er that time until the end of the season | débris, brought down by the torrents, which nightly. The first night the tourist is completely inundated and destroyed the charged one frane on his bill toward pay- village during the present century; it has ing for the illumination. Persons not stop- also been twice destroyed by fire. ping at the hotel pay 1 fr. 50 c. to witness the display. A bell rings to prepare the visitor, and the display commences by the discharge of a rocket. The falls consist of seven cascades, and are considered the prettiest in Switzerland, on account of the shrubbery through which they break-looking more like artificial than natural falls. The upper fall is some forty-five minutes distant from the hotel, and can be reached by a romantic path. Its height is nearly two hundred feet. An iron bridge connects the two sides of the brook. Behind the second fall is a grotto, whence visitors watch the curious appearance of the landscape as seen through the water. A walk should be taken to the Rauft, a short distance above the hotel. This is an almost perpendicular hill, which rises from the lake to a height of nearly one thousand feet. Fine view. From Giessbach to Brienz by steamer or row-boat; time by the latter, 25 minutes. Brienz. See Route 25. Brienz to Meiringen; time, 1 h. 30 m. See Route 27. Meiringen. See Route 27. Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier; time, 10 h. 30 m.; horse there and back, 32 frs. To Handeck and back, 15 frs. The carriage-road only extends as far as Imhof, a distance of one hour, beyond which is a well-worn bridle-path. After passing Meiringen the valley of Hasli contracts, and a wooded limestone ridge is crossed, called the Kirchet; and traversing a rich meadow the village of Imhof is reached-Hôtel Imhof. This is the principal village in the valley, and where the route to Wasen, across the Susten Pass, diverges. Urbachthal and Gauli Glacier can be reached from here in twelve hours. After passing through a long defile, the valley of Hasli again expands, the river is crossed, and, ascending through the meadows, the hamlet of Guttanen is reached. There is a small inn here, the Bär. The village, which is poor, is situated in an extensive basin surrounded with stones and The path still ascends for one and a half hours through a forest, and reaches Handeck, the usual midday stoppingplace to rest both man and mule. The inn is very good, and the place notorious from its proximity to the "Fall of the Aar," or Handeck Falls, which is considered the finest cataract in Switzerland, taking into consideration the wildness of the surroundings, the depth of the fall (about two hundred and fifty feet), and the vast volume of water, the surface of which remains unbroken until half-way down, when it is joined in its descent by an entirely different stream, the Erlenbach, flowing in from another direction, and mingling with the Fall of the Aar, which latter, as if indignant at the interruption, then lashes itself into a fury, and thus arrives on its rocky bed, forming a cloud of spray, and creating beautiful rainbows during the sunshine. A small bridge has been erected immediately above the fall, where only it can be seen to perfection. Admittance, 50 c. Continuing through the forest of fir, which now becomes dwarfish and stunted, the Hähle Platte is crossed. This is a mound of polished granite, where in former years the glacier crossed, and which is completely furrowed by the action of the ice and stones. The name of the late Professor Agassiz, of Harvard, may be seen here cut in the rock. On the other side of the valley is the Gelmerbach Fall, coming from the Gelmerhorn glacier, or Gelmersee, which may be visited from Handeck. From Handeck to the Grimsel Hospice, a distance of two and a half hours: there are but two habitations, the châlets of Räterisboden, situated in a basin below the Grimsel, one hour from that point. Passing now through a glen above the banks of the Aar, and crossing that stream, the Hospice of the Grimsel is reached. This is a large, sombre-looking building, built of rough masonry, and of considerable strength for the purpose of resisting the avalanches. [It was completely crushed by one on March 22, 1838; the only occupants, a man and dog, escaped by crawling through the snow, and reached Meiringen in safety.] The Hospice was formerly a conventual es- guard the pass against the French, thirtytablishment, built for the purpose of render- five hundred of whom were stationed in the ing aid and shelter to poor travelers cross-valley below, under the command of Gening the pass. After the Reformation, the neighboring communes kept it up for the same purpose. It is now, however, used as an inn by crowds of summer tourists; and as many as three hundred persons have met there during the same day, going and coming from different directions. The cells contain about fifty beds for the accommodation of tourists who wish to remain over night. The Hospice is occupied by one servant and two dogs from November to March, and by the innkeeper the rest of the year, as it is much resorted to by traders from the different valleys. There is a small meadow where the cows of the Hospice find scanty fare for two months. As the spot is 6000 feet above the sea, the vegetation is naturally limited. The barren basin in which the Hospice is situated lies about 1000 feet below the pass which connects the valley of Oberhasli with the Upper Valais, and is surrounded by walls of sloping granite and broken rocks, varied with patches of snow and moss. Near the house is a small lake which never freezes, being supplied with warm springs at the bottom. The building was burned down by the landlord (62 years of age) in 1852 for the purpose of getting a renewal of his lease. Instead of a lease of the Hospice, he got one for twenty years in a building not much more gloomy, but furnished gratis by the cantons. The sources of the Aar, the Unter-Aar Glacier, and the Ober-Aar Glacier, lie to the west of the Hospice. A bridle-path leads to the foot of the former in two hours. There have been numerous investigations of a scientific character made in regard to glaciers at the Ober and Unter Aar. A hut was built on the lower glacier by the naturalist Hugi in 1827, which in thirteen years traveled about one and a quarter miles. In this hut the late Professor Agassiz resided for some time at the request of the King of Prussia, making scientific investigations in regard to the theory of glaciers. The basin of the Hospice was the scene of a deadly struggle in 1799. The Austrian commander Strauch was stationed here with nearly two thousand picked troops to eral Gudin. Both commanders thought the position impregnable. Gudin, however, received a peremptory order from Massena to force the passage at all risks on the 14th of August. The landlord of the Guttanen hotel undertook to guide four hundred of the French troops over the mountains and almost impassable glaciers. Grätli, Gerston, and Gelmer were crossed, and the summit of the Grimsel was reached, above and in the rear of the Austrian forces. The main body then attacked the Austrians in front; and their leader, thinking himself perfectly secure in the rear, drew down his whole force to repel the charge, when suddenly they were attacked from the heights by the French flanking party. The result was a panic and flight in the direction of Obergestelen, leaving behind their dead and dying. The French troops then passed immediately over into the Rhone valley. The Galenstock, 11,956 feet above the sea, is often ascended from the Hospice in about six hours. The Rhone Glacier is reached in two hours from the Grimsel. A steep bridlepath, marked by stakes, indicates the path to the summit, which occupies one hour. Just south of the pass lies the small lake called Todtensee (Lake of the Dead), so called from being the only burial-place for the Austrian and French dead slain in the battle of the 14th of August, 1799. This is the boundary-line between the cantons of Berne and Valais. The Furca road leads to the east, passing the lake on its northern side, and descends a commanding slope, whence there is a magnificent view of the Rhone Glacier, the grandest of all the Swiss glaciers, the birthplace and fountainhead of the mighty River Rhone, which empties its waters into the Mediterranean, five hundred miles from the "Pillar of the Sun." This immense glacier, which lies between the Gelmerhorn and Gersthorn, and completely fills the valley from side to side, is nearly fifteen miles in length. It was supposed originally that the three warm springs which rise in the vicinity of the hotel were the real sources of the Rhone, and to which the inhabitants gave the name of Rhodan (the Rhodanus of the ancients). These springs, which are warm, certainly mingle with the glacier's water, and lend a helping hand to drain Lake Leman. The source of the Rhine, which runs in an opposite direction, is east nearly thirty miles, and takes its rise in the glacier of Rheinwald, amid the highest peaks of the Adula range. The Hôtel du Glacier du Rhone is, like the Grimsel Hospice, a noted centre, where tourists meet at table d'hôte. Here travelers stop who have just crossed the Furca Pass on their way to the Rhone valley; also to Meiringen, both from the Rhone valley and Lucerne. The new carriage-road over the Furca Pass was finished in 1867 by the Swiss government, and is not only an admirably built road, but one of the most interesting routes in Switzerland, and the only one of its length which brings you directly into the heart of the Alps, amid their towering peaks, their glorious glaciers, and yawning crevasses. The ascent of the Galenstock, 11,900 feet high, should be made from the Hôtel du Glacier du Rhone; guide, 10 frs. The Furca Inn can be reached in a direct line from the Rhone Glacier by taking the old mule-path, via Realp, Hôtel des Alps. This is, however, nearly four miles from the diligence-road. For description of route from the Rhone Glacier to Andermatt, see Route 42; and from Andermatt to Lucerne, see Route 34. ROUTE 29.