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The

It is of rare occur- For description of route from Martigny
to Chamounix, see Routes 5 and 6.
views going to Chamounix from Martigny
are considered finer by Route 6.

the new-fallen snow. rence that we hear of travelers perishing now in this region: the cases of being frozen to death do not usually exceed two a year.

The ground floor of the convent is devoted to stabling and store-rooms, the other floors to a drawing-room, refectory, officcs, and dormitories. The convent also contains a cabinet, in which is a fine collection of antiquities, minerals, plants, arms, and insects, also many relics from the temple of Jupiter, which formerly stood here. In the little church of the convent is a monument erected to General Desaix. "I will give you the Alps for your monument!" said Napoleon to his dying general after the battle of Marengo. "You shall rest on their loftiest inhabited point—in the Church of St. Bernard!"

It is customary for those who can afford it to put in a box in the chapel, provided for the purpose, an amount not less than would be charged to them had they put up at an inn for a similar entertainment, and all they put in extra will be well bestowed.

In a building near the hospice are the bodies of those who have perished in attempting to cross the mountains. They have all been found frozen, and are generally set up in this Morgue in the same position in which they were found, arranged along the wall, and presenting a fearful sight. In time they fall to pieces, after having dried up and withered, and their bones and skulls may be seen strewn along the floor. The evaporation at this height is so rapid that the flesh dries up without the usual decay.

ROUTE 5.-Chamounix to Martigny, via the Tête Noire. Carriages now the entire distance, the road having been finished from Argentière to the Hôtel Tête Noire in 1872.

This is one of the most frequented routes in Switzerland, as a very small percentage of travelers go by Route 4 to Martigny, and a large proportion do not enter the Alps at all, only coming from Geneva to Chamounix, thence to Martigny, Vevay, Lausanne, Interlaken, Lucerne, and Zurich.

By mule the time is 10 hours; fare, 12 frs.; guide, 12 frs., which includes the return fee. Mules are now seldom used on the route.

There is a difference of opinion among travelers who have crossed both by the Tête Noire and Col de Balme; but it is generally conceded that, going to Martigny, the Tête Noire route is preferable, and in coming from Martigny the Col de Balme should be taken. They both cross two cols-one by the vale of Chamounix, and the other to enter the valley of the Dranse, which leads to Martigny.

Passing along the Arve as far as Les Praz, the road crosses that stream; then, mounting a wooded defile, passes Tines and Les Isles, and again crossing the Arve, arrives at Argentière.

At Les Praz the road diverges to Arveyron and Argentière. Inns, Couronne and Bellevue. Here the magnificent glacier of The monastery comprises about forty the same name streams down from the members, some ten or twelve of whom are Aiguille d'Argentière, between the Aiinstalled at St. Bernard with seven attend-guille Verte and the Aiguille du Chardonants, whose duties are to receive and accommodate travelers gratuitously, and to render all assistance possible in case of danger or accident.

Some of the same society are located at the Simplon Hospice, while others occupy themselves in performing ecclesiastical functions.

From the Hospice to Martigny in 9 hours; by mule as far as the Cantine de Proz, thence by carriage to Martigny.

For description of route from the Hospice to Martigny, see Route 7.

net.

If the traveler have time to spare, both passes might be seen by making a detour to the top of the Col de Balme, and then direct to the inn of the Tête Noire. The extra time employed would be two and a half hours. The two roads diverge at Argentière.

The road now traverses a wild ravine, passes the hamlet of Trélechamp, and arrives at the summit of the pass, the Col des Montets, a portion of the Mont Blanc chain, 5000 feet high; the Col de Balme,

of the same chain, is 2000 feet higher. Near the road-side is a monument erected to the young Count des Ouches, killed here by an avalanche in 1861. Here is the watershed of the ridge, where one stream descends to the south to join the Arve, the other rushing to the north to mingle with the waters of the Rhone.

A little farther on the savage and barren valley of Bérard comes in sight, from which the Eau Noire descends and forms the Cascade de Bérard, to visit which takes an hour's time and one franc admittance. A short descent from the ridge leads to l'u'orcine, the principal village of the valley, and much exposed to avalanches. Its church and numerous houses have frequently been swept away. It has recently been protected by embankments.

hours to Martigny (two hours and a half in the ascent).

Martigny contains about 1300 inhabitants. Hotels, Clerc and Maison de Poste. It is lively for its size, owing to the numerous arrivals and departures daily. There travelers on their way to Chamounix by the Tête Noire or Col de Balme meet those crossing the Alps by the Simplon and Great St. Bernard. The convent of the St. Bernard monks, part of whom are stationed at the hospice on the pass, is within the town.

Excursions can be made to the Gorge of Trient and the Falls of Pissevache. See Route 42.

