the Archduchess Louisa to Don Pedro, apART. IV.-Naturhistorische Reise nach pears to have been great in the latter counder West Indischen Insel Hayti, auf Kos- try. Our author, partaking this feeling in ten Sr Majestät des Kaisers von Oester- no ordinary degree, and burning, as he reich. Von Carl Ritter, Gartendirector in tells us, with desire to improve his knowUngarn und Mitglied mehrerer gelehr- ledge of nature, and especially in a tropicten Gesellschaften. Mit lithographir al climate, readily undertook the commisten Abbildungen. (Travels to the West sion to Hayti, suggested to the Imperial Indian Island of Hayti for the advance Court by that well-known patriotic and sciment of Natural History, and at the ex-entific nobleman, Joseph von Dietrich. A pense of His Majesty the Emperor of collection of natural curiosities from the Austria. By Carl Ritter, &c. &c.) Stut- Imperial Cabinet, were packed in six chests, gard. 1836. to further the views of the expedition by a propitiatory offering to the sable ruler, Christophe; with what success, our author has here explained fully and at length. So little is generally known of the past and present condition of this singularly interesting island, that we shall give ample extracts from the volume before us, as the best means of gratifying curiosity; accompanying, however, our extracts with such remarks, from later and more intimate knowledge of the scene, as to give the reader a clearer insight than the work before us, without such assistance, could furnish, of the free government of the blacks.

THOUGH Somewhat late in its appearance, as regards the actual time of the journey narrated herein, this volume comes before us at a moment when the affairs of Hay:i begin to assume a tone of greater importance to Europe than has for many years been its fate. The curious problem -how far the negro and his descendants are qualified to take their place in civilized society, has now had a reasonable period for solution allowed to it and the answer to this question, though still in progress, involves a point if not of greater difficulty, at least one more closely connected with M. Ritter, who, it seems, is director of the our own immediate interests. The doubt imperial gardens in Hungary, as well as whether our West India settlements are to member of several scientific societies, left be shortly transferred to the United States Trieste, on his mission, on board of an of North America has, for the present at English vessel; and notices, as a freshany rate, been answered satisfactorily in the water sailor, the varieties of weather, which negative, by the party most capable perhaps was squally; and which, on one occasion, of determining the question in one shape." with a fearful crash and a loud peal of The probability next arises of an Emancipation more effective than even that recently granted to our slave population in the West Indies, by their possible imitation of the example of St. Domingo, either in the subversion of European rule and establishment of separate and independent legislatures or else by their union with the government of Hayti. We cannot take upon ourselves to decide so difficult a question, and are the less disposed to hazard any conjectures upon it by the simple fact, that time will solve the riddle, at present involved in obscurity; and that inquiries so vague into the future, have already received one correction by the starting of new states, possibly new claimants, into existence, both in North and South America. Meantime, the past and present condition of Hayti, the great exemplar of negro independence, may assist us in forming a judgment on several points scarcely yet ripe for mature decision.

thunder, brought all upon deck to beholdthe two masts, with their sails, lying on the waters." The captain, John Smard, comforted the passengers with the assurance that, had the masts not broken, the ship must have upset; o, making the best use of the mizen till the others could be repaired, they proceeded on their course, noticing whole islands of fucus natans, with quantities of small crabs adhering thereto; and amongst them that rare species, the holothuria. Paying a tribute off Trafalgar to the memory of that “ hero, the great Nelson," M. Ritter, proceeds to detail the ceremony of crossing the line, which, already growing obsolete, may still possess an interest at Vienna. After something more than a two month's voyage, they made the land at Cape Nicolet, on the 14th of April.

From Nicolet to the harbour of Cape Hayti, the passage is extremely narrow, and surrounded or edged by rocks and coThe interest excited by the acquisitions to ral reefs; often fatal as he observes, to navinatural history, furnished by the kingdom gators that have surmounted "the danger of Brazil during its temporary connection of the seas." The pilot came on board, with Austria, by the ill-fated marriage of and shortly after four negro children, one

of them a girl, made fast their miserable was on the ground floor, and furnished in

canoe to the vessel and calmly went to sleep in it.

