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building incloses two court-yards, and is of irregular form, with four large towers, which, added to its position, give to it the appearance of an ancient stronghold. It became the property of the crown under Gustavus Vasa, by whom it was rebuilt, and it was afterward again enlarged by Gustavus III. The castle contains a large collection of historical portraits, among which those of Gustavus Vasa and Eric XIV. were painted by Eric himself.

statues, bronzes, vases, and weapons, spoils | Jonsson Grip, a man of immense wealth, from different German wars; but these who lived during the 12th century. have been removed to the National Museum. It is still adorned, however, with many beautiful paintings, notably by Ehrenstrahl, and contains a gallery of the portraits of sovereigns contemporary with King Oscar. In the grounds is a Chinese pavilion, built by Adolphus Frederick as a surprise for his queen, Louisa Ulrica, which contains numerous Chinese curiosities. Close to this stands a row of summer cottages, called Canton, intended for a village of mechanics, who were to work here under the supervision of Adolphus Frederick, that king having the reputation of being the finest locksmith in the kingdom.

The Castle of Ulricsdal was the favorite residence of the late king, Charles XV. This building was originally the property of Jacob de la Gardie, and afterward passed into the hands of the widow of Charles X., who bequeathed it to her grandson Ulric, from whom the castle derives its name. Although converted by Bernadotte into a Hôtel des Invalides, it was reappropriated by Charles XV. as a royal residence, and decorated with great splendor. The king's apartments are situated on the first floor, and are all restored in the style of the 17th century. They are filled with antiquities and curiosities which well repay inspection; the bedroom is very plain, and contains the bedstead which accompanied Gustavus Adolphus in his German campaigns. The queen's apartments, most beautifully furnished, are situated on the ground floor, overlooking the bay of Edsviken. Carriage-fare to Ulricsdal, 5 rixdol.; fare by steamer each way, 50 öres.

Svartsjö and Rosersberg are also royal palaces, in the immediate vicinity of Stockholm; the latter was the favorite summer residence of Bernadotte, and is furnished with great richness.

Rydboholm, three miles from Stockholm, is interesting as the place where the childhood of Gustavus Vasa was spent. His study is still shown, as well as an oak planted by him in the garden.

Steamers go twice a week from Riddarsholm to Mariefred and the Castle of Gripsholm; time, 3 hours; fare to go and return the same day, 3 rix-dol.

The Castle of Gripsholm, situated on Lake Maelar, was named from the celebrated Bo

Many days may be spent in exploring the beauties of Lake Maelar and its 1300 islands, which are reached by steamers traversing the lake in all directions; the fishing is every where excellent, and the game abundant in the forests which line the lake.

We think it well to inform gentlemen travelers that it is considered the greatest breach of good manners to enter even the smallest shop in Sweden without removing the hat, and those who defer to this universal custom of the country will every where find themselves treated with greater courtesy.

Communications by steamers from Stockholm to Russia, three weekly, via Finland, 60 hours to St. Petersburg; Stettin weekly, 48 hours; Lubeck, three weekly, 42 hours; Copenhagen daily, 35 to 50 hours; England, Holland, France, etc., weekly.

There are lines of steamers running north as far as Tornea, in Lapland, if the traveler have a desire to visit those hypoborean regions.

Be particular in having your passport viséd by the Russian minister before the time for sailing for St. Petersburg, else you can not procure a ticket.

ROUTE 83.-From Stockholm to Gottenburg by the Gotha Canal, passing through Lakes Maelar, Wetter, and Wener.

This trip occupies two and a half days from Stockholm, on steamers that are small but comfortable, and being one of the most picturesque routes in Sweden, it should by no means be omitted.

Plans for cutting the existing Gotha Canal were made many years before they were carried out. Charles IX. was the first to begin the undertaking, which was continued during the reign of Gustavus

Adolphus, who made the locks of Lilla Edet, | old, to a distance of thirty-eight feet, esand made a part of the Hjelmar Canal. caping most miraculously uninjured. The The works languished, and were renewed steamer soon enters the open sea, and passduring the reigns of several monarchs for es two hours in crossing to the Söderköpmore than a century, and it was not until ing Canal, which is cut to Lake Asplängen. 1832 that the two seas were at length con- Between Mariehof and Wenneberga the nected. A continuous water-way was thus first locks of importance are reached, where formed across the country by means of the rise is about sixty-four feet. Lake seven portions of canal which connect the Asplängen is connected by the canal, four various lakes in the southern part of Swe- and a half miles, with Lake Roxen, which den; the entire distance from Stockholm is entered at Norsholm. A road here crossto Gottenburg by this route is fifty miles es the canal leading to Norrköping, one of only by canal, the remainder being through the principal manufacturing towns of Swerivers, bays, and lakes, surrounded by den, which can be reached in an hour's most enchanting scenery. There are about drive. A railway also runs from here twelve feet of water in the canal; it is which makes a junction with the railway ninety feet wide on the surface, and fifty from Gottenburg to Stockholm, and the feet at the bottom. traveler may here change his route if he desire to do so.

The traveler who has been in Scotland will be somewhat reminded of the Caledonian Canal, with the exception that while there the steamer is sometimes obliged to pss through a group of three or four locks, here they often amount to seven or eight. The navigation is sometimes very slow and difficult, and great delay is often caused at the locks, particularly in the latter part of the canal, from the number of vessels waiting to pass; the time may be pleasantly spent, however, in taking walks in the neighborhood. There are seventyfour locks in all.

Steamers start every Tuesday and Friday at 5 P.M. from the Riddarholm Quay, but as the accommodation is very limited, it would be well to apply for tickets at the office some days previously. The vessels go day and night, unless prevented by fog; the journey commences on the Maelar Lake, the steamer winding in and out for a distance of twenty miles amid its numberless islands, until the portion of the canal called Södertelje is reached. This was begun in 1435 by Engelbrekt; but the work soon languished, and was not recommenced until 1780, and finished in 1819. It serves to connect the Maelar Lake with an arm of the Baltic, which runs far up into the country, and on which the steamer next enters. The castle of Hörmingsholm is passed on the right, situated upon the island of Mörkö. This is one of the finest estates in Sweden. It was from one of the windows of this castle that John von Baner, a famous commander in the ThirtyYears' War, fell, when only eight years

Lake Roxen is two and a half miles in length. The Ost Göta Canal is entered on the western side by a series of locks-seven at the margin of the lake, and four at short distances from each other. The canal is here carried up a hill over seventy feet above the level of the Roxen, and the views from the locks are among the loveliest in Sweden.

The time employed by the steamer in passing through affords an occasion to visit the Vretakloster church, founded by Inge II. in 1128. The building is in the Gothic style, in the form of a Latin cross, with side chapels constructed as places of sepulture. Two of these chapels contain the remains of the founder of the church and two other Swedish kings, while another is devoted to a portion of the celebrated Douglas family, who emigrated to Sweden during the time of Cromwell, and who have made themselves famous in the annals of their adopted country. A number of Austrian standards taken by the Douglases during the Thirty-Years' War are placed in the corner of the chapel.

The Lake of Boren is next entered, on the southern side of which stands the chateau of Ulfasa, belonging to the Stjerneld family. The Motala Canal, fifty-one feet above the level of the Boren, is entered by a succession of five locks, from the last of which a beautiful view is obtained of Lake Boren and its surroundings. Between Borenshult and Motala the grave of B. B. von Platen, the founder of the canal, is passed; it is situated in a shady grove of

elms and poplars on the north side of the canal, and surrounded by iron rails.

Motala is the seat of the largest iron founderies and manufactories in Sweden, and is rapidly becoming a place of considerable importance. The steamers generally stop here long enough for passengers to visit the town. The ruins are the remains of the fortifications erected in 1367 to oppose the passage of the Danes.

The steamer next enters the Wetter Lake, 80 miles long, and 295 feet above the sea level, where excellent trout are to be obtained, and stops at Wadstena. The castle built here in 1545 by Gustavus Vasa is one of the finest Gothic buildings in Sweden, and with its towers, walls, and moats presents a most imposing appearance. The building is now used as a corn magazine. From here the steamer crosses the lake to Wanäs Point, on which the fortress of Carlsborg stands, erected to defend the entrance of the canal. Lake Wiken is next reached, and traversed during the night. The West Gotha Canal connects this lake with the Wener, to reach which nineteen locks are passed. The highest point of the canal is reached at Pävetstorp, where an obelisk stands erected to the memory of Charles XIII.

Lake Wener, 94 miles long, and 147 feet above the level of the sea, is entered at Sjortorp, and the greater part of a day passed upon its waters almost out of sight of land, until Wenersborg, at the extreme end, is reached. From here the steamer turns to the right, into the bay of Wassbotten, and enters the Charles Canal in order to avoid the Falls of Trolhätten, which interrupt the passage of the first portion of the Gotha River. A hotel is situated near the falls, close to the landing-place of the steamers, where the traveler may pleasantly pass a few days, if he have time, in order to explore the neighborhood, and continue his journey by another steamer. The falls are seven in number, of which the Toppö is the highest (forty-five feet), and are altogether 110 feet in height. Travelers coming from Norway may perhaps be disappointed in the appearance of these falls after the grandeurs to which they have become accustomed, but the view is one of extreme beauty, nevertheless. This is one of the finest cataracts in Europe, and, in regard

to the volume of water, it is only exceeded by that of Schaffhausen. The whole series of falls is extremely beautiful-from the upper rapids, where the boiling river forces its way along its narrow and troubled channel, by the Fall of Pollhem, where it takes a bold plunge of seventy feet, by the lower fall, where an island divides the rushing waters on the verge, only to have its base swept by the reunited stream, to the island of Toppö, where you stand enveloped in a maze of dashing waters till you half fear you will be swept down their resistless flood. Ample time is afforded to see the falls from the number of locks which the steamer is obliged to pass-here nine in all-generally occupying about two hours. A double line of locks has been constructed, owing to the number of steamers, and to the immense amount of traffic carried on by means of this canal. The steamer enters from here the Gotha River, the scenery of which is very fine, all the way to Gottenburg. Near Lilla Edet a very fine fall is passed; farther on the river divides, not far from the ruins of the old castle of Bohns, one branch entering the sea by the Elve Fiord, and another flowing on to Gottenburg, which is visible for a long time before the arrival of the steamer. Gottenburg. See Route 82.

ROUTE 84.-From Stockholm to Upsala; by rail, fare, 4 rix-dol. 65 öres.; by steamer, 2 rix-dol.

Three trains leave Stockholm daily by which the traveler may reach Upsala; or he may take the steamer from Riddarsholm, which leaves every morning, reaching that city in five and a half hours.

Upsala, 45 miles northwest of Stockholm, is one of the finest of old "finished" cities, whose quiet dignity is never disturbed by the rattle of business. Population, 11,156. Hotels, Stads Nya and Gamla Gästgifvaregarden.

The fine old Cathedral of Upsala, built of brick in the Gothic style, is the principal object of attraction here. It was begun in 1260, and finished in 1435. The building formerly possessed three towers, crowned with spires 400 feet high, but these were destroyed by fire in 1702, and replaced by two square towers not at all in keeping with the rest of the edifice. In the interior, which is ver- fine, a shrine of

silver to the right of the altar contains the relics of St. Eric. Behind the altar is the chapel containing the tomb of Gustavus Vasa and his first two wives, the walls of which are covered with frescoes by Professor Sandberg representing the principal events in the life of Vasa. In the next chapel is the tomb of Birger Pehrson, the father of St. Brita, bearing the date of 1328. The remains of Linnæus, the great botanist, lie in the chapel of Gustav Baner, with a mural tablet of red porphyry, on which is a bronze medallion, with a portrait of the botanist by Sergel.

The University of Upsala was founded in 1477, and has about 1200 students, each of whose expenses during two annual terms amount to about $300. The library contains over 160,000 volumes and 7000 manuscripts, and comprises many very rare and valuable works. Among the latter is a copy of the four evangelists, with silver letters on parchment, of the 5th century, called the Codex Argenteus. In a small room adjoining the library, filled with relics and portraits of Swedish sovereigns, is a likeness of Gustavus Vasa, believed to be the only authentic one in existence.

Gamla Upsala, three miles from New Upsala, contains the immense mounds which mark the burial-places of Odin, Thor, and Freya, from whom we derive the names of our Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday.

Brahe, whom Gustavus Adolphus desired to make his wife, but was prevented by the schemes of his mother, who married her to Jacob de la Gardie during his absence. Some of the king's letters to Ebba are still preserved in the library here.

This room contains the largest private collection of manuscripts existing in Sweden, in addition to nearly 25,000 volumes.

One room is entirely devoted to souvenirs of different sovereigns. In the armory, which contains an immense number of fire-arms of all descriptions, as well as swords, sabres, shields, poniards, etc., notice the shield of the Emperor Charles V., by Benvenuto Cellini, taken at Prague; also the sword used in beheading the nobles at the execution of Linköping.

The chateau may always be visited, whether the family be residing there or not, and travelers may find, if necessary, board and lodging for the night at the inspector's house close by.

ROUTE 85.-From Stockholm to St. Petersburg.

The steamers of the "Bolaget Turkie" line sail daily in summer from Stockholm to St. Petersburg, stopping at Abo, Helsingfors, and Wiborg, and making the voyage in four days in good weather. These steamers are very comfortable, the fare reasonable-$10 for the trip, and $1 25 daily for three meals-and the captains most obliging, as the author does not hesitate to aver from his personal experience during a passage with Captain Fogel

Returning to Stockholm by steamer, we pass on our way the castle of Skokloster, built by the celebrated Marshal Wrangel, which has passed by marriage into the hands of the Brahe family, lineal descend-holm. ants of the great astronomer. Its position on a high bank, overlooking the Maelar and its surrounding country, very fine. This castle contains many interesting collections, as well as several objects brought back as prizes during the Thirty-Years' War. Among the latter, notice a very old inlaid cabinet, with subjects colored and in high relief. The drawing-room likewise contains some fine tapestry, and cabinets filled with costly objects in ivory, carnelian, amber, Venetian glass, etc. There is also a collection of portraits belonging to the castle of members of the family, and of the Scottish companions in arms of Marshal Wrangel. Among them the visitor will see with interest that of Tycho Brahe; also the likeness of the beautiful Ebba

Those only who have sailed through the Manitoulines of Lake Huron, or explored the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence, can imagine the beauty of this whole voyage from the time of leaving Stockholm until Helsingfors is reached. The multitudinous islets continue during the entire passage, with two small intermissions-between those that line the coast of Sweden and the Ahlands, and between the latter and those that line the coast of Finlandthe eternal granite ever lifting itself out of the water, and ever crowned with luxuriant forests of firs and birches.

The Ahland Islands (pronounced Ohland) are about 300 in number, 80 of which are inhabited by some 15,000 people. The fortress of Bomarsund, on the principal island,

was taken by the combined British and protected by the fortress of Sweaborg, French fleets in August, 1854.

After a sail of eighteen hours the steamers reach Abo (pronounced Obo), the ancient capital of Finland. This was at one time one of the principal provinces of Sweden, wrested from her in 1809 by Russian forces, who crossed the frontier without any declaration of war, and by overwhelming numbers decided the fate of the duchy. It is, however, as nearly independent as a province can be, coining its own money (marks and pennies, about equal to francs and centimes) and making its own laws. The sympathies of the people of Abo being strongly Swedish, the Russian government, as a punishment, removed the capital to Helsingfors.

Abo stands on the Aurajoke, about three miles from the gulf; it is a place of considerable importance, and has much improved during the last five years. Population, 25,000. Ship-building is carried on to some extent; there are also numerous cotton-mills and sugar-refineries. Butter, cattle, and wood are exported to Stockholm in large quantities. Near the steamers' wharf there is a very nice café, where an hour may be pleasantly spent should the sights be exhausted before the departure of the steamer; it is immediately opposite the Societats Haus, the only hotel in the place. Abo is the seat of an archbishopric. The cathedral was the first Christian temple in this northern land; but its saints have been destroyed, altars demolished, walls whitewashed, and columns pewed. Its treasures are a few old monuments and the bodies of various dignitaries, which, after the lapse of a few centuries, have been converted into adipocere. The streets of the town are very wide, and the houses mostly of one story.

Helsingfors is reached after a three-hours' sail from Abo. This is now the capital of Finland, and has certainly one of the strongest of naturally fortified harbors. The channel is not more than 200 feet wide-not half the width of that at Balaklava-and through this all vessels of war must pass. On either side the channel is VOL. III.-I

called the Gibraltar of the North-not that there is any resemblance to that celebrated stronghold except in strength.

This citadel, in August, 1855, was attacked by the combined British and French fleets, but not taken, though some damage was sustained. The harbor is very good-suitable for the heaviest line-of-battle ships.

Helsingfors has a population of 16,000. Hôtel Kleineh. The new Greek church, seen on a hill to the right as you enter the harbor, is very imposing: it is built of brick in the usual style of Greek churches, with a large gilt dome surmounted by a Greek cross, and surrounded by thirteen smaller domes, also gilt. All parts of the roof or different domes on which the rain could fall are of zinc, painted white, which gives the building the appearance of having been visited by a snow-storm. The University of Helsingfors has a library of 40,000 volumes. The town was nearly destroyed by fire some forty years ago, since which time it has been rebuilt with plastered and yellow-washed houses, giving it the appearance of a town built to order. The town-hall is quite a fine building; there is also a very good theatre, situated in the public square.

It

Wiborg is twelve hours distant from Helsingfors. This is one of the principal towns of Finland, and was taken from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710, since which time it has belonged to Russia. contains 20,000 inhabitants and 5000 soldiers, fine-looking men. Hotels, Imatra (after the falls) and Societats Haus. The town is of wide extent, surrounded by rivers, canals, etc., and much resembling Washington in former years. Chief exports, butter and wood.

As the vessel steams along the Gulf of Finland, the dome of St. Isaac's Church is visible long before reaching St. Petersburg. The steamer arrives at Cronstadt after a sail of eight hours and a half, and, passing its docks filled with shipping, arrives in another hour at its place of anchorage near St. Petersburg. 835

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