-Lucerne to Stans, Engelberg, Sarnen Pass, and back via Altorf and Lake Lucerne; time, 15 hours, viz.: steamer three times daily to Stansstad, in 30 minutes; omnibus from Stansstad to Stans, in 20 minutes; thence to Engelberg (good carriage-road), walking, 4 h. 30 m.; by carriage, in 2 h. 30 m.; from Engelberg to Altorf, by horse, in 8 h. 30 m.; thence to Flüelen, and by steamer to Lucerne, in 2 h. 45 m. The road to Engelberg gradually ascends, by the banks of the Aa, over a rich meadow, and passing the ancient Castle of Wolfenschiessen and the village of Grafenort -which latter, with its farm, belongs to the Abbey of Engelberg-reaches Engelberg. Hotels: Titlis, Engelberg, Engel, and Sonnenberg, all at low rates, en pension. This town, which is situated 3400 feet above the level of the sea, has for centuries been noted for its healthy position, bracing air, and beautiful landscape, as well as for its Benedictine abbey, which was founded in 1120 by Pope Calixtus II., who named it Mons Angelorum, giving as a reason that angels had fixed the site. It was destroyed by fire three times, the present building dating from the commencement of the last century. The monastery is independent of any bishop or other clergy, the Pope alone being proprietor. Its revenues were at one time exceedingly large, the entire district belonging to it, but were much reduced by the French in 1798. It has still, however, extensive farms and farm-buildings, and a cellar-the sight of the place-generally filled with cheese. The church contains several fine modern pictures by Deschwanden, and the library comprises numerous valuable manuscripts and some fine specimens of early printing. Hours of admittance can be ascertained at the hotels. The excursions in the vicinity are numerous, the principal being the ascent of the Titlis, which overhangs this lovely valley. This mountain, which rises 10,627 feet above the sea and 7227 feet above the town, can be ascended in eight hours, but the summit can be reached in six and a half hours from the Engstlen Inn, in crossing the Joch Pass from Meiringen to Engelberg. [This pass is practicable for horses, and occupies ten hours. There is, however, no particular object in crossing it, especially if the ascent of the Titlis is made from Engelberg.] If making the ascent from Engelberg, the tourist should start the night before and ride as far as the Trübsee-Alp, a distance of two and a half hours, and rest there until two o'clock A.M. The general plan adopted is to start from Engelberg at midnight. The excursion is one that will well repay the traveler, the view being far superior to that from the Rigi. The Passes of the Storregg and Jöchli to Sarnen can also be made from Engelberg; time, 6 hours. An excursion should be made to the Fall of Tatschbach (if not going to Altorf), one hour from Engelberg; also to the top of the Horbis-Thal, one and a half hours. Pedestrians should make excursions over the Uri-Rothstock to Isenthal, on Lake Lucerne; also to Stein via the Wenden Glacier. From Engelberg to Altorf requires about eight hours; if snow has lately fallen, one or two hours more should be allowed. The Fall of Tatschbach, mentioned above, can be reached on the route to Altorf, beyond which is the dairy of Herrenreuti, belonging to the abbey. It is here the abbey butter and cheese are made. An hour farther the road passes the beautiful cascade of the Stierenbach, when the stream is crossed. In one and a quarter hours the Surenen Pass, which separates the Blackenstock from the Schlossberg, is crossed. During the ascent the Titlis increases in beauty and grandeur at every step. After descending across a tract of snow, and passing the chalets of Waldnacht, the path descends into the remarkable ravine of Bockishlund, through the valley of the Reuss to Rübshausen, one hour from Altorf. For Altorf and Flüelen, see Route 34. the Bernese and Engelberg Alps in full view, and, passing the ruins of Neu-Habsburg (a castle once the property of the Austrian imperial family), arrives at Küssnacht, distant seven and a half miles from Lucerne. Hotels, Du Lac and Schwarzer Adler. It is a small village of no importance but as a landing-place for passengers between Zurich and Lucerne. Horses and guides are furnished for making the ascent of the Rigi, which occupies three and a half hours from this point. In taking the steamer from Immensee to Arth, the left-hand road must be taken if proceeding to Arth; by carriage, the right hand, which latter skirts the banks of Lake Zug until it arrives at Arth. Two miles beyond Küssnacht the road passes through the "Hollow Way." On the right is seen Gesler's castle. Leaving the "Hollow," Tell's chapel (?) is seen by the road-side. This old chapel was restored in 1834. It is ornamented with a rude representation of the death of Gesler. Here, tradition says, in the Hoble Gasse of Schiller (the Hollow Way), Tell, after escaping from the boat on the lake, lay in wait for Gesler as he was returning to his castle, and shot him with his unerring bow. Some people are unroROUTE 30.-Lucerne to Schwyz, via Küss-mantic enough to disbelieve that Gesler nacht, Arth, and Goldau, and back to Lucerne via Brunnen and the Lake; time, 7 hours, viz.: Lucerne to Küssnacht in 50 minutes by steamer; Küssnacht to Arth, diligence, 1 hour; Arth to Schwyz, diligence, 1 h. 30 m.; Schwyz to Brunnen, on Lake Lucerne, diligence, 2 hours; Brunnen to Lucerne, steamer, 1 h. 40 m. Since the Rigi railway was completed from Vitznau to the Kulm, nearly all travelers make the ascent of the Rigi from Lake Lucerne side, consequently this route (30) should be taken, as it will be the only method of visiting the places on the east of the mountain, formerly so well known before the opening of the railway, as nine tenths of the tourists previously made the ascent from Arth. Carriages can be hired to make this route from the landlords of the Schweizerhof, to whom the editor would refer all travelers, as he knows none more liberal, honest, and obliging on the Continent. Carriage to Küssnacht in 45 minutes. The road keeps in sight of the lake, with ever lived here, and that they can prove their statements. But has not Schiller said so? Then why not credit it? And is not William Tell's chapel there to prove it? Before reaching Immensee (Hôtel Rigi), the carriage-road, as before stated, keeps to the right. Tourists for Zurich or Arth by steamer embark at Immensee. A little over five miles from Küssnacht is Arth or Art. Hôtel du Rigi. This village was formerly noted for being the point where the majority of tourists began the ascent of Mont Rigi; it is now shorn of a large proportion of that traffic. The treas ury of the church contains a crucifix and chalice of silver, which were left by Charles the Bold on the battle-field of Grandson. Two miles farther is Goldau. Hôtel Rössli. This town still remains noted for being the scene of the fearful land-slide of the Rossberg. On the façade of the church, erected on the site of the old edifice which was swept away, are two tablets of black marble re cording the names of some of the ill-fated | The small island of Schwanau was comvillagers who perished during the catastrophe. This portentous and terrible event occurred here on the 2d of September, 1806, when a large portion of the side of Mount Rossberg toward Goldau, nearly three miles long, one thousand feet broad, and one hundred thick, became detached from the mountains and plunged down the declivity with the velocity of a cannon-ball, engulfing the greater portions of the villages of Goldau, Rothen, Bussingen, and Hueloch, and plowing up the fields, woods, and houses for miles around, crushing nearly five hundred human beings, and destroying a million dollars' worth of property. Nothing was left of the village of Goldau except the bell, which hung in the church steeple, and which was found over a mile distant from its former locality. The village was buried one hundred feet beneath the rocks. The Lake of Lowerz was so filled up with mud and stones, although five miles distant, that the water rose some seventy feet, submerging the island of Schwanau; and, when the waves receded, houses, barns, and flocks were swept into the lake. Some houses were hurled down over two thousand feet, and the inmates escaped unhurt. A young child was found lying on its mattress in the mud perfectly unharmed, with no trace of the house whence it escaped to be found. It only took five minutes to transform this lovely valley into a field of desolation. The anniversary of the occasion is celebrated in Arth by a religious ceremony. Notice, if ascending the Rigi from this point, that, some distance up from its base, it is strewn with rocks of the Rossberg, driven up by the violence of the fall. The road to the village of Lowerz, a distance of two miles, exhibits evidence of the terrible catastrophe. Lowerz (Hôtel Rössli), situated on the small lake of the same name, suffered considerably from the Rossberg land-slip. The church and many of its houses were destroyed. The lake, now three miles long, and three quarters of a mile broad, was reduced one quarter in extent in consequence of the amount of rubbish which fell into it. Its waters rose to a height of eighty feet, destroying every thing on the opposite shore. pletely inundated. On this island there are the remains of an ancient castle, destroyed by the Swiss confederates at the beginning of the 14th century. Tradition says that its lord became enamored of a young and lovely maiden belonging to the people, and that she, repulsing the advances of the wealthy noble, was by him waylaid, and confined within the castle walls, when the people rose en masse and pulled his castle down about his ears, since which time, once a year, fearful cries are heard coming from the island, when the spirit of the injured maiden, bearing aloft a flaming torch, is seen pursuing that of her destroyer. She, being an angel of light, naturally comes up in time with the accused ghost, who is dragged down to the bottom of the lake amid his fearful screams. What she does to him there has not yet been recorded. Seewen (Hôtel Rössli), at the end of the lake, possesses a chalybeate spring. The water is strongly impregnated with iron, and is considered very efficacious in many diseases. There is a road from Seewen to Brunnen, one and a half miles more direct than that of Schwyz, but not so good. Schwyz (hotels, Rössli, Rediger, and Hirsch), contains 6200 inhabitants, all Roman Catholics. This town, which is finely situated about three miles from Brunnen, on Lake Lucerne, which is its port, is the capital of the canton of the same name, and is one of the most ancient in the confederacy. It is considered the heart of Switzerland, as from it the republic takes its name, although all the three forest cantons received the name of "Schwyzers" after the battle of Morgarten, in which they so signally distinguished themselves. This people were unknown to the nations of Europe until the commencement of the 13th century, when the monks of Einsiedeln received a grant from the pope of all the lands the natives possessed as "vacant lands." The Schwyzers, however, maintained their right at the point of the sword, until they were formally acknowledged by Frederick II. The Parish Church, a very handsome building, was completed in 1774. Adjoining it is a small chapel, called the Kerker, erected in great haste for the purpose of |