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nature, resumes its empire. Point out to one of these calm and apparently passive Mussulmans, an Infidel who has dared to speak irreverently of the Prophet; show him a woman, his purchased slave, who has given way to the impulse of natural instinct; and you will see all at once this silent sedate being turned into a demon, giving way to his rage and venting his revenge upon his unfortunate victim. Ire and revenge, whether excited by jealousy or by fanaticism, are dominant passions among Mussulmans. Probably their very education, which compresses the passions and concentrates them within the heart, accounts for the violence with which they burst forth, like fire long concealed under the ashes. This is also perceivable with regard to the abstinence from wine. If a Mussulman be brought to swallow the first glass of the forbidden juice, the obstacle is passed; he drinks to intoxication, laughs at the Prophet, and at last becomes an unbeliever. If once he perceives the absurdity of one of the points of his Prophet's revelation, he discards the whole: accustomed to despise all other religions, he naturally falls into Atheism, or a vague sort of Deism. It is generally supposed that many of their men of state and fortune are in this last predicament; yet they keep appearances, and conform to outward ceremonies. Cupidity has also a powerful sway among the grandees at Court, governors of provinces, and persons in office; but the other class of Musselmans enjoy the reputation of good faith and honesty in money matters.

Proud and uninformed, believing himself and his brethren the chosen people of God, the disciple of Islamism fancies still that the whole earth is intended to become the inheritance of the true believers. Mahomet has so promised, and the Caliphs and Sultans have partly fulfilled the prophecy. He despises other nations, even while he is obliged to acknowledge their superiority in many branches of knowledge, which advantage he considers as the only one the wretched unbelievers are doomed to enjoy; whilst his imagination wanders in visions of bliss, destined for the faithful only,of that sort of bliss which alone he can conceive, and which will be realized after his death. The fanaticism of the Mussulman is however of a different and loftier nature than that of an inquisitor. He leaves to God the punishment of the infidels, and if he himself persecutes them in this world, it is through worldly reasons, through ambition or cupidity; but he does not torment their consciences; he allows them to pray to God in their own way.

The nullity of women in Mussulman countries, at least with regard to society, and the opinion of the inferiority of their nature, tend to maintain gravity and austerity in the manners of the stronger sex. A Mussulman thinks it of the dignity of man to speak but little, to look grave, to avoid lively and pantomimic

motions and gestures; he therefore stalks along with an imposing gait. Hence the great objection many of them have for those among Christian nations, who are of a mercurial disposition. I have myself heard them prefer the English or Germans to the French or Italians, because, from outward appearances, they thought there was more manliness in the former.

These habits tend to conceal and disguise the heart of man; but we must not suppose for all this that Mussulmans are destitute of feeling, and incapable of sympathy and tenderness, even towards infidels. There are many instances to the contrary. Denon, in his travels in Egypt, relates of them a fact which honours human nature. At the breaking out of the insurrection of the inhabitants of Cairo against Bonaparte's soldiers, some French women who had followed their husbands found themselves wandering in the narrow and intricate streets of that city; the shouts of the insurgents, the report of fire-arms, apprized them of a danger which they had no means to escape. In the midst of their perplexity they were accosted by some of the inhabitants, who, with a gentle violence, pushed them within the doors of a neighbouring house. The affrighted females shuddered at the fate which they feared awaited them, nor could the expressions of their hosts, which were unintelligible to them, dispel their fears. The kind landlord, however, left them a while in one of the apartments, and presently returned with two of his infant children, whom he placed in the arms of the strangers. The latter understood the meaning of this affecting assurance, and their terrors were dispelled; they remained quietly with their hospitable guests until the insurrection was quelled, when they were restored to their husbands; and this while the French soldiers were butchering without mercy the unfortunate Egyptians, even within the sanctuary of the Great Mosque, where the latter had taken refuge!

Mussulmans, as well as Catholics, have their Saints, only they are of a less dignified description than those of the Church of Rome. Besides which, the Saints in Barbary and in Eastern countries enjoy the reputation of holy character while living. Some of them are impostors; others are insane. A few are men of real merit, who have applied particularly to the study of the Koran and its commentaries, and who lead an irreproachable, retired, and sometimes beneficent life. But most of these Saints are a sort of vagabonds who pass with the vulgar for men inspired; and, as such, allow themselves all kind of irregularities. Some lie for years under a porch or shed, without any covering for their body, in the midst of filth; and the devout Mussulmans bring them every day a sufficient pittance for their food, and kiss their feet or hands, or the hem of their tattered garments. Some

of these creatures are stupid and inoffensive; others are mischievous, and it is chiefly against Christians that their malice shows itself. A Tuscan watchmaker, resident at Tunis, related to me that he had been himself in the greatest danger from one of these Saints, or madmen. He was strolling one evening out of the Marina or Goletta Gate, towards the banks of the lake, when he saw at some distance one of these villains with an axe in his hand, gazing steadfastly at him; the Tuscan suspected his intention, and began to effect his retreat towards the city at a quick step, looking askance at his enemy. When the Saint perceived that the other was escaping, he began to run after him, and despairing to overtake him, threw his axe at him, but fortunately missed him. The Tuscan, on entering the city, ran into the English Consul's house, which is guarded by a janizary at the door, and where the Saint durst not follow him. There he remained for a considerable time, while the Saint was loitering in front of it, and watching him when he should come out. At last the darkness of night induced the Saint to retire to his den, and the watchmaker slunk quietly home. It is extremely dangerous to have any disputes with these people, as there are always numbers of fanatics ready to take their part, and who excuse almost every act, however atrocious, which they commit. Hamuda Bey, the then sovereign of Tunis, had had the firmness to confine the most troublesome of these Saints, as he could not give redress for the mischief they might do if left to range at large; he, himself, felt he was obliged to bow before the vulgar superstition. It is a common practice with some of these fellows to beg in the streets, or on the side of the roads, and to abuse, and even pelt with stones, those who will not listen to their demands. The burialplaces of some of the most celebrated Saints become so many sanctuaries, where it is not allowed to seize criminals who take refuge there. Several of these sanctuaries or monuments exist at Tunis, and in the neighbourhood.

One of the most remarkable places in Tunis is the Bazar; it consists of a long circular arcade, covered with a wooden roof, lined on both sides with a number of small shops, which, however, contain much precious and superb merchandise: rich shawls, Turkey and Persia carpets, cloth richly embroidered with gold or silver, ivory, amber, perfumes, and other oriental goods, besides European manufactures. There you see the Moorish tradesman squatted on a mat, smoking his pipe, bargaining with his customers, or waiting with great calmness that some should present themselves. The Bazar is a truly agreeable lounging-place; there you are sheltered from the rays of the sun; your eyes rest upon splendid objects; you see a display of industry hardly expected in a country of barbarians; and you inhale an atmosphere impregnated

with the emanations of attar of roses, of which perfume a great quantity is made in this country.

The

The kingdom of Tunis is the smallest in extent, (about 200 miles in length North to South, and about 100 in breadth ;) but the wealthiest, and comparatively the most populous of the Barbary states. It includes the former most important Roman province called Africa Propria, which was divided into Zeugitana and Byzacena, and extended from the Syrtis Minor to the river Tusca, now the river of Tabarca, which divided it from Numidia, now the territory of Algiers. This extent of country constituted the territory of Carthage, although at one time the Carthaginian dominions extended far beyond it both East and West. river Mejerdah, formerly Bagradas, runs through it; it has its source in the Atlas Mountains, and proceeding northward, empties itself into the Mediterranean Sea, near Porto Farina, to the westward of Tunis. To the South, the kingdom of Tunis is bounded by the Great Desert. Travelling in that direction, about 70 or 80 miles south of Tunis, one begins to run the danger of meeting lions, and other wild beasts. On the eastern coast, opposite the islands of Malta and Lampedosa, there are the roads of Hammamet, Susa, and Sfax, where there is anchorage for merchant vessels; but the whole of this coast is considered dangerous, on account of the sand-banks and rocks which line it. To the south-east, the territory of Tunis borders on that of the Regency of Tripoli. The country abounds in corn, oil, and dates, which last is a common food for the inhabitants. Provisions are brought into town from the interior every morning on camels; and you may see a great assemblage of these patient creatures, outside of the walls, resting themselves after their journey.

The Tunisians have had occasional disputes with their neighbours, the Algerines, and war has at times taken place between the two piratical regencies. I heard an Italian physician who had accompanied the Tunisian army (if such a name can be given to the motley crew that assembled on the occasion) in their campaign, give a curious account of their operations. The Tunisians entered the Algerine territory, and overran, in part, the province of Constantina, the nearest on that side; some desultory cavalry engagements took place, but the war was more of a predatory nature than a course of planned operations. The infantry, my informant said, was in a wretched condition; no order or discipline, no military precautions, they were exposed to continual false alarms; in short, it was a ridiculous piece of business from beginning to end. At last, the Tunisians retired, and peace was made, I believe, through the mediation of the Porte. The Algerines pride themselves on their superior valour, and look down with contempt upon the Tunisians, because the latter are a more civi

lized and tamer race, and have been the first to give up their former occupation as pirates, for the more honest as well as safer pursuits of trade and industry. A Christian, who, at Algiers, would be exposed to continual insults, lives very peacefully, and quietly at Tunis. Some of the lowest people and children will occasionally salute your ears with the appellation of kelb, (dog,) but this is the only offence to which a Christian stands exposed in ordinary times.

The above-mentioned physician attended several of the superior people in Tunis, and seemed to enjoy a comfortable competence. He stated, that the Tunisians are generally healthy, and live to a good age; that the climate is salubrious, notwithstanding the heat and the want of cleanliness; and that the most common disease he had met with was the dropsy, especially among women, which he attributed to their sedentary life, caged as they are within the walls of their harems.

I remained some time at Tunis, undecided upon what course to take. I was, for the first time, thrown into the great sea of life, and left to float by myself. I stood alone, debarred from my relatives and former connexions; and the suddenness of the change was rendered more striking by the strangeness of the country I was cast into. Malta was the place I fixed upon as my next station; but, in order to get there, my French passport was of no use, and there was at Tunis no representative of my native country. Having formed an acquaintance with the American Consul, in consequence of letters of introduction from Italy, I applied to him for a passport in order to take my passage on board of a ship of his nation, many of which there were then in the harbour of Tunis; but his orders from home forbade him to give passports to any but American citizens. I applied next to the Spanish Consul, that is to say, the representative, not of King Joseph, but of the Supreme Junta at Seville, and it was immediately and most politely granted. I felt then easier in my heart, and having learnt there was a Spanish brig going to set sail for Malta a few days after, I packed up my portmanteau, and, one fine summer morning walked out of the Marine gate, and stepped into a sandal or flat boat going to La Goletta. During two hours, our turbaned boatmen rowed across this Stygian palus, I suffered the inconveniencies of a scorching sun; for this was no pleasure-boat covered with gaily-coloured awning as those which glide on the Bay of Naples, but a rude, crazy, though capacious boat, such as befitted the dark grim Charons which impelled it along. The putrid exhalations from the marshy waters which they stirred were peculiarly offensive.

In a little more than two hours' time I was landed on the desolate shores of Goletta; there I saw nothing but vast tracts of

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