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heights presented, of low and rolling masses of cloud, forests bent before the driving blasts, and mountaineers from the neighbourhood, as well as towns-people, exposed to their violence. The floor of the cafe was always crowded, and often with a picturesque assemblage, various in their dresses, their faiths, arms, and usages. It was sometimes fortunate that their strongest beverage was coffee; had it been ardent spirits, or wine, at discretion, which the Prophet was most wise in forbidding, blood would have been shed, and life taken. In this building, and among this motley people, of Druse, Maronite, Turk, and Greek, he often passed many hours, till it was evening; for what comfort was it to return to the khan, and be alone? each merchant and trader was busy about his own affairs, and at the close of day he would repair also to his chamber, and there would be something like society: the Damascene and the Syrian from the coast would come to the stranger's room, to sip his coffee, and smoke their pipe, talk of their dealings, of the war, or their distant homes. At these little re-unions, the wine of Lebanon found its way, and was not refused, in moderation, by any one, for they were mostly Christians: at times the mountain ballad was sung, and the tale told, while the little charcoal fire burned, and the rains still fell heavily without How vividly, and like a mocking vision, when the mountain winds were cold, did the noble log-fires of Switzerland, and the rich and brilliant turf-fires of Ireland, flash across the fancy. The East is no land for the cheerful, social, inspiring hearth; its charcoal fires are meagre things: the woods of Lebanon can supply a better resource ; but in this neighbourhood there were few forests. Beneath the gate of Adalia there is a beautiful spring, which is the very life of its population: a large cup, according to Turkish usage throughout the East, is suspended by a chain; and many are the draughts that are taken daily and hourly of its cold and clear water. When the Smyrna caravan arrives and enters here, with what eagerness its people of every rank drink of this spring, after their long and sultry travel! it is an interesting sight, as they wind up and along the bold hill, and among its ruinous places. The city may be said to be still fortified, and even strongly so, being enclosed by a ditch, a double wall, and a series of square towers about fifty yards asunder. In the suburbs, the houses are dispersed amid orange groves and gardens, and thus occupy a large space of ground. Granite columns, and a great variety of fragments of ancient sculpture, attest its former importance as a Greek city: among others, a magnificent gate, or triumphal arch, bears an inscription in honour of Adrian. Adalia is still a large and populous town, and is considered as one of the best governments in Anatolia, the district being large and in many parts fertile, and the maritime commerce extensive. The population is estimated at eight thousand; two-thirds Mahomedans, and one-third Greeks, who speak chiefly the Turkish language. Five lofty minarets are seen from the sea; and the first view of Adalia, on entering its little harbour, is striking in a remarkable degree—its massive old walls and towers, its few columns and fragments of ruins, its slender minarets, and its castle: were the interior of Eastern towns often as captivating as their exterior, what delightful places they would be! One of the minarets is fluted from the base up to the gallery that surrounds the head of the shaft. The gardens are very pretty, with citrons, palms, and ##*
vines, shady, and fragrant with the perfume of blossoms: the corn-lands in the neighbourhood are very productive. The soil is deep, and often intersected by streams, which, after fertilizing the plain, fall over the cliffs, or turn the corn-mills in their descent to the sea. During the greater part of the year, alternate breezes refresh the air: by day, a sea-breeze sweeps strongly up the western side of the gulf; and at night, the great northern valley which traverses Mount Taurus conducts the land wind from the cold mountains of the interior. In the bazaar, there is cloth, hardware, and various specimens of English and German manufactures, brought chiefly by the regular caravans from Smyrna. Adalia is governed by a pasha, and is the chief place in the district of Tekieh, which includes the coast of Pamphylia and Lycia. It derived its name from its founder, Attalus Philadelphus, to whom Philadelphia also owes its origin. It was once a bishop's see, though the episcopal church is now converted into a mosque. The church had once a beautiful and wealthy empire in this land: a mitre, and a domain to support it in power and luxury, was a delicious dignity in those days, along this splendid coast: not the Greek seigneur or merchant, but the ecclesiastic, has richest source of tears over the fallen sees of Adalia, Lara, and many other sites of singular attraction. At the distance of a long day's journey from Adalia, is the foot of the great mountain Tacktalu, its bald summit rising in an insulated peak 7800 feet above the sea. This is the Mount Solyma of the ancients: it extends seventy miles to the northward: the base is broken into deep ravines, and covered with small trees; the middle zone, covered with scattered evergreen bushes, appears to be limestone. "It is natural," observes an excellent traveller, "that this stupendous mountain, in a country inhabited by an illiterate and credulous people, should be the subject of numerous tales and traditions: the peasants say that there is a perpetual flow of the very purest water from the apex, and that notwithstanding the snow which still lingered on the declivities, roses blow there all the year round. The aga of Delichtash assured us, that every autumn a mighty groan is heard to issue from the summit of the mountain, louder than the report of any cannon. He professed his ignorance of the cause, but being pressed for his opinion, gravely replied, that he believed it was an annual summons to the elect to make the best of their way to Paradise." On a small peninsula, at the foot of this mountain, are the remains of the city of Phaselis, with its three ports and its lake, as described by Strabo. The lake is now a mere swamp, occupying the middle of the isthmus.