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small deep-sunk eyes of combined tender. /ridiculous than his dress, his titles: these ness and effrontery, (no doubt the peculiar were, Post-Captain of Praya and Secretary charm that made Flora select his vessel,) wholesale and retail. * * * He was a Potru.
to the Governor ; he was also a merchant and the most hoarse, harsh, discordant voice possible, complete the picture of her husband D. Miguel, his illastrious master ; and in
guese, and told us that the island belonged to elect : and we doubt whether the reader re pronouncing these words, he took off his quires farther particulars of him, his com- hat." panions, and their philosophic conversations " At Praya there is no pier to facilitate with their fair biographer during this voyage, landing; the approaches are bristled with even though enlivened by careful details of rocks, large and small, against which the her own daily sea-sickness throughout.
sea dashes with such violence as to break to Her utter ignorance of everything that pieces the strongest barks, unless proper pre
cautions are taken. The boat is hauled in by ought to be known included geography of a sailor, who leaps from rock to rock till be course, And thus, having formed to herself finds a suitable spot for entrance, and in the the sage idea that the Cape Verd islands were mean time the sailors in the boat are busy in remarkable for verdure, she was surprised at keeping it off the rock with their oars. It their monotonous blackness and aridity. It is difficult to land without getting wet." is, in fact, this inconceivable ignorance of Nor is this the only peril for, being car. all the truths and all the decencies of life ried by a sailor to shore, she tells us, and feelings, that forms the secret of this lady's faults, and of her merits--such as the sea leads to Praya; the route is not with
" A narrow path along the rocks bordering they are-in description. Banished as we have seen from society whenever known; rock slides under the feet, and the slightest
out danger; for the black sand covering the her mind in a state of perpetual excitement, false step incurs the risk of rolling from rock and with all the instinctive susceptibility and to rock into the sea. Quitting the path we quickness of a woman; travelling, which arrive at a soft and yielding sand—but after improves the most dull and inconsequent, two or three hundred steps leave this for a presented to her mind novel objects, either pebbly and most painful road, or rather asonce and during the solitude of this four vent, in form of a ladder, cut out of the rock month’s voyage, when the impressions would which it requires at least a quarter of an hour
n the top of which the town is situated, and be carefully cherished and renewed, or else to ascend. *** We traversed the city which in conjunction with that land of America to was entirely deserted, for it was noon; and which she had taught herself to look as the from this time till three the inhabitants shut harvest of her hopes : thus everywhere her themselves up to sleep. The reflection of impressions were received in combination the sun's rays were so fierce as to blind us." with excitement. The habit too of incessart In this agreeable state, and perfectly out and interminable jourualizing, while other of humour, the party reached the house of wise wearisome to excess, presents in her the American consul, whom they found in descriptions, the first feelings excited in all active duty, busy in " drinking grog and their freshness; and gives a value to Madame smoking fine Havannah cigars” with a vi. Tristan's sketches, whenever we can believe sitor. them, though she cannot proportion or design. They are subsequently introduced to a
They had scarcely cast anchor when Madame Warrin, who offers the fair Flora
“A small canoe came towards us with four an asylum in her house-but she declin. negro oarsmen, almost entirely naked : at the ed, because she “could not have a friend stern, holding the rudder, was proudly seated there." a little man with enormous whiskers, whose In return for this courtesy she thus de. copper skin and curly hair indictated that scribes her voluntary hostess—for the exhe did not belong to the Caucasian race: his dress was most grotesque. His nankeen press edification of her Parisian friends. trowsers bore date of 1800, and must have "She is from fifty-fifty to-five; tall, very fat, undergone many vicissitudes before reaching her skin the colour of coffe dashed with milk; him. He had a waistcoat of piqué blanc, hair slightly curled, and regular features. and an apple-green surtout : an immense red The expression of her face is gentle; her handkerchief spotted wiih black served for a manners well-bred. * * * She was in full cravat, the ends floating to the winds; and to dress to receive us, and had some friends complete his toilette, he wore a large straw. with her who were curious to see a young hat, gloves that had been white, and carried foreigner. She wore a robe en Florence and of a handsome yellow foulard by way of fan a cherry colour; short, scanty, very low, and in his band ; being sheltered from the sun with short sleeves. An enormous China.crape by a large umbrella with azure and rose. scarf, of sky-blue worked with white roses, coloured stripes, such as were made about served as shawl and head-dress, for she thirty years ago. Upon reaching our vessel wrapped herself most grotesquely in this this personage repeated, with gestures no less l ample mantle covering all the back of her
