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remove their conical cap, the long thick locks fall down their face and shoulders, with a luxuriance as if belonging to a Leila, rather than an uncleanly dervise. His face was pale, and his eyes large, stupid, and restless; he sat down, and partook of some coffee, but it was impossible to get any intelligent words or ideas out of him, and he soon marched off, to fraternize with the peasantry. A lady, with her slave, is seen in the middle of the plate: the sellers and buyers take every thing calmly and indolently, the former sitting cross-legged in their little shops.
The hope that Antioch would soon become a place of commerce and pleasure, is defeated by the wreck of Colonel Chesney's expedition. Had this succeeded, and the Orontes been made navigable from Suadeah to this city, its streets, bazaars, and beautiful river would have been alive with foreign trade and shipping, and European merchants and strangers. By what unforeseen disasters did this splendid enterprise miscarry, without any misconduct or oversight on the part of its directors? It is a cruel disappointment: so many rich realities, so many beautiful speculations, were built upon the opening of this route down the Euphrates! Let us hope that it is not finally abandoned; or, that it will be resumed in a few years by national enterprise. A water communication from the mouth, and along neaily the whole course of the Orontes, and then by a canal of sixty miles to the Euphrates, would enable the merchant to pour his goods into the fine countries on either side; emigrants would find a rich climate and soil in the wildernesses of Asia Minor; and the traveller would pass in ease and comfort to the ruins, the deserts, and towns of the ancient river, even to the Persian Gulf.
The aspect of Antioch is much improved since its possession by Ibrahim Pasha: his officers and agents enliven the streets and walks. The traveller need not say that all is barren, where the French, the Pole, the Nubian, and the Egyptian are sometimes met in a festive party, all serving one ambitious and successful master: their spirits have caught some of the excitement and aspiring of his master-spirit; this adventurous soldiery are full of enthusiasm for Ibrahim; the Orientals have an unbounded confidence in his fortune, with which they blend a religious prestige, believing him to be called by God to effect mighty changes in the East. The traveller in these countries should seek observation and society every where; he is no longer confined chiefly to the coffeehouse and the khan, and an occasional interview with the great men; the successes of the invader have made all ranks more accessible; the conventional and unvarying habits of the East are breaking down, little by little, and a new excitement is given to its monotonous life and modes of thinking.
Groups of horsemen and peasants are met with by the side of the river, which flows swiftly through gardens, where the creaking of the wheels used for irrigation is heard throughout the day. Without the walls, the new palace of Ibrahim is constructed in a pleasant situation; and he has demolished part of the ancient walls and towers, to furnish materials. Proceeding through the mud-walled streets, you stop at a gate, which is opened on knocking, and step into the court of the house; this is the house where the European finds hospitality. It was a delicious evening: the latticed window looked beyond the environs on the solitary plain: nothing like the hum of a large city was here, only the sound of the river, the creaking of the wheels at intervals, and the intermitting voices of groups of Arabs, men and women, who passed at intervals along the bank; the twilight did not steal slowly as in England, but fell swiftly and solemnly. On retiring to rest, clean sheets were put on the divan, in the adjoining room appropriated to guests. The bazaar of Antioch is a meagre affair after those of Damascus, which resemble streets with lofty roofs, and are lined with shops, stalls, magazines, and coffee-houses: their magazines are full of merchandise of all kinds, from various nations; the grand bazaar is more than a mile long; it is traversed all day by crowds of all ranks, and of both sexes. There are agas and men of distinction, clothed in long garments of crimson silk, their sabres enriched with diamonds; they have each followers or slaves, who march silently behind them: ladies of rank and wealth, the wives and daughters of the principal people, are daily met with in these bazaars, where they come to lounge, to look at the various goods and stuffs, see the passengers, and make bargains. BATTLE-FIELD OF ISSUS. This beautiful scene is believed to be the spot where the celebrated battle was fought; and agrees more faithfully with the descriptions of the ancient writers than any other in this region. The plain between the foot of the mountain and the sea is two miles wide; and a stream, that answers to the ancient description of the river Pinarus, flows through it On the right rise the noble heights of Mount Amanus, through the defile in which Darius fled after his defeat. In the middle of the plain, apparently beneath the mountain, is Payass, or Issus, a small town, consisting chiefly of half-ruined bazaars, and almost uninhabited. Some of its dilapidated places are also seen on the eminence on the extreme right, and on that just above the sea. In the distance is Scanderoon. The passage over this memorable scene is difficult, and overgrown in some parts with thickets and long grass; yet it well repays the trouble of a visit from Scanderoon, from which it is distant about three hours. Though, from the confined nature of the scene, it may not be so easy to trace its absolute identity with that of the great battle, nature has stamped it with some of those enduring features of resemblance and truth, sufficient to induce the traveller to linger over it with hope and enthusiasm. The view from the ruin on the right is magnificent towards the close of day, when the sun is sinking on the beautiful bay, on the heights of Amanus, and on many a mountain-summit beyond. Yet a sad feeling of solitariness creeps over the mind: there is not a resting-place for the night: the melancholy Payass is deserted, save by the man who keeps the key of the gate of its only street—and Scanderoon is a poor home to the wanderer.