early age of nineteen years, leaving his throne to the German Charles. Had he lived, the chances are Spain would have been first among the nations of the earth to-day. A railroad will soon be finished to the capital.

From Madrid to Toledo via Aranjuez, distance 55 miles. Fare, 1st class, 37 r.; time, 2 h. 40 m.

diate answer was, 'Had it been a monk, that would have been news;' and, not wishing to renounce the good old recreations of his royal ancestors, 'he never missed Herradura,' to which he took his wives and delicate maids of honor, just as Philip IV. did his. The cream of the funcion was seeing an operation performed on young bulls which fitted them for the plow." Again: "It was at Aranjuez that Charles IV., in order to save his wife's minion, Godoy, abdicated the crown in favor of Ferdinand VII. Toreno prints all the disgraceful let

By no means omit stopping at Aranjuez. By taking the early train you can remain there all day, proceeding in the evening to Toledo. When the queen is here the palace can not be visited; the gardens, how-ters written by him and his wife, the proud ever, may. She usually makes Aranjuez her residence from April until June, and one or two months after is the best time to visit it, as most of the pictures and furniture are removed to Madrid every autumn. The palace and gardens are but a short distance from the dépôt.

The Emperor Charles V. was the first sovereign who honored Aranjuez by residing here in the early part of the sixteenth century. It was much improved by his son, Philip II., and entirely rebuilt by Philip V.; altered and rejuvenated by Charles IV. It suffered considerably when Spain was invaded by the French. The palace contains some very fine pictures by Titian, Jordaens, etc., and is filled with other works of art. But the beauty and charm of this place is its lovely gardens, cascades, and fountains-the last always playing on fête days. The gardener will point out the principal fountains and places of interest, and will expect a fee of one franc for a party, or you may visit the premises alone. It was in this palace that Charles IV. abdicated, March, 1808, in favor of Ferdinand VII., instigated by Godoy. The town of Aranjuez is beautifully situated on the banks of the Tagus, in one of the most lovely and fertile spots in Spain. It contains some 5000 inhabitants, but is often increased to 25,000 during the few weeks of spring when royalty delights to forget its cares. Hotel Infanta.

An English hand-book takes particular pains to depreciate every thing Spanish and French, and to extol, in comparison, every thing English. In speaking of Aranjuez, it says of the "beloved" Ferdinand VII., "The first dispatch he sent to the grave council of Madrid was, 'A nun has been brought to bed of twins.' The imme

monarchs of Castile! to Murat, their 'very dear brother!' to Murat, who a few years before had been a pot-house waiter, and who, six years afterward, deluged their capital with Spanish blood. Godoy, a vile tool of Bonaparte, was thus saved in order to consummate his guilt and folly by signing, with Duroc at Bayonne, the transfer of Spain to France, stipulating only-mean to the last-for filthy lucre and pensions." "A railroad-thanks to English heads and hands—was begun May 4, 1846, which will in due time be carried to Cadiz, Alicante, and Valencia. Meantime many a civilized Castilian, pointing at this bit, inquires proudly and patronizingly of the traveling Briton, 'Have you got these advantage in England?"" These roads have all been finished by French heads and hands since the "traveling Briton" was here.

In about one and a half hours we arrive at Toledo, which presents, in the distance, seated on its high hills, a most imposing aspect. Don't, when you enter its walls, and wind through its tortuous, narrow, dirty, and neglected streets, say, "Why did I come out of my route to see this ruin ?" One glance into its magnificent cathedral will repay fifty times the distance.

