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CONTENT S.
CHAPTER I.
EXCURSION TO THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA.
Preparations. Struggle for a Charger.-Road to Jericho.-Wilderness of Ju-
dea.-Scene of the Parable of the Good Samaritan.-A Ruined Khan.-
The Plain of Jericho.-View of the Mountains of Moab.-City of Jericho.
-Conflicting Opinions as to its Site.-Probably three distinct Sites.—Plains
of Moab.-Pisgah.-Its Site not known.-Fountain of Elisha.-Place of
Christ's Baptism.-The Jordan.-The Dead Sea.-Bathing.-Specific Grav-
ity of the Water.-Its effects on the Skin.-Return to Jerusalem Page 1
CHAPTER II.
JERUSALEM TO NABLOUS.
Preparations for Departure.-Pratique.-Conversation with the Pacha.-De-
parture. View of Jerusalem from the North.-Bîreh, the Beeroth of Scrip-
ture.-Flocks and Herds.-Beitin, the Bethel of Scripture.-Remains of a
Church.-Yabroud.-A. Feud.-A running Fight.-Village of Lubban.—
Shiloh.-Mount Hermon.-Fertile Country.-Mountains of Samaria.-
Gerizim.-Ebal.-Position of Nablous, the Shechem of the Old Testament.
-Jacob's Well.-Jacob's Tomb.-Approach to the City.-Tombs in the
Mountain-side
CHAPTER III.
NABLOUS TO NAZARETH.
Entrance into Nablous.-The Convent.-Service of the Greek Church,-
School.-Antiquity of the Town.-Population.-Sebaste.-The Mountain
of Samaria.-Terraces and Colonnades.-Ruined Church.-Reputed Tomb
of John the Baptist.-View from the top of the Mountain.-Plan of the
City.-Plain of Esdraelon.-Jenin.-Jezreel.-The Battle-field of Na-
tions.-Mount Tabor.-Nain.-Approach to Nazareth.-The Convent.-
The Virgin's Fountain.-Mount of Transfiguration.-View.-Evening Meal
of the Arabs.-Church of the Annunciation.-Sacred Places.-Spurious
Traditions.-The Superior of the Convent.-School.-Chapel where Christ
Taught,-Population of the Town
20
iv
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
NAZARETH TO BEYROUT.
The Plain of Zebulon. -Acre.-Ruins o the Magazine.-Effects of a Bom-
bardment.-Mount Carmel.-River Kishon.-Disappointment.-Convent
of Elijah.-View from Carmel.-Return to Acre.-Promontorium Album.
-Plain of Phoenicia.-Three Remarkable Fountains.-Alexander's Mole.
--Tyre.-Fulfilment of Prophecy.-Road to Sidon.-Sarepta.-Sidon.-
Road to Beyrout.-Population without the Walls.-Enter Beyrout
CHAPTER V.
BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS.
Page 38
Letters from Home.-American Missionaries.-American Consul.-Impor-
tance of Beyrout.-Commerce.-Appearance of the City.-Environs.-
Groves and Orchards.-The Pacha.-Departure for Damascus.-Villages
and Terraces on the Mountain Side.-Mount Lebanon.-Dangers of Travel.
-Uncertain Weather.-Beautiful View.-Hospitality.-Too many Lodg-
ers.-First View of Damascus.-Scripture Recollections.-Nazman the
Syrian.-Saul of Tarsus.-Enter Damascus
CHAPTER VI.
DAMASCUS.
49
English Officers.-Not Dinner enough.-Ramble through the City.-Dilap-
idated Houses and Streets.-Dwellings of the higher Classes.-Specimen
of a splendid Residence.-The Bazars.-Merchants.-Divisions of the Ba-
zar for different Trades.-European Goods principally exposed.-Workers
in Iron.-Silversmiths.-Khan of Asaad Pacha.-A Procession. Moslem
Worship.-Mosques.-Schools.-Dervishes.-Cafés.-Cathedral of Saint
John." Street which is called Straight."-House of Ananias
CHAPTER VII.
58
The Plain of Damascus.-Tradition of Paul's Escape by the Window.--
Scene of Saul's Conversion.-Security of Christian Travellers in Damas-
cus.-Safety of all Europeans.-Sanctity of Damascus as a Moslem City..
-Devotion. Mr. Wood, the English Consul.-Table of Statistics
CHAPTER VIII.
DAMASCUS TO BALBEC.
. 67
Road up the Barady.-Village of Zabdané.-First Sight of Balbec.-The
Greek Bishop.-Ruins.-The Terrace.-Courts.-Cyclopean Masonry.-
Pantheon.-Temple of the Sun.-Traces of Christian Antiquity.-Of
Egyptian Antiquity.-Of Roman and Arabian Dominion.-Return to Bey-
rout
CHAPTER IX.
MOUNT LEBANON AND ITS INHABITANTS.
Page 72
Range of Lebanon.-Of Ante-Lebanon.-Inaccessible Valleys.-General
Character of the Inhabitants.-Dress.-The Tantour.-Independence of
the Mountaineers.-Tenure of their Lands.-Sanctity of Lebanon.--Mon-
asteries.-The Nusairiyeh.-Their Dogmas and Rites.-The Assassins.—
The Metuwilies.-Their Doctrines.-Christian Population.-The Maron-
ites.-Their Fidelity to Rome.—The Patriarch.—Their Usages.
CHAPTER X.
MOUNT LEBANON.THE DRUSES.
79
The Druses.-Their Number.-Secrecy of their Rites, &c.-Modern Re-
searches.-Sketch of Derazy, founder of the Druses.-Hamza.-Funda-
mental Doctrines of the Druses.-Hakim.-The Hierarchy of Ministers.—
Seven Commandments.-Secret Mysteries.-The Akals.—The Djakels.—
Corruption of Hamza's Doctrines.-Hatred of Moslems and Christians.-
Catechism of the Druses.-Late Applications for Christian Instruction.-
American Missionaries. Difficulties.- Maronite Persecutions. Move-
ments of the English Government.-Suddenly Abandoned.--New Connex-
ion of the Druses and Moslems.-Relations of the Porte to Christianity
in the East.-Policy of England.-The Protestant Diocese of Jerusalem.
-Prospects for the Future.-Movements of American Missionaries at
Hasbeiya
-
CHAPTER XI.
BEYROUT TO SMYRNA.
86
Arrival of a Stranger.-Departure from Beyrout.-The Steamer.-Hadjis.—
Turks in the Rain.-Cyprus.-Saul's Preaching before Sergius Paulus.-
Changes.-Scanty Population.-Primitive Mode of Exchange.-Rhodes.-
The Harbour.-Associations.-The Knights of St. John.-Fortifications.
-Desolation of Rhodes.-The Sporades.-Patmos.-Scene of the Revela-
tion.-Associations.-Harbour of Smyrna 101
CHAPTER XII.
SMYRNA.THE MODERN CITY.
The Lazaretto.-Preparations for Comfort.-Amusements of Quarantine.-
The Gulf of Smyrna.-Appearance of the City.-Population.-Quarters
of Franks, Greeks, Turks, Jews, and Armenians.-Houses of Rich Arme-
nians.-Rural Coffee-shops.-English Chapel.-Dutch Chapel.-Ceremo-
nies at the Greek Church
108
vi
CHAPTER XIII.
ANCIENT SMYRNA.-THE APOCALYPTIC CHURCH.
The Epistle to the Church at Smyrna.-Polycarp.-Scene of his Martyrdom.
-Catholic Letter narrating the Martyrdom.-The Castle.-Remains of
the Ancient City.-No Remains of the Apocalyptic Church.-Site of the
Ancient City.-Change of Site.-View from the Acropolis.-Legend as to
the Birthplace of Homer.-Ships in the Harbour.-Mr. Temple.-Mr. Van
Lennep Page 113
CHAPTER XIV.
SMYRNA TO EPHESUS.
Parting with Companions.-Determine to visit the Sites of the Apocalyptic
Churches.-New Fellow-travellers.-Mr. Park.- Mr. Gardiner.-Depar-
ture.-Valleys of Asia Minor.-Desolation.-Asia Minor a vast Necropo-
lis. Hamlet of Triander.-Rude Lodgings.-A Caravan.-Costumes.-
The Cayster.-Plain of Ephesus.-Mount Gallesus.-Castle of Aiasaluk.
-Ruinous Mosque.-Turkish village of Aiasaluk.-Not on the site of Eph-
esus
CHAPTER XV.
EPHESUS.
119
Mount Prion.-Site of the Ancient City.Its Limits.-Quarries.-Early
Christian Sepulchres.-Tombs of Mary, John, and Timothy.-Ruins of
the Circus.-The Odeon.-The Theatre.-Scene of the Tumult excited
by Paul's Preaching.-The Stadium.-Avenue.-No remains of the Tem-
ple of Diana.-Ancient Splendour of Ephesus.-Total Ruin of the City.-
Fulfilment of Prophecy
CHAPTER XVI.
EPHESUS TO PHILADELPHIA.
125
The River Cayster.-Roads.-Ancient Roman Roads and Bridges.-A Vil-
lage of Storks.-Getting a Lodging.-Ruins of Ancient Fountains.-Impen-
etrable Hedges.-Improvement in Cultivation.-Turkomans.-Mode of
making Butter.-Mode of raising the Vine.-Tyria.-A Meal in Turkish
Fashion.-A Ragged Regiment-Odemes
CHAPTER XVII.
PHILADELPHIA.-LAODICEA.
132
From Odemee to Philadelphia.-Fortifications.-A Paltry Palace.-Associa-
tions.-Promises to the Church of Philadelphia.-Their Fulfilment.-Cor-
ruptions of Worship.-Reverence of the Turks for Philadelphia.-Failure
to visit Laodicea.-Brief Account from Chandler.History of the Church
in Laodicea.-Its present Desolation
CHAPTER XVIII.
SARDIS.
Page 138
Dhergee. Its romantic Situation.-Valley of Soupetran.-Approach to the
Plain of Sardis.-The City.-Disappointment.-Acropolis.-The Amphi-
theatre.-Ruins of the Church of St. John.-Of the Church of the Virgin.
-Rude Lodgings.-Palace of Crœsus.-Disappearance of Building Mate-
rials.-Pactolus.-Columns of the Temple of Cybele.-Sardian Cemetery.
-Mounds.-Desolation of Sardis
CHAPTER XIX.
THYATIRA.
. 144
Dismissal of Greek Servant.-Leave Sardis.-The Hermus.-Lose out
Way. The Gygean Lake.-A Praying Moslem.-Marmora.-The Khan
-Greek Dance.-Ruins.-Tumuli.-Plain of Thyatira.-Modern Town
of Aksa.-Its Thriving Appearance.-Trade.-Causes of its Prosperity.—
Difficulty of Identifying Sacred Places.-Mosques.-Population.-Wor
ship in Greek and Armenian Churches
CHAPTER XX.
PERGAMUS.
151
Two Roads from Thyatira to Pergamus. - The Mountain-route preferred.→
Yaiekooe.-Pleasant Lodgings.-Comforts indeed.-Flourishing Appear-
ance of the Town.-A strange Introduction.-Cordial Welcome.-A Greek
Family.-Ornaments of Coin.-Kenik.-An Embarrassment.-Reach Per-
gamus on Foot.-Situation of Pergamus.-Memorials of Grecian Domin-
ion.-Of Roman Sway.-Theatre.-Temple of Esculapius.-Immense
Amphitheatre.-Christian Antiquities.-Present Condition of Christianity.
-Population.-Mosque.-Church of St. John.-Massive Remains.-Mos-
lem Tradition. Modern Church.-Modern Town of Bergama.—Trade.—
Taxes.-Depreciation of the Currency
CHAPTER XXI.
PERGAMUS TO THE PLAIN OF TROY.
157
Disappointment. -Avriomasti.— Adramyt.—A Manœuvre. A Mountain
Journey.-Mount Gargarus.-An Accident.-Plain of Berimitch.-Mount
Ida.-The Scamander.-Ennæ.-Lower Chain of Ida.-Plain of Troy.-
Bounarbachi.-Site of Ancient Troy.-The Tomb of Hector.-View of the