head. Her huge arms were adorned with eight negresses, and thirty-seven children of bracelets of all colours : rings of all kinds that race, he durst not employ a single feloaded her fingers, large earings hung down male upon the task, for fear of being poi. from her ears, and a coral necklace of seven soned !' He explains, or eight rows encircled her neck. She wore white silk stockings and blue satin shoes. “I have been obliged to marry one of these The other ladies were more simply arrayed, negresses in order to secure my life. I had in blue, red, or white cotton : but the shape already been three times poisoned; was of the dress and scarf was alike in all." afraid; and considering that in espousing one
of these women she would take an interest in The "negro-odour” however, which she
me; the more as I made her believe that all describes eloquently and at a great length that was mine was also hers. I then taught in its effects on "her delicate stomach,” her cookery, and oblige her to taste, in my drove Madame Tristan from the scene—and presence, whatever she serves up before I having an interval of leisure she fills it up touch it myself. I find great security in this with deploring the loss of her ignorance ! precaution." It is a comfort to think this loss could not have
The state of things is bad enough, we been very great; and we find immediately conceive for both parties; but Madame Trisafter that, besides the husband she hated, she tan is deeply interested for the slaves. One had had two lovers whom she really loved : was beaten, as the consul expluined to her, the first of these "died rather than disobey for various faults; stealing, lying, &c.; but his father!” He had been, she delicately the one sided humanity and many-sided adds, "the object of my entire affection;" cant of the lady can only feel amaze. and so too had the second, who, however, ment "was absolutely afraid of my love, “and fearful I felt too much love for him.'' Wel" that any virtue should exist where there is can therefore understand the enormity of not a will! that a slave could in any case which M. Chazal had been guilty; his crime, owe anything to his master ; and not, on the as this modern Penelope states it, being contrary, have a righị to attempt everything " that he was so base as to reclaim her as his
against him!” slave :" Anglicè, his wife. He is probably rainy season ; during June, July, and Au
" Paya contains 4000 inhabitants in the reconciled to his loss by this time.
gust, its population diminishes, owing to the Here our fair traveller encountered also a insalubrity of the climate. M. Tappe, who brought up a priest, had " The only trade is in slaves : there is no thereby acquired sufficient disposition to produce for exportation. The inhabitants obey the will of Heaven, as he piously ex
barter their negroes for wheat, wine, oil, rice, his fortune by the slave-trade. His devo- and ill-fed ; the mortality considerable, pressed it, which fixed him at Praya to make sugar, and other commodities as well as for
manufactured goods. The population is poor tion however had not been recompensed suf- owing to the numerous maladies to which ficiently, thanks, it would appear, to the mis- the inhabitants are exposed." deeds of England
Re-embarking, the wearisome course of “My God, mademoiselle, there is but one philosophy and love are resumed, with an kind of commerce on this coast; it is the elaborate defence of bigamy! We pass on slave-trade. When I came to settle on the island, ho! then was the time! There was
to other details, and amongst these the cha. money to be had, and without much trouble. racter of the vieux matelot, or real French For iwo years it was a fine business; and sailor, as given by the sole specimen ofthat the very prohibition of the trade increased species on board. the sale of negroes to the heart's content. But subsequently the accursed English have
The true sailor (said Leborgne) has nei. insisted so strongly on a rigorous execution of ther country nor family. His language does the treaties, that the dangers and expenses not really belong to any one nation. It is an now attending the transportation of blacks amalgamation of words from all languages, have totally ruined the best trade that exist from those of the negroes and American d. This traffic (industrie) is now exploded savages to those of Cervantes and Shaky all the world, and no more can be got speare. Without any clothing but what he by it than hy selling bales of cotton or wool." has on, he lives at random, and does not con
cern himself about the future; traverses the What made the matter worse for this vast extent of seas; wanders through forests martyr of liberty there was no such thing as amongst wild tribes; or squanders in a few dining in the island. They had there, it is days with prostitutes in some port the true, mutton, poultry, vegetables, fish, and money he had gained with difficulty and by fruits: but there was
The true sailor deserts as of. no such thing as ten as he can, and passes successively on a cuisinier, male or female : and though he board ships of all nations; visits all countries; was proprietor of eighteen negroes, twenty- satisfied to see, without trying to comprehend
any thing that he sees. He is a wandering She was told that in those latitudes capbird, resting a few moments upon the trees in tains had often been obliged to enforce their his route, but never fixing on any thicket. orders with a loaded pistol in each hand, as The true sailor has no attachment, no affec- the sailors refused to climb the rigging. The tions; loves no one, not even himself. He is a passive existence, useful in navigation, but excessive cold absolutely demoralising the indifferent as the anchor as to where the ves
men to inertness, they disregard all entreaty sel moors. Arrived in port he abandons his and bear blows without making an effort. ship and the wages due to him, goes ashore, When seized by numbness, they let them. and sells even his pipe to dine with some selves fall from the masts at peril of their girl ; and the next day engages afresh with lives. And all from want of proper clothing. some vessel, English, Swedish, or American, Her own experience supplied Madame Tristhat requires his service. If in his perilous career he is spared by the sea ; if his health tan with proofs of the injury brought by neg. resists all excesses, als fatigues'; he survives lectful fatuity, for while the five men proper. all the ills that assail him, and reaching a pe- ly clothed retained their health, the four oth. riod when he has no longer the strength to ers were entirely disabled. They had conunfurl a sail, he resigns himself to remaining stant fever; their bodies were covered with on land. He begs his bread in the port deep sores, and they could not eat; being rewhere his last voyage has left him; goes to duced to such a state of feebleness that their eat it on the quay, in the sun; looks with
lives were endangered. fondness on the sea as the companion of his
The severe cold exercised also an evil in. youth, and recalling early remembrances ; groans over his debility, and dies in an hos fluence on the tempers of all on board. The
officers, though protected against cold and
wet, became morose through the dryness of If this sketch be not heightened by the the atmosphere, and irritable from the sight inventive genius of the narrator,--and few of sufferings, from want of energy in them. men would have made these repeated sexual selves, and from fatigue. The best temper. Teferences before a lady, unless indeed they, ed became insupportable ; the gayest sullen; knew her taste:- the vieux malelot of and our narrator herself irritable, capricious, France differs something from the Jack and excited by the slightest contradiction to Tar of England, quoad intimacy with Cer
anger or tears.
The cook alone formed an vantes and Shakspeare. We give the fol- exception: he was always the same cheerful lowing sketch of sufferings at Cape Horn, and active being, though pale, meagre in per. which they passed in the months of July and
apparently weak. He was a native August, in from 8 to 12 deg. of cold.
of Bordeaux; and seems, we suggest, to “The sea is ever fearful off Cape Horn. have so far confirmed M. Larry's theory on We met with foul winds almost constantly : the effects of cold upon southern constitu
tions. the cold paralysed the powers of the crew, even the strongest. Our sailors were all
" Navigating in July and August at the young and vigorous, yet many of them were southern extremity of America, we had but taken ill; others were injured by falls on four hours of day, and when the moon did not the deck. One let himself tumble from the shine were in profound darkness for twenty top-mast upon the capstan, and put out his hours out of the twenty-four. These long shoulder. Those whose health stood out nights
, increasing the difficulties and dangers were overwhelmed by fatigue, being
obliged of the navigation, caused much suffering the to do the work of the disabled. To com- violent motions of the ship, the fearful whist. plete all, these wretched mariners had not a quarter of the clothes they required. The There was no reading, walking, nor sleep
ling of the waves preventing all occupation. careless habits engendered by a sailor's
ing." life and adventure prevents their providing themselves with the garments indispensable There was clearly no resource but M. against heat and cold. At the line they Chabrié and his affection, as she avows : sometimes are without light clothing, and at but to preserve this for her own convenience Cape Horn have frequently but their flannel shirts as a resource, and the rest of their and yet avoid marriage, which he proposed, dress in the same style. Oh! I have there (and we have seen she thought nothing of seen the most dreadful evils that can befal bigamy,) her plan was simple. « J'avois mankind. I have seen sailors whose trousers été obligée de mentir à M. Chabrié," (says and flannel-shirts were frozen upon them, this exemplar of the social virtues) and so unable to move without tearing their flesh it was necessary to go on lying,” but as by the contact of the ice with their frozen little to her own credit as possible ; accord. limbs. The cabins that contained their beds were filled with water (as generally happens ingly, “I was forced to tell M. Chabrié que in stormy weather in the forecastles of small j'avois eu un enfant, quoique demoiselle :" vessels), and they had no other place to and “ that this was the secret motive for re. sleep in.”
fusing" to be made an honest woman. Un. 12
luckily her lover became the more respect. It is unpaved, and in rainy weather is a cloa. ful.
