Descending the mountain into Italy, was a complete transit into a clime and scenes as different as can be imagined. The country, its productions and inhabitants-earth, air and sky, all exhibited a different appearance, not only from the mountains through which we had just passed, but from the countries north of Switzerland; the balmy air, the golden haze which gave the sky its mellow softness, the trellised vineyards, so different from the short clumpy vines, trained to straight sticks, as the grapes are cultivated in Central Europe; and above all, the lazy, listless, bare-legged lazzaroni, and mantilla-veiled women, all proclaimed that we had entered Italy. The difference was as marked as that of day and night, and the transition as sudden almost as thought. We passed through Domo d'Ossola and Baveno, by the shore of the Lago Maggiore, a beautiful lake, having a view of the famous Borromean Islands, &c., to Milan, where we arrived about twelve at night, having been chased several miles by brigands; at least, so said our driver, for we saw nothing of the rogues, although he seemed to be terrified almost to death, driving his horses, for several miles, under the lash, on a full gallop, until, when we arrived at the gates, they were scarcely able to stand. We were rather amused at his evident terror-rising every minute, in his seat to look back; but we could not induce him to slacken his speed, although his poor horses were staggering, from side to side of the road, with exhaustion. We thought, at first, that he was attempting to excite our fears, in order to get a bribe from

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us to drive fast, but we soon perceived that it was actual terror, for we could not get him to stop on any consideration. If there really was danger, then, perhaps, this was another instance of a watchful Providence over our safety, for which we had reason to be thankful.

CHAPTER XX.

Milan-Churches-The Last Supper, by Da Vinci-Opera Houses-Parting with Colonel Davis-Venice-Byron--Rialto-Bridge of Sighs-Doge's Palace and State Dungeons-Plaza of St. Marc.

HE entrance to Milan, from the Simplon road, is by a splendid triumphal arch, called the Arch of Peace. It is of marble, profusely ornamented with sculptures in full and bas-relief. On the top of it is a bronze figure of Peace, in a car drawn by six horses, of colossal size. The arch was begun in 1807, but not finished until 1838; the total cost being about seven hundred thousand dollars. There are some splendid churches in Milan, but detailed descriptions of them would soon become as wearisome to the reader as our visits actually became tedious to us. So much money, and so much art and taste, have been expended on the churches of Italy, and other Catholic countries, that they are well worth seeing; and, as travelers, who desired to see every thing that is curious, we could not omit a hurried visit to all the churches of interest; but there are very few that would be calculated to interest any one by a labored description. The Duomo, or Cathedral, at this place, is an immense edifice, four hundred and eighty-five feet long, two hundred and fifty broad in the body, and two hundred and eighty-seven between the ends of the transept. This church has many splendid chapels, and fine statuary and paintings. The church

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of St. Alexander is highly decorated with works of art; among which, I cannot omit to mention a Madonna and Child, in mosaic, which was really wonderful, surpassing in fineness and effect, at the distance from which we saw it, any painting of the same subject; the high altar is completely studded with precious stones-many of them of great price. Beneath the church is a vault containing the coffin of SAN CARLO BORROMEO. The vault is lined throughout, on the walls and ceiling, with massive silver figures, in bold relief; the coffin is of pure rock crystal and silver; the dried mummy of the saint is seen through it, with a rich gold crown suspended over the head, the work of BENVENUTO CELLINI; a crosier, set with gems, lies at his side, and his fingers are loaded with jewels. The whole affair is very rich and valuable-said to be worth more than the shrine of the three kings of Cologne. In the church. of Santa Maria delle Grazie, or rather in the refectory of some conventual buildings, attached to the church is, however, an object of surpassing interest, that, even in its injured state, has still enough of its original beauty and perfection left, to give a very clear idea of what it must have been when it came fresh from the hands of its creator; for creative. power, (in the fullest sense in which the word may be applied to the work of a human being,) is traced in every part of the picture that remains in its original state. I allude to the painting of the Last Supper, by LEONARDO DA VINCI. It is executed in the fresco style, on the wall; and has been much injured by

parts having cracked, and peeled off; by some portions of it having been repainted, and by the apartment having been used as cavalry stables, by a rude and reckless soldiery. It was begun in 1493, and occupied LEONARDO sixteen years in the completion. "In 1652, the monks, wishing to enlarge the door, cut away CHRIST'S feet, and those of some of the apostles, and by shaking the wall in cutting it away, brought off parts of the surface. It was also much injured in 1800, by a flood of water, which covered the refectory to a considerable depth. The place was afterward drained, and every thing done to preserve the remains of the painting. It is now scaling off, not very rapidly, but incessantly; and this is perhaps the last generation whose eyes will behold its beauties, even yet so transcendent in their irreparable decay." I cannot but congratulate myself upon having seen this wonder of the world, although in its very imperfect state.

There is a beautiful drive on the outskirts of the city, bordered by trees. Milan has always been celebrated for its gayety and fashion in dress; so much so, that it is said the designation of that indispensable class of persons, in all communities, called milliners, is derived from the name of the city. We visited the celebrated opera house of La Scala, which divides the palm with that of San Carlo, at Naples, the two most celebrated houses in Europe; it was undergoing repairs, and there was no performance, so that we had not the opportunity to see it lighted up. We, however, visited the Carcano, as we could not