was apparently the last resting-place of an honoured race; but all record of its history has perished.

We started again after ten minutes; and came at 3.20 to Dukkân el-Ghufr. Just north of it was the Wady now dry, coming down from 'Abeih, and entering the sea on a projecting point. As we proceeded several villages and convents came in sight upon the sides of Lebanon. We passed a Muhammedan at his solitary devotions by the way side; and at four o'clock stopped for five minutes to take the bearings given in the note.'

We reached the Nahr Dâmûr at 4.20, in winter one of the most furious torrents of Lebanon. The ford is quite near its mouth, where we took bearings ; and just above are three large ruined arches of a lofty bridge, with small arches at the sides. There was now a considerable and rapid stream; the water reaching above the bellies of the horses. The road soon leaves the sand, and passes along the side of the declivity to Râs Sa'diyeh. This point is about halfway between the Dâmûr and Neby Yûnas; and there is no second point beyond, as marked on the maps. This cape was the site of the ancient Platanum. On both sides of this point for a long distance, are the traces of the ancient Roman road, extending from near the Dâmûr almost to Neby Yunas, with slight interruptions. The ancient pavement is mostly worn or torn away, and the path is on the surface of the rock below; but the wall or masonry along one side or the other of the road is everywhere visible. We reached Neby Yûnas at 5 o'clock, in four hours and twenty-five minutes from Beirut, instead of the usual six hours.

3

Here our troubles for the night began. We had sent off our muleteers early from Beirût, in order that they might arrive before us, and have the tent ready on our arrival. But they had played the laggard; and we had passed them not far south of Khân Khulda. It was long before they came up; and then it was difficult to find a spot on the sandy soil round about, where the tent-pins would hold. But the difficulties were at length overcome; the tent was pitched; we were safely housed beneath it, and partook of our first meal, which Rashid had prepared. We were left to ourselves; and then it was that the idea of the present and the past came over us with an overpowering feeling. Here we were once more, in our tent, not the same indeed as formerly, yet so like it as hardly to be distinguished; the furniture and all our travelling equipments were similar; several

E.

Bearings at 4 o'clock: 'Abeih 80°. N. 75° E. Khulweh of Ba'wintch N. 60° Vill. Dâmûr 86°, dist. 2 m. en-Na'meh 35°. Deir en-Na'meh 42°. el-Mu'allakah 54°, dist. 1 m.

2 Bearings at mouth of the Dâmûr: elBûm E. Course of river S. 80° E. 'Abeih

Deir en-Na'meh N. 35° E. el-Mu'allakah N. 35° E. ed-Dâmûr N. 50° E. ed-Dilkemîyeh south of river S. 65° E. Cape es-Sa'diyeh S. 60° W.

See Vol. II. p. 488. [iii. 433.]

articles were the very same; and our places in the tent were as of old. It was as if we were continuing a journey of yesterday; and the intervening fourteen years seemed to vanish away. And when we reverted to the reality, we could not but gratefully acknowledge the mercy of God in preserving our lives, and permitting us once more, after so long an interval, to prosecute together the researches which we had together begun. We could not but regard it as a high and certainly an unusual privilege, thus after fourteen long years again to take up the thread of our investigations, at the very point where they had been broken off.

This place, el-Jiyeh, or Neby Yunas, is the site of the ancient Porphyreon.' At the fountain of the village there is a large ancient sarcophagus now used as a trough, with a rude ornament sculptured on its front and end. The people knew nothing of where it came from; but said it was there when they were born. In one of the lanes lies a column of grey granite, ten feet long. These seem to be the only visible remains of Porphyreon.-Near Berja, a village some two miles distant in the mountain, are sepulchres excavated in the face of the rock, with upright doors, and sculptured ornaments. These my companion had formerly visited."

Tuesday, April 6th. The experience of yesterday was not to be the end of our troubles at Neby Yunas. The evening had been mild and pleasant; the thermometer at 72° in our tent; and we had flattered ourselves with the idea of a peaceful night. But after midnight a strong Sirocco wind arose; and about 3 o'clock a violent puff tore up the tent-pins from the sandy soil; and threw down the tent upon us as we slept. For a time we tried to sleep on beneath the fallen canvas; but the flapping in the wind was too great; and we were compelled to rise. The day was beginning to break in the east; and we therefore decided to take an early start, rather than try to raise the tent. We accordingly breakfasted by the dim mingled light of the grey dawn and the pale moon; and at 5.10 were again on our way.

