the arches in the middle are replaced by square openings. The third story (which, like Olsker and Nylarsker, has double walls) is not supposed to be original, it being believed that the circular roof rested on the vault of the second story, through which the central cylinder passed as a sort of spire.

entirely concealed by the very steep hills which surround it.

Aalborg, situated on the Limfiord, has a population of 12,000. Hôtel Phœnix.

This is one of the oldest towns in Denmark, it having been the seat of a bishop as early as 948. It contains 15,000 inhabitants.

The cathedral is here the principal object of attraction. It was begun in the year 1201 by Bishop Peter Vagnsen, but has since undergone many alterations. It is 296 feet in length, and once boasted a spire 340 feet high, which, after being several times destroyed and repaired, was finally overthrown in 1722. There were also originally tall spires on the two small towers. In the interior, the beauty of the choir is noticeable; also the altar, with exquisite carvings on a gold ground, bearing the date 1479. The ship suspended in the centre of the cross, as is the custom in many Danish churches, is a model bought by Peter the Great when in Holland, but which never reached its destination, owing to the shipwreck, off the coast of Jutland, of the vessel bearing it to St. Petersburg. Many of the famous characters well known in Danish history repose in this cathedral.

The distance by railway from Aarhuus to Randers, the next town on our route, is 36 miles, through a most beautiful country. This town, mentioned in the 11th century, was the scene of many famous historical events, although nothing is now to be seen of the many ancient castles said to have existed here, there being but very few remains of any old buildings.

Randers now contains 12,000 inhabitants, and is the original seat of manufacture of the Danish gloves. It was also at one time celebrated for its splendid salmon-fisheries, which have greatly decreased in extent, owing to injudicious fishing.

The railway continues to Aalborg, passing through Hobro in one hour from Randers, a small town of 2000 inhabitants,

numerable narrow alleys, and contains

nooks. The Vor Frue Kirke, one of the two remaining churches, was built in the year 1100. Among the private houses, that of King Hans, in which that king is said to have died in 1513, is the most ancient; another, now used as a pharmacy, called Jens Bangs Gaard, was built in 1623.

The railroad to Säbye and Frederickshaven starts from Nörre Sundby, which is situated on the Limfiord opposite Aalborg, with which it is connected by a pontoon bridge.

Säbye offers little worthy of interest, unless we except a convent church, to which the town owed its prosperity during the Middle Ages, and where a fine carved altar may be seen. The same may be said of Frederickshaven, which a few years ago was a small fishing-village, now rapidly rising in importance, owing to its connection by railway with Aalborg, and consequent traffic with Norway and Sweden. There are extensive oyster-fisheries carried on here. The oysters called Fladstrand's östers, being larger and richer, though hardly so delicate as the English, are much appreciated in Denmark.

Skagen, one of the wildest and most desolate spots in the world, is 22 miles from Frederickshaven, over a heavy, sandy road. On the way a peculiar formation will be noticed, consisting of long strips of meadow-land called Dopper, which run parallel with the coast, sometimes a mile or two in length and from 30 to 40 feet in width, separated by immense ridges of sand from 12 to 18 feet in height, which are overgrown with heather: these ridges are called Rimmer.

The town of Skagen itself is buried in the sand; nothing of the old Gothic church is visible but the square tower. Very little vegetation is possible here, owing to the ever-drifting sands and the terrible gales which continually prevail. Crops of bar

ley are sometimes raised by the aid of fish-manure, and the "marehalm" grows round the cottages of the fishermen; but trees and shrubs, even when tended with especial care, are liable to be uprooted and entirely destroyed by sudden winds. Terrible sand-drifts are continually occurring. During that of 1775 the old church was cntirely buried, while in the gale of 1825, on Christmas-eve, fifty richly laden vessels were wrecked upon this coast.

There is a light-house of the first order at Skagen, as well as a signal-station for the communication of the passage of ships to their owners.

Returning by the same road to Frederickshaven, the traveler may return by rail to Aalborg, via Hjörring, thence by steamer to Copenhagen.

ROUTE 75.-From Aarhuus to Viborg. On landing at Aarhuus (described in the previous route), the traveler may take the train to Langaa, where he may either branch off to Aalborg or continue on to Viborg.

