about for some time at random. At length we saw a man riding on a mule, making haste to get away from a farmhouse. I followed and overtook him. Having placed him between two hussars of the advanced guard, I commanded him to direct us to Ronda, or take his choice of being stabbed. Without this countryman, whom we happened on by chance, it would have been quite impossible for us to find the way in this unknown and hostile region. This is a specimen of the difficulties we had constantly to struggle with, not merely military or foreseen, and such as are to be met with in the routine of regular war, but obstacles without number which the national spirit generated, and at every step, according to circumstances, sprung up and were multiplied without end.

After entering a pretty extensive valley, we perceived on the heights towards the left a troop of a thousand or fifteen hundred men observing our march. Among them we could distinguish some women and even children. They were the inhabitants of Settenil and the villages around, who having learned that we had changed our road to avoid their ambuscade, had set off to pursue us. They were making all the haste possible, in hopes of getting between us and the passage of a defile in our front. We trotted our horses to get before them, and happily cleared the pass. Immediately after this, we were surrounded by a host of peasants, who separated tumultuously from the main body of the enemy, and kept firing on our flank. They followed us among the rocks, never venturing nearer than a gun-shot, lest they would be unable to regain the mountains if we made a charge. Priests and alcaids rode on

horseback over the heights, and directed the movements of the crowd. Such of our hussars as had the misfortune to be wounded and to fall, were in a moment mercilessly stabbed. One alone escaped. He had the presence of mind to say, that he wished to confess before he died, and the minister of Settenil saved him from their fury.

We reached a frequented path on the side of a steep mountain. Here we passed some minutes to breathe our horses. The rocks over head screened us from the fire of the enemy above. At length we came in sight of Ronda. As we were rejoicing at the prospect of terminating our journey, we were struck at the sight of fresh enemies firing briskly from an ambush in a wood near the town. Our uneasiness now became extreme, for we dreaded that the French had abandoned the place. But with the most heartfelt joy, we beheld a party of hussars belonging to our own regiment coming to meet us. At a distance they had mistaken us for enemies.

We entered the town, and halted in the public square. Our comrades now came to embrace us, and to inquire the news from France and the rest of the world, to which they had become almost total strangers. We then dispersed into our different quarters, calculating on at least a few days rest, after the fatigues we had so long endured.

CHAPTER VIII.

RONDA is situated among high mountains, which must be crossed in going to Gibraltar, and are ge nerally known by the name of the Serrania de Ronda. Their summits are destitute of vegetation, and their sides are covered with a brittle rock, whose surface, one would think, the sun's heat for ages had blackened and calcined. It is only at the bottom of valleys, and on the borders of streams, that meadows and orchards are beheld. Nearer the sea, the vines creep along the ground almost without culture. From thence come the

Spanish wines held in greatest repute.

Constantly obliged to struggle under the privations of uncivilized life, the people who live in these barren mountains are sober, persevering, and unconquerable. Religion is the only tie which binds them, and almost the only curb by which they can be restrained. The late Spanish government could never subject them to a strict observance of the laws in time of peace, nor oblige them to serve in the armies during war. They uniformly ran off, when marched to any distance from their habitations.

Each village chooses its alcaids for a term of two years. These magistrates, however, seldom

dare to exercise their authority, for fear of making themselves enemies, and of being exposed to an always implacable vengeance. If the king's judge had a mind to use force to quash a disturbance, in an instant every dagger would be turned against himself. But if a prayer be commenced, it is a wonder if the combatants do not lay aside their fury, to join in it with one accord. In their hottest quarrels, the arrival of the holy sacrament never fails to restore peace.

I was informed, that never a feast of any consequence takes place in the Sierra, without the death of two or three individuals. Jealousy among these people is a phrenzy which blood alone can pacify. It seldom fails that the mortal stab follows the sidelong glance of passion.

These highlanders, to a man almost, are contraband dealers. They sometimes unite in great numbers from different villages, under their most noted chiefs, and, descending into the plains, disperse themselves up and down to carry on their illegal traffic. Often they resist the troops despatched in pursuit of them. These smugglers have always been celebrated for their cunning, and for the dexterity with which they are trained to beguile the vigilance of hosts of customhouse officers. Ranging through the mountains day and night, they are familiar with the most retired caves, with all the passes, and with the most untrodden paths.

Whilst the men are thus constantly engaged in these contraband contests, the women remain in their mountainous villages, and fear not to engage in the most oppressive toils. They bear heavy

loads with ease, and are proud of this superiority of strength, which they have by habit acquired. They have even been seen wrestling with each other, and contending who would lift the largest stones. When they go down to Ronda, they are known at once by their masculine size, their robust limbs, and their wondering, yet defying looks. They are fond of ornamenting themselves when they visit the city, with the veils and rich stuffs of their contraband traffic. Their dress makes a strange contrast with their coarse features, and dark sun-burnt complexions.

The warlike inhabitants of these lofty mountains had all taken arms against the French. When King Joseph came to Ronda at the head of his guards, about three weeks before our arrival, he vainly endeavoured to make them submit to his authority, first by gentle means, and then by force.

King Joseph remained only a few days at Ronda. He had left a garrison in that city, consisting of 250 hussars of our regiment, and 300 soldiers of his own guard of infantry. He had given our Colonel, when he departed, the title of " Civil and Military Governor," with most unlimited power over the neighbouring provinces. The absolute authority attached to this pompous title, which was equal to that of captain-general, should have extended over a track of country fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference. But the smugglers of the Sierra, limited our sway to the walls of Ronda, and even there we could not sleep without anxiety, on account of our mistrust of the inhabitants of the suburbs.

The same night I arrived, a number of fires were lighted successively on the mountains around.