pacific Ocean, what inland city could compete with her? If going to St. Louis from Chicago, take the Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis. By no means take the Illinois Central; the scenery is most uninteresting on that route, the cars very uncomfortable, and the management indifferent enough. If going to Cincinnati, take the Cincinnati and Chicago Airline. There are numerous steamers leaving Chicago weekly for Lake Superior.

If going by the Mississippi to St. Paul, continue on to Milwaukee, a distance of 85 miles, by the Chicago and Milwaukee, a finely-managed railway; then by the Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien Railway to Prairie du Chien, in about 11 hours. The sleeping-cars on this line are very comfortable, although we would advise stopping one day at Madison, through which we pass.

Passing over the Michigan Southern road, in about twelve hours we arrive at what was the "Garden City" of the West, Starting from Chicago by steamer for but which, on October 8th, 1871, was almost Lake Superior, and passing several imentirely swept from the surface of the earth portant places, we arrive at the "Ocean by that fell destroyer, fire. Chicago was City," or Milwaukee, which is finely situfinely situated on the southwestern shore ated on both sides the Milwaukee River. of Lake Michigan, being, of course, the It contains about 71,000 inhabitants. The principal city of the State of Illinois. Its Newhall House is the principal hotel. The history and growth was most remarkable. population is fast increasing, and the city In 1829, when it was first laid out, a soli- is destined to become one of the most poptary log tavern sufficed to supply the wants ulous in the country. Its principal buildof the few inhabitants. Wolves outnum-ings are the Custom-house, Post-office, bered the white men, and the wigwam of Land-office, and University Institute. The the painted savage dotted the prairie on every side. In 1840 the population was less than 5000; two years later it exceeded 28,000. In 1854 it amounted to 75,000; and at the moment of its destruction its population was 298,987. Extending as it did between five and six miles from north to south, mammoth hotels, spacious stores, fine ecclesiastical buildings, large public buildings, beautiful residences, met the eye on every side. The manufacturing establishments of Chicago were very numerous.

stores are large and elegant, and the pri vate residences, which are mostly in the suburbs, magnificent. The principal exports are lumber and agricultural products. After passing through the Straits of Mackinac and Falls of St. Mary, we emerge into Lake Superior.

The island of Mackinac, which lies in the strait, contains many interesting sights to the traveler. In addition to the fortress, which is picturesquely situated on its highest part, we have the promontory called the

"Lover's Leap," so named from a young Indian girl, whose lover was slain in battle, leaping from its summit when the fatal truth was revealed to her. There is also "Robinson's Folly," the "Sugar - loaf," and "Arched Rock," all of which have interesting stories connected with them; but the great beauty of the island is its charming natural scenery.

Saut Ste. Marie is a small village beautifully situated on the American side of St. Mary's River. It takes its name from the Rapids, which have here a descent of 20 feet to the mile. The former difficulty of making their ascent is obviated by a canal recently constructed on the American side. Steamers of the largest class now pass through the locks into Lake Superior. The fishing at the falls is very fine, and good accommodations will be found at the Chippewa House, which is always well filled during the season, and those fond of trout fishing may enjoy the sport in every direction from this point.

From the Saut Ste. Marie to Bayfield, at the head of the lake, where we take stage for St. Paul, is nearly 500 miles. Most tourists, however, return in the same steamer, making the circuit of the lake; time, six, seven, and eight days, according to the length of stoppage. A little over 100 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie we pass the celebrated Pictured Rocks, a range of cliffs extending along the shore for a distance of five miles, and rising vertically from the water to a height of 200 feet. The action of the surf has not only excavated and worn away their bases, but has covered their surface with bands of brilliant coloring. The French gave them the name of "Les Portails," from their arched appearance, which in some portions resemble gateways. Travelers wishing to see the Pictured Rocks in detail should land at Grand Island, and take a small boat and guide, with plenty of provisions.