Viborg has now a population of only 6500, although in ancient times no town was more intimately connected with the history of Denmark. During the Middle Ages, besides being the capital of Jutland, it was the seat of the national worship; the Danish kings were elected here, and here the national assemblies were held.

The Cathedral is particularly deserving of attention. It was founded in the early part of the eleventh century, and rebuilt between the years 1130 and 1170. It was closed some years ago, owing to its bad state of repair, but the sum of $175,000 having been raised for its restoration in 1870-72, the work is now being carried on. This, when finished, will be one of the finest specimens of Roman architecture to be found on the Continent. Notice under the chancel a very interesting crypt, which has remained untouched since it was first built.

The Söndersogns-kirke is the only other remaining church of the twelve which existed at Viborg. Here is a very fine altar, formerly belonging to Fredericksberg.

Vol. III.-H

NORWAY.

Norway forms part of the Scandinavian peninsula, which occupies the northwestern portion of Europe, and is bounded on the north and west by the Arctic and Atlantic oceans; on the south by the Skager-rack and Kattegat channels and the Baltic Sea; and on the east by the Baltic, the Gulf of Bothnia, and Russian Lapland.

A great range of mountains extends through the Scandinavian peninsula from north to south, and forms in part of its course the boundary-line between Norway and Sweden. Norway is entirely a mountainous region, nine tenths of the country being occupied by the high grounds, and the valleys being little more than rents or chasms in the rocks. On the coast and in the interior the same features prevail, the bottoms of the valleys measuring about 100 feet across, or, at most, 200 feet, inclosed by rocks that rise almost perpendicularly to the height of 3000 and even 4000 feet. Into these valleys the sea penetrates along the coast, and form the numerous fiords that abound throughout the country.

The entire area of the Scandinavian peninsula is 292,700 square miles, of which 120,000 belong to Norway. The length of the peninsula, from the North Cape to the southern extremity of Sweden, is between eleven and twelve hundred miles. The average width of Norway is between sixty and seventy miles, except in the southern part of the country, where it spreads out to about two hundred and fifty miles.

The coasts are lined by chains of high and rocky islands, the principal of which are the Lofoden group, where an extensive fishery is carried on. The famous whirlpool-the Maelstrom-is formed toward the southern extremity of this chain, where the ocean, checked in its course by the opposing rocks, as well as by other currents, sweeps round in a current sufficiently powerful to draw within its influence and swallow up whatever approaches it at a distance of many miles.

Rivers as well as lakes are numerous in Norway, though few of the former are navigable, owing to the falls and rapids which obstruct their course; timber, however, is floated down the streams. The 811

Glommen, the longest river in Norway, is only ascended a distance of fourteen miles, where a large fall occurs.

The largest lake in Norway is the Miösen, a splendid sheet of water, with wellcultivated shores, and with scenery, unlike most in Norway, deserving the epithet beautiful rather than sublime. It lies at an elevation of four hundred feet above the level of the sea, with the River Vermen, a considerable affluent of the Glommen, as an outlet.

Nearly every valley in Norway possesses one or more lakes, mostly long and narrow in shape, like those in the Scottish Highlands. The Lake of Lessoevärk, on the summit of the Dovre-Field, is remarkable for having an outlet at each end: one which forms the River Lougan and flows into the Miösen Lake, while the other runs through the narrow Romsdal valley into the Atlantic Ocean.

Climate. The winter occupies seven months in the year, during which time the ground is covered with deep snow, while the lakes and rivers are frozen hard, enabling the inhabitants to travel upon them with great facility by means of their sleds drawn by horses or reindeer. The summer is short but very warm, especially on the western shores of Norway, where the heat is intense during the months of July and August. Although a great quantity of rain falls at times, the air is generally dry and bracing, and conducive to health and longevity.

Productions.-The wealth of Norway consists in its mines, forests, and fisheries. Iron and copper abound, and the works of the latter, carried on in the valley of Kaafiord, give employment to many hundred persons; the copper is smelted here, and then shipped to England.

More than four fifths of the surface of Norway is covered with wood, although in the northern parts much of this consists merely of stunted birch and brushwood. The principal trees are the beech, oak, maple, spruce and Scotch firs, birch and aspen. The spruce and Scotch firs are the most valuable for commercial purposes, and are exported in large quantities as timber.

Bears and wolves are the most formidable of the wild animals, and may be found in great numbers in the northern districts; the fox and lynx also frequently occur,

and, of smaller animals, the lemming comes from Lapland at intervals, and commits great devastation amid the crops. The reindeer is the principal domestic animal; the Norwegian horses are small but remarkably sure-footed and hardy, and are well suited to the requirements of the inhabitants. Birds are scarce, owing to the long duration of winter, which renders their subsistence difficult; the ptarmigan is the most common of the game-birds.

Fish abound in the seas, lakes, and rivers-the salmon and herring fisheries being particularly noted. Those of the Lofoden Islands, already mentioned, supply a large proportion of the ordinary food of the peasantry both in Sweden and Norway.

Norway is divided geographically into three great parts, viz., Söndenfields, Nordenfields, and Nordlandens, coinciding with the southern and northern portions of the great mountain plains or fields and the extreme northern tracts of country. Nordlandens comprises the districts of Nordland and Finmark, of which the whole of the latter and most of the former belong to Norwegian Lapland.

The Norwegian towns are small, mostly mere villages, separated by long intervals of mountain wilderness; two only, Christi. ania, the capital, and Bergen, the chief fishing-port, have more than twenty thousand inhabitants.

The Norwegians are a hardy race, inured to fatigue, simple and kind-hearted, and most hospitable to strangers. The population amounted in 1865 to 1,701,478.

Norway was for many centuries independent of any foreign government, and was divided into many little states, which were united into one monarchy from the 9th to the 14th century. United to Denmark and Sweden, under Margaret of Denmark, by the union of Kalmar, 1397, Norway was separated from Sweden by the rupture of that union in 1450, but remained, together with Iceland, united to Denmark. In 1814 Norway was given to Sweden by the Congress of Vienna, as a recompense to the latter power for its co-operation in the fall of Napoleon I., and in compensation for the loss of Finland and eastern Bothnia, which were kept by Russia.

Notwithstanding this reunion, Norway has preserved a certain independence. Although possessing the same sovereign and

Traveling in Norway has become much more extensive in the last few years, and the conveniences have greatly increased in consequence; but no one must set out on this tour without being prepared for a certain degree of discomfort. The usual mode of travel along the land-routes is by posting; station-houses are erected at certain intervals along the roads throughout the country, and the distance between each of these forms a stage.

At some of these stations, called "fast" stations, and marked †, regular post-horses are kept, and this is mostly the case on the main roads; but at the other stations the law obliges the farmers of the district to supply horses in turn, and, in order to obtain these, it is necessary to send a "forbud," or messenger, in advance. Should the traveler omit to send this messenger, he may be obliged to wait one, two, or three hours, according to the distance of the horses from the station. The notice sent by the forbud should state the day and hour of the traveler's intended arrival at the station, as well as the number of horses required.

Carioles are usually employed throughout Norway, owing to the lightness of their construction, which enables them to go with safety over the roughest roads, as well as to be transported in boats over the numerous fiords which continually intersect the route. They are built without springs; the seat, which will hold only one person, rests by the aid of cross-pieces upon the shafts, giving a certain elasticity which prevents jolting, except in very rough places. The trunk, which should be of the smallest size, otherwise it can not be carried, is placed on a board upon the axle

Carioles may generally be hired at the different stations, but they are very liable to be old and rickety; the traveler had much better purchase or hire one at Christiania, and dispose of it on his return. They may be obtained from J. A. M. Lilloe, 29 Kogensgade, who speaks English fluently. Those with springs, which are the most desirable, may be obtained at a cost of $45 in gold; without springs, $40; the harness will cost about $10 more. Or one may frequently be had quite as good at secondhand from some traveler who has just finished his trip, and who is anxious to dispose of it.

This carriage is so small that the provision-box, called in Norway "tine," is generally placed between the legs, where ladies may rest their feet upon it. A few straps, a hammer, a gimlet, a winch, 10pe, and string should also be carried, and may be placed under the seat; the apron of the cariole should be long enough to cover the seat, as there is little or no shelter at the stations (which are the inns of tho country) for the carriages, which are sometimes left during entire nights in the rain.

Needless to say, a waterproof is absolutely indispensable, and the traveler's trunk should either be painted or covered with skin, to prevent the wet from penetrating.

Coffee, milk, sugar, eggs, fish, bacon, and rye-bread or oatmeal-cake are to be had at most of the stations; but meat, white bread, and biscuits are rarely met with; tea can be found only in the cities. Every opportunity of replenishing the provision-box should be taken, as in some places nothing but the porridge, the staple food of the peasants, can be obtained. Uncooked ham or bacon, which may be fried at the stations, is very serviceable, as well as preserved soup and Liebig's extract of meat. A knife, fork, spoon, salt-box, and a little mustard should also be taken, as well as candles, should the traveler object to tallow-dips, the only lights found.

A Day-book (Dagbog) is kept at every

station, in which the traveler enters his name and destination; also the number of horses used by him, as well as any complaints he may wish to make against the postmaster, post-boy, etc. The day-books are inspected by the authorities, and the complaints they contain inquired into.

The posting regulations and distances to the adjoining stations are also attached to this book.

Money.-Accounts in Norway are kept in specie dollars, marks or orts, and skillings; 24 skillings make one mark or ort, and five marks make one specie dollar. There are no gold coins, the current money being of paper, silver, and copper. The notes issued by the National Bank, which pass for their full value throughout the country, are 100 specie dollars, on red paper; 50, on green; 10, on yellow; 5, on blue; and 1, on white. The silver pieces in circulation are specie dollars, half specie dollars, marks, half marks (twelve skillings), and quarter marks (six skillings). There is also a quantity of small Danish coin in circulation, which passes at a discount.

One skilling is equivalent to about one cent in our money, one mark to 22 cents, and one specie dollar to $1 124.

Measures.-One Norsk foot is equivalent to 1.029 English; two feet make one ell. The Norsk mile is equal to 7 English miles.

Rates of Traveling for Horses per Mile (Norsk). From fast stations in towns for one horse, 48 skillings; in the country, 36 sk.; from ordinary stations in towns, 36 sk.; in the country, 24 sk.

For Boats.-Four-oared boats, from fast or ordinary stations, 8 sk.; six-oared boats, 12 sk.; for each man from fast stations, 24 sk.; from ordinary stations, 20 sk. This is the fare for boats constructed for sailing and rowing; simple row-boats cost one half less.

Over and above these rates a fee of 4 sk. for each horse and 2 sk. for each boatman is allowed to the postmaster in remuneraation for his trouble in ordering them. This fee is called" tilsigelsi," and is only payable at the ordinary stations.

The traveler is naturally responsible should he overdrive his horse, and if complained of by the post-boy, is obliged to pay according to the amount of injury received by the animal.

Travelers should carry with them the usual form of forbud papers, which may be obtained, printed in blank, in all the principal towns. Should the traveler change his plans, as sometimes happens, after the dispatch of a forbud to some station, forfeit-money is due to the owners of the horses as well as to the station-masters for having ordered them, which he should by no means neglect to pay. This may be done at the first post-office arrived at in any of the towns, and should be by no means forgotten, not only because he is legally liable, and will be traced if possible and compelled to pay, but also because the peasants are often obliged to supply their horses at great loss to themselves, bringing them from great distances, for which the sum allowed them by law is a very insufficient recompense. Added to this, any wrongful act of that kind is not only prejudicial to the individual traveler, but is visited upon all his countrymen.

There are numerous ways of reaching Norway, first among which we mention a line of steamers running from New York to Christiania, touching at the English coast on their way, and stopping on their return at Bergen, whence they continue direct to New York. Travelers may return to America by this line, called Den Norsk Amerikanske Dampskibslinie, or may come here directly from New York if they have only a few summer months to spare, and desire to pass them amid the beautiful Norwegian scenery.

The quickest way of reaching Norway from England, as well as the cheapest, is by steamers from Hull, which leave that town every Friday evening, touching at Christiansand on Sunday, and reaching Christiania the following Tuesday; fare, $20.

A steamer also runs from Hull to Bergen every three weeks.

Weekly steamers leave Copenhagen and Kiel for Christiania, the former touching at Gottenburg, the latter at Corsoer and Fredrickshaven; fare, eight specie dollars.

The railways now open in Norway are from Christiania to Eidsvold, from Drammen, from Hamar to Grundsaet, Trondhjem to Stören, and from Christiania to Stockholm by Kongsvinger and Arvika.

Steamers run weekly along the coast from Christiania to Christiansand, Bergen,