glazed windows were rare in Beirût; and close shutters afforded the only protection against storm and wind.-From this terrace the eye took in the whole extent of the prospect; and, in my own case, was "never satisfied with seeing," nor with gazing upon the scenery of the glorious mountain. Near at hand was Jebel Sunnîn, one of the loftiest summits, decked for some distance down his sides with light snows; while below and around could be traced the deep gorges of the mountain traversed by rushing streams; and numerous villages were seen scattered upon the heights. The next week there was a change; not in the scenery, but in the weather. For five days, from Monday until Friday inclusive, there was rain; on some days heavy and with little interruption, and accompanied by high wind; on other days alternating with pleasant intervals of sunshine and clear sky. The storm was so violent, that some of the vessels dragged anchor; and all left the roadstead and retired to the inner corner of the bay. Snow fell extensively upon the mountains; and also in the region of Hasbeiya. The weather on Saturday and for several following days was again splendid; but afterwards became variable with occasional heavy rain, for nearly three weeks longer, until the close of the first week in April. These were the "latter rains" of Scripture; which thus continued this season for nearly a month later than usual. One result of these late rains we afterwards saw on our journey, in the very abundant crops of winter grain. They served also to reconcile me at last to my unanticipated sojourn for so long a time in Beirût. The city of Beirût had lost nothing of its prosperity since my former visit; but had gained immensely. True, it had been subjected to bombardment by the British and Austrian fleet on the 10th and 11th of September, 1840; by which many houses were laid in ruins, and many lives destroyed. But the injuries were speedily repaired; and the chief traces of the bombardment now remaining were the marks of balls on the old castle in the harbour. The streets have been repaired in a better style; and the deep channels in the middle have disappeared. The population was reckoned in 1838 at about 15,000 souls; it is now estimated at more than double that number. A new suburb of streets has spread itself out on the southeast corner of the walled city; and the gardens and mulberry orchards on the hills in the south and southeast, are now full of dwellings. From the roof of the house occupied by the mission press, a wide and pleasing view is enjoyed of the city and its environs, with Lebanon beyond. The commerce of Beirût has increased greatly. The various lines of French, Austrian, and English steamers which visit the port, and the many sailing vessels, occasion a bustling activity; and a spirit of business and enterprise has been awakened, especially among the Christian population of the city and the mountains. This is also fostered by several European establishments in the mountains for the reeling of silk; some of them by the aid of steam.1 The antiquities in and around Beirût are not numerous; though there are more than have been usually reported. The many columns lying as a foundation beneath the quay which forms the usual landing place, and the way cut through the rock outside of the southwestern wall, I had seen on my former visit. Besides these, there are within the city, near the southern wall and just east of the second gate from the American cemetery, three large granite columns still standing, and the base of a fourth; the remains probably of an ancient temple. Outside of the same wall a little further east, and on the south side of the open area, are strewed ten or twelve other columns, some of granite and some of limestone; but whether they ever had any connection with those inside of the wall, it is difficult to say. Along the shore on the west of the city, on the way leading to the Locanda Belvidere, are likewise traces of ancient walls and foundations, on and among the rocks at the edge of the water. Here, at some distance from the city gates, is a little Mina or port, in which boats and very small vessels lie in comparative safety. The rocks around it appear in some parts to have been hewn away. In digging over a garden near Dr Smith's house not long before, there were found several sarcophagi or coffins of pottery; in which were also lachrymatories and other articles of glass. Some of these, and likewise fragments of the coffins, have been preserved by Dr De Forest. In the open place before the southwestern gate of the city, is a deep fountain with a flight of steps, covered over with solid masonry of recent erection. This is said to be fed by an ancient subterranean aqueduct, which was discovered accidentally a few years ago. The arches and other remains of another large aqueduct, by which the city was anciently supplied with water from Lebanon, are still to be seen; and will be again mentioned further on. The low hills which surround Beirût are mostly of reddish sand, interspersed with rocks, and covered with a light soil. They rise to an elevation varying from two hundred to three hundred feet in different parts. Roads radiate from the city in various directions upon and across the hills. These roads, like all others in Syria, are merely bridle-paths; not a wheel or car 1 For a statement of the amount of im- 1853, in vessels of various nations, seo ports and exports at Beirût during the year Note I, end of the volume. riage of any kind being known in the country. They have occupied apparently the same track for centuries; for in most places, where there is no substratum of rock, they are worn deep into narrow hollow ways, with banks on each side, sometimes higher than a rider's head. The borders of the roads are in many parts hedged with the prickly pear, Cactus indicus. All the roads from the city, not leading along the coast or directly towards the mountains, come out upon the moving sand-hills mentioned in our former journey. These are driven up from the southwestern shore of the promontory; and are continually advancing by slow degrees northwards. Their course is inland; for the western extremity of the promontory is rocky, as also the shore for a considerable distance towards the south. Yet half way between the city and the cape, a broad line of sand-hills has been drifted up, which are continually encroaching more and more upon the cultivated fields. In some places mulberry trees are still seen half buried. The attempt has been made occasionally to stop the progress of the sands, by sowing upon them grass and plants which thrive on sandy soils; but hitherto without much success. The government also have recently taken pains to sow the cones of the pine (Pinus halepensis); and the young pines are seen