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FOR FEBRUARY, 1802.
XV. SKETCHES and OBSERVA- to understand the motive of our thus
TIONS taken on a Tour through the disturbing his pious avocation, which, South of Europe. By JENS WOLFF. however, at last perceiving, he de 410. PP. 251, boards. 18s. Richard- sired our visit might be adjourned to
the following day. Apologizing for the
interruption, and dropping some small 1785, by Mr. Wolff, in company Don Antonio to augment the treasure with Mr. Noring, secretary to the of the Holy Ghost, and repaired to Swedish minister at the British court. the venta, where a better reception It contains a brief description of the awaited us.". It is added, "the inns, principal places in their route, inter; termed posadas, or ventas, in Spain, spersed with historical sketches, and are much superior to those in Pora recital of occurrences displaying a tugal; but, without previously supvariety of characters they met with in plying the host with dinero, or money ; their journey
to go to market and purchase proviThe arrival at Lisbon, after a voye sions, the fare would be but indirage of eight days, presents us with an ferent. A charge is afterwards made account of the surrounding country, for cooking, trouble, and the use of as well as a brief description of the the cama, or room, and mattress.” P. city, and the manners of the Portu- 26; 27. guese. After a short stay, our travel. Leaving Bajados, the travellers pass lers set out for the capital of Spain. “Merida, (an ancient town, former -Several incidents are noticed on ly Emerita Augusta, the capital of the road between Lisbon and Madrid, Lusitania, and built by Augustus, among which is an adventure at Ba- but now nearly deserted; Miajadás, jados. Having received a letter of Truxillo, the birth place of Pizarro, introduction, the day before, to Don and come to Naval Moral, the first Antonio de Cantalaria, the chief ma- town in New Castile, where," says gistrate of Bajados, says our Author, Mr. Wolff, “ we took in some skins of ** we went in immediate search of this - wine, which proved agreeably 'reenlightened character, but found him, : freshing on the road. As it is unusual alas ? in dismal occupation, and by, to travel with wine-glasses, our muno means prepared to honour bís' Jeteer soon taught us the method of friend's recommendation. He was drinking from a leathern bag with a perambularing the streets; in one born-spout, without touching it with hand holling a lantern of substantial our lips. The distance the muleteers horn, iq the other a box, to which thus pour wine into their mouths at was attached a clamorous bell, and first appears surprising; it is, how. wholly occupied in requesting the ever, a cleanly practice, and, at the stray passengers to drop a few reals same time, renders the liquor cool. in honour of the Holy Ghost. On Water is usually carried in small red presenting our letter, the illustrious jars, which are frequently replenislibellman held out 'his box, and was .red, and closely stopped, to keep out some time before he could be made fies, inusquitoes, and other insects. Vol. I,
The land carriages, which convey ar. In Madrid, the use of chimneys is lit. ticles of merchandize, provisions, &c. tle known, braziers being preferred, on to the interior, are all drawn by oxen, which a kind of frankincense is continue chiefly of a white colour, of which ally strewed, which gives an excellent we frequently met fifty in a string odour.” Here the Author introduces Cheese is here made from goat's milk, the following occurrence: “ Although and hog's.lard used instead of butter. I had various letters of introduction Numerous droves of black hogs are a in this capital, some of which were great impediment to travelling in this of essential service to me, I cannot country." p. 30, 31.
avoid mentioning the reception I met Several other places are named, at with at the house of a banker. On one of which our Author notices the being shewn into an apartment, where prevailing superstition of the country; I waited a few minutes before I could observing, that the Spanish mules deliver my credentials, my attention are adorned with bells, which are was attracted by a sentence written marked with a crucifix. The motive in characters of gold on the wall, infor this is, “ that the devil cannot timating, 'that nothing could be come within hearing of the conse. more ennuyant to men of business, crated peal. From a similar precau. * than the visits of those who have little tion, the wheels of carriages drawn 'to do. This hint was too palpable by oxen in Portugal are seldom or to be mistaken; I threw my letter and never greased, the infernal spirits card on the table, and retired, as being said to hate all discordant Don Pedro was entering the room." sounds."
In the road from Madrid to Barcelo. Proceeding to Madrid, Mr. Wolff na, says Mr. W. “We saw about this describes the city, with the manners time a number of grasshoppers, or loand customs of its inhabitants, and custs, which inore in swarms, and in informs us, that their public amuse- some years are so fatal to vegetation, as ments are contined to the theatre to destroy the cultivation of an entire and bull-fights. Of the latter he gives province. They are headed by a para particular account. We have also a ticular one of the species, and thus description of the monastery of Es- not unaptly compared to an army. curial, which “ was dedicated to St. Premiumns are sometimes given for Lawrence, who suffered martyrdom extirpating these peruicious animals.” by being broiled on a gridiron. Every p. 67. part of the building is constructed From Barcelona, the journey is with reference to the instrument of pursued to Marseilles, through Cahis death. The main fabric itself netta, Girona, and Jonquiere, the bears that forin; it is also sculptured last town in Catalonia : after passing on the gates, painted on the windows the River Tet, our travellers ascend and ahtars, and marked on the sacer- the Pyrenean mountains, the scenery dotal habits. . . . . The front of the of which, the Author writes, “we building, exhibiting three hundred could not sufficiently adnaire. The windows, may give some idea of the road occasionally wound between splendour of the whole. It is here steeps, whose tops rose with increased the royal family occasionally reside. grandeur as we advanced, and some
The situation is very unfruitful, but times lay along the edge of precipices produces a kind of bastard granite in and declivities, dark with woods, that abundance. It seems to have been stretched downward into the narrow decided to bring the palace to the vallies, quarry, rather than materials from the “ Having now taken a farewell of datter to a spot more fertile and ap- the Spanish territories, we were, on propriate, and where a structure of entering France, stopped at Belle. such magnitude might have appeared garde by the officers of the customs, to greater advantage... When the who examined our passports and bag. court resides here, the Hieronymites, gage. Two pillars, on which are enin number about two hundred, re- graven the arms of France and Spain, move to the wings of the convent." together with a chain which crosses Added to this account is an extract the road, here mark the boundaries
from Twiss's Travels, specifying some of the two kingdoms on the summit of the relics, which are kept in high of the Pyrenees." p. 69;70. preservation in this place. p. 54. Taking their route through Parpigaan, Fiteaux, Narbonne, and Beze- gradually decreased. The streets are nas, their attention is engaged by now, from neglect, in many places, Montpellier.. A brief description of over-grown with weeds. The Arnó this place follows: " In the south of runs through the town; one of its France, nature has been prodigal of bridges, constructed of marble, anher bounties. From La Place de nually becomes the scene of a violent Peyrou, the views are so fascinating contest, ending in blows, to determine and attractive, that the spectator is which side of the river shall confer rivetted to the spot. On one side ap- rank and pre-eminence on its inha, pear the mountains of Cevennes, bitants during the following year, bounding Provence to the north-east, This custom, rendered sacred by its from whence also the Alps begin to antiquity, involves too much personal rear their lofty, heads, and seem to prowess and local prejudice to be prop the clouds ; on the other, an easily abolished,” p. 95. extensive valley stretches on to Rous. Florence is next noticed, from sillon. The towering Pyrenees crown. whence the route is taken through ed with pine or fir, distant rocks and Sienna to Rome. In traversing the intermingled woods, contrasted with Appenines, our Author details an adnearer scenes of softness and cultiva. venture with some Capuchin Friars tion, form a succession of prospects he met with at the Port-House at inexpressibly grand and delightful. Poggibonzi, who from his account, At a distance, the wide ocean, glitter. readily offered to him and his friends ing in the sun-beams, spreads a broad seats at their convivial board, and, surface of effulgent light." p. 72.
without the least reserve, joked, sang, Through Lunel, Nisines, Beauraire, and drank freely. We leave this ara and Aix, they arrive at Marseilles, ticle, as, from the way iu which it is and consider it " a gay scene of dis- written, it appears to us calculated to sipation." Quitting this place, they produce indifference to religion, and proceed through Toulon, Frejus, An- gratify the profane. tibes, and passing the river Var, soon Arriving at Monte Fiascone, the arrive at Nice: hiring a felucca, or wines of which place have a very large row-boat, in less than two days high reputation, “ we stopped (say's they find themselves at Genoa; from our traveller) at an inn rendered re whence, by another felucca, they markable by a circunstance, which make Leghorn, which is a place of the landlord took care to impress on considerable trade. Excepting "the our minds. A German count, called Grand Duke of Tuscany's palace, Johannes de Fourcris, travelling where the governor resides, the ar- through this part of Italy, some years senal, great church, and Jew's syna. : since, and being in the habit of send. gogue, which are the most remarkable ing his servant as an avant courier, buildings, the streets wear an indif. to ascertain the quality of the best ferent appearance, and have too com- wines in the country, gave him direcmercial an aspect to interest the tra- tions, wherever he found them excelveller, who surveys the face of a coun. Jent, to chalk Est upon the door of try more from motives of curiosity than the respective inus. The servant, gain.” The journey is pursued through who appears to have had some knowà delightful country to Pisa, “ whose ledge of the juice of the grape, was so deserted state still exhibits remains pleased with that of Monte Fiascone, of ancient grandeur, and is, to the that he triply obeyed the instructions reflective mind, a sad monument of he had received, and in large letters the instability of all human greatness. wrote · Est, Est, Esti' over the enThis town presents a mournful reverse trance of the osteria. of its former magnificence; it once " On the arrival of the German held a distinguished rank ainong the count, he was so much biassed by the free states of Italy, and several re- opinion of his domestic, that he maining edifices, though now in de- quitted not the tempting liquor till he cay, attest the power and splendour inade so extraordinary a sacrifice at to which it had arrived during the in- the shrine of Bacchus, that he absodependence of the republic. The lutely expired with the cup in his Florentines, however, conquering, and hand, filled with the intoxicating betaking, possession of this place in verage. During several subsequent 1406, its population and commerce years, it was the custom to pour two
barrels of this wine over the tomb. Turin, Chamberry, Lyons, and Paris, of the count, in consequence of the the Tour finishes with expressions of directions of his German heirs. Now, pleasure at beholding the white however, the money is distributed in clits of Dover rearing their proud a more beneficial manner among the heads above the ocean. poor of the village. A monument is erected to the memory of this son of Bacchus in the church of San Fla
XVII. TRANSACTIONS of the Society vius, on which this inscription is engraved
instituted at London for the Encou
ragement of Arts, Manufaktures, and Est, Est, Est,
Commerce; with the Premiums offered Propter nimium Est Johannes de Four
in the Year 1801, a Portrait of the cris Dominus meus mortuus est.'
late Owen Salusbury Brereton, Esg.by It is painful to us, to see a descrip- Evans, and nine explanatory plates, țion of this melancholy occurrence Vol. XIX. 8vo. 10s. 6d. Robson, wearing the smile of levity; we should White, Becket, Johnson, &c. have been gratified rather to discover the tear of pity accompanying this THE Preface, after stating the solemn lesson to the voluptuary.
views of the Society, contains A description of Rome, its environs,
some particulars of the Life of and manners, comes next under view, 0. S. Brereton, Esq. who long took As nothing occurs to us in addition to
a lively and active part in the conwhat we apprehend our readers are
cerns of the Society, as one of their in possession of, we forbear extract. Vice-Presidents, which office he ing from this part of the Tour. held from the year 1763 to 1798,
Leaving Rome, and passing through “ with great credit to himself and ad. Florence, among other things noticed vantage to the Society. He was the at Bologna is the “ Bononia stone.
son of Thomas Brereton, Esq. of the Mr. Barlow observes, that it is found County Palatine of Chester, and was about the Appenine mountains, and born in the year 1715. He received in Mount Pacierno, four miles from his education partly at Westminster Bologna. It is usually about the size School on the foundation, and partly of a walnut, of a light grey colour, at Trinity College, Cambridge. On and an uneven surface, impregnated the death of his father, he inherited the with sulphureous particles, and thought ancient family estates, in the abovepretty heavy, not very compact. lt mentioned county, and in Flintshire. shines in many places like spar, and • In 1738, Mr Brereton was called after violent showers of rain, which to the Bar, and, in 1746, became Rewash away the snow from the moun- corder of Liverpool, which office he tains, is often found. Before it is pro- filled with great impartiality and dig, perly prepared, there is no difference nity during fifty-two years. In 1796, between that and another stone ; but
on his proposing to resign, the Cor, by a particular calcination, and after- poration requested him to retain his wards by being exposed to the open situation, and appointed a person to day-liglit, it imbibes such a luminous discharge its active duties. quality, that during eight or ten mi.
“ Mr. Brereton was an early Mein. nuies it glows in the dark like a red ber of the Royal and Antiquarian hot coal; this may be repeated at Societies. The Archæologia of the pleasure. In some of the best of these latter contains bis Observations on stones, the fame of a candle will Peter Collinson's Account of the make it assume its lucidity. Moon- Round Towers in Ireland *; bis Tour shine does not make the least im- through South Wales t ; his Extracts pression on it, but the rays of the sun
from the Blousehold Book of Henry act too powerfully, by calcining it so
VIII ; bis Account of a painted winas to make it easily crumble. It re- dow in Brereton Church, Cheshire g; tains its luminous quality even when and that of a non-descript coin, suplaid in water. Its splendour usually posed to be Philip VI. of France 1. lasts three or four years, after which Mr. Pennant has also, in his Welch it may be calcineil again, but not Tour, described, and given an enwithout some diminution of light." p. 222, 223.
* Archæol. ii. 80. f Id. iii. 3. Id. üi. Alter visiting in the way, Modena, 15.1. S Id. 9, 368. ] Id. x. 03.