all over Spain, wherever a stationary work of art has suffered any damage, however slight, "the French did it!" Our experience is that the French treated their enemies much better than the English did their allies; and this oft-repeated story, "the French did it," is all "bosh!"

Surrounding the monument are 24 bronze statues, of the heroic size, not colossal, and represent principally male and female members of the house of Austria. They were modeled during the earlier portion of the 16th century, and are most exquisitely executed. They commence with Clovis of France and end with Albert II., emperor of Austria. The artists were Gregory Löffler and the brothers Godl.

The sacristan will now conduct you to the Silver Chapel, so named from a statue of the Virgin in silver which it contains. The altar-piece is of the same metal. It was erected by Ferdinand II. while living, as a mausoleum for himself and his beautiful wife, Philippine Welser of Augsburg, who was considered the handsomest woman of her day. The effigy of Ferdinand is of white marble, and is attributed, as well as the bas-reliefs which represent the principal events in his life, to Alexander Colin. The 23 small bronze statues of saints are supposed to represent different members of the house of Austria.

On your left, as you enter the church, notice the statue or monument of André Hofer. His remains were brought from Mantua in 1823, where he had been shot by order of Napoleon. The statue is by Schaller, and represents him as a Tyrolese peasant, with a rifle on his shoulder and a banner in his hand. The history of this patriot is short and exciting. He was an innkeeper on the River Passer, near Meran, when, in 1808, Austria declared war against France, and, being a man of fine address, noted for his honesty, piety, and eloquence, he soon gained complete command over the passions of his countrymen, who, under his leadership, drove in a single year the enemies of his country five times from her lovely valleys. In July, 1809, in consequence of the armistice of Znaim, the Austrian troops withdrew from the Tyrol, leaving the inhabitants to take care of themselves. Hofer was appointed leader of all the forces. The following month the French were defeated in attempting to

cross the Brenner Pass. Three days later, and the great battle of Isel Berg was fought, when Hofer was again victorious, and, with a much inferior force, compelled the French to evacuate the Tyrol, when Hofer makes a triumphal entry into Innspruck, is placed at the head of the Tyrolese government, and occupies the royal palace. He remained six weeks, dressing as he formerly dressed, in his peasant's costume, and not costing his government over $5 per day for his personal expenses. The Emperor of Austria sent him a golden chain and ennobled the family, granting Hofer a coat of arms. The following month, Napoleon having re-enforced his army in a powerful manner, the French again got possession of Innspruck.

In November, 1809, after the treaty of peace at Schönbrunn, Hofer was ordered by the Emperor of Austria to lay down his arms; but, thinking the order a forgery, he refused, and the Austrian troops having been withdrawn, the Tyrolese were finally overcome, and the leaders dispersed to the mountains. Hofer lay concealed in a miserable chalet for two months, a price having been set upon his head. He was betrayed by a Judas named Roffl, who lived but a short distance from where Hofer was concealed, and whose house is now pointed out to the tourist as the "traitor's house." Hofer was arrested on the 20th of January, 1810, and conveyed to. Mantua, where, twenty days later, he was shot by order of Bonaparte. The whole history of this remarkable man is thus concentrated into a single year, but his memory lives on every hill throughout the Tyrol.

Opposite Hofer's monument is one erected by the state to the memory of her sons who fell in the war of 1796, also a marble slab containing the names of three of the officers of the celebrated Kaiser-Jäger regiment, killed in 1848. One of them, Lieutenant Hofer, was grandson of André Hofer.

In this church, in 1641, Christina, queen of Sweden, was converted, and received into the body of the Catholic Church.

The Imperial Palace quite an extensive building, erected by Maria Theresa on the site of the former residence of the Counts of Tyrol, which was destroyed by fire and an earthquake in 1770. Before the palace is a bronze equestrian statur

The Museum, open every day (Sundays excepted) from 9 to 12 and from 3 to 5. It contains a large collection of pictures, antiquities, sculptures, and designs, with numerous relics, such as pieces of money coined by Hofer when ruling in Innspruck, his bust, sword, and an amulet which he wore in his hat; the uniform of the Emperor Francis I. as colonel of the KaiserJäger regiment. On the ground floor of the Museum are displayed specimens of the produce and manufactures of the Tyrol, mineral and fossil remains, models of salt mines, carvings in wood, etc., etc.

Examine, at the southern extremity of the principal street, the Arch of Triumph, erected by the inhabitants of Innspruck in 1765, in honor of the entrance of the Empress Maria Theresa with her husband, Francis I., on the occasion of the marriage of their son, Leopold II., with the Infanta Maria Ludovica. In the same street, in front of the Hôtel d'Autriche, may be seen the column of St. Anna, erected 1706.

By all means visit the ancient castle of Ambras, which can be reached in three quarters of an hour. It is one of the best preserved castles in the country for its age, dating back to the 13th century. It is also noted for the famous "Ambras collection" of antiquities, which were removed to Vienna in 1806. It was the favorite residence of Ferdinand II. and his lovely wife, Philippine Welser. The view from the tower is most magnificent.