springing up in some parts. The extensive pine grove planted by Fakhr ed-Din on the south of the city was probably for the same purpose; although D'Arvieux regards it as having been intended to purify the air. This Emir, the same writer says, looked upon the territory of Beirût as his pleasure garden.' I twice visited Cape Beirut, passing over the broad tract of loose sands west of Dr Smith's house. The land shelves down gradually to the rocky point; and the rocks along the shore are much worn by the action of the waves. Just south of the point a small bay has been washed out, leaving a perforated rock and another large fragment standing isolated in the midst of it. These are a great resort of sea-fowl; and the dashing of the waves in a storm is here very striking. On the point is the square foundation of a former edifice; probably the site of the tower mentioned here by D'Arvieux in 1660, where a guard was kept to give notice of the approach of vessels. The same writer speaks of five or six towers between the cape and the city. On our return we picked up a fragment of sculptured marble on the height of land, with three or four letters inscribed upon it. We visited likewise the mosk situated about the 1 D'Arvieux Mémoires, II. pp. 333, 337. -I heard it questioned in Beirût, whether the grove of pines was actually planted by Fakhr ed-Din. But as D'Arvieux was cotemporary with the Emîr, there seems 1 middle of the southwestern coast. This too seems to be the one spoken of by D'Arvieux as being on the cape, and much resorted to by the Muhammedan women. At present, families from the city are said to take up their abode here during the summer months. The object of our visit, however, was not the mosk, but a ledge of rocks just north of it and near the shore, in which are seen quite a number of ancient sarcophagi. They are all excavated in the rock, and once had lids; but these have all disappeared. The excavations are larger in some cases at the bottom than at the top. In this respect these sarcophagi differ from all others that we met with. Half way between the mosk and the cape is a fine fountain near the shore, from which many families in Beirût obtain their supply of water during spring and summer. It is brought to the city in jars on the backs of donkeys. On the day after my arrival at Beirut, I rode out with Mr Hurter and Rev. Mr Eddy, who also had recently arrived, to the celebrated pass at the mouth of Nahr el-Kelb. The way leads from the city along the foot of the hills, with a plain of some breadth on the left towards the sea. The road was most execrable and full of deep mud. A mile or more from the city are the remains of an old building of brick, which is brought into connection with the legend of St. George and the dragon. Some say the dragon was killed here; others, that the dragon was killed at a place nearer the sea, and St. George afterwards washed his hands at this spot. Monconys in 1647, and D'Arvieux in 1660, both speak of a chapel of St. George in this quarter, which the latter says had been converted into a mosk; but neither of them specifies the exact site. Were these remains perhaps connected with that chapel ? Half an hour from the city brought us to the Nahr Beirût; which issuing upon the promontory from its mountain gorge, turns northwards to the sea. There is here a broad tract of low ground, between the hills on the west and the foot of Lebanon, extending apparently quite across the promontory. This has given rise to a common impression, that the higher portion of the promontory, further west, was once an island; the strait which separated it from the coast having perhaps been filled up by the drifting sands. The river at that season was of moderate size. It is crossed by a bridge of seven narrow arches, with very broad piers between them. The top is flat, with a steep ascent to it at each end; and is paved with large irregular stones, forming a slip 1 D'Arvieux Mém. II. p. 340. 2 Monconys I. p. 334. D'Arvieux II. p. 373. So too Maundrell, March 17th. Po cocke, II. i. p. 90. See Vol. II. P. 492. n. pery and dangerous path for animals. D'Arvieux says the bridge was built by Fakhr ed-Dîn.' From the bridge to the Nahr el-Kelb is a ride of two hours. For the first fifteen minutes the path continues over wet and marshy ground among trees and bushes, until it emerges on the shore of the bay, still some distance from the southeast corner. From this point to the corner, and thence nearly to the pass, the road lies along the sandy beach, upon which a light surf is constantly breaking. Near the corner of the bay comes in the little stream of Nahr el-Maut, River of Death, which has its source below Brummâna. It is supposed to be so called from the stagnant and unhealthy tract near its mouth. Further north the Nahr Anteliyas is forded, a somewhat larger stream, having a longer course, and taking its name from the village which lies straggling along the foot of the mountain. Before reaching the pass the sandy beach is interrupted by a rocky tract; and the waves break continually upon beds of rock half covered by the water, and worn away into singular forms. The high ridge of naked honeycombed rocks, which forms the southern wall of the valley of Nahr el-Kelb, protrudes itself towards the northwest into the sea. The road is carried around and over the point, at an elevation of about a hundred feet above the water. Another more ancient road is seen still higher up. The present one is paved in some places with large irregular stones; and we found it advisable to dismount in descending the steep northern side. At that time the path seemed to me to be as rough and difficult as possible; but in returning this way from the cedars in June, after traversing the heights and steeps of Lebanon, this pass of Nahr el-Kelb had apparently changed its character, and become a very tolerable mountain road.-The bridge, situated five minutes up the valley, is of recent construction. The river itself is usually fordable. Beyond it is an aqueduct apparently ancient, by which the water of the river, after driving several mills, is carried around to irrigate the plain of Juneh.-Looking up the narrow valley, walled in by almost perpendicular ridges of rock, I was strongly reminded of the similar, though less magnificent scenery along the river Lehigh above Mauch Chunk in Pennsylvania. The various tablets and inscriptions which give such historical interest to this pass, I examined at more leisure on my later visit in June. An account of them is therefore deferred until that time." On another beautiful day, March 13th, in company with Dr De Forest and Mr Eddy, I made an excursion to Deir elKŭl'ah, a Maronite convent on Lebanon, east of Beirût; where 1 Mém. II. pp. 377, 378. VOL. III.-2 2 See under June 19th. |