The different iron and copper mines should be visited, if the traveler has time. The principal copper mines of Michigan are situated on a promontory 250 miles from Saut Ste. Marie, and should by all means be visited. The best point to stop is at Copper Harbor. About half a mile from the landing there is a very good hotel. There are some fifty different mining companies organized and in active operation

on both sides of the lake. There are also some very productive mines in the vicinity of Ontonagon, some 65 miles above Copper Harbor. Bayfield is the capital of La Pointe County, Wisconsin. It is situated about 80 miles east of the extreme western terminus of the lake. It has a capital harbor, and must eventually be a place of very great importance, being in the direct route to St. Paul. The Hudson and Bayfield Railroad will connect the Mississippi with the lake, running from this point to St. Paul, a distance of 160 miles. In the mean time a stage makes the distance in two days; fare about $10.

The Indian Agency is situated at Bayfield, and crowds of travelers flock there every August to see the annuities paid to the Indians. The trout fishing in the vicinity is glorious.

After spending a few days at St. Paul for the purpose of visiting the Falls of St. Anthony and the Falls of Minne-ha-ha, take the steamer for St. Louis. This trip down the Mississippi will be found particularly interesting, as no river on which we have ever sailed can surpass its lovely scenery-that is, the scenery of the upper Mississippi. Although there are a great many beautiful towns and "cities" (the towns are all cities there), they contain nothing of sufficient importance to detain the traveler.

St. Louis is finely situated on the right bank of the Mississippi, 20 miles below the junction of the Missouri. It is the largest city in the State of Missouri, and the great commercial emporium of the West. Principal hotels, the Southern, the Lindel, and Planters'. St. Louis is distant from New Orleans nearly 1200 miles, and 175 above Cairo, at the junction of the Ohio. The principal buildings are the City Hall, Court-house, Custom-house, Cathedral, and Arsenal. The city is now the chief dépôt of the American Fur Company; indeed, it was originally settled in 1764 by trappers from the West. Its name was given by Laclede in honor of Louis XV. of France. A day or two may well be spent here to study character, thousands of adventurers arriving and departing daily; in fact, it is the line where civilization and luxury begins and ends. Since the

great Pacific Railroad has been finished,

The benevolent and educational instituSt. Louis has become a place of still more tions of the city are abundant.

importance.

mile.

One of the finest suspension bridges in From St. Louis to the Mammoth Cave, the world crosses the Ohio at Cincinnati; in Kentucky, take the Ohio and Mississippi the entire span is nearly one third of a Railroad (a fine road and admirably managed) to Louisville; then by the Louisville The "Queen City of the West" is rich and Nashville road, a distance of 75 miles, in beautiful public buildings: the principal to Bell's Hotel, which is 9 miles distant are the Post-office and Custom-house buildfrom the portals of this wonder of the ing. The Observatory (situated on Mount world, and over which the traveler is tak- Adams, from the summit of which a deen by stage. There is a hotel quite near lightful prospect of the surrounding counthe entrance, called the Cave Hotel. try may be had), the Merchants' Exchange, Masonic Hall, Ohio Medical College, and

Between Bell's Hotel and the Mammoth Cave there has been another recently dis-St. Peter's Cathedral, should all be visited. covered, called Diamond Cave, but little less in interest to the Mammoth. The avenues and galleries of the Mammoth Cave are miles in extent, and require days to "do" them properly. The excursion through the whole extent (nearly nine miles) is tiresome, but will repay the effort. There are numerous small books published which give a detailed description of this justly-called Mammoth Cave, which we recommend the traveler to purchase. When passing through Louisville, stop at the Galt House, one of the best hotels in the country.

When returning, if the traveler wishes to go to Baltimore, take the steamer from Louisville to Wheeling, the western terminus of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and thence by rail to Baltimore, or by rail via Cincinnati, Zanesville, and Wheeling; or if to Philadelphia, via Cincinnati, Zanesville, and Pittsburg.

A day or two had better be spent in Cincinnati, which is beautifully situated on the north bank of the Ohio River. Its progress toward its present high position has been most wonderful and rapid. In 1800 it was a village of 750 souls; exactly half a century later its population numbered 160,000, and to-day (1872) it is not less than 260,000. Its trade is perfectly immense, being the entrepôt for receiving and distributing the supplies of a rich and extended territory. It is nearly surrounded by hills, from which an extensive view of the city and the surrounding country may be had. These bills are embellished with beautiful houses, villas, and vineyards. The hotels of Cincinnati are numerous and good, and the style of living denotes the greatest amount of domestic comfort.

After continuing our route from Niagara to Montreal, Quebec, etc., we will describe Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington.

Returning to Niagara Falls, we take the cars thence to Lewiston, which is connected with Queenston by a suspension bridge which crosses the Niagara River. The heights above Queenston were the scene of the engagement of 1812, in which General Brock, who commanded the English forces, fell. A monument erected to his memory was destroyed during the Canadian rebellion of 1838, but it has been replaced by another still more beautiful: it is 126 feet high, and occupies a most prominent position, seen from every direction. From Lewiston to Toronto boats run daily, or you can take the cars cia Hamilton. The Canadian side is considered by some the most interesting, which is questionable. The Royal Mail Steamship Company have six boats, which run from Toronto to Montreal in about 40 hours, and one making excursions to the Saguenay River weekly. The American line boats also run from Lewiston to Montreal, stopping at Toronto, Kingston, Ogdensburg, Oswego, and other points. This is called the American Express Line, or Ontario Steam-boat Company. The boats are the Bay State, Ontario, and Cataract, on the lakes, and the Montreal and Alexandra on the river. This line of steamers is replete with all the comforts required by

by Fort Henry and four martello towers. Its principal buildings are the University of Queen's College, the Roman Catholic College, and the Penitentiary. At the other end of the Rideau Canal is the city of Ottawa, which is the capital of the province.

travelers, and combines the elegance of a 17,000. It is fortified on the eastern side first-class hotel with the rapidity of railroad conveyance. They are commanded and officered by men of experience, while the route offers to the business-man and pleasure-seeker attractions afforded by no other line, passing the far-famed Thousand Islands by daylight, at a time the most favorable for the grandeur of the scenery and the comfort of the passengers. Through tickets by this line can be purchased at all points on the line, or on board the steam

ers.

Passing the town of Hamilton, we arrive at Toronto, the principal city of Canada West. This city stands on the northern shore of Lake Ontario, possesses an excellent harbor, and is one of the most prosperous and flourishing cities of Canada. Queen's Hotel is the best. The city was burned by our forces during the war of 1812, and when rebuilt, its name, which before was Little York, was changed to Toronto, which signifies, in the original Indian tongue, a "place of meeting." The principal building of Toronto is the University, the finest edifice in the province. It was finished about five years ago. It forms three sides of a square, each wing being nearly 400 feet in length. It is built in the Elizabethan style, and contains a fine muscum of natural history. Osgood Hall is another very beautiful building: it contains the different courts of justice. The interior is most magnificently finished in French stone stairs and columns, English tiling, stained glass windows, and frescoes, while numerous full-length portraits of the leading judges, by the best artists, decorate the walls. The hall, containing an excellent law library, is most exquisitely finished in native wood. The College Avenue and Queen's Park are very beautiful. At the Flag Station are mounted two fine cannon, weighing five tons each, taken from the Russians-the one at Sevastopol, the other at Inkerman.

Toward the lower end of Lake Ontario we pass Kingston, for a brief period the seat of government of Lower Canada. Although its position, at the entrance of the Rideau Canal, which unites the Ottawa with the lake, is a good one, the withdrawing of the scat of government has rather thrown the town into a decline, and it appears entirely too large for its population, which is about

After passing through the "Lake of the Thousand Isles" (as the lovely river, broken into numerous channels by a countless multitude of richly-wooded islets, is there termed, and where the eye never tires with the magic changes), we arrive at Prescott, on the Canada side, and Ogdensburg, on the American. The latter is the western terminus of the northern railway from Lake Champlain. A railway now connects Prescott with the capital of the province on Ottawa River. The distance to Montreal is 120 miles, in which distance there are over 200 feet of fall. The descent is perfectly safe and most exciting. In ascending the river, steamers pass through the St. Lawrence Canal. The principal rapids are the Gallop Rapids, Long Saut Rapids, Cedar Rapids, and Cascade Rapids. This last has a descent of over 80 feet.

After passing through the small lakes of St. Francis and St. Peter's, we arrive at Lachine, where we take the cars for Mon[treal, a distance of nine miles.

Montreal, situated on the St. Lawrence, at its confluence with the Ottawa River, at the foot of Mont Real, or Royal Mountain, from which it derives its name. It is the largest and most populous city of British North America, containing at the present time 120,000 inhabitants. The principal hotel is the St. Lawrence Hall, one of the largest and most commodious establishments in America; its hotels, dining-rooms, and offices are not excelled by any hotel in the United States. It is most admirably managed by Henry Hogan, Esq., and the only complaint one ever hears of the St. Lawrence is from the unfortunate traveler who has failed to telegraph for rooms, and finds the house is full and he is compelled to find other lodgings. The principal sight and building in Montreal is the Cathedral, which stands on Place d'Armes, contiguous to the St. Lawrence Hall. It is built in the Gothic style of architecture,

ain and plain, sinuous river and broad, tranquil waters, stately ship and tiny boat, gentle hill and shady valley, bold headland and rich, fruitful fields, frowning battlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural spire, flowery garden and sombre forest-group them all into the choicest picture of ideal beauty your fancy can create, arch it over with a cloudless sky, light it up with a radiant sun, and, lest the sheen should be too dazzling, hang a veil of lighted haze over all to soften the lines and perfect the repose-you will then have seen Quebec on this September morning." The city is defended by Cape Diamond, the strongest citadel in America. Above the Cape stands a monument erected to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, who fell on the Plains of Abraham. A smaller monument marks the exact spot where the

255 feet long and 134 broad, and is capable | appearance of Quebec, says: "Take mountof accommodating 8000 persons. It has two towers, which rise to a height of 225 feet. Ascend one of these and obtain a glorious view of the surrounding country. The general appearance of the houses is solid, and at the same time attractive. The magnificent Victoria Bridge, by which the line of the Grand Trunk Railway is carried across the St. Lawrence River through an iron tube, is two miles long, and is considered one of the greatest monuments of engineering skill on the American continent. Few cities in America have progressed more rapidly during the last few years than Montreal. The different nunneries should be visited: to obtain admittance, apply to the lady superior. Some of the churches should also be seen: many of them are very beautiful, among which are the English Cathedral, St. Luke's Church, St. Andrew's, and St. Paul's. The Bonse-hero Wolfe fell. It is difficult to describe cours Market is also a very handsome structure; it contains in the upper story a beautiful ball or concert room, also different Corporation offices. The educational establishments are numerous and well conducted. In making the tour of the mountain, which by no means neglect to do, drive to the Mount Royal Cemetery. Before entering notice two splendid receiving-vaults. Many of the monuments are very fine. Among those most worthy of notice is that of William Stephenson-a red granite column with an urn on the top. That of Thomas Mosson is of red granite, 40 feet front, with bronze vase on top. That of John Mosson is also very fine; it is encircled by the family vaults of his three

sons.

The distance from Montreal to Quebec is 168 miles. It may either be reached by steamer down the St. Lawrence, or by the Grand Trunk Railroad. Quebec contains 75,000 inhabitants. It is grandly situated on the left or northwestern bank of the St. Lawrence, upon a triangular strip of land, which is formed by the junction with the St. Charles River. The principal hotel (and a very fine one) is the Russell House. [The proprietor, Mr. Willis Russell, is the author of a valuable little work entitled "Quebec as it Was and as it Is," in which the traveler will find much valuable information.]

Warburton, in speaking of the general

the beauties and magnificence of the scenery from Quebec to Montreal, especially if visited during the autumn months. "The sombre pine, the glassy beech, the russet oak, the graceful ash, the lofty elm, each of their different hue; but far beyond all in beauty, the maple brightens up the dark mass with its broad leaf of richest crimson. For three weeks it remains in this lovely stage of decay; after the hectic flush it dies and falls. This tree is the emblem of the nationality of Canada, as is the rose of England, the shamrock of Ireland, and the thistle of Scotland."

The city of Quebec is considered the strongest citadel on the American continent. On the river side 300 feet of perpendicular rock forbid the foot of human being; another is separated from the town by massive fortifications and broad glacis; on the third side the grim triangle looks over the Plains of Abraham in a line of armed ramparts. The site of the present city was first visited by the navigator St. Malo while in search of a northwest passage to China. On the 3d of July, 1608, Champlain selected Cape Diamond as the site for a town. Eleven years afterward it fell into the possession of the English, but was restored to the French in 1622, and remained in their possession until 1759, when it was captured by General Wolfe. The city is divided into two parts, the upper and lower town. The upper town

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