in style and age; and that both belong to the very oldest remains of the ancient substructions of the temple. This is a matter of the senses and of common sense; and no one who visits the place without theory or prejudice, will be likely to have any doubt.'

The approach to the southwest corner and the wall further east had become still more difficult than formerly, by reason of the growth of the cactus by which it is bordered. We passed across the adjacent field to the Bâb el-Mughâribeh, the Dung gate of travellers, in the city wall. Here two men were at work, and the inner door of the gate was open; so that we could look in upon the space or chamber within. Ascending to the walk upon the wall, we passed round upon it to its junction with the building covering the south entrance of the Haram, under el-Aksa. Here I got down; and by a considerable detour among the cactus entered the building. The interior however was too dark to distinguish anything accurately.—We measured along the city wall, from a point in a line with the western side of the Haram, eastward, to the angle of the city-wall, two hundred and ninety six feet. This gives proximately the length of the southern Haram wall within the city; but there is probably an element of error in the circumstance, that the southwest angle of the Haram area is not precisely a right angle, but somewhat more; and this would throw our starting-point too far eastward, and make our measurement too short. The thicket of cactus prevents all measurement along the wall itself. Our measurement of the rest of the southern wall will be given further on.

The evening was spent in the society of fellow travellers from the old world and the new. We called also upon the American consul and his family, who had just arrived from Beirut.

Thursday, April 29th. The morning was occupied in removing to our rooms in the Brüderhaus, and in various calls; one of them on Mr Van de Velde from Holland, and two friends from London, who had pleasant lodgings not far from the Damascus gate. The former gentleman had been in the country since November, travelling in different parts, and taking bearings for the purpose of constructing a new map.

Our own lodgings were in the same quarter of the city, north of the Via dolorosa and west of the main street leading south from the Damascus gate. The place was approached by a lane

1 "We need hardly point out, that the masonry of this wall [at the wailing place] is the same as that close to the bridge; as will be seen by comparing the two views. *** The same masonry still exists in

various places all along this side of the wall of the enclosure, as was discovered by Mr Catherwood on his survey." Bartlett, Walks, etc. p. 142. See also Tobler, Topographie, I. p. 469.

APR. 29.]

SOUTH WALL OF HARAM.

GERMAN MISSION.

165

running up very steeply from the latter street, and then bending towards the left till it is joined by another coming north from the Via dolorosa.1 The house is on the northwestern side of this irregular block, in a court; and south of it the interior of the block is an open field extending quite to the Via dolorosa and the street of the Damascus gate; except that there is a narrow and in some parts sunken line of houses bordering those streets; the surface of the field at the corner of the two being several feet higher than those streets. In the same corner of this field stands the single column said to have belonged to the legendary Porta judiciaria; to which we thus had access from our lodgings.-The Brüderhaus was so called, as having been occupied by four missionary Brethren, mechanics, sent out in 1846 and 1848 by the exertions of Spittler of Basel. The general idea was, that, living here together unmarried, and teaching native youths mechanical arts and trades in connection with religious instruction, they might gain the confidence of the people and exert an influence as Christians, both by precept and example. But their hopes had not been fulfilled; and three of the brethren had already left and gone into other employments, where they might labour more effectively, and without the restraint of celibacy. One of them was now connected with the English schools, and another with the English farm. The one who remained, Mr Müller, our host, was from the Schwarzwald; and had the simple piety of southern Germany, as well as the mechanical skill of his native region. He had two or three Arab boys in his workshop below; while the large upper rooms were hired out. He too seemed to have the conviction, that he could probably labour to more purpose in some other sphere.

After completing our arrangements, we went out in the forenoon to examine the antiquities along the street of the bazar. This street extends from about midway of the Yâfa Gate street northwards in a direct line to the Damascus gate. It is crossed at about half way by the Via dolorosa; and its northern portion is referred to above, and may be called for shortness the Damascus Gate street.-At the southern end, close upon each side of this street, is a shorter parallel street; that on the west extending north to the southern line of the church of the Holy Sepulchre or thereabouts; while that on the east reaches only about half as far. These three streets, so far as they are thus parallel, are covered by flat roofs, with openings left for light. Along their sides are arched spaces or vaults, which serve as the shops of

1 These two lanes are not marked in our former plan of Jerusalem, which was copied mainly from that of Mr Catherwood. They are found on our new Plan,

as also on Tobler's, and on that of the English survey.

Wolff p. 100. Tobler, Topographie I.

p. 395.

merchants and artisans. The middle one is the principal bazar; and it would seem as if the other two had been constructed later, in order to enlarge the extent and capacity of this market-place. On the west of these bazars is the higher ground, on which once stood the hospital of St. John with its appurtenances; and on the eastern side, the ground is also higher than the roofs of the bazar; so that one can cross above from one side to the other upon the flat roofs, almost without perceiving that there are streets below. It seems very evident, that all these streets have been, for at least a portion of the way, excavated through what was then higher ground, which thus now remains on either side; and that the shops or vaults along them were in like manner excavations. At any rate, the latter were obviously not first built up, and then covered over with earth from elsewhere.

All these streets have the usual character, a deep square channel in the middle, just wide enough for animals to pass each other. In the middle bazar this channel is laid, through most of its length, with large antique stones, forming the covering of a sewer, which is drained towards the south. These stones exhibit no trace of a bevel; if one ever existed, it has been completely worn away.