The Custom-House faces the mole; it is It was then, and in a burst of sublime sen. a huge building, convenient for its objects, timent as usual, that the virtuous Flora first but destitute of architectural decoration. In discovered the inconveniences of falsehood, lishments of the different nations, the ware.
this quarter are the large commercial estab. now published to the world ; every individ- houses, the magazines, the splendid shops of ual but herself having been aware of it from luxuries: there life is active, motion continuthe very nursery. She has, nevertheless, al. Parting from this centre, we reach the not the slightest intention of appropriating quarter of the Almendral, the sole promenade the discovery to herself practically, as she for the inhabitants. In this portion of the shows.
town are situated the reliros, the pleasureThe number of vessels in the bay of Val- houses and beautitul gardens. The ihird por
tion, named Quebradas (the gorges of the paraiso affords at first glance an idea of the mountains surrounding the city) is inhabited great commerce of that port. A dozen en by the Indians. tered there the same day as our fair travel “ The character of the Chilians appears to ler's; and the instant the arrival of the Mer- me cold, their manners hard and distant. icain was known, the French inhabitants of The women are stiff, speak little, and affect the cily crowded the quay to witness, as she much luxury of the toilette, but their dress is
tasteless. In a few conversations I held with innocently tells us, the landing of “ une très
them I was not much struck with their amia. jolie demoiselle," whose fame had spread bility, and on this point thought them inferior here before her arrival, and whose “ beauty to the Peruvian females. They are said to was to cause duels amongst the crew of the be excellent housewives, laborious and seMexicain the next day.”
dentary: what tends to confirm this is, that Modesty seems not to have run to any ex. all Europeans who come to Chile, marry travagant excesses in the lady's mind, as the there, which is less frequently the case in
Peru." foregoing quotation from her narrative satis. factorily evince:s; and we are the less sur. They reached the Peruvian coast in a prised at her forming "the object of attrac- thick fog, which prevented their discovering ţion,” which she assures us she did, to all the its aridity till the next morning. But though people there collected, without knowing why. Islay and its environs present only a perspec. She was astonished at the appearance of the tive of desolation, it has increased rapidly quay, and thought herself in a French city. from three huts and a shed, which was ap. It seeins there are nearly two hundred of her propriated to the Customs at the first settle. countrymen there, who live by carrying on ment, to a town of from a thousand to twelve commerce with Peru and Ceniral America; hundred inhabitants in the course of six years. make love, gamble high, and ride on horse. The majority of the houses, built of bamboo, back; smoke, or ogle young ladies on the are not uiled, but there are some pretty wood. quays, and find a
resource in cancans. en buildings with boarded foors. The EngThese Frenchmen, she observes most chari. lish consul there has a charming residence. tably, are in reality the greatest babblers and The Custom-House is very large, and of gossips imaginable; they tear each other to wood; the church is sufficiently good, and pieces, and are hated by the inhabitants for in proportion to the locality. The port of iheir incessant pleasantries. “It is thus," Islay, better situate than Arica, has absorbed adds this well-informed damsel who abhors all business: if it advances at the same rate evil-speaking, “ that our dear countrymen ex. as hitherto, in the course of the next ten years hibit themselves in foreign countries.”
have five thousand inhabitants; but As M. Chabrié now becomes importunate the sterility of the soil will long be an obsta. for marriage and could be of little further cle, for, entirely destitute of water, it has service to her, Mad. Flora Tristan after a neither tree nor vegetation of any kind. Ar. fortnight's stay at Valparaiso determines to tesian wells are unknown as yet, and the on. get rid of him by starting for Arequipa ; but ly drinkable water in Islay is obtained from she gives us first this sketch of the Chilian a small spring, often dry in summer time ; capital.
and then the inhabitants are constrained to
abandon their dwellings. Yet the soil is a " M. Chabrié told me he had seen Valpa. black and stony sand, which would be very raiso in 1825. At that time the city was com- fertile if the means of irrigation could be in. posed of from twenty to thirty wooden huts. troduced. Now all the huts bordering on the sea arc co. vered with houses, and the population amounts
The landing at Islay is at least as difficult to 30,000 souls. The city offers three dis- as at Praya; and from the same cause, the tinct portions: the quarter of the Port or Cus. want of a pier. The village consists of a toms, formed by a single street, that extends long, crooked street preserving all the irreg. for the space of a league along the sea-shore. I ularities of a rocky and uneven surface, and
for a sup:
up to mid-leg in sand. Mad. Tristan's name Don Pio, a Peruvian, had been Colonel in was recognized, and she confessed her rela. the Spanish service and one of its best offitionship to Don Pio de Tristan, whose high cers. He returned to his native country from station in the Republic procured her much Spain in 1803, and was second in command aitention. He himself was absent at that when the royal troops evacuated Buenos juncture.
Ayres and the Argentine territory. After Mad. Flora, whose mother's marriage had many difficulties they made good their retreat not been formalised, had, she tells us, been to Upper. Peru, losing two-thirds of their ever considered as a natural child; and em. number; and often when pressed for money boldened by the affectionate correspondence to buy provisions, he made his horsemen that had passed between her father and his draw lots who should part with the spurs
of brother Don Pio de Tristan, she had in 1829 massive gold, which they all wore, first addressed her uncle, by M. Chabrié's ply. A single soldier of these troops had advice. Her letters stated that above twen. inore gold than was requisite to equip 200° ty epistles from her mother had been sent but republicans ; their self.confidence was pro. failed to reach her uncle (!); related the par. portionate; " but after fifteen years of ardu. ticulars of the "religious marriage?'—which ous war in Peru” they were finally defeated had no weight in France--but which alone at Ayacucho by the patriots, and Don Pio, united her parents; her father having, for who had been named Viceroy, prepared to reasons best known to himself, neglected ask. return to Spain. He was however persuaiog the royal permission necessary as a solded at length to relinquish his intention and dier to sanction his marriage. After vari. accept the governorship of Cuzco, which ous losscs her father's fortune amounted on from the jealousies of both parties he resignly to 6000 francs per ann. but in consequence ed after six years, and retired to Arequipa of the war between France and Spain his with an income of 200,000 livres per ann. supplies were stopped, and he had been re. He retained however his ambitious views; duced to borrow 2800 francs of his wife's after intriguing long and ably “in the dark” mother, one-third of which had been repaid only missed by five voices the being nomina. at her death by his widow. Mad. Tristan's ted President of Peru; and received to conletter concluded by intimating her reliance sole him the Prefecture of Arequipa. This on her uncle's generosity and justice. also he resigned after two years, and fled to
From Don Pio's methodical and business. Chile from the virulence of political animosi. like answer it appears that on the news of ties. He had returned but ten months when bis brother's death he had directed search to his niece reached the country, and he was be made for the orphan without success. then scheming after the Presidentship.“ All The statement of the twenty letters, sent but feared him and all detested him in their never received, seems to strike him, as it hearts,” adds the gentle expectant, well might, with great surprise in the free
For the sake of this individual, at present state of communication between the coun. Secretary for Foreign Affairs at Lima, the tries, he being so well and officially known : Peruvians as we have noticed showed at. and he avows his opinion of her illegitimacy, tention to his niece; and her gratitude is desince his brother, in all his correspondence, veloped in the following concise eulogy. had never once stated the fact of his mar.
“ The Peruvians are maneuverers under all riage.
circumstances, flatterers, base, vindictive, and Doubting from this and the absence of all cowards. From this character of the people, recognition her claim in right, he acquaints and the high government influence of my her that her grandmother while still living uncle, their conduct towards me is easily exand aware of her existence, had, by his ad plainable.” vice, left her a legacy of 3000 piastres in rea This is candour and gratitude with a vendy money; and, till that could reach her, he geance; not the less satisfactory because it had given an order on his agent at Bordeaux follows a statement that "the Peruvians for 2500 francs for her use from himself. had carried on with fierceness that terrible
“Convinced by his answer that she had war of independence for conquering their little to hope froin her uncle," whom indeed liberty'?—and it comes with even additional she charitably charges, on suspicion, with grace from her journal when she had but falsehood and fraud, she determined to try just set her foot in the country, and had the effect of her presence on her paternal been, till her arrival there, defending the grandmother; and had thus set off for Peru Peruvians from similar random charges without any notification to her uncle, but made by a humorist on board the Mexicain. reached its shores just in time to hear of her It is quite clear indeed throughout the book grandmother's death. On these facts turns that every stray word of abuse, uttered in the whole narrative.
her hearing, was invariably treasured up