ROUTE 6.-Chamounix to Martigny, via the Col de Balme, or vice versa. Time by After a rapid descent, the Hôtel de la mule, 10 hours; mule, 12 frs.; guide, 12 Cascade Barberine is reached. This is half- frs.: the two routes combined, 15 frs. each. way to Martigny. Half an hour's detour From Chamounix to Argentière, see leads to the Cascade de Barberine. Cross-Route 5. From Argentière to Tour there ing the bridge over the Eau Noire, the is a carriage-road. At this hamlet cultifrontier of Switzerland and France is pass-vation ceases, and the source of the Arve ed, and the Hôtel Royal Chatelard reached, from which point a path to the left conducts to a new and attractive route to the Rhone valley, viz., via Triquent and Salvan to Vernayaz.

Route 5 keeps to the right, and after passing through a narrow defile richly clothed in vegetation, the Hôtel Tête Noire is reached. This is the usual haltingplace for travelers, and is situated in a magnificent position. Numerous exceedingly interesting walks may be taken from this point.

From this position the road turns suddenly to the right into the dark forest of Trient, and winding around the mountain thickly covered with trees, which forms the Tête Noire, unites with the road coming over the Col de Balme, after passing the village of Trient, where there is a small inn situated in a meadow, and in full view of the Glacier de Trient, the ice of which is much used for exportation on account of the purity of its composition.

The road now ascends to the Col de la Forclaz, a short distance below which a magnificent view of the whole valley of the Rhone is discernible, with Martigny almost at the feet of the spectator. Passing now through forests, meadows, and orchards, the road rapidly descends in two

is passed, but there is pasturage in plenty. Notice a large pile of stones on the route; this is called the Homme de Pierre, which serves as a landmark when the paths are covered with snow. A short distance farther the summit of the Col de Balme is reached; this pass is 7321 feet above the level of the sea. Hôtel Suisse, very good. In clear weather the view from this position is one of surpassing grandeur, the whole of the Mont Blanc range being visible; and the "Monarch" himself, surrounded by the Aiguilles d'Argentière, de Tour, de Charmoz, and others, is seen from base to summit, while enormous glaciers on every side stream into the vale of Chamounix below, while the retrospective view reveals the Jungfrau, the Gemmi, the Grimsel, and the Furca, to the left of which are the Aiguilles Rouges, the Brévent, and Buet.

The best point to enjoy this most gorgeous of views is at the Croix de Fer, an eminence nearly a mile from the hotel, in the direction of the Tête Noire.

[Good walkers might enjoy both the view from the Tête Noire and Col de Balme, returning to Martigny the same day. We would not advise, however, any of these excursions being made without a guide.] After descending in a zigzag manner

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through the Forest of Magnin and crossing the Nant Noir, the hamlet of Trient is reached; thence to Martigny by the Tête Noire road, as described in Route No. 6.

ROUTE 7.-From Martigny to the Hospice of Great St. Bernard. Most travelers who make the excursion to St. Bernard return by the same route, unless their intention is to cross into Italy.

The usual method of making this excursion is to take a carriage from Martigny to the Cantine de Proz, or the diligence from Martigny to Liddes; thence to the hospice by mule. The price of a carriage for one or three persons to Proz, with mule to the hospice, is 30 frs., including the fare back. From Proz by mule or on foot, time 2 hours -whole distance, 10 hours.

The Pass of St. Bernard is the least interesting of the different passes into Italy in a scenic point of view, but is the most remarkable in an historical and romantic one. Napoleon crossed here with his whole army in the month of May, 1800, occupying three days in the passage: the first day to St. Pierre; the second to St. Remy, on the Italian side; and the third to Aostaforty-seven miles of mountain, snow, etc., in three days! Then the world-wide reputation of the hospice, the monks, and their dogs, causes thousands to make this excursion who never pass into Italy. Travelers who visit Italy via the Alps must take their choice; we can only say that the Splugen, Simplon, St. Gothard, or Bernardin will be found much more magnificent.

Martigny is described in Route 5. The road, after passing through Martigny le Bourg, crosses the River Dranse, and then winds through a narrow valley to Le Brocard. The bed of the Dranse exhibits evidence of the fearful devastation caused in 1818 by the bursting of a lake in the valley of the Bagnes. Large blocks of ice from the Glacier de Gétroz had intercepted the course of the river, and formed a lake 3000 feet long, 600 wide, and 600 deep, which, bursting its barriers, carried death and destruction to the valley below.

