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P. W. Tomkins, historical engraver to her Majesty, from a painting by P. Violet.

in the Dutch fashion. The trade and manners of the inhabitants are noticed, and the chapter concludes with a respectful mention of the apothecaries of Gothenburg, who, having the advantage of a liberal education, are considered as superior to the same class of men in many other places.

Chap. I. delineates the mode of travelling in Sweden, compared with other countries, informing us there is no regular conveyance even between the country and the capital; none, for example, between Gothenburg and Stockholm; Stockholm and Geffe; Geffe and Upsala; or the other principal towns of the provinces. A comparison is made between the conveniences of travelling in Sweden and Italy. The author observes, that between Helsingberg and Stockholm, a distance of near four hundred miles, nothing that can be considered as an inn is to be met with. The horses are so little, lean, and feeble, as to render it necessary to employ seven to draw a carriage, for which in Germany they only use three: they are put to the carriage four a breast in the first line, and three in the second; and the author says, we were attended by five or six peasants, who had each a horse in our caravan; and deeming it good policy to whip up their neighbour's horses while they spared their own, they fell often a quarrelling, and sometimes dealt about blows among themselves as well as among each other's horses. Such a Babylonish confusion is not, I believe, to be met with in any other part of the world. At every post-house a register is put into your hands, under the denomination of a day-book, in which travellers set down their names, their state or condition in life, whence they came, and whither they are going, and if they have been satisfied, or otherwise, with the postillion, or rather the peasant. Warberg is noticed in passing through it, and of Gothenburg the author observes, that it is the second city of the kingdom. Its environs are almost every where naked, barren and dreary. They present an uniform scene of small eminences of black rock, where na- The treatment of horses in Sweden ture cannot by any power of art be is next noticed. These animals forced to produce vegetation. The stand or lie on perforated boards, harbour exhibits a similar confusion like soldiers in barracks. This pracof rocks, not more pleasing to the eye, tice has been approved by the Veteand some little craggy isles of a rug-rinary Colleges of both Stockholm ged and forbidden aspect. As to the interior of the town, it resembles in some respects the towns of Holland, having canals, with rows of trees along their margin, regularly cut or clipped

Chap. II. contains the journey from Gothenburg to Stockholm, and first notices Trolhätta, a place where the admirers of natural beauties, if they could be tolerably accommodated, would be tempted to stop for several days, as it is scarcely possible in less time to have any satisfactory view of the famous cataracts, and the canal, which is one of the boldest and most amazing works of the kind in the world. The cataracts are a series of cascades, formed by the river Götha, which issues from the lake of Wennerp; and being united after many breaks, falls in its whole and undivided stream from a height of upwards of sixty feet, into an unfathomable abyss of water. The canal of Trolhätta has been wrought through the midst of rocks by the means of gunpowder, and may justly be considered as in some respects characteristical of the Swedish nation; for it represents them as they are, prone to the conception of grand enterprizes, and distinguished by mechanical invention. As a work of art, and of bold and persevering design, it is not too much to say, that it is the first in the world, even the Duke of Bridgewater's canal in England, and that of Languedoc in France, not excepted.

At Trolhätta a book is presented to strangers when they are about to leave the place, and they are requested to inscribe their names in it, with some motto relative to the impression made on their minds by the falls, or other local circumstances. From this book the author has recorded some extracts.

and Copenhagen, and universally adopted by the royal and other great families, on account of its salutary effect on the foot of the horse. In countries where the horses stand in a

hot-bed produced by their own litter, their feet become tender, and subject to divers disorders; but you very seldom see a lame or foundered horse in Sweden or Denmark, which, if it is not to be ascribed to the skill of the licensed farriers, who are, at least in the Danish dominions, all brought up in the Veterinary College, may, to a certain degree, be owing to the manner of keeping the horse on boards instead of straw.

The cultivation of the country is next described, and the arrival at Stockholm, on which occasion the author and his friend experience much kindness from Mr. Malmgrein, of whom the most respectful mention is made and his general character gi

ven.

Chap. III. Topographical description of Stockholm. "The grand and most distinguished feature in the locality of that city, namely, being situated on islands, amidst gulfs and lakes, is destroyed by the ice. The same water which divides the inhabitants of the different quarters in summer unites them in winter. It becomes a plain which is traversed by every body. The islands are islands no longer horses in sledges, phaetons, and in vehicles of all sorts, placed on scates, scour the gulf and lakes by the side of ships fixed in the ice, and astonished as it were to find themselves in such company on the same element." p. 39.

"There is no part of this great mass of water that is not arrested and subdued by the frost, except the current under the north bridge, and on the south near the king's stable. Here the water, which during the keenest frost dashes and foams with great noise through the arches of the bridge, sends up majestic clouds of vapour to a considerable height in the atmosphere, where, in the extreme rigour of winter, being converted by the intenseness of the cold into solid particles, they are precipitated down through their weight, and presenting their surface to the sun, assume the appearance of a shower of silver sand reflecting the solar rays, and adorned with all manner of colours. In the interior of Stockholm, throughout all its different quarters, every thing in winter in like manner undergoes a sudden change. The snow that begins to fall in the latter weeks of autumn covers and hides the streets for

the space of six months, and renders them more pleasant and convenient than they are in summer or autumn, at which seasons, partly on account of the pavement, and partly on account of the dirt, they are often almost impassable. One layer of snow on another, hardened by the frost, forms a surface more equal and agreeable to walk on, which is sometimes raised more than a yard above the stones of the street. You are no longer stunned by the irksome noise of carriage wheels, but this is exchanged for the tinkling of little bells, with which they deck the horses before the sledges. The only wheels now to be seen in Stockholm are those of small carts employed by men servants of families to fetch water from the pump in a cask. This compound of cart and cask always struck me as a very curious and extraordinary object, insomuch that I once took the trouble of following it, in order to have a nearer view of the whimsical robe in which the frost had invested it, and particularly of the variegated and fantastical drapery in which the wheels were covered and adorned. This vehicle, with all its appurtenances, afforded to a native of Italy a very singular spectacle. The horse was wrapped up, as it seemed, in a mantle of white down, which, under his breast and belly, was fringed with points and tufts of ice. Stalactical ornaments of the same kind, some of them to the length of a foot, were also attached to his nose and mouth. The servant that attended the cart had on a frock, which was encrusted with a solid mass of ice. His eye-brows and hair jingled with icicles, which were formed by the action of the frost on his breath and perspiration." p. 40, 41. This cart, and one of the small sledges used for the conveyance of goods or luggage, are represented in an engraving, which also exhibits a view of the Mint.

"The season of summer, at which time the nobility and gentry retire to their country houses, which are fitted up with great magnificence and luxury. Those villas are for the most part pleasantly situated, and embelfished by works of art, which second and improve the efforts of nature, You there find hot-houses, in which they raise peaches, pine-apples, grapes, and other fruits. All kinds of wines, liquors, and other delicacies, are

lavished at the table of a Swedish gentleman, or rich manufacturer, or merchant in the country." p. 45. In describing the diversions and amusements of the Swedes, their passion for cards and gaming is particularly noticed. The author presents his reader next with a view of the environs of Stockholm - Drottningholm-The Royal Palace - Annual Tournament at Drottningholm-The Royal Park at Stockholm-and the Royal Procession and Yearly Festival in the Park, of which festival the following description is given:

"On the twenty-fourth of June, or Midsummer-day, the king and royal family come to the park, where they take up their abode in tents for the remainder of the month, that is for the space of nearly a week. A camp is formed of the garrison of Stock holm, composed of two regiments of foot-guards, some companies of horseguards, and a corps of artillery. Along the lines of the camp they raise poles or posts, adorned with branches of cyphers, and sometimes scutcheons with mottos or devices. At the foot of the posts are placed barrels of beer on wooden frames. About six or seven o'clock in the afternoon, on a particular signal, the barrels are opened, when each soldier is presented with a pipe, a loaf of bread, two herrings, and some money. All this is done at the expence of the officers. In the mean time the military music plays, and the soldiers begin for to drink and to dance. Upon each of the barrels sits a soldier, in the form of a Bacchus, or of some other figure more or less ridiculous. Those that are dressed up in this manner first taste the liquor and propose the toasts, which are generally numerous, and constantly accompanied with the cry of vivat, answering to the English huzza. When any of the royal family, or a general officer, chance to pass by, their healths are drank, and always with the same accompaniment of vivat. A kind of masquerade ensues for a short time, during which the soldiers amuse the people, that flock round them in the lines of the camp with songs, and indulge themselves in various freaks and acts of merriment. On the beating of the retreat every thing is submitted to the reign of order. Such festivals, without diminishing respect, certainly

tend to excite in the soldiery and people an interest and attachment to the royal family." p. 55, 56.

Chap. IV. The months of September and October, when the rains set in, and May and June, when the thaw commences, are extremely disagreeable. The precautions against the severities of winter are stoves and warm clothing; of the latter article the author writes, "I have often been greatly diverted at seeing a Swede, before he came into a room, divesting himself of his pelice, great coat, and upper shoes, and leaving them in the anti-chamber. The vestments or exuvie of ten persons are suffi cient to load a large table." The amusements of the capital in winter An account of the Swedish ladies

Their beauty-Accomplishments and manners-Women of another description-Character of a Swedish petit maître-Spirit of society-Music and dinner-parties, follow nextOf the last article we have the following description:

"The Swedish dinner parties are expensive arrangements of shew and formality. It will often happen, that out of forty or fifty people, who appear in consequence of an invitation sent with all possible ceremony, and perhaps a week or a fortnight before the appointed day, scarcely three or four know one another sufficiently to make the meeting agreeable. A foreigner may still fare worse, and have the misfortune of being seated near a person totally unacquainted with any language but his own. Before the company sit down to dinner, they first pay their respects to a side table, laden with bread, butter, cheese, pickled salmon, and liquor, or brandy, and by the tasting of these, previous to their repast, endeavour to give an edge to their appetite, and to stimulate the stomach to perform its office. After this prelude, the guests arrange themselves about the dinner table, where every one finds at his place three kinds of bread, flat and coarse rye bread, white bread, and brown bread. The first sort is what the peasants eat; it is crisp and dry; the second sort is common bread; but the brown, last mentioned, has a sweet taste, being made with the water with which the vessels in the sugar houses are washed, and is the nastiest thing possible. All the dishes are at once put upon the table, but

no one is allowed to ask for what he likes best, the dishes being handed round in regular succession; and an Englishman has often occasion for all his patience, to wait till the one is put in motion on which he has fixed his choice. The Swedes are more know ing in this respect, and, like the French, eat of every thing that comes before them and although the different dishes do not seem to harmonize together, yet such is the force of habit, that the guests find no inconvenience from the most opposite mixtures. Anchovies, herrings, onions, eggs, pastry, often meet together on the same plate, and are swallowed promiscuously. The sweet is associated with the sour, mustard with sugar, confectionaries with salt meat, or salt fish; in short, eatables are intermingled with a poetical licence, that sets the precepts of Horace at defiance.

Sed non ut placidis coceanțiremitia." p. 68.

The following anecdote may seem to illustrate the extreme passion of the Swedes for cards, the only amusement to fill up the interval between dinner and supper. "A nobleman of great rank having waited longer than usual for his dinner, and seeing that no preparation was made for it, went down to call his servants to an account, and to examine into the reason of the delay. He found his houshold, in imitation of their supe riors, deeply engaged at cards. They excused themselves to their master by telling him, that they were now at the most interesting point of the game; and the butler, who had the greatest stake, took the liberty of explaining the case to his excellency, who could not in conscience but approve his reasons. However, being unwilling to wait for his dinner till the game was decided, he sent the butler to lay the cloth, while he himself sat down with the other servants, and managed the interest of that individual in his absence." p. 69.

The formality and restraint of Swedish manners are next describedCostume of dress-Private suppers given by the king and royal family Intercourse between the court and the people, and their mutual relations of condescension and respect-Great assemblies at the Royal Exchange, which are honoured by the presence of the royal family-Places of public VOL. I.

resort, and their expences-A club called the Society.

In noticing the intercourse between the court and the people, the author observes that "At the same time the most rigid observance of particular forms is exacted by the court of Stockholm, within what we may call its own precincts, there is no country where the king and princes mix more familiarly with the people than in Sweden. This makes the contrast the more striking, for it is a very different thing to be admitted to the private suppers given by the king, and the other branches of the royal family, and to stand exhibition at court. The king gives suppers in a domestic and friendly way twice, and sometimes three times a week." At which times, and parti cularly at the Exchange Assembly, the king evidences much affability

even to those who have never been introduced at court; of which description are many distinguished families among the gentry, clergy, and the mercantile class; for though they are not of noble birth, yet their education and respectability in society is deemed a sufficient title to these marks of attention.

Chap. V. Character of Gustavus III. king of Sweden, under whose reign the arts and sciences are represented to have been disregarded. On which account the author observes from the state of things at the time referred to in Sweden," It would probably be made to appear, that neither the splendour of a throne, nor the protec tion of a prince are necessary, or even favourable, to the promotion of science. It would be seen that the most effectual patronage of learning is that which is derived from the public at large; and that the sciences, like commerce, are always worse for the interference of government. They resemble the sensitive plant, which shrinks from the touch of the purest and most delicate hand, but vegetates, flourishes, and perfectly unfolds itself, when left alone." p. 87.

The character of the duke of Sudermania, and his conduct during the regency, with the encouragement given to animal magnetism at Stockholm. The character of the present king of Sweden-the state of religion

the liberty of the press, which is represented as nearly annihilated, and the state of the arts and sciences.

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Chap. VI. Remarks on academies, or learned societies; and a description of those established by Lewis XIV, in France. The effect of opinions and theoretical principles upon the fate of nations. Illustrating the latter proposition by instances from history, the author observes, "Whoever reflects on the usual effect of literature and science to awaken the genius of liberty, by exciting a spirit of free discussion on all subjects, by preserving the memory of the ancient republics, by quickening the perception of right and wrong, and vindicating the dignity of human nature, will be apt to consider the introduction of the arts and sciences into despotic governments as a political incongruity; unless, indeed, it be the intention of the prince to ameliorate the condition of the people, and raise them gradually to a participation of political power, in proportion to their advancement in knowledge." p. 100, 101.

Having shewn how far the public opinion may be directed or influenced by learned societies, the author proceeds to display the characteristics of these societies, and describes the academy of Belles Lettres, and the Swedish Academy, naming their members, and stating their proceedings and prizes, concluding with an account of some Swedish poets.

Chap. VII. contains accounts of other learned societies, particularly the academy of sciences at Stockholm; the classes into which it is divided, with the names and characters of the members in each class. The collection of models and machines which display much ingenuity and utility. The disposition of the Swedes for the arts and sciences is noticed, and the author, treating of literary societies, observes, that "when they are more extended, when numbers of strangers are introduced, when they are honoured with public celebrity, and the countenance and interference of kings and princes, simplicity and sincerity of intention, mutual goodness, and a love of truth, are exchanged for vanity, pomp, and faction." p. 136.

tion in the Swedish Journals of a French revolution, either good or bad, He wished the people not only to be prevented from thinking of it, and reasoning about it, but as much as possible to be kept in the dark as to its very existence. The effects to be desired or dreaded in any country from the productions of the press, are, no doubt, in proportion to the degree and extent of education which the people at large have received. It does not follow, from the circumstance of the Swedes being all taught to read, and attached to established tenets a 4 modes of worship, that they should be an honest and good sort of people: this, however, is the case. The Swedes, I mean the peasantry, (for as to the inhabitants of towns, they are corrupt in proportion to their population, their commerce, and their luxury), are a frank, open, kind-hearted, gay, hospitable, hardy, and spirited people. It would be difficult to point out any nation that is more distinguished by a happy union of genius, bravery, and natural probity of disposition. They are represented by their neighbours as the gascons of Scandinavia. This charge, when due allowance is made for the mutual jealousy and antipathy of neighbouring nations, amounts to no more than this, that they are actuated by that sensibility to fame, and love of distinction, which generally predominate in the breasts of brave, generous, and adventurous people.

Chap. VIII. Institutions for the purposes of education in Sweden; parish schools, public schools, gymnasia, and universities. Accounts of the universities of Lund, Upsala, and Abo. Their professors and students; method of teaching, and things taught; with general remarks on the Swedish universities.

On the first article it is observed, "There is no country in the world in which greater provision has been made, and more pains taken for the advancement and diffusion of knowledge among all classes of society, than in Sweden."

Every parish has its school, in which The character of the Swedes is thus the common rudiments of reading delineated, after noticing that all the and writing are taught. Besides this, people, without exception, are taught there is a public school maintained to read, it is stated that "Gusta-in every large town, at the expence vus III. who kept a watchful eye on every event that might influence the state of society, interdicted all men

of the crown, in which boys continue till about their eleventh or twelfth year, when they are commonly sent

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