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trip over them with wonderful a. is extremely perilous, as appears from Droitness and facility. We wished to the following account: "To ascend give them our assistance in drawing in a small boat such a formidable their nets, and by a great exertion of succession of cataracts, where the courage we got almost over one third water is almost every where rolling of the palisade; but if one of my down in foam, would at first sigui companions had not desisted in time, seem impossible; but nothing is imhis head becoming giddy by the mo- possible to man, whom habits have tion of the water under his feet, he rendered familiar to danger. Those must have dropt into the river. The Finlandish Laplanders, besides aa children, and even the men them. address peculiar to themselves, have, selves, are sometimes too confident of what perhaps is of still more consetheir agility, so that scarce a year quence, the most perfect coolness passes without some of them falling in and apathy. They take their places, and being drowned, the current be the one at the head, the other at the ing too strong for a boat to be of any stern of their canoe, and with a long use to them.
pole, which they thrust to the bottom “ The address with which Finland- of the river, find their point of reers drive their stakes into the bottoin sistance, and thus push the boat of the river, at places where the cur- against the stream. This pole is rent is extremely rapid, deserves like- made of pine, and about fifteen feet wise to be noticed, as an operation long; they are obliged to throw it highly dangerous as well as difficult, with all their strength to the bottom, and to which those poor people in order to overcome the current, sometimes fall victiins.". p. 358, 339. which constantly impels it back
Chap. XXVIII. In this chapter the wards. It is an Herculean labour; hospitality of the clergy in this coun. besides, it requires infinite practice try is particularly commended, of to guide and manage the boat, form which a particular instance is given ing, as circumstances demand, many in the person of Mr Swamberg, head a sharp angle amidst a multitude of minister of Ofver Tornea, who in- obstacles. The most disagreeable, sisted that the whole company, con and at the same time the most dansisting of ten persons, should lodge at gerous situation, is the man resting his house, where they were treated by accident the end of his pole upon with the most unbounded hospita- a rock of a smooth or round surface; lity. Herefrom Mr. Cartrein deter- in the moment that he applies to it mined to return to his family, while the whole weight and force of his the rest of the travellers prosecute body, the pole slips from under him; their journey:
he falls in an instant headlong into Chap XXIX. They now proceed the river, and the passenger gives by water, and coming to a palisade himself up for løst. The Laplander, where the people had caught in the however, quickly recovers himself, course of the day three hundred and prepares to repeat the same opepounds weight of salmon, they bought ration ; but it sometimes happens one of the largest, and learned for the that the current gets the ascendant, time to eat it raw. The manner of and drives the boat astern. In this preparing it is “to cut it in pieces critical juncture the whole address of iranversely, and put it in salt; when the boatman is exerted to keep the salted, it is left in a wooden dish with head of the boat directly opposed to a little water; and after three days the stream, till he is again in a conthis raw salmon is delicious eating. dition to push her forward, and above It is a favourite dish with the first all to prevent her Jaying her side to nobility of Stockholm, insomuch that the current, as in that position, by they seldom give a fine dinner when presenting a larger surface to the raw salmon is not presented on the water, she would instantly overset." table. This kind of provision was a p. 373, 374. great resource to us during our navi. Chap. XXX. Arriving at Kengis, gation of the rivers, as we were able they are bospitably entertained by to preserve it a long time, and inight the inspector of the founderies, with easily dress it; at least as often as an account of which, a brief descripwe could find the necessary trifling tion of the country, and informing ingredients.” p. 372.
us of the separation of all his comThe passage by water on this rives panions except Colonel Skiolde.
brand, the first volume is con- here the river begins to assume a cluded.
regular form. The place is composed. Here Mr. A. informs us that the se. of fifteen or sixteen dwelling houses, paration of his companions had nearly and a church. The parish is about two shaken his resolution to prosecute hundred square miles in extent. his design; but his ambition to accom It is mentioned, to the honour of plish his end, and the ardour of the the inhabitants, that drunkenness is Colonel's mind, determined them to regarded by them as the inost scanpursue their journey.
dalous vice to which a man can be Volume II. An engraved sketch subject. of the North of Sweden, of Norway, Chap. III. relates some excursions Finland, and Lapland, describing the made by the travellers around Muorout of Mr. Ascerbi's Travels to the nionisca, and the collection of soine, North Cape, is prefixed to this vo- subjects in natural history. lume.
Chap. IV. relates their departure Chap. I. In this chapter we have from Muonionisca, and their stopthe commencement of the author's ping at a settlement or colony called travels in Lapland, and an account of Pallajoveniö, at a small distance from new difficulties, particularly in jour- the little river of Pallojobi, and which neying through a wood, where some. is the boundary of Lapland towards times they sunk so deep in the moss Torneä. In passing on to Lappajervig they were afraid of being inmersed our travellers halted upon a mountain in it up to their necks; and the pass- from whence they took a view of the ing of a tremendous cataract, where country, and give us the following the descent is so rapid that you ac. account of the food of the rein-deer. complish an English mile in the space " The country around offered of three or four minutes, and this is scene very uncommon, and to 118 rendered more dangerous by the quite new. The inoss on which the niany rocks which lay in this passage; rein-deer feeds covers the whole but they passed in safety by the skill ground, which is flat, and only skirted and perseverance of an old man who by bills at some distance ; but these was their pilot.
hills are also clothed with this moss. Chap. II. The last chapter no The colour of the moss is a pale yel. tices the departure from Rengis, ar low, which, when dry, changes to rival at Koliare, and the prosecution white : the regularity of its shape, of the journey to Muonionisca. In and the uniform manner in which the their way they found a little co- surface of the ground is decked with lony of Finlanders, which seemed it, appears very singular and striking : extremely poor, and by their particu, it has the semblance of a beautiful lar situation interested them much. carpet. These plants grow in a shape Their situation is described, and the nearly octagonal, and approaching to author notices that “ whoever is dis- a circle; and as they closely join. posed to establish himself in Lap- each other, they form a kind of Mo. land, has only to chuse his situation, saic work, or embroidery. The white but it must be at the distance of six appearance of the country, which miles from the bounds of the nearest thence arises, may for a moment make, village ; and the moment he has you imagine thai the ground is cobuilt his hut, all the land for six vered with snow; but the idea of a miles round him is his own by right winter scene is done away, by the of possession." p. 14. In describing ihe view of little thickets in full green, country, Mr. Ascerbi says, “The tra- which you perceive scattered here veller, who in his excursion visits this and there, and still more by the precountry in summer, will be enchant- sence of the sun, and the warmth of ed at every step he takes with the his rays. As this moss is very dry, siniling aspect of those hitls and nothing can possibly be more plealakes, and with the variety and soft- sånt to walk upon, nor can there be tiess of the pictures which present any thing softer to serve as a bed. themselves in succession to his eye." Its cleanness and whiteness is tempt. p. 14.
ing to the sight, and when we had Arriving at Muonionisca, the author put up our tent, we found ourselves gives the etymology of the name. in every respect very comfortably Aluonio is the name of the river, and · lodged. I bad many times before Bisca signifies beginning ; because met with this moss, but in no place
had I found it so rich. It was the to visit the families of these two Laponly produce here, which nature fand fishers, who had fixed their con. seemed to favour and support: no stant babitation there. We found other herb was growing near it, nor fires every where kept up: the pigs any other vegetable on the spot, ex had their fire, the cows had theirs; cept a few birch trees, with their un there was one in the inside of the derwood, and some firs, dispersed on house, and another without, close to the hill by the river side. All these the door. The Lapland houses are seemed to vegetate with difficulty, as not so large as those of the Finlandif deprived of their nourishment by ers. The door-way of the one we the moss, and appeared withering and saw here was only four feet bigh, so stunted. Some trees, indeed, which that we found it necessary to stoop grew very near the water, had the as we entered. We had left our tent appearance of being in a flourishing behind us, supposing we should fnd state, perhaps owing to the moisture accommodation to pass the night they derived from the river: but, in with the Laplanders, and that it short, this moss appeared to be the would at least be equally good as that royal plant, which ruled absolute over we had met with among the Finthe vegetable kingdom of the country, landers; but we found ourselves diss and distributed its bounty and in appointed : however we were forced Huence amongst a particular rače of to put up with what convenience the men and animals." p. 33, 34. people could offer us; and there.
“ We arrived at Lappajervi in the fore, when it was time to retire to evening, and our boatinen were glad rest, we were accommodated with to take some rest after their weari. rein-deer skins, laid over small birchsome voyage. When we arrived on en twigs and leaves, which were the borders of the lake, we fell in spread on the ground in a small with two Lapland fishermen, who had apartment filled with smoke. We returned from their day's fishivg, groped our way into our bed-chamand were preparing to pass the night ber, because the smoke hindered us there. We were guided to the spot from seeing any light.”.p. 34, 35. where they were by a large column Chap. V. The first thing we notice of smoke, which mounted into the is the arrival of our travellers upon a air. On approaching them we found little island called Kintasari, in the that they had besmeared their faces lake of Pallajervi, where they met with tar, and covered their heads with three fishermen who had erected and shoulders with a cloth to protect a kind of hut with boughs of trees, them from the musquetoes. One of and had bung up in it å quantity of them was smoking tobacco, and the fish to dry. The situation is thus other was securing the fish they had noticed. “When we looked round taken from the depredations of the us, we discovered nothing that reinsects. (This is described by an sembled any country we had hitherengraving) Their meagre and squa- to seen, and we seemed to be translid looks discovered evident signs of ported into a new world. The sun wretchedness. They were covered which shone upon us never sunk befrom head to foot by swarms of mus. low our horizon ; and we bebeld alquetoes, from whose stings their most no colour but white interminclothing scarcely shielded them. gled with green. These objects, They were melting with beat, yet joined to the habitation of the fisherthey durst not throw off their cover men, the novelty of the flowers which ing, much less remove from before ornamented the isle, that of the birds, the fire. Our arrival added millions which made the woods resound with of these flies to the myriads already their noies, all contributed to astothere, as their numbers were conti- dish our sevses, that had not anticinually increasing in our passage thi- pated such extraordinary scenes," ther. It was impossible to stand a P. 38, 39. moment still ; every instant we were Here they staid during three days forced to thrust our heads into the with much pleasure, and had their midst of the smoke, or to leap over attention particularly engaged by a the flames, to rid ourselves of our species of bird called the Sea Swalcruel persecutors.
low (sterna hirundo, Lin.). " The “We drew our boat ashore, and fucks of these birds announced the walked about a mile into the country return of the fishermen from their
Ebour long before we saw them companions resorted to the appointed These birds feed on the small fishes place of meeting, where they found which the fishermen east out to them, a “party composed of six men and or leave in the boats when they clear a young girl. We found them seated out the nets. There appeared to be under a birch-tree, on the branches an agreeinent and understanding be- of which they had hung up the protwixi the men and these birds, which visions for the journey, which condepend upon the fishery for sub- sisted of dry fish. They lay along the sistence and support during this ground in different postures, sucroundseason. They came duly at the same ing a large fire, by which they roasthour in the morning, as if to inform ed their fish, which for this purpose the fishermen it was time to begin was held in clest sticks cut from their work, and the latter needed no the tree which shaded them." p. 42, other regulator. The birds set off 43. with the boats, and served the fishers Anengraving accompanies the foreas guides in the prosecution of their going description. calling, by hovering over those parts “ The persons and dress of these of the lake where the fish were col. Laplanders, taken altogether, were lected in the largest shoals. The sight the most filthy and disagreeable that it of these birds is particularly keen, is possible to conceive. They held so that when the fishermen heard the fish they were eating in their their cries, and saw them plunging hands, and the oil that distilled from into the water, they knew those were it ran down their arms, and into the the most proper places to cast their sleeves of their cuats, which might pets in with a probability of success; be scented at the distance of some and herein they were sure not to be yards.” p. 43, 44. deceived; but, on the contrary, never A memorial is here recorded of an failed to take the most fish where atfectionate parting with the honest they were directed by the birds. The Finlanders, who accompanied our ksbermen had such an attachment to travellers from Meconionisca, and these swallows, that they expressed who could not restrain the tear of much uneasiness whenever we seen- affection at their separation. This ined desirous to take some of them by cident, says our author, appeared to way of specimens. The birds were give the Laplanders a favourable opibecome so tame and familiar that vion of us, and to excite their zeal to they would seize the small fish in the some exertion for our service, if it be nets, and even in the boats, in the possible to excite the least sentiment presence of the fishermen; and they in minds so torpid as theirs. They were so nimble in their flight, that if found these. Laplanders, extremely a fish was thrown up into the air they lazy, and excessively fond of brandy, vould dart down upon it, and catch for which they were continually askit in its desceut before it reached the ing. water. As the, fishermen appeared Chap. VI. In this journey the trato be apprebensive that they would vellers found the famous plant Angeleave them if a gun was to be fired lica, the chief luxury of the North, off, I made a trial of taking them by and which is deemed a very great means of a book and line. Accord- antiscorbutic. The inhabitants deingly I contrived to bury a huok in vour it with avidity, and Mr. Ascerbi the body of a fish, and holding the was very fond of it, and found the other end of the string, to throw the beneficial effects of eating it; he says, bait at some distance from me: but “I am fully convinced that I owe ta this contrivance was attended with no this plant the uninterrupted good success; for such is their keenness of health which I enjoyed during all the sight, that they discovered the de. time I was in those parts, where we vice, and though they seized the fish had nothing else for our subsistence they would not gorge it when they than dried or salted fish, the dried found it was made fast to a string." flesh of the rein-deir, hard cheese, p. 40, 41.
biscuit, and brandy; all heating and One of the fishermen went in search insalubrious aliments.” p. 50. And of some Laplanders to conduct the adds, “My companion, who bad no travellers on their journey, and find relish for this plant, was often trou. ing two families with whom he made bled with pains in his stomach and an engagement, Mr, Ascerbi and his with indigestion.".
They were so annoyed by mus. case and luxury at the expence of quetoes that it was not without the others, without taking the trouble, utmost difficulty they were able to like themselves, of following the rein. swallow a morsel of victuals. “They deer, or even being at the pains either were obliged to eat with gloves on; of fishing or hunting." p. 55. and at every morsel they put into Chap. VII. This chapter, which their mouths they were under the brings our travellers to Kautokeine, necessity of drawing aside the veils is chiefly occupied in contrasting that covered their faces with the the filth and indolence of the Lapgreatest circumspection, for fear of landers against the opposite qualities the insects entering along with their which they had observed as characrefreshments. In spite of all their teristics of the Fins. precautions the musquetoes were Chap. VIII. Describes the situasometimes swallowed together with tion of Kautokeino, which till the artheir viands. In order to be quit of rival of our travellers was considered so disgusting a sauce, they were com as wholly insulated in the summer pelled at each morsel they put into season, and inaccessible to travellers. their mouths to draw near the fré The surrounding district is described and thrust their heads into the rising in the Danish book of geography as a column of smoke." p.51.
country consisting of mountains seIn noticing the manners of these parated from each other by danger. people the author gives us a descrip- ous and impassable morasses : a de. tion of their “supper, which consist- 'scription of the difference of the ed of various fish cut into pieces and mode of life between the wandering boiled in a pot, together with some Laplanders and those who had fixed dried fat of the rein-deer, and a little babitations; their departure from this meal: the whole formed a curious place, and embarkation on the river kind of mess. While the pot was Alten, which affords them very beaustill on the tire, all the Laplanders tiful scenery. sat around it, each with a spoon in Chap. IX. The travellers pursus: his hand, for the purpose of tasting their route by water, and over inounwhen the soup was ready: when tains, on some of which they tind snow sufficiently boiled, they began to par- in the midst of summer, and have to take out of the same mess altogether. pass through a wood in which they When any one had taken as much as lose their way, and return to the very satisfied bim, he fell asleep; and when spot where they entered it; at last he awoke, he immediately began to they reach the habitation of a Noreat again while others slept, then wegian merchant, which alone comthese would awake and again cat, posed the village, so much longed for, while the former elapsed into his of Alten. slumber; and thus they alternately Chap. X. Here Mr. Ascerbi and eat and slept till they were satisted his companion have a view of the with the one, and incapable of taking Frozen Ocean, which penetrates far more of the other. There dül not into the land, and forms a considerappear to be any kind of rule or or. able gulf. This highly gratified them, der among these people; no begin to find they had so pearly accomning of any thing, and no end. Their plished their design; but were better only regulator and guide seemed to pleased with the hospitality and plenbe appetite and instinct.” p. 53. ty they found at the merchant's
Mr. Ascerbi never saw any evi- house. Upon enquiry they learned dences of regard to the Supreme Be. they were now thirteen Norwegian ing, or any kind of religion among miles, that is, above a hundred miles the Laplanders. They supposed that English, from the North Cape, and he and his companions were persons that it was impossible to go thither of some consequence sent by govern. by land, as this peninsula was de. ment to spy out their situation, and scribed to be one continuation of find out their wealth; they were in mountains intersected by lakes and consequence of their suspicions very morasses, which would intercept our, jealous of them, and represented progress at every step; it was therethemselves as very poor. The author fore determined we should go by says, “They look upon rulers and commissaries in no other light than They proceeded on this voyage in that of robbers, who like to live in an open four-oared boat, well furaish: