was here, only the sound of the river, the creaking of the wheels at intervals, and the intermitting voices of groups of Arabs, men and women, who passed at intervals along the bank; the twilight did not steal slowly as in England, but fell swiftly and solemnly. On retiring to rest, clean sheets were put on the divan, in the adjoining room appropriated to guests. The bazaar of Antioch is a meagre affair after those of Damascus, which resemble streets with lofty roofs, and are lined with shops, stalls, magazines, and coffee-houses: their magazines are full of merchandise of all kinds, from various nations; the grand bazaar is more than a mile long; it is traversed all day by crowds of all ranks, and of both sexes. There are agas and men of distinction, clothed in long garments of crimson silk, their sabres enriched with diamonds; they have each followers or slaves, who march silently behind them: ladies of rank and wealth, the wives and daughters of the principal people, are daily met with in these bazaars, where they come to lounge, to look at the various goods and stuffs, see the passengers, and make bargains. BATTLE-FIELD OF ISSUS. This beautiful scene is believed to be the spot where the celebrated battle was fought; and agrees more faithfully with the descriptions of the ancient writers than any other in this region. The plain between the foot of the mountain and the sea is two miles wide; and a stream, that answers to the ancient description of the river Pinarus, flows through it. On the right rise the noble heights of Mount Amanus, through the defile in which Darius fled after his defeat. In the middle of the plain, apparently beneath the mountain, is Payass, or Issus, a small town, consisting chiefly of half-ruined bazaars, and almost uninhabited. Some of its dilapidated places are also seen on the eminence on the extreme right, and on that just above the sea. In the distance is Scanderoon. The passage over this memorable scene is difficult, and overgrown in some parts with thickets and long grass; yet it well repays the trouble of a visit from Scanderoon, from which it is distant about three hours. Though, from the confined nature of the scene, it may not be so easy to trace its absolute identity with that of the great battle, nature has stamped it with some of those enduring features of resemblance and truth, sufficient to induce the traveller to linger over it with hope and enthusiasm. The view from the ruin on the right is magnificent towards the close of day, when the sun is sinking on the beautiful bay, on the heights of Amanus, and on many a mountain-summit beyond. Yet a sad feeling of solitariness creeps over the mind: there is not a resting-place for the night: the melancholy Payass is deserted, save by the man who keeps the key of the gate of its only street-and Scanderoon is a poor home to the wanderer. |