Toledo is situated on a peninsula formed by the River Tagus. Contains a population of 14,000 souls. The principal hotels are the Fonda de Lino and Fonda de Norte. The last overlooks the Zocodover, or market square-an amusing spot once a week. Toledo formerly contained a quarter of a million of inhabitants. It is said to be the oldest city in Europe, built a short time after the flood, but mostly peopled by the Jews, who were then called Amalekites,

Cora, or choir, which is placed in the centre corners of his wife's tomb are two monks of the church. It contains some magnifi- and two nuns. Adjoining this chapel is cent sculptures, both in wood and marble. that of the Capilla de los Reyos Nuevos, or The backs of the lower stalls are carved to New Kings. Make the youth in attendrepresent the campaigns of Ferdinand and ance draw aside the curtains which inclose Isabella. The seats are divided by red the figures of Henry III. and Catilini, his marble pillars: over the upper stalls the wife, who was daughter of John of Gaunt; genealogy of Christ is carved in marble. also Henry II., his wife, and their son In the centre is the Facistol, which is com- Juan: a fee of two reals is expected here; posed of a metal eagle standing on Gothic also four reals to the custodian of the cora. towers, the towers resting on a base form- On the opposite side of the cora from this ed of beautifully-carved bronze statues in is the magnificent Chapel of San Ildefonso. niches. Opposite the cora, and also in the This tutelar saint was Primate of Toledo central part of the Cathedral, is the Capil- during the early part of the seventh cenla Major, or principal chapel. It is kept tury. He was the great champion of the closed, but through the bars of the gate Virgin, and wrote and preached much, admay be seen the elegant workmanship. vocating the doctrine of the perpetual virThe retablo, which is ascended by jasper ginity, in consideration of which the Virsteps, is divided into five parts; each part gin descended from heaven, and, seating represents, in exquisite carving, some scene herself in the primate's seat, remained in the life of the Savior or Virgin Mary: during matins, chanting the service, at the they were mostly executed by Juan de Bor- end of which she placed the casulla, or gona. Here lie buried some of the ancient cassock, over his neck, saying, "It came kings, Alonzo VII., Sancho the Brave, and from the treasures of my son.' Ildefonthe Infante Don Pedro. The chapel con- so's successor tried to sit down on the tains but three monuments: that on the same chair, but was expelled by angels, right of the retablo, Ferdinand; that on the since which time no one has dared to try left, Isabella: near the entrance on the left the experiment. The Virgin has descendis the monument to Mendoza, the all-pow-ed to this chapel several times since. At erful minister. Examine the Transperente the Moorish invasion both Ildefonso's body behind the high altar of the Capilla Major. and the casulla were carried away. The This marvel of sculpture is said to have body was discovered by a miracle, and in cost $1,200,000: it is mostly the work of the year 1270 a chapel was erected on the Narcisa Tome. It is the largest piece of site. It is said the casulla is in Oviedo, sculpture by one artist in the world, and, but invisible to mortal eyes. The saint's notwithstanding the editor of an English monument stands in the centre of the chapHand-book (Mr. Ford) criticises it severe- el. The receiving the casulla was a favorly, deserves high praise. We think he ite subject with Spanish artists. Notice must have examined it very carelessly. at the other end of the church in the ChapFor instance: he says, "Observe a pair of el of the Decencion: the subject is very legs, with no body to them, kicking out of beautifully sculptured. Behind this chapthe solid clouds." There is a body to them, el is the real stone on which the Virgin's that of an angel, head downward, holding foot pressed. The opening is pointed out, in his hand a fish full four feet long! The about six inches square it is covered with top of this elegant composition is ninety small steel bars, that you may be able to feet high, and as wide as the entire chapel. put your finger through and feel the stone. Immediately opposite is the "Destruction It is worn into holes by the frequent touchof the Temple," by the same artist, 180 ing of the pilgrims' fingers. feet high: contiguous to this is the Chapel of Santiago, erected by the Constable Alvara de Luna, who was executed at Valladolid. The two monuments in the centre of the chapel are those of the Constable and his wife Juana, erected by their daughter Maria. At the corners of Alvara's tom are four knights kneeling, and at the

Adjoining San Ildefonso's chapel is the Chapter-house, or la sa Capitular de Invierno. It contains all the portraits of the Cardinals of Toledo, commencing with San Eugenius, A.D. 103, down to Jos Bonel y Orbe, died 1857; 94 in all. Since the commencement of the 16th century the portraits are all genuine. Four out of the

number are saints. The ceiling of this chapel is most magnificent.

renzo.