The road led for a time along the sandy shore; and then higher up on the rocky declivity. Here we again fell in with traces of the ancient Roman road; which continue for most of the way to Sidon. At 5.40 we were on the highest point of Râs Jedrah, which projects between the cove of Neby Yunâs and the smaller one of Rumeileh. Half an hour later we crossed Wâdy Shehîm coming down from Jún, now dry, and having on it the abutments of a Roman bridge. The village of Rumeileh is on the ridge which runs down and terminates in a

1 See Vol. II. p. 487. [iii. p. 431.]

2

See Vol. II. p. 487. [iii. p. 432.] These sepulchres were also visited by Dr Wilson,

Lands of the Bible, II. p. 211.-Bearings from Neby Yûnas: Berja S. 50° E. 2 m Ba'sîr S. 80° E. 2 m.

point called Râs Rumeileh. This we reached at 6.35; and had a noble view of Sidon, still three quarters of an hour distant. Instead of continuing along the ancient and modern road to the bridge over the Auwaly, we struck down to the sands; and at 6.55 forded that stream near its entrance into the sea. The road by the bridge is fifteen minutes longer. The river was here larger than the Dâmûr; but was running over shallow pebbly rapids; so that the ford was less difficult. At 7.20 we reached the eastern gate of Sidon.

The house of the Rev. Mr Thomson, in whose kind family we spent much of the day, (Dr Van Dyck and his family being absent,) is just north of this gate, within the city, and adjacent to the eastern wall. When he took the house, it had fallen into great decay; but has been fitted up by him, and now forms a commodious dwelling, with a wide prospect over the rich environs of Sidon, extending quite to the mountains. A large room with a dome forms an excellent chapel. Here, in some of the rooms, the windows were still unglazed, as formerly in Beirut. As we were to leave in the afternoon, the time was mainly occupied in gathering information as to the best routes, and the objects to be examined along our way. In this we were assisted by the American consular agent, Ibrahîm Nukhly, who called upon us; the same mentioned in connection with our former visit.

The remains of antiquity in and around Sidon are few. Several granite columns are strewed on the east of the city; another forms the threshold of the gate by which we entered; and quite a number are said to be built into the walls of the island castle.2

We left our kind friends at 3 o'clock, and turned our faces eastward; intending to visit the southeastern portions of Lebanon. I had already obtained a view of the inner basins and gulfs of the Beirût river and the Dâmûr; and desired now to get a like general view of the upper gulfs of the Auwaly. This stream, coming from above el-Bârûk, is called the river of Bârûk until it turns westward at almost a right angle. Here it is joined by the river of Jezzîn, coming down from the south, in nearly an opposite direction, on the east of the northwestern

1 Bearings from Sidon: el-Mugdûsheh 164°, dist. 3 m. Miyeh wa-Miyeh 135°, 1m. Derb es-Sin 170°, 24 m. Hâret Saida 107°, 1 m. el-Helâlîyeh 75°, 14 m. Berâmîyeh 61°, 3 m. Rum 100°. Jeba'a

126°.

2 In January, 1855, there was disinterred, at a point about one mile southeast from the south end of Sidon, and as far southwest from Hâret Saida, near an old

place of threshing-floors, a large and remarkable sarcophagus of a king of Sidon, having upon it the longest Phenician inscription as yet discovered. The sarcophagus has been transported to Paris. Dietrich, Zwei Sidonische Inschriften, Marburg 1855. Rædiger in Zeitschr. d. morgenl. Ges. IX. p. 647 sq. Journ. of the Am. Oriental Soc. vol. V. pp. 227-259.

See

branch of Jebel Rîhân. This latter ridge terminates towards the north in a lofty bluff, which occupies the angle between the streams below their junction; and on it is the conspicuous Wely of Neby Mishy. The united stream here first takes the name of Auwaly, and flows for a time through the fine alluvial tract called Merj Bisry. A little west of the bluff of Neby Mishy is the high conical point of Ruweiset Rùm, south of the Auwaly, overlooking its deep valley, and commanding likewise a view up the river of Bârûk. This spot we therefore proposed to visit.