After passing Bovernier, which owed its safety in 1818 to a projecting rock, the road passes through a tunnel 200 feet long, cut through the rock. Notice on emerging from the tunnel the ruins of a convent overwhelmed with rubbish when the lake

burst. Arriving at the confluence of the two rivers Dranse, the road passes Sembrancher. Inn, Croix. This town is three hours from Martigny and one hour and fifteen minutes from

Orsière. Hôtel des Alps. From Orsière there are roads leading to Courmayeur by the Col de Ferret and the Val d'Entrémont. Also to Chamounix by Trient. Mule, 12 frs., and return; guide, the same price.

The road now crosses the Dranse, and the scenery becomes more picturesque and wild. The snowy peak of Mont Velan is visible in the background, and five miles from Orsière Liddes is reached. This is the stopping-place for the diligence, and four and a half hours from the hospice. The Hôtel Union is a very fair inn. The price of a one-horse carriage to Martigny is 12 francs; mule to the hospice, six or seven.

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In one and a half hours St. Pierre is reached by a new road. Hotels, Au Déjeuner de Napoleon and Cheval Blanc: the former a very fair inn, where Napoleon breakfasted when crossing here in 1800, and where it was reported to him that it was hardly possible to transport the artillery through the depth of the snow. that is the case let us start at once," he said. The artillery carriages were here taken to pieces and packed on mules, while the guns were placed on sledges, and dragged by the soldiers across the pass. The men were paid $240 for each gun taken over, and they were entertained at the summit by the monks.

St. Pierre has a church which dates from the eleventh century, and a column dedicated to Constantine the younger; still it is a miserable, dirty village.

Leaving St. Pierre, the road crosses a deep gorge, through which the Dranse forces its way, and several fine cascades are passed. The road is here hewn out of the solid rock; after which

Cantine de Proz is reached. Here the carriage-road terminates, and mules to the hospice, or carriages to Martigny, may be obtained.

The ascent of Mont Velan is often made from this place. Its summit is 12,350 feet above the level of the sea. The time required to make the ascent is six hours, and five for returning; two guides are necessary. Dorsat, son of the landlord of the

hotel, is highly recommended as a guide. The charge is 25 frs for each guide.

The bridle-path, after crossing the pastures of the Plan de Proz and the Défilé de Marengo, passes two stone huts, the one a refuge for cattle, the other the old Morgue, where the bodies of travelers who had perished in the snow were kept. The scene now becomes more desolate and dreary; another ravine is passed, and then the iron cross, twenty minutes from the hospice, erected to the memory of Père François Cart, who here perished in the snow in 1845. The summit is now approached, and the solitary walls of the hospice appear on the very crest of the pass.

Hospice of St. Bernard. See Route 4.

ROUTE 8.-Martigny to Aosta, via the Val de Bagne and Col de Fenêtre.

This is rather a hard route for ladies, and if gentlemen travelers have not crossed the other passes, we would not advise going this way.

There is a carriage-road as far as Champsec, fifteen miles from Martigny, and from Valpellina to Aosta, on the other side, a distance of eight miles; the remainder is a bridle-path, when mules must be taken, else walk. The walking time is 21 hours. A guide is necessary, and his price is 18 frs. The road to St. Branchier is the same as that described in Route 8, going to St. Bernard; distance, seven and a half miles. It then crosses the east branch of the Dranse, and passes through a well-cultivated mountain basin to Chablais, a picturesquely situated hamlet. Hôtel Perrodin.

A road from this place passes over the Col d'Etablon to Riddes.

Beyond Fionnay th road passes through scenes of the wildest description, the river still roaring past; then crossing the bridge of Mauvoisin, opposite the glacier of Gétroz, brings the traveler to the Hôtel Gétroz, situated in one of the grandest spots in Switzerland.

Passing Gétroz, the path crosses the bed of the valley of Bagne, the scene of the fearful catastrophe in 1818, and terrible traces of this event may be seen in every direction. Above may be seen the dreadful but magnificent Glacier of Gétroz, which has sent its boulders down in masses measuring 1400 cubic feet. Works, however, have recently been completed which direct the force of the river against the face of the ice, thus reducing the glacier as fast as it descends.

The Glacier de Breney now becomes visible, also that of Mont Durand, both streaming into the valley. Crossing this last, the traveler arrives at

Chermontane, situated at the foot of the Glacier d'Olemma. This is a species of Alpine farm, where refreshment may be procured. After a rapid ascent of two hours from Chermontane, the summit of the Col de Fenêtre is reached, the glacier of the same name crossed, and Italy is seen in all its beauty from the other side, at a height of over 9000 feet above the level of the sea. It was across this pass that Calvin fled from the town of Aosta in 1541. The ascent of Mont Avril may be made from this pass in two hours.

Skirting the base of Mont Gelé, the descent commences, which is long and fatiguing (four hours), to Valpellina; thence by carriage-road to Aosta in two and a half

In the distance are seen the Glacier de hours. Gétroz and Mont Pleureur.

A handsome drive of three miles brings the traveler to Champsec. The ascent now becomes steep, and the village of Lourtier is passed, the road continuing through much grand scenery. The River Dranse dashes down in its wild career, forming numerous waterfalls. At one spot the river rushes through a narrow gorge with fearful rapidity, while from the Corbassière glacier tumbles a wild cascade.

The path now passes through some forest lands, bringing us to Fionnay, which is situated in a beautiful position. There is a small inn here.

ROUTE 9.-From Bex to Sion, via the Col de Cheville. This is a highly interesting, though fatiguing and difficult excursion, its principal attraction being to witness the effect of the Berg-falls, or mountain slides, and the fantastic and savage grandeur of the route.

The time occupied is 11 hours. A guide is necessary; price, 12 francs; price of horse, 20 francs. The better plan is to take a carriage to Gryon; thence a mule to the summit, 7 francs. The descent is too difficult to make mounted.

In ascending from Eex (described in

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Route 42) to Gryon, a magnificent view of | The path is of this description for nearly the splendid snow-fields of the Dent du Midi two miles, and although severe on persons may be had. The route rises in zigzags, of a nervous tendency, is without danger, and passes through woods, meadows, and unless from falling stones, which is a risk orchards to Gryon, a pretty and interesting one must run. village situated on the slope of a mountain. Inns, Sauzet and Croix Blanc.

After leaving Gryon, the road keeps above the river, passing through meadows and groves of fir, until it arrives at Anzeindaz, two hours from Gryon, where the carriage-road ceases. Numerous glaciers are visible in every direction, as the traveler, crossing the green pastures, and under the precipices of Diablerets, arrives at the Col de Cheville, 6680 feet above the level of the This is the line which separates the cantons of Vaud and Valais. The road now descends rapidly past the Chalets de Cheville to the lake of Derborence, which is surrounded by scenery of wild and savage grandeur, and the valley filled with the débris of fallen mountains. The place was once considered by the ignorant peasantry as the "Vestibule of Hell."

sea.

The lower strata of the mountains becoming soft from having been saturated with water flowing from the glaciers, were in this manner undermined, and on two different occasions, in 1704 and 1749, became detached, and were hurled into the valley below, in some instances to a distance of six or seven miles, while the entire district was shaken as with an earthquake. Writers who give this reason for the catastrophe must ignore the statement that the fall was preceded for several days by subterranean noises. The falls were either caused by earthquakes, or from the natural cause of being undermined.

The channel of the River Lizerne was so much obstructed by the débris that two lakes were formed by its waters. One has since dried up; the other is the Lake Derborence of to-day.

Some fifty chalets were carried away, a few lives lost, together with a large number of cattle.

The road keeps to the west of the lake, and the traveler for the space of an hour passes over quantities of fallen stones and other débris. Arriving at the Saut du Chien, the path becomes three and a half feet wide, mostly cut along the face of the rock and overhanging the river, which rushes along twelve hundred feet beneath.

The ridge of the Diablerets is over ten thousand feet above the level of the sea. It had originally five peaks, three of which have fallen into the valley beneath. With the others it is simply a question of time.

Arriving at the end of the river gorge, and the Chapel of St. Bernard, the valley of the Lizerne is left, and that of the Rhone below appears in all its beauty. Descending rapidly, the road leads past Avent and Erdes to Conthey, one of the noted vinegrowing villages of the valley; thence to the River Morge, which is here crossed, and out on the high-road about three miles from Sion. See Route 14.

ROUTE 10.-From Sion to Evolena, via the Val Hérens and the Col de Torrent to the Val d'Anniviers.

This is an excursion but rarely made, as nearly all its beauties may be seen from the route from Visp to Zermatt, which most travelers make. It is made principally by pedestrians, who wish to remain some time at Evolena to make numerous interesting excursions from that point, consisting principally of mountain climbing and glacier crossing.

To Evolena there is a carriage-road. A distance of fifteen miles from that across the Col de Torrent and into the Val d'Anniviers requires twelve hours. There are numerous guides at Evolena, who have a fixed tariff for the different excursions. Porters can be obtained for six francs per day.

Half a mile from Sion the road commences its ascent, and leads along the bank of the rapid Borgne. To the left is seen the noted Hermitage of Longeborgne, cut out of the rock, and inhabited by two monks; beyond which rise, in all their grandeur, the Dent d'Hérens, Dents de Veisivi, and Dent Blanche. The road continues on a level to the entrance of the wild and unfrequented valley of Hérémence, where, ascending, it crosses the Dixense, passing the curious pyramids of Euseigne, to the Chalets de Prajean, when crossing the Borgne it descends into the valley of

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