under Justinian; the Origenists, Nonnus, 27. Synod in A. D. 536 at
Jerusalem, 28. The Origenists put down, 28, 29. Churches erected by
Justinian, 29, 30. Hospitia for pilgrims, 30. Antoninus Martyr, 31. Com-
merce with the East, 31. Trade in relics, 31, 32. Pieces of the true
cross; its power of reproduction, 33.
Cent. VII. Invasion of the Persians in A. D. 614 and capture of Jeru-
salem, 33, 34. Modestus rebuilds the churches, etc. 34, 35. The church
of the Holy Sepulchre, 35. Triumph of Heraclius, 35, 36. Conquest of
the Muhammedans in A. D. 637, and capture of the Holy City, 36. Sub-
sequent history not written, 37. Pilgrims resume their visits, 38. Ar-
culfus, 38.-Cent. VIII. Pilgrims increase in spite of the change of dynas-
ty and consequent oppressions, 38. St. Willibald, 39. Civil war; con-
vent of Mâr Saba plundered, and Eleutheropolis destroyed, 39. Hârûn
er-Rashid and Charlemagne, their friendship, 40, 41.-Cent. IX. Dissen-
sions and oppressions, 41, 42. The monk Bernard, 42. State of the edi-
fices around the Holy Sepulchre, 42. Decay of the Abassides, 42.-Cent. X.
The Fatimites of Egypt, 42, 43. New oppressions of the Holy City, 43,
44. Merchants of Amalfi found a church and hospital, 44, 45.
Cent. XI. The Khalif el-Hâkim, 45. His persecution of the Chris-
tians, 45, 46. Persecution of the Jews in Europe, 46, 47. Hâkim makes
concessions to the Christians, 47. Vast increase of pilgrims of all
classes, 48. Robert of Normandy a pilgrim, 49, 50. Way through Hun-
gary, 50. Lietbert of Cambray, 40. Pilgrimage of the three German
bishops, 51-53. Successes of the Turkman Togrul Beg, 53, 54. King-
dom of the Seljucides, 54. Invasion of Syria and Egypt, 54. Jerusalem
made over to Ortok, 55. Indignation of the West, 55, 56. Excesses of
the Turkmans in the Holy City, 56, 57. Pilgrimages nevertheless con-
tinue, 57. Poverty and distress, 57, 58.
Peter the Hermit visits Jerusalem, 58. He returns and preaches a
crusade, 58, 59. First army of crusaders destroyed, 59. Second army
reaches and seizes Antioch, 59. Great battle and victory, 59. They break
up for Jerusalem, 59. New revolution in Syria, 59. Jerusalem taken by
the Egyptians, 60. Captured by the crusaders, June 7, 1099; churches
and convents erected, 61. Few remains now of the Christian dominion,
61. Reconquest by Saladin, 62. Importance of Jerusalem diminished, 62.
Few vicissitudes; building of the walls, 63. Burning of the church of the
Holy Sepulchre in 1808, 63. Becomes subject in 1832 to Muhammed
'Aly of Egypt, 63.
II. CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, 64-80. Difficulty as to the
identity of the Sepulchre; place of crucifixion, 64, 65. Questioned by
Korte and Clarke; supported'by Chateaubriand, etc. 65, 66.-Topograph-
ical argument; the nature of the ground shows that the ancient second
wall must have enclosed the present site, 67-70.-Historical argument;
Chateaubriand's statement, 70, 71. Examination of the same, 71-76.
No tradition of the spot probably existed; or if there did, it could not be
conclusive, 76. Similar tradition as to the place of the Ascension, 77;
and of the Nativity, 78. Result, 80.
III. STATISTICS, 80-96. Fallen state of Jerusalem, 81. Egyptian do-
minion, provinces, etc. 81, 82. Garrison, 82, 83. Population, usually
overrated, 83-86. The Jews, 86-88. Latin Christians, 88. Latin con-
vents, 88, 89. Native Greek Christians are all Arabs, 89. Greek con-
vents; peopled by foreign Greeks, 89, 90. Greek bishops, 90. Armeni-
ans, 91. Copts, 91. Chapels in the church of the Holy Sepulchre, 91.
Quarrels between the Greeks and Latins, 92, 93. The King of France
protector of the Catholics, 93.-Taxes in Jerusalem; Kharaj and
Firdeh defined, 93. Depreciation of currency, 94. Bazars and gardens,
94, 95. Excessive dearness of living, 95. Manufactures and trade in
Jerusalem, 95, 96.
IV. CLIMATE, 96. Wet and dