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this ceremony from a little distance. The head of the corpse, which is brought down to the river-side on a bier, is first shaved. Then the body is smeared with butter, a large piece of which, about 121bs. in weight, is placed on the lower limbs to assist combustion. The body is then lifted upon a pile of wood, which is set on fire, whilst a number of Hindoos walk round it, uttering a mournful dirge, the relatives and friends of the deceased are seated on the ground at some little distance, looking on without any apparent signs of sorrow, and passing the tobacco pipe from mouth to mouth.
On the 25th of Decmber, we again entered a tributary of the Ganges, which subsequently joined the same stream, and thus enabled us to cut off an angle. The banks were here beautiful and well wooded, some parts of them being haunted by the Bengal tiger, which is an object of great terror to the inhabitants. The female servant of Mr. Rebsch and several of the boatmen quarrelled with the captain for taking this dangerous road. The greater was therefore our anxiety on one occasion, when br. Pagell set off about four in the afternoon, in company with the cook, to a village, which lies in the midst of a thick grove of bamboo trees, and did not return till late. They had mistaken their road in returning, and proceeded a considerable distance down the stream before they perceived their error. At Christmas and the close of the year, we were in spirit with our brethren at home, and the Lord did not leave us without a Christmas and New year's blessing; while we dedicated ourselves anew with body and soul to Him, who hath done so great things for us His unworthy servants.
On the 7th of January, we reached the frontier town of Bengal, Bhagrlpore. The Church Missionary Society has a station a few miles distant from it. Dr. Drose, the Missionary, kindly sent his palanquin for us, and we spent some very happy days with him. On Sunday, we heard a sermon in Hindoostanee, after which a couple were married. In the afternoon, we attended the schools, where the children do not sit on benches, but squat on the floor on mats. We afterwards visited some of the dwellings of the Christian Hindoos. We found them very simply furnished, but neat and clean. The females distinguished themselves to advantage from the heathen women, by their friendly salutation and cheerful demeanor. Mr. and Mrs. Rebsch's child, which had been born during our voyage, was baptized here. On the 21st, we passed Patna, and enjoyed from our boat the lovely view of the town, which stretches out four or five miles in length, and is adorned with handsome temples and Mohammedan mosques. On the following day, we reached the Mission station, Dinapore, where we spent-three days with the Baptist Missionary Mr. Price. On the ■30th, we spent a day of great refreshment at the Mission-station, JJuxar, in company of the Missionary Ziehman, who had been sent out by Gossner. On the 3rd of February, we passed an idol temple at Ghazeepore, quite close to the Ganges. Already at a distance, we heard a most dismal sort of music proceeding from its neighborhood. Whole companies of Hindoos were either going or coming for the purpose of sacrificing. The last ten or twelve days before we reached Benares, the heat was very oppressive. The wind was almost always contrary, and the sails could not be used; the boats had, consequently, to be drawn by the men, who had hard work. Sometimes they had to wade for hours up to the middle in water. They were glad when evening came, and they were able to squat down on the ground in a circle and eat their rice, which they did with their fingers, a spoon seeming too troublesome. On the 7th of February, after a voyage of fifty-seven days, we at length reached Benares, a large city esteemed sacred by the Hindoos.
As Mr. Bebsch had been enabled to inform the Baptist Missionary Heinig (a German by birth) of our intended arrival, the latter kindly invited us to take up our quarters with him, and sent his conveyance to fetch us from the river. Br. Heide had been taken ill on the journey, and was in an extremely exhausted state, so that a medical man had to be sent for immediately. The Lord blessed the means employed, and in a fortnight's time he was convalescent. The kind doctor would accept no remuneration for his trouble, being a warm friend of the Missionary work, and in the habit of attending the Missionaries at Benares without charge. May the Lord reward him for the love which he shewed towards us!
We were much delighted to make the acquaintance of two other dear German missionaries, Leupold and Fuchs. The former possessed a number of the Brethren's publications, and we held a meeting for singing hymns in our usual way, with all the Germans who chose to attend it.
On the 17th, we took leave of our dear fellow travellers, Mr. and Mrs. Bebsch, who set out upon their further journey to Jubbelpoor, which they expected to reach in about twenty days. We had been nearly seven months in company of these dear Christian friends, and received great kindness at their hands, for which we pray our gracious Lord to reward them out of the fulness of his grace. We now hired two conveyances for our further journey to Meerut, a distance of 250 miles. These vehicles are two-wheeled cars, drawn by three oxen. A roof of bamboo and palm-leaves is constructed over them to serve as a protection against the sun's rays. A hole is left just above the wheel, through which you creep into the vehicle. These equipages exactly resemble the shepherd's huts, which one finds on the fields in Pomerania.'
On the 21st, we left the house of our dear friend Mr. Heinig, and turning our backs upon Benares, set out upon our further journey, in the Lord's name. We should have had much pleasure in visiting the well-known ancient cities, Agra and Delhi; but, ia order to save time and distance, we chose the shorter route hy way of Mecrut. The inconveniences of our vehicles were great and manifold, yet we were cheered upon reflection that we were on a Missionary journey, and not on a pleasure excursion. The high roads in India can hardly be said to be inferior to those in Germany. They have regular rows of tamarind, mango, and oleander trees on either side, whose shade is refreshing, whilst their lovely flowers delight the eye. Our attention on leaving Benares was first attracted by the numerous pilgrims who were streaming to the city, for the purpose of performing an important duty connected with their religion. They worship in the numerous temples, and bring back with them a quantity of the sacred water of the Ganges, which they sell at home to great advantage. You generally see them, when on their return, carrying a long bamboo pole upon their shoulder, at either end of which, there is a basket containing vessels filled with this water. These poles are often adorned with a number of noisy little bells. Upon the whole, there is a great deal of traffic on this road. Caravans with camels and elephants met us daily. Thus, for instance, we saw, at no great distance from Meerut, sixty elephants collected together, and very soon afterwards, we met a caravan of at least 500 camels. We generally started at four o'clock in the morning, and walked a great part of the way, as our vehicles were so narrow, that we could neither sit nor lie in them at our ease. The usual day's journey is eighteen or twenty miles. After travelling this distance, we pitched our tents in one of the mango gardens, which are to be found at intervals along the road, and have been formed by Government for the accommodation of travellers. Every person is entitled to enter such a garden, which is surrounded by a mud wall, and contains nothing but mango trees. The mango-plum tree, which is cultivated all over India, but particularly in the upper provinces towards the mountains, attains a noble size, spreading its shady branches in every direction. The odor of the blossom is strong but agreeable. On reaching such a resting-place, our servant William prepared our meal, consisting of rice or other provisions, which we carried with us. Bread, butter, and meat, we bought occasionally from Enropeans in the towns and villages. Provision has also been made for water, in walls dug by the road side. We were frequently reminded of scripture scenes, by the groups of travellers whom we passed, encamped in the neighborhood of these wells. A painful contrast to such pleasant reminiscences is formed by the tokens of dark paganism which are continually presenting themselves to the eyes and ears of travellers in this lovely country. At different places, we beheld large and splendid idol temples in course of erection. The difference observable in towns and villages between Hindoos and Mohammedans is very striking. Where the latter reside, you perceive clean, and often fine houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens; cleverly executed sepulchral monuments; well dressed persons, who observe a proud and haughty bearing towards the Hindoos. The blessing of a belief on one only God is here evident. Oh ! that they might soon know Him, as manifested in the person of Christ our Saviour! The appearance of the Hindoos, on the other hand, is slovenly and dirty. Their dwellings are low mud huts, the ruins of which, where they have fallen in, are permitted to remain even in the midst of a town or village. The domestic animals, particularly the pigs, live with the inhabitants in thi.ir houses, and swarm in the streets. The bullocks, which have been consecrated to the idols, are everywhere seen. These are presented by the rich Hindoos to the temples; and, having been branded by the priests, they are considered sacred, and are then turned adrift, and feed at pleasure on the finest fields and gardens, or come in the crowded streets and bazaars of the towns, and give way to nobody. In the neighborhood of Allahabad, we perceived that nearly all the men were armed with guns or crooked sabres. It seems, that the country in that neighborhood is rendered uns ife by troops of robbers. In spite of our precautions, we were visited one night by a thief, who was not however able to carry off any of our effects.
On the 15th of March we reached Mecrut, a large town containing a garrison of English soldiers. Here, through the assistance of a kind friend to whom we had letters of recommendation, we hired new vehicles to take us to Kalka; situated at the foot of the Himalaya mountains, whither Mr. Proehnow promised to seud some of his people to meet us. We spent some pleasant hours in the family of Mr. Lamb of the Church Missionary Society. By his advise, we travelled generally during the night, resting during the day, to escape the increasing heat. The roads were becoming much worse, and we frequently found it difficult to pas* the mountain-streams which crossed our path. A new an! better road is in course of construction. One night, we lost our way, but were happily set right again by some soldiers. The palanquins of wealthy Englishmen who leave the warm lowlands, at this season of the year, for the hill districts, frequently overtook us. Such travellers are always attended by a very large number of servants, many of whom carry torches. They present an interesting appearance. Near Utnbala, we crossed the highroad from Delhi to Lahore, along which there is an electric telegraph, a sign of the constant progress of British civilisation in this mighty empire.
Early on the 21st, we reached the town of Saharampore, and caught, for the first time, a glimpse of the magnificent mountainrange of the Himalayas. We soon, however, lost sight of them, until the 25th, when we again beheld them at a much less distance thaa before. This large majestic chain, with its snow-capped peaks, lay before us, and it is impossible to describe, what were the feelings of our hearts at the thought of ere long climbing their slopes, and reaching the much desired Kotghur. Towards noon on the 27th, we arrived at Kalka, situated at the foot of the mountains. The messengers of Mr. Prochnow did not arrive until the following evening. Our baggage was again unpacked, and this time had to be laden on the backs of mules or men, the roads being too steep to admit of using carriages. There is a certain weight, perscribed by the law, which such a carrier has to bear. We had to employ a number of these men, with whom, in company of the persons sent from Kotghur, who served as guides, we started early on the 29th of March. The hills rise very steep on the north side of the town, and our way led us past some very abrupt declivities, to a height of more than 7000 feet.
On the top of this eminence, is the town of Chasauli, an important military station; at a short distance from it is St. Lawrence, the large educational establishment for the children of European soldiers in Indea. From this summit, there is an enchanting view of the mountain-chain, with its gigantic, snow-capped peaks. We stood a long time admiring this spendid prospect. The* vegetation on these heights is much scantier than in the plains below. The powerful sun soon scorched it, the soil being scanty on these rocky eminences.■ Here and there, on the declivities, may be seen human dwellings, around which there are a few fields, laid out in terraces, and yielding but a small return to the labors of the husbandman. On the following days, our road led us through deep ravines, and up exceedingly steep ridges, which we had to ascend by such zigzag paths, that we seemed often no further advanced than we had been some hours previously, only at a considerably greater elevation. Owing to the narrowness of the road, we had often to stand still, in order to let persons pass, who were conveying their merchandise on troops of asses and mules. These troops are numerous, thus rendering the road anything but lonely. We generally travelled from 6 A. M. to 3 P. M., when we were always glad to rest, feeling exhausted by the sun's heat. On the second day, we passed Subatoo, the residence of many English persons during the hot season. On the third day, we were compelled to pitch our tent, though with considerable difficulty, upon the dry bed of a rivulet. The following day we reached Simla, situated in the midst of a lovely grove of rhododendrons, on the side of a hill, beautifully studded with the villas of English gentlemen.
The bazaar contains some very fine shops, and there are also public places of amusement.' We called upon the English clergyman, at Mr. Proehnow's request, and were received most kindly by him, as was uniformly the case, whenever we met with any missionaries or clergymen on our journey. Leaving Simla, we proceeded through a tunnel. Vegetation became more and more