Ranulph, with, of course, some repairs and changes by subsequent owners; but the quadrangle inclosing it is the work of the Nevilles. The central keep is a good specimen of the Norman work of the close of the twelfth century. The arch over the staircase leading to the great hall is worthy of notice. The different apartments will be pointed out by the person who has charge of the ruins. The walls of the keep are of great thickness, and the mortar seems to be almost as durable as the stone itself. Solid masses of masonry lie here and there in the area of the castle; and, in some places, ponderous piles hang overhead, with very little support other than is afforded by the tenacity of the mortar, and apparently in defiance of gravitation.

"As a specimen of architecture," says Dr. Whitaker, "Middleham Castle is an unique, but not a happy work. The Norman keep, the fortress of the first lords, not being sufficient for the vast trains and princely habits of the Nevilles, was inclosed, at no long period before Leland's time, by a complete quadrangle, which almost entirely darkened what was dark enough before; and the first structure now stands completely insulated in the centre of a later work, of no very ample dimensions within, and nearly as high as itself. I must, however, suppose that the original keep was surrounded by a baily, occupying nearly the same space as the present quadrangular work. Within the original building are the remains of a magnificent hall and chapel; but it might be difficult to pronounce whether the first or second work consists of the more massive and indissoluble grout work."

The castle has been surrounded by a moat, which can be partially traced. On the south side of the castle there is a

fine echo.

The Church of Middleham is worth a visit. It appears from its style to belong to the latter part of the fifteenth century. Richard III. entertained the intention of making it collegiate; but his death at Bosworth Field prevented this from being accomplished. The east window is filled with old stained glass, representing the martyrdom of St. Alkelda. The doorkeeper also points out a tombstone, probably brought from Jervaux, to serve (like other tombstones here) for pavement, on which the twenty-second abbot of that house is quaintly commemorated by the rebus of a sculptured thorn and tun-his name being Robert Thornton.

COVERHAM ABBEY is in the secluded valley of Coverdale, one of the branches of Wensleydale, and about a mile

and a half from Middleham. This was a priory of Premonstratensian canons, originally founded at Swainby, in 1190, by Helewysia, daughter and heiress of Ralph Glanville, Lord Chief-Justice of England, but subsequently removed to its present position by her son. Scarcely anything is recorded regarding the history of this monastic institution. At the dissolution, its gross annual revenues amounted to £207: 14: 7.

The remains of this abbey are not extensive, yet there is enough left of the old fabric to induce the tourist to linger a little by this wild mountain stream, even though the dale had no other associations. The abbey adjoins a handsome modern residence, in the walls of which are many of its spoils. The principal remains are, a beautiful semicircular-arched gateway, still entire, at some distance from the house, and three piers of the nave of the abbey church, with handsome arches, evidently belonging to the latter part of the thirteenth century. The outline of the church can be traced, as can also those of the quadrangular cloister court and some other conventual buildings. There are three monumental effigies preserved here; two of them the figures of Crusaders in armour, almost perfect, the third a mere torso.

In this dale, in the year 1487, was born Miles Coverdale, the English reformer, and Bishop of Exeter. His translation of the Bible was published at Oxford in 1535. He died in

1580.

LEYBURN* is on the northern side of the Ure, two miles from Middleham. In itself, this small town is uninteresting, the houses being respectable, but not calling for particular notice. The principal edifice is the town-hall, a large and heavy, but substantial building, erected, as an unnecessarily large inscription shows, in 1856. This town will afford convenient and comfortable headquarters to the tourist who may wish to spend a day or two in exploring the beauties of the lower part of Wensleydale; and now that it can be easily and rapidly reached by railway, it will probably be oftener visited than it has hitherto been. The parish-church is at Wensley, a mile and a half distant, but a plain chapel has been lately built here.

The Shawl, a high natural terrace about a mile long, to the west of the town, affords a delightful walk. The views obtained from this walk are of such exquisite beauty, that

* INNS.-Bolton Arms, John Ridley-Bed 1s., breakfast 1s. 9d., dinner 2s., tea 1s. 6d. Crown Inn; Golden Sheaf; Oddfellows' Arms.

From Northallerton, 18 miles (rail); from Richmond, 8; from Ripon, 21.

R

probably most tourists will acknowledge that it would be worth while to go a good many miles out of their way to see such a landscape. The Shawl commands such a view as can be seen only in Yorkshire and in Wensleydale. The broad, extensive vale lies spread out below, charmingly wooded, and divided, by hedgerows and walls, into meadows and fields of corn and green crops. On the higher ground beyond is a long tract of moorland, that part of the heights opposite to the Shawl being famous as the training ground of many of the best race-horses in England. A little to the right, an eminence of somewhat peculiar appearance rises from the range of high ground on that side of the valley. This bold height is Penhill, an object of some interest to the geologist, being formed of a mass of gritstone, while the whole of this district consists of limestone. The view away in the distance, to the right, takes in the ruins of Bolton Castle; while, to the left, is Middleham, the frowning old keep of the King-Maker. The centre of the view is not less pleasing. The wood, extending from the precipice at the feet of the tourist a good way down the hill-side, forms a fine foreground, while in the centre of the dale below lies the hamlet of Wensley, with its handsome church-tower, close upon Bolton Hall and its embowering woods.

WENSLEY. This pretty village, which gives its name to the dale, occupies a beautiful and sheltered position on the north bank of the Ure, a mile and a half from Leyburn. The Church is well worthy of a visit. It is a handsome building, belonging to different periods, the square tower being manifestly of much more recent erection than the body of the church. The choir is supposed to be of the time of Henry III., and the nave of the time of Henry VII. The seat of Lord Bolton's family is inclosed and canopied by curious carved and gilt wood-work. Part of it originally belonged, as the carved inscription shows, to the chantry of Lords Scrope, in Easby Abbey Church, and was removed hither on the destruction of that edifice. There is a curious monumental brass in a stone in the floor, in front of the chancel. The flag over the Bolton seat, and the painted coat of arms suspended over the chancel screen, seem to be rather unfitting ornaments for a place of Christian worship.

In the vestry may be seen one of the oldest parish registers in England. The clerk will also point out some old sculptured stones, two ancient fonts, and other things worthy of the attention of the antiquarian.

Bolton Hall, the seat of Lord Bolton, is close to the village

of Wensley. This handsome edifice was built in 1678, by the Marquis of Winchelsea, first Duke of Bolton, to whom the estate came by his marriage with a daughter of the last Lord Scrope of Bolton. It is surrounded by fine grounds.

West Wilton, about 2 miles from Wensley, by the road which crosses the Ure, is a place of much antiquity, being mentioned in Doomsday Book as among the possessions of Allan, Earl of Richmond. The church is an ancient edifice, probably of the reign of Henry I. A charming view of Wensleydale is to be had from the churchyard.

BOLTON CASTLE is 5 miles from Leyburn, and about the same distance from Wensley. From the former place the tourist may proceed by the Shawl, already described; from the latter he may take the pleasant road through Bolton Park. The Norman doorway of the small church of Redmire is sufficiently interesting to tempt the tourist to turn aside for a moment, should he take the latter route.

Bolton Castle, pronounced by Leland "the fairest in Richmondshire," occupies a conspicuous position on the rocky slope of a bold hill. It was built in the reign of Richard II. by Richard Scrope, high-chancellor of England, at a cost, according to Leland, of 18,000 marks, or £12,000—an enormous sum for those times. The plan of the building is a square, with towers at the corners. The main entrance is in the east curtain, and has been defended by a portcullis. In the centre is an open court.

The south-western tower is inhabited by a person who shews visitors the interior of the castle. The apartments have been small but numerous. There are no traces of Norman or even of early English work about the architecture, externally or internally; but the fortress is a good specimen of the style which prevailed at the close of the fourteenth century. The great hall was in the upper storey of the south side, and the chapel occupied a corresponding position on the north side. Close to the south-west tower is an apartment called "Queen Mary's Room," from the unhappy Queen of Scots, who was confined here for about two years, in the custody of Lord Scrope. There is a tradition that she once attempted to make her escape in the direction of Leyburn, and an opening in the wood, not far from Leyburn, through which she is said to have passed, is still called the "Queen's Gap." Queen Mary left her name on a pane of glass in the window of her apartment, where it was preserved for many years; but, being at length taken to Bolton Hall, it was acci