Tourists will here have an opportunity of witnessing some splendid specimens of target-shooting in the vicinity. At one of the Schiess-stätte, or shooting-grounds, on the opposite side of the River Inn, we counted over 400 targets perfectly riddled with bullets. The walls and ceilings of the rooms from whence they shoot were covered with these targets.

See

The railroad to Verona, via Brenner Pass, was finished in the autumn of 1867. description of route-"Passes into Italy." From Landeck to Botzen, via the Finster

After passing the castle of Inn, we soon enter a narrow gorge or defile, which has been fatal to numerous invading armies. The most memorable is that of the campaign of 1809; the spot is now marked by a government fortification. The 9th of August, 1809, a division of the French and Bavarian army, numbering 10,000 men, entered this defile, and in one long column marched along the road which borders the River Inn, and over which hang immense cliffs. The vanguard, consisting of twelve hundred men, were allowed to pass unmolested as far as Prutz, the destination of the expedition; but when the residue of the army had become completely closed in by the overhanging rocks, the tocsin was sounded, and the horrible signal reached the ears of the doomed invaders, "In the name of the Holy Trinity, cut all loose!" and instantaneously, from every direction through the entire line, huge rocks and trunks of trees descended with fearful force, crushing with one mighty avalanche two thirds of the entire army, while the welladjusted rifle of the Tyrolese sharp-shooter did frightful execution on those who had escaped the first descent; in the mean time, a troop of peasants, armed with swords, spears, axes, and scythes, beat down and completely annihilated the remainder.

Near Prutz are situated the celebrated mineral baths of Oblades, the best organized, and one of the finest positions in the Tyrol. Notice here the ruined castle of Laudegg; notice at this spot the immense glacier of Gebatsch.

Reid, a pretty village-Hôtel Post. This is the seat of a tribunal, and here is situated the convent of the Capuchins, established in the 17th century as a bulwark against the Reformation, which was rapidly spreading toward the southern side of the Alps.

After passing the village of Pfunds, situated on both banks of the Inn, the new and magnificent road begins. It was finished in 1855, and its grand and bold construction merits the admiration of modern times. Notice the spot where the old road,

which runs along on a level with the river, crosses the Inn, near an ancient tower and some dilapidated buildings: the scene is most grand and romantic. Half way up the pass the small inn of Hoch Finstermünz is situated, and we would recommend, instead of stopping to feed your horses at Pfunds, you do so here, that is, if in your own carriage, or on foot, as the eilwagen does not stop here. The grandeur of the situation is unsurpassed, and the view through the defile most interesting.

Nauders, situated nearly five thousand feet above the level of the sea, contains 1500 inhabitants; it is the seat of a tribunal. A magnificent view of the entire Engardine valley may be had from this point. Notice the old castle of Naudersberg. The route continues to ascend until the giant of the Alps, the Ortler-Spitz, appears in all his glory. After passing the castle of Fürstenburg, and the monastery of Marienberg, with its innumerable windows, which are situated near the village of Burgeis, we arrive at the plain before the town of Mals, noted for being the battle-field on which the Swiss achieved a complete victory over the Austrian forces, and finally gained their independence, in 1499.

MALS-Hôtel Post-a town of Roman origin: nothing of interest. Passing from the town, notice the ancient tower of Fröhlichsburg. Farther on to our right, notice the ruins of the ancient castle of Lichtenberg, the property of Count Rhuen, and to our left the castle of Count Trapp, which contains some fine arms and armor belonging to the Middle Ages. It is inhabited, but may sometimes be visited. [Travelers who do not intend visiting Italy again, or who have crossed the Splugen Pass to the Lake of Como, should make an excursion over the Stelvia, the highest road in Europe, being 9200 feet above the level of the sea, and nearly 1000 above the line of perpetual snow. Two days would serve to make the excursion. Conveyances cross from Mals to the Baths of Bormio in 12 hours.] After passing the village of Naturns, Nature puts on her loveliest garb. The vine and the olive, the chestnut and the walnut, covered with the richest foliage, are exquisitely relieved by the smiling villages, lovely villas, feudal castles, and picturesque cascades.

Meran, the ancient capital of the Tyrol

before Innspruck was honored with that appellation, contains some 2500 inhabitants: Hôtel de la Poste and Compte de Meran. It is very beautifully situated on the Passeyrbach, which has frequently nearly destroyed the town by overflowing its banks. The town is now protected by a massive dike, which, being planted with trees, is converted into a beautiful promenade, at the end of which notice the shooting-gallery and Cursaal. The castles in the vicinity are very numerous: the principal is the Tyrol, from which the country derives its name, and which was the former residence of its princes. It is partly in ruins, but will well repay a visit: notice its curious carvings. The views from its grounds are beautiful beyond description. It is in charge of a descendant of the patriot Hofer. The castle of Lebenberg is one of the largest and best preserved: it is about three miles from Meran, in a most delightful position, surrounded with olive and citron trees, and beautiful terraces of sloping vineyards. It was formerly owned by the Counts of Fuchs, but is now the property of M. Kirchlichner.