The western ridges of Lebanon, and indeed its great western slope, may be said to terminate at the Auwaly. The high crest or backbone of the mountain lying east of the rivers of Bârûk and Jezzin, continues on southwards, though sometimes broken into lesser ridges, and throwing up the twin peaks of Nîha (Tôm Niha), until at length it ends in the ridges of Jebel Rîhân north of the fortress esh-Shukif, between the Litâny and Wady Jermuk. The name Jebel Rîhân (Myrtle mountain) is applied to the whole southern extremity of Lebanon south of Kefr Hûneh; including also the high ridge or hook running out on the west of the river of Jezzîn.

The country between Sidon and Jebel Rîhân is rolling and uneven, with rounded hills and broad valleys, but no mountains. Deep valleys have their beginnings on the flank of Rîhân; and high ridges run out between them, forming huge buttresses in front, which gradually sink down to the level of the open country.

2

Ten minutes after leaving the city gates we began to ascend the first hill or broad swell near the village Hâret Saida. The weather was delightful; and we had a fine view towards the south across a fertile region, as far as to the hills and point of Sürafend or Sarepta. We reached the top at 3.45; having the village of Mejdel Yûn just on our right. The country in sight was hilly, with a whitish clayey soil, in which the olive tree seems. to delight. There was much verdure in view; and the whole aspect is altogether different from that of the region further north. Passing on, we came at 4.10 to the eastern brow of the same swell, overlooking a fine plain and basin lying between us and the mountains. There was now a long descent; and after1 Bearings on the way: At 3.25, Kurei- 6°. Skanderûna 39°. Shehîm 51°. Bkusyeh S. 35° E. 2 m.-At 3.35, 'Ain ed- tah 52°. Dilb S. 12° E. 14 m.-At 3.40, 'Abrah N. 15° E. m.

3

Bearings at Mejdel Yûn: 'Ain Ûn 181. Tamburit 192. Mughdûsheh 211°. Miveh wa-Miyeh 217°. Sidon 275°. 'Abrah 335.-The following lie north of the Auwaly, here running west: 'Almôn VOL. III.-4

3

Bearings at 4.10: Kerkhah 56°, 2 m. Shûwâlîk 82°. Lib'ah 103°. Kefr Fâlûs

106. Rûm 96°. Jebâ'a 135°. Kefr Jerrah 163°, 1 m. Jinsinîya 175°, 14 m. Serbah 1582. Kefr Hatta 156°. Kefr Milkeh 143°.-North o the Auwaly: Shehîm 37°. Wely of 'Ainût 48°.

wards the great convent Deir el-Mukhallis came in sight in the northeast beyond the Auwaly. Losing ten minutes on the way, the village Lib'ah was close on our left at 4.50, on the western brow of a deep valley with a brook, running into the Auwaly south of Bkustah. We reached the opposite brow of the valley at 5.10;2 and then continued along a gradually ascending tract, until at 6.25 we came to Kefr Fâlus, which was to be our night quarters. Our muleteers had already arrived; and the tent was soon pitched in the midst of an olive orchard.

3

Kefr Fâlûs is a large and thrifty village with much cultivation round about. It lies near the outskirts of Jebel Rîhân; which extend down in the form of high and steep hills and rocky ridges. Higher up were the conical bulwarks of Rum and Ruweiset Rum. The whole region is full of tillage, with many villages.

We had with us from Sidon, as a guide for this and the next day, a very intelligent young man, who had lived long in the district we were about to visit, as a collector of taxes and other revenues which his father had formerly farmed.

We were here told that the southern boundary of the Aklim et-Tuffâh, to which this village belongs, is the river Zaherâny. All north of the Senîk belongs to the Druze mountain, and is inhabited only by Christians; except the village of Hâret Saida, the people of which are Metâwileh.

Wednesday, April 7th. We had a night of sweet and sound sleep; and awoke greatly refreshed. An owlet in the neighbourhood kept up all night his single note, a sort of whistle. The morning gave tokens of rain. The wind was in the southwest, the rainy quarter; and clouds, heavy though broken, hung over the mountains and horizon. Still, as the season was so far advanced, we hoped there would be nothing more than occasional showers; and concluded to set forward.

Starting at 7, we descended to a low ridge between the heads of two valleys at 7.10; one running southwest to the Senîk; the other, Wady Rubân, passing off on a course N. 25° W. to the Auwaly. The path now climbed a high rocky ridge before us; and then continued northeast along the top; till again descending it passed along another neck between two valleys, running to join the two former ones. Beyond this neck was the village 'Ainân. Instead of keeping upon the ridge, we struck