190 POLICE. SINGULAR VESSELS. adopted here is that of running the gauntlet, in which the culprit is made to pass through a file of his comrades, who strike at him with sticks, as he proceeds along. Officers are punished by being reduced to the lowest rank; even a general may thus not only be broken, but actually compelled to serve as a private soldier! An instance of this had recently taken place, in the case of a commander who was thus punished for having embezzled monies. He did not however long survive his disgrace, as he died shortly afterwards broken-hearted. The troops are exercised in a field adjoining the barracks, neatly laid out with walks, and having a road in the middle lined with trees. The police-officers are distinguished by a particular dress, consisting of a dark green coat, buttoned up in front, with a red collar, cuffs, and leather cap, having a bear-skin on top, similar to that of a dragoon, and a belt round it. When any military officer passes the barrier, those who are stationed there turn out in a body and draw up in a line, each holding a halbert, which he stretches out. It is impossible to figure any objects more curious than the large flat-bottomed boats on the river. These vessels are most rudely constructed, being formed of logs of wood, across which are laid spars. They are not decked, but five enormous beams extend from side to side, to keep them firm. They have also an arched roof, formed of spars covered with straw matting, which is piled to a great height with hemp. These extraordinary boats, which are from 100 to 150 feet in length, and 40 in breadth, look like large floating masses, and are so top-heavy that one expects every minute to see them upset. As soon as their cargo is disposed of, they are broken up, which is speedily done, their construction being so light; and their owners and crews then return home by land. These vessels are called Strusen, and are moored in a particular spot, which is so crowded with them as to appear from a distance like a range of small hills, or like lofty hay-stacks. Droshkas are the only public vehicles here, and before you get into one you have to make a bargain with the driver; there being no regulation as to fares a circumstance that must always lead to imposition. The dress of the drivers is generally a large coarse box-coat; but some of them have velvet collars and cuffs. All wear long beards, and their necks are completely bare and exposed in front. Each wears at his back a piece of lead, on which is marked his number. - There are many clubs or societies, where, on being introduced, a stranger may dine or sup at an abundantly furnished table for a very trifling expence. These are not, however, designated clubs, as such a title is most strictly pro 192 WOLVES. RARE SPECIES OF INSECTS. hibited by an ukase; for the very sound of the term creates alarm and suspicion in the government. In the public gardens are ornamental buildings, and over the entrance of one called the emperor's garden, is put up a notice forbidding persons to walk on the grass, to touch the plants, or to bring dogs with them. Slaves, who are fettered by a block of wood locked round the leg, are employed here to keep the grounds in order. In this garden there are coffee-houses, Chinese temples, &c. and a piece of water. In the centre stands a large tree, planted by Peter the Great, who in fact first planned this spot. The environs of Riga are extremely pleasant, and there are many neat cottages, one story in height, built of wood. The wolves in Livonia commit great destruction, and a curious document has been published by government, showing the extent of their ravages in 1823.* There is said also to be a rare insect here, called the furia infernalis, described by Linnæus. During hot weather, it falls on persons from the air, and its bite produces a swelling which often proves fatal, unless remedies are instantly applied. It is so diminutive as hardly to be visible to the naked eye. 726 lambs 183 kids - 312 sucking pigs — 673 geese. - CHAP. VIII. Departure from Riga.- Posting regulations. Appearance of country. Lake Vidonusk. Vallmar. - Agriculture and implements. - Stockelen. — Valk.-Uddern.- Arrival at Dorpat. HAVING seen every thing of interest the town contained, we now quitted Riga, and, on leaving it, passed through a wide street, at the extremity of which is a modern arch, erected to commemorate the circumstance of this place having been preserved from the treachery of an incendiary, who was apprehended and burned, and whose ashes were buried in the very spot where the record of his guilt stands. On each side of the arch are circular reliefs, having an anchor, cornucopia, and other emblematical devices. As a precaution against the imposition of postmasters, we had obtained a list of all the stages, and the number of versts between each; which proved of great service in settling disputes at the different post-houses, as to charges and distances. Were the Prussian practice adopted here, by which the post-master gives to travellers a paper containing the number of miles, and the charges for horses at each station, accompanied with a receipt for the sum paid him, it would most effectually check extortion. We had six VOL. I. horses, two of which were next the carriage, and the four others in front, and at the end of the pole was suspended a large bell. The rates of posting are less here than in Sweden, and hardly exceed 1d. per English mile. The road was sandy, and the country uninteresting; sometimes it was wood, at others heath; and the only building we met was occasionally a solitary cottage without any chimney, the smoke issuing through a small aperture intended as a window. After proceeding through this barren district for some time, we passed a convent, for females, situated at the side of the road. From an elevation beyond this there was a view of con siderable extent, scattered with wood and a few straggling huts; but the picture was dark and gloomy, and the country seemed nearly in a state of desertion, not a creature being to be seen. Yet there was a château, surmounted with a flag and enveloped in trees, with a sheet of water in front. After travelling through this desolate tract, where all was silence and dreariness, without any thing to enliven the landscape, we at length came in sight of Lake Vidonusk, which winds in a serpentine form among the woods that extend to its very edge, and are highly beautiful. The long tract of sand still continued, and in consequence of the rain that had fallen it turned now to a red colour. Opposite the post-house of Vallmar is a maga |