They neared Cape Town as the early morning broke into day-light, and the traveller thus describes the scene

"The sea was calm, the land inviting a profound stillness reigned over all, and even the dash of the waves upon the coral breakers was no longer audible: a gentle breeze rippled over the waves that reflected the ship in their watery mirror. Surrounded by fisher-boats we reached the shore, and cast anchor exactly at twelve.

the most simple style, with merely writing tables and stools. From hence on the captain's return, they were referred to the office of Baron Dupay, secretary of state, who was to introduce them to the king. The same simplicity was observable here, and a profound silence reigned throughout.

"The baron, a Mestizo, received us in his closet, which was hung with maps and charts, in a friendly manner. He sat there in great state: his powdered head with a small pigtail appended, the imposing green velvet coat, embroidered with gold, and of the most stylish cut, giving him altogether a ludicrous appearance."

Having paid this visit of form to this important personage, their next care was to seek lodgings: but, as no hotel existed, they took apartments in a coffee-house kept by a coloured woman, who received strangers only for a week; at the expiration of which they are expected to furnish themselves with private apartments, and provide their own kitchen.

"The view, before landing, presented so interesting a scene that it is requisite to describe it here. Towards the north, we saw the majestic plain of waters, glancing light from its changeful shades, that varied from clear green to a darker hue; especially at the breakers, where the foaming waves broke up the deeper color of the sea. To the west lay the picturesque landscape of Cape Town, which stretched with some fortified points, northwards, to Cape Nicolet. On the south, we saw the whole distance to Haut du Cap, la plaine du Nord, and the neighborhood of SansSouci, behind which last rose, as in amphitheatre, the mountain-chain, crowned with the citadel of Henri. Eastward, the small town of Petite-Anse, surrounded with its sugar plantation, invited the eye; and beyond this the prospect extended to the rocky promontory, covered with a variety of vegetation, and the gigantic palms towering distinctly to sight. Fearful crags, by a posse comitatus of rabble. At a glance rising here and there, aided greatly the general effect of the picture."

In the harbour they were boarded, at anchor, by the commissioner of health, with the concise salutation, "Bon jour, Capitaine Blanc." He carried them ashore to the bureau of Count Limonade, for a due examination, while a ragged and barefoot negro of the Haytian guard took charge of the ship. A swarm of the curious, composed of both whites and blacks, lined, as elsewhere, the shore. The crowd presented a singular contr ist of well-dressed whites mingled with half-naked negroes, and here and there relieved by a sable officer, in his uniform with gold and silver facings.

In the office of Count Limonade, the minister of foreign affairs, the travellers were not a little surprized to find all the functionaries in uniform; the principal, with the minister at their head, in handsome suits of velvet embroidered with gold. Whilst the captain was ushered into another room to give an account of the voyagers' objects and the vessel's cargo, chairs were brought in for the travellers. The room

The presents were landed on the fifth day, under the care of a negro functionary, the director of Christophe's garden at SansSouci, and the chests were carried on the heads of black porters to the palace: “the Baron Dupuy, in his gala-dress abovementioned," leading the procession on foot, and the travellers following, attended of course

from the baron, the guards withdrew their crossing weapons from before the doors, and gave them entrance. They ascended to the first floor, where our naturalist was to unpack and arrange the collection in a tolerably large room, but devoid of every thing except tables: he was assisted in his task by "some laquais of Christophe, who in all their dark complexion, resembled European cooks."

The peculiarities of the negro character, and their passion and respect for finery, when all civilized nations have abandoned it, are sufficiently displayed in these extracts; but the jealousy which marks their dominion, and which formed a striking feature in the savage and sullen character of Christophe himself, was evinced by a trifling circumstance. The servants had quitted and left the naturalist to himself at the conclusion of his labors, and he saw, at no great distance from the window, a balcony where two dark females were standing, but who at sight of him immediately retired. Two servants, entering the room where he was, at once closed the window so as to leave him in darkness, ex

only, and at a short distance from the town. Here he was enabled to pursue his labors without interruption through the neighborhood, remote, as he tells us, from political suspicions.

cept the little light that gleamed through | Etrangère, a building tenanted by English the blinds "The wonder was explained by the circumstance that the ladies were the two princesses, who had taken his appear ance at the window so much amiss." He was consequently subjected to a close examination of his effects; and even his instructions from the director of the Imperial Cabinet of Natural History of Vienna were translated by a black who had lived long in Hamburg, and spoke German well. Noth-ed, trade and commerce flourishing, though

ing suspicious being found therein, for probably the inspection of princesses formed no part of the Austrian views of natural history, they were returned to him. To view the interior of the island was not per mitted him, especially after this unfortunate debut in exploration, but he was promised whatever he might desire for his collection. He did, in fact, obtain some specimens, but in the worst possible state; the feathers clipt, &c. Some plants also were equally useless when brought to him; nor was he more fortunate in his attempts to penetrate beyond the barriers, where he was greeted with the courteons sentence "Tournez, blanc." He seems, however, to have made some attempts to reach the country; being as he states, in the very centre of natural productions, without daring to pass the limits of the town; but his botanical researches amongst the bushes of the Capemountain were speedily relinquished, for one day he only saved himself from severe ill-treatment by hard running.

"In the_concerns of life and business, (says M. Ritter,) I found discipline severe, the police well arranged, religion protectthe whites are under strong restrictions. The same regulations exist as in European (military?) towns. Every morning at five, the trumpet sounds at the Place d'armes. On Sundays the guard assembles, and plays a salute of Turkish music. The troops go through their exercise, overwindow. About seven, when divine serlooked by Christophe from a balcony or vice began, he went to church with his nobility, under a splendid canopy, borne by four negroes clad in silk; by the side of each an individual of high rank walked, holding the end of a silken streamer hanging from the canopy. Christophe sat with the Crown Prince tophe had the two princesses by her side. Victor at hand, and the consort of ChrisThe noblesse surrounded them, and a numerous body of military enclosed the whole.

In the church

"The sight was extremely striking; the military music ceased; at the word of command the soldiers stood up, and the service began. The swarthy clergy sung, clarionets, and a violin, some strophes, in accompaniment with a bassoon, two which were then taken up by the congregation generally. The archbishop, standing at the altar, delivered an impressive oration, apparently in good French; and mass was performed with the usual ceremonies. Christophe then returned to the palace in form as he had issued thence, and the troops retired to their barracks."

In truth, the prince, as little as the people, seemed disposed to encourage M. Ritters's labours. The valuable presents he had brought created no interest whatever, even with the former, Christophe being totally occupied with the care of his own kingdom. M. Ritter, thereforo endeavored to cross over to the Spanish side of the isl- It will be interesting to compare the conand, inorder to prosecute his researches dition of the capital at the time our author there but difficulties interposed. There visited it, with its previous and present was no travelling without a passport by states; especially as we perceive that an exland, and the Spaniards held no communi-pedition is preparing in the French ports eation with their brethren by sea.

At the end of six weeks from their arrival, they first obtained the key of a stone house from the government. This they hired at a yearly rent of 1000 pi astres, and though it swarmed with rats and mice, it was nevertheless more convenient for our author's avocations than the coffee-house, where he had remained "unfurnished with every convenience" till that time. Forunately for himself, he sometime after made the acquaintance of Marshall Stuart, an Englishman, and physician of the body to Christophe, who procured, after some trouble, M. Ritner's removal to the Habitation

at this time, to support the claims for pecuniary compensation to that nation from the Haytians. Amongst these last, the experiment is trying, for the first time, as to the capability of the negroes for self-government; and notwithstanding the doubts that prevail in some quarters, of their intelleetual capacity, it must be confessed, that even with all the errors and faults incident to every rising people, seeking for the first principles of social government (upon which topics the light-hearted author before us appears to have touched but slightly,--and and in truth there was little inducement for him),—in spite of these serious moral and