There seems to be no reason for question, but that these bazars occupy the identical place of the market mentioned by Eusebius in the fourth century; close upon which were the splendid Propylaea of the Basilica of Constantine, immediately on the east of the Holy Sepulchre. The monk Bernard, who was at Jerusalem about A. D. 870, and lodged in the hospital of Charlemagne adjacent to the church of St. Mary, remarks, that in front of the same was a forum or market; and every one doing business there paid yearly two gold pieces. This was probably the annual rent of a vault or shop.

Just at the north end of the bazar, a street comes up from the southeast; and another goes off westwards, ascending gradually to the court on the south of the church of the Holy Sepulchre. This latter street affords the only access to that church from this quarter. On the south side of the same, before reaching the said court, there is a beautiful Roman or Byzantine portal, with a round arch, and ornaments of delicate and elaborate sculpture. This leads into an open place on the south of the precincts of the Holy Sepulchre, where once stood the church of St. Mary de Latina. The eastern end and arched recess of this or of some like building, still remain. Adjacent to these 'Euseb. Vit. Const. 3. 39 n'aurs tians anno solvit duos aureos illi qui illud μεσῆς πλατείας ἀγορᾶς. providet." See Vol. I. p. 392 sq. [ii. 42.] See Vol. I. p. 394. [ii. 44.]

3

2 Bernard. 10, "Ante ipsum hospitale est forum, pro quo uniusquisque ibi nego

on the south, is the ruin of a structure resembling a Khân, obviously once the Xenodochium, which was connected with the church.-Passing in at the said portal, and ascending around the eastern side of these ruins, the cradle of the knights Hospitalers, we looked at the ground further south, now an open field or pasture, and compared its elevation with the streets below on the south and east. Those on the east are the bazars just described; that on the south is the street from the Yâfa gate, and is not less than twelve or fifteen feet lower than the open ground above. Along this latter street, westward from the bazars, is a line of pointed arches or vaults extending nearly to the next corner; they are larger and finer than those along the bazars; and are now, like the latter, occupied as shops by artisans. Just at the corner of the bazars is a short tract of wall built up of bevelled stones. Some of the work here looks ancient at first, the stones being much decayed; but on comparing them with some of those in the pointed arches of the adjacent vaults, they are seen to be of the same character, soft, and easily worn away by the weather. Both the corner and the arches are of the same style of architecture; and both obviously stood in connection with the great palace of the knights of St. John,2

On the elevated plot above mentioned, immediately adjacent to the western bazar, and just south of the middle point of the same, is seen a fragment of masonry, perhaps a pier or the corner of a projection in the eastern wall of the same palace. This has sometimes been referred to a high antiquity. Some of the stones are indeed much decayed; but on examination they are at once seen to be of the same kind with those in the pointed arches along the street on the south; many of which are in like manner decayed. There is indeed here no trace of an antiquity. greater than that of the palace; to which the fragment obviously belonged. It may have been one of the piers of a portal; but a strong imagination is needed to make out any trace of an arch. These remarks are the result of repeated examinations."

From the north end of the bazars to the Damascus gate the street is single, and for most of the way uncovered. But from the corner of the street leading down by Helena's hospital, so called, quite to the Via dolorosa, it is again roofed over, with openings for light, as before. The roof here, as elsewhere, is high enough for loaded and mounted camels to pass along with

1 See Vol. I. p. 394. [ii. 45.]

* So too Mr Whiting; see in Note IV, end of the volume.

3

Holy City II. p. 57. Schultz p. 61. Krafft p. 29. This latter writer has

wrongly two pillars; but properly rejects the antiquity of the fragment. So too Mr Whiting, Note IV, end of the volume. Tobler, Topographie I. p. 101.

out difficulty. This covered way also is used as a bazar for workshops; though now comparatively deserted.

In the open street or place between the bazar and this covered way, on the west side, under the high bank, are seen three columns of grey granite; one lying just at the entrance of the covered way, and two still erect further south. These columns are directly on the line of the church of the Holy Sepulchre. A fourth, once perhaps connected with these, lies at the entrance of the middle bazar on the south. Just at the left of the erect columns, a blind path begins and winds up the steep bank behind them; and so leads up to the court on the north of the present Coptic and Abyssinian convent. This court is east of the church of the Holy Sepulchre; and is over the subterranean chapel of Helena so called, and that shown as the place where the cross was found; the convent being on its southern side.1 From the court one looks up at the eastern end of the Greek portion of the great church. Just on the north is the entrance to the immense underground cistern, sometimes called the Treasury of Helena.

Two other columns, both of limestone, are still standing at the northern end of the western bazar; one built into the wall on the eastern side; the other taller, but so surrounded by houses, that only its top is seen. These of course stood in no connection with the granite columns.

2

Amid the very many objects which called for examination during our former visit to Jerusalem in 1838, our attention was not directed to these granite columns; which had stood unnoticed for centuries. They were first brought to the notice of the public by Schultz in 1845; and made to do duty as remains of the ancient second wall. In the following year (1846) I ventured to express the opinion, that these columns had originally made part of the splendid Propylaa on the east of the great Basilica erected by Constantine. According to Eusebius this Basilica was separated from the Holy Sepulchre by an open court; and beyond it, (on the east,) was another open court towards the entrances, with cloisters (σToai) on each side, and gates in front; "after which, in the very midst of the street of the market, the beautiful Propylaa (vestibule) of the whole structure presented to those passing by on the outside the wonderful view of the things seen within.5" At the very point

3

Valesius; and because this accords best with the characte of the ground. Prof. Willis renders: "middle of the broad market-place;" which certainly is justified by the absence of the article before ἀγορᾶς, but not by the place itself. This could not well have been broader than the street. Euseb. Vit. Const. 3. 39. According to