Perhaps the most picturesque portion of the basin of the Adige is that occupied by the castle of Schönna, the property of the Count of Meran, 'son of the Archduke John of Austria. It is near the entrance to the valley of Passeyrthal: its portcullis and drawbridge are still in use, and in a good state of preservation.

The entire distance from hence to Botzen is rich in vineyards, ancient castles without number, and the richest vegetation.

Botzen, finely situated at the confluence of the Telfer and Eisach, a short distance above where their united waters empty into the Adige. It contains 10,000 inhabitants: Hôtel Kaiserkrone. Botzen has a large trade, being intersected by the roads leading from Austria, Italy, and Switzerland; and since the railroad has been finished, connecting it with Venice and Milan by Verona, this trade has largely increased. A strong dike of masonry, two miles long and nearly twenty-four feet high, has been constructed to defend the town from the irruptions of the turbulent Telferbach, which would otherwise often overflow it. The principal streets are bordered with arcades, similar to those of Padua and Berne.

Botzen, the nearest point of departure to the Baths of Bormio, noted for their magical effects in cases of gout, skin diseases, affections of the stomach and liver, the nerves, and chronic catarrh. Dr. Williams says these baths offer more advantages in point of dryness, shelter, and comfort than any other of the high mountain resorts in the Alps. Hotel is finely managed; saloons, reading and billiard rooms, and 40 bathing-rooms. From Botzen to Innspruck by rail in 6 hours, and from Botzen to Verona in 6 hours. This is the first rail communication across the Alps, opened Aug., '67, and is one of the grandest works of modern engineering. This road affords the most direct communication between Italy and Germany.

After passing the small village of Atzwang, which contains nothing worthy of note, we arrive at Klausen, a small town with a single street, which skirts the banks of the river. On a high precipice above the town stands the Convent of Seben: it is of very ancient date, and was originally a Rhætian fortress; after that a Roman castle. In the 13th century it became the seat of the archbishop. On the northern tower, which is nearly 600 feet above the road, may be seen a crucifix: it marks the spot where one of the nuns, during the French invasion, after having been pursued from chamber to chamber by some brutal soldiers, leaped from the rock, as the only means of preserving her vow of chastity unbroken. The Capuchin Convent, outside the town, is one of the richest in the Tyrol: it was founded by the queen of Charles II. of Spain, whose confessor was a native of Klausen, and on whose account the queen bestowed much riches on the establishment, such as mass robes and other church ornaments, jewels, books, and pictures. In 1797, during the French war, the women and girls of the vicinity took a very active part in defending the various passes against the advance of the enemy. The Emperor of Austria sent them a letter expressing his thanks for their timely as sistance.

Brixen, situated in a very picturesque position, amid luxuriant vegetation, contains 3500 inhabitants. The town itself is by no means cleanly. Hôtel Sonne. It was for nine hundred years the capital of an ecclesiastical principality, and is still the residence of an archbishop. It was

The principal

united to Tyrol in 1802. building is the Cathedral, with two high towers. The interior is richly decorated with marbles; was finished in 1754. Notice the adjoining cloisters, with some very ancient frescoes.

The episcopal palace, which lies southwest of the town, and surrounded by an immense garden, is a beautiful building, and well worth a visit. There are numerous convents in the town, one of which is English.

Before arriving at Sterzing, we pass one of those numerous defiles so advantageous to the Tyrolese in defending their country against invasion. Notice a small chapel on the roadside, which marks the spot where the French advance guard, under Joubert, was defeated. Near this same spot, in 1703, the Bavarians, under the prince elector, Max Emanuel, were defeated by the Tyrolese.

Sterzing, a very pretty town, and formerly very wealthy, owing to the rich silver and copper mines which at one time existed here. It contains 2200 inhabitants. Hotels Post and Krone. The parish church, just outside the town, contains abundant proofs of the wealth of the miners, and of the former wealth of the inhabitants. The mines, however, are now exhausted, and the town depends nearly altogether on the through travel.

From Sterzing we now make the ascent of the Brenner, along the banks of the Eisach. From the summit of the pass there is little to be seen, the road being completely shut in with high hills. Notice, behind the inn, a small rushing stream; this gives birth to the Eisach. On the opposite side of the road is a cascade formed by the River Sill. After passing the village of Steinach, most of which was destroyed by fire in 1853, the route is very beautiful, and at Schönberg the scenery is considered the finest in the Tyrol. Innspruck, in the deep valley which you now see from the tops of the surrounding mountains, looks exceedingly grand.

From Innspruck to Munich, vic Kuffstein and Rosenheim. Time, 6 h. Fare, 1st class, 8 fl.; 2d class, 5 fl. 30 kr. At Kuffstein, a powerful frontier fortress between Tyrol and Bavaria, baggage and passports are examined. At Rosenheim you change cars, both for Munich and Vienna.