social defects, we would observe, that the | is in utter decay. The town is regularly negroes in the time of Christophe were, built, in a quadrangle of 6 by 400 toises. comparing their previous relative condition, It reckons 14 streets from east to west, and scarcely inferior in the art of self-govern- 19 from north to south, and once contained ment to the Greeks under the protection of 900 houses, one third of which were of Capodistrias. The French, indeed, are stone; now of the latter, there are not 150, proverbially, if not in reality, bad coloniz and in some places hovels are erected ers; but their system of national gaiety in amidst the standing walls of a once splenlife, and of military rule in politics, appears did mansion. at least as well calculated to give satisfac- The old government-house seems from tion and ensure stability for their native suc- its ruins to have been a handsome building. cessors in the government, as the crude The palace of Christophe is tasteful and schemes of republicanism adopted so wide- pretty, but not expensive. "It is surroundly in South America. If a republic is, as ed on the first floor by a gallery, shaded asserted, the best of political systems, it from the sun by an awning all round, which should be remembered, that perfection is gives it a pleasing effect. Below, near the but slowly approachable; and that the state entrance, is a long covered passage, where thus constituted cannot exist, till not only Christophe and his generals conversed usuthe wills, but the habits and capacities of ally during the Sunday parade: no white the citizens are sufficiently formed for its man durst be seen there; which is a proof establishment. Despotism, though the of the erroneous tales in the newspapers, worst, is still the most effective of adminis- that Christophe was in the habit of giving trations at the commencement: and if it sweetmeats to the children of the whites in can but avoid (a difficult task, we admit) that spot. Having had an opportunity of running into its natural tendency of tyranny, visiting the interior after the revolution, I it serves, for a time at least, as the key- found all the apartments tastefully ornastone of the arch; though, like every mis-mented. Besides fine mahogany furniture, application of mechanical powers, it only there were mirrors, portraits, landscapes, destroys in the end what it was intended to &c." unite. Thus, though never lasting, it strengthens the first institutions of political society, and keeps in subjection that mental excitement created by the fierce efforts of a nation against its former rulers and oppressors: but yet it is in its own nature destructive, and Hayti is in every sense an illustration of the fact.

Christophe, it seems, had no great taste for theatres, and seldom visited either; nor durst any white man venture therein; they were both small.

During his stay in the neighborhood of the town, M. Ritter was witness to the effects of the yellow fever; two of his fellowtravellers perished by it, and his own life was preserved by the care and attention of of his English medical friend, after a sharp attack.

"The Cape Town, formerly Cape Français, now Cap Haytien, was one of the most flourishing settlements in the West of a ptisan, made of tar, lemon-juice, and He recovered entirely by the use Indies previous to the French revolution. Wealth and luxury, theatres, concerts, rum, mixed hot; but drunk, he says, cold, and fashions, were all, as in Paris, daily like lemonade: it was a sailor's recipe, on changing. This once flourishing commer- board the vessel that brought him. The cial town-the mart, as it was called, of archbishop, not having had the experience the West Indies-now (when the author of a sea voyage, nor the consequent benevisited it) lies half in ruins, an image of fit of M. Ritter's cold ptisan, "died of the misery and an instance of earthly insta- disorder without medical aid" (!)* for the bility. In this, erewhile minor Paris, a fearful feeling comes over the mind of the two English physicians were retained near stranger, as he walks through the desolate Sans Souci, the royal country palace, during streets, with only ragged negroes nigh, and the illness of the king. each catastrophe unveils its melancholy monuments. How mournful to think, that of the population of 50,000, whereof 30,000 were slaves, the whole number at present scarcely reaches 8000, amongst whom, at the utmost, are 100 whites."

"The town is built on the shores of the sea, and rises in an amphitheatre against Cape Mountain. It is open on all sides, and only at the western extremity possess es a barrier." The battery towards the sea

Other terrible scenes followed, threatening the existence of individuals: the tyranny of Christophe, creating great discontents, a rebellion broke out in the west part of the province, which extended to the capital, and cost that ruler his life. Christo

phe's education had been greatly neglected:

* In Hayti, at the time, his death was by some attributed, less to the causes assigned by M. Ritter, than to the displeasure of the king.