the city are rich and extensive, comprising schools, hospitals, and a very interesting museum. The latter, with one or

more of the schools, runs parallel with the lake, at a short distance from the shore. A statue of a noble and native benefactor of the place, Davy de Pury, adorns the chief open space. This gentleman bequeathed to the city four and a half millions of francs.

A large hospital has recently been erected. There is a chateau, the ancient residence of the princes of Neuchâtel, and adjoining the palace is a cathedral. "Our first impressions of Neuchâtel were almost as though inspired by the melodies and enchantments of a world of bliss. Gathered under the pleasant shades of the trees on the border of the lake, and occupying every available seat, were hundreds of inhabitants and visitors. It was evening-a lovely summer evening-when the sun had just retired over the Jura range, and a full moon rose in magnificent splendour. Several rowing parties were on the lake, singing in strains of cheerful melody, while on shore a band was playing. A quieter, lovelier scene we never beheld, and the whole appeared to be quite free from every outward sympton of immoral taint or vicious indulgence. The reflection of the moon seemed to stretch almost across the lake, whilst the waters showed not a ripple, save what was caused by the striking of the No wonder that such a place should be selected as suitable for the great purposes of youthful training." There is near the lake a pillar containing a barometer, thermometer, udometer, and an instrument for ascertaining the height of the water of the lake. A spur of the Jura mountains, called the Chaumont, may be ascended with very great interest, as it commands, at an elevation of over 3,600 feet, fine views of the surrounding lakes and the Bernese Alps, the eye reaching as far as Mont Blanc. There are in

oars.

the neighbourhood charming places of resort, which offer an inducement to tourists to tarry there for a day or two.

A fine terrace skirts the lake, and rows of lime, chestnut, and other trees are in luxuriant growth. One remarkable clump of trees, probably 90 to 100 feet high, are to be seen near the Bellevue; and skirting a basin of the lake, we arrive at a magnificent grove of trees, all of gigantic dimensions, under which are placed seats overlooking the water, and having a splendid walk and drive under this most ubrageous of boulevards. On the terrace first named is an ingenious contrivance for distinguishing the various mountains in the vicinity. A brass plate, forming half a circle, has the names engraved on its outer margin, and a style, fixed by a pivot, works from one end of the half-circle to the other; when the side of the style coincides with a line on he brass plate opposite—we will say Mont Blanc-spectator looks along the style and over a sight something like that on a rifle, and, if the weather is clear, it distinctly marks the mountain we have mentioned. At Vevey there is an improvement upon this, for there the position of all the chief cities on half the horizon are delineated.

BIENNE.

Bienne is eighteen miles by railway from Neuchâtel, and takes one hour or thereabout to accomplish the journey; it is therefore an easy excursion, supposing that no coupon has been taken to include it. The town itself has little to recommend it, although the tourist will be interested in visiting some of the watch-making manufactories which abound here. The great attraction of the place is the lake a miniature affair after those we have already visited, being only ten miles long and two broad; but everybody takes a

boat, which may be obtained at any village on the lake, and rows to the picturesque island of St. Pierre.

It was here that Rousseau dwelt for two months in 1765, after he had been turned out of Paris, and had been stoned at Motiers-which stoning, by the bye, appears to have been a persecution by street boys, for boys will be boys all the world over. He came to this island home, and he wrote enthusiastically of its peace and tranquil beauty. The room in the little inn he occupied is still preserved just as he left it, by order of the Government of Berne, except that it is scribbled all over with the names of tourists.

We are inclined to think that those who care little for the memory of Rousseau will care little for Bienne.

And now our grand tour in Switzerland terminates. From Neuchâtel we travel to Pontarlier, Dôle, Maçon, Dijon, and Paris; but as we shall now proceed to describe other routes, we defer an account of the return journey to Paris for the present.

It will be found on p. 186 to p. 192.

Cours in East Switzerland.

FROM BALE OR OLTEN TO ZURICH.

TH

from

HE route from Bale to Olten has been already described (see p. 52); we will therefore take up our description

Aarau, the next station beyond Olten. Aarau is at the foot of the Jura mountains; the capital of the Canton of Aargau, pleasantly situated beside the river Aare, over which is a suspension bridge.

Wildegg is an insignificant place; but it has a picturesque castle and a mineral spring.

Schinznach is a fashionable watering-place, with celebrated sulphur baths. The castle of Hapsburg is here, once the seat of the Imperial Family of Austria, but now a ruin.

Brugg, a pleasant and pretty place, once belonging to the House of Hapsburg; its old towers are very quaint and curious. Near here the Aar, the Reuss, and the Limmat, three of the principal rivers of the country, join and travel in company under the name of Aar, until they reach Koblenz, near Waldshut,-not to be mistaken for Coblenz on the Rhine. A mile to the south-east of Brugg stands the Abbey of Königsfelden, "founded by the Empress Elizabeth and

Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where the Emperor Albert, husband of the one and father of the other, was assassinated two years before. How much religion went in those days to the building of an abbey, we may judge by the ferocious revenge which Agnes, unable to lay hands on the conspirators themselves, took upon their families and friends, when, on occasion of the butchery of sixty-three guiltless victims before her at one time, she exclaimed, 'Now I bathe in May-dew!' The actual murderers succeeded in making their escape, with the exception of Wart, who was undoubtedly present, though his share in the deed is disputed. He was sentenced to be broken alive upon the wheel; but the usual stroke of mercy' was denied, and he lingered. for two days and two nights before death relieved him from his sufferings. I know few stories more affecting than that of the devotion of Wart's wife in the hours of his long agony. During the day she concealed herself in the neighbourhood, and as soon as it was dark, eluding the guards, she contrived to climb up to the scaffold, and kneeling by his side through the slow and terrible night wiped away the sweat of anguish from his brow, and whispered into his ear the consolation of faith and love. Before the morning broke she hastened away to hide herself near the spot, and to pray that when she came again she might find him dead. There came in the morning a gay troop of knights to see the sight, and bitterly spoke one when he looked upon the unmutilated face. 'Are there no crows in your country?' was his stern demand. It was the cruel Agnes in disguise. Strange indeed it is that two such passions should have a common origin of woman's affection—that the same source should send forth such sweet waters and such bitter!"

Brugg was the birthplace of Zimmermann, the author of the well-known book on "Solitude."