The walls of the Alcazar, the fourth which has been erected on the site, are all that remains of that once magnificent building. It was totally destroyed by the English during the War of the Succession. The view from its gardens and tumbling walls is most magnificent.

On the way to the Royal Foundery, which is about a mile outside the walls, visit the church of San Juan de los Reyes and the remains of the Franciscan convent. Notice the votive chains hanging outside the

Capilla Mozarabe, under the unfinished tower, is beautifully frescoed by Juan de Borgona, representing the campaign of Oran. Notice a splendid mosaic Holy Family, brought from Italy by Cardinal LoThe Sacristie, Sagrario, and Ochavo are perhaps the most interesting portions of the cathedral, containing as they do all the relics, dresses, and most valuable pictures. The ceiling of the Sacristia is beautifully frescoed by Luca Giordano, and rep-building, and the beautiful carving of the resents the Presentation of the Casulla by different doorways. This was formerly the the Virgin. One of the principal objects court chapel, and its Gothic architecture of attraction is the Custodia, which is car- is considered the very perfection of the art. ried in procession during the Fête Dieu : it Even Napoleon and Wellington's soldiers is silver gilt, sixteen feet high, and covered respected it; for, although the former used with precious stones; it was mostly con- it as a stable, it is in a remarkably high structed by Henry de Arpli, his son, and state of preservation, and the ceilings, grandson, and occupied one hundred years though frescoed 380 years ago, are as fresh in its construction. It is composed of as if painted yesterday. nearly 80,000 different parts; notice particularly the black wooden image of the Virgin, called the Virgin of the Sanctuary, seated on a throne, over which hangs a canopy all resplendent in gold and silver. On fête days she is arrayed in magnificent old silks, richly trimmed with laces, gold, silver, and pearls; on her head a crown of diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and other precious stones; her mantle has twenty-one pounds of pearl-dust embroidered on it, with eighty-five thousand pearls, and immense quantities of diamonds, rubies, amethysts, and other precious stones. The Ochavo contains all the relics and splendid dresses owned by the Virgin Mary. seph must have done a splendid business in the building line to have afforded all this luxury! and all intended to represent the rustic, simple, Blessed Virgin, either as she lived on earth or reigns in heaven.

Jo

The Royal Sword Manufactory is situated about two miles from the city, close to the river which turns its machinery. Here all the swords for the Spanish army are made. Mr. Borrow, when visiting Toledo, asked one of the workmen whether the secret of tempering the blades had been lost.

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'Ça!' said he; 'the swords of Toledo were never so good as those which we are daily making. It is ridiculous enough to see strangers coming here to purchase old swords, the greater part of which are mere rubbish, and never made at Toledo; yet for such they will give a large price, while they will grudge two dollars for this jewel, which was made but yesterday,' thereupon putting into my hand a middle-sized rapier. Your worship,' said he, 'seems to have a strong arm: prove its temper against the stone wall-thrust boldly, and

fear not.'

Among the relics notice a piece of the "I have a strong arm, and dashed the true cross; also a much venerated statue point with my utmost force against the of the infant Savior in gold. A whole day solid granite: my arm was numbed to the may be well spent in examining the differ- shoulder from the violence of the concusent cloisters, chapels, monuments, and pic- sion, and continued so for nearly a week; tures; in fact, there is little else to be seen but the sword appeared to be not at all at Toledo; although there are innumerable blunted, or to have suffered in any respect. churches, monasteries, nunneries, and oth-'A better sword than that,' said the ancient er religious buildings, they are of not much workman, a native of old Castile, 'never importance. transfixed a Moor out yonder on the Sa

The Foundling Hospital of Santa Cruz is a beautiful piece of architecture, and well worth a visit.

gra.'

The machinery of the factory is now turned by a steam-engine, erected in 1862,