but those who have visited the Gorge du Trient will scarcely care to visit Pfäffers simply for the sake of the gorge. Between Ragatz and Coire are many indications of the great flood of 1868, which here, as in other parts of Switzerland, caused great damage. But there are also pleasing indications of fertility between the two stations of Mayenfield and Zizers, about midway between Ragatz and Coire. At Molinära on

the left is the summer residence of the Bishop of Coire, surrounded by an excellent farm.

COIRE, OR CHUR.

(Hotel Sternbock: The best hotel in the place, situated on the bank of the river Plessur, which falls into the Rhine a short distance from the town.)

Coire forms the capital of the Canton of the Grisons, and is deeply interesting to the lover of national liberty. The whole of the canton is worth exploring, and its history studying.

Baedeker says "the canton is remarkable for the variety of its scenery, climate, productions, and language, as well as for its national peculiarities and political constitution. The country is a complete network of mountains, about 150 valleys, and a great number of snow-clad peaks. Barren rocks are surrounded by luxuriant cultivation, wild deserts, where winter reigns during three parts of the year, lie amid forests of chestnuts under the deep blue sky of Italy." At Coire we enter into a new world. Its history stands apart from that of the rest of Switzerland; the language spoken is the Romansch, an unknown tongue to the world at large, although the people can nearly all supplement it with German or Italian; and the tourist who has time to spare

will find this town to be one of the most interesting headquarters he can find in Switzerland.

There are many points of interest for the fleeting tourist to note as he passes by.

The situation of the town is extremely picturesque ; narrow and irregular streets, but abounding with good views. It is a walled town, with about 8000 inhabitants. The lion of the place is the

Cathedral, or church of St. Lucius. St. Lucius is of doubtful origin, but the legends say he was a King of Scotland, and suffered martyrdom here. The church dates from the eighth century, and it is a treasure-house of many curious relics, some of them of considerable value. The old capitals and curious nave, and antique crypt; the raised choir, and a hundred other things, including the very old organ, and some paintings by Rubens, Holbein, and Dürer, will all repay careful inspection.

The Episcopal Palace, not far from the church, is also very ancient, and it is said that the chapel is one of the earliest Christian edifices extant. It is in an old Roman tower called Marsol, in which tower, says tradition, St. Lucius was murdered in the year 176. Above the Cathedral is a very fine walk, commanding extensive views of the Viâ Mala and the Splugen.

An interesting note in "A Physician's Holiday" describes a curious custom in Coire.

"We had very indifferent rest in our inn, owing to the over-zeal of the Chur watchmen, whose practice it is to perambulate the town through the whole night, twelve in number, and who, on the present occasion, certainly displayed a most energetic state of vigilance. They not only called but sung out every hour, in the most sonorous strains and even chanted a long string of verses on the striking of

some; and as the Weisser Kreutz happens to be in a central locality, with a street both in back and front, we had rather more than an average share of this patriotic and religious demonstration. I suppose the good people of Chur think nothing of these chantings, or from habit hear them not; but a tired traveller would rather run the risk of being robbed in tranquillity, than be thus sung from his propriety during all the watches of the night. Through the kindness of a friend I have obtained an accurate version of these elaborate night-calls, and I give in a note the words, as an interesting illustration of manners. Although the words are in modern dress, and the verses are the same as, or very similar to, those chanted in many different parts of Germany, there is little doubt that they are, like the custom itself, really very ancient."

WATCH CHANT AT CHUR.

"Hear, ye Christians, let me tell you
Our clock has struck eight,

Our clock has struck nine, etc.
Eight-only eight in Noah's time
Were saved from punishment. Eight!
Nine digests no thanking:
Man, think of thy duty! Nine!
Ten commandments God enjoined :
Let us be to Him obedient. Ten!

Only Eleven disciples were faithful :

Grant, Lord, that there be no falling off. Eleven!

Twelve is the hour that limits time:

Man, think upon eternity! Twelve!

One, -O man, only one thing is needful :
Man, think upon thy death! One!"

From Coire there is a very extensive diligence service of

the Swiss Federal Post. very many of our readers as one of the most interesting leading to Italy. But there are several other diligence

The Splugen route is known to

routes to Andermatt, by the Ober Alp, and to several places in the Engadine, including St. Morritz, Samaden, Silvaplana, etc. There is also a direct diligence service to Bellinzona and Magadino, by the Benardine pass. At present we can only call attention to these various roads, but hope in another season to have the facility of issuing through tickets to all places which are united to Coire by diligences, and to describe all the routes in full detail.

Coire to Schaffhausen,

VIA CONSTANCE.

FROM COIRE TO RORSCHACH.

HE line carries us back to Sargans station, from

THE whence we take a more northerly course, following

the stream of the Rhine to the Lake of Constance. We again pass through interesting villages between the mountains, till we come to a plain but very fertile country. Near to Haag station is a bridge over the Rhine, in the road to Feldkirch, the first town in the Austrian Tyrol. The Rhine here constitutes the frontier of the Swiss and Austrian States. Rheineck is a pleasant place, situated at a bend in the river, which has here grown into a wide stream. Travellers who are seeking the Molken-Kur or Whey-Kur alight here for Heiden, said to be one of the healthiest and cleanest towns of Switzerland. A post-wagon or diligence runs twice a day to Heiden, and the fare is two francs. Those who wish to visit Bregenz can easily make the excursion from Rheineck. There are some fine views to be obtained, and Adelaide Proctor's poem will be read with unusual interest.

"Girt round with rugged mountains,

The fair Lake Constance lies;

In her blue heart reflected,

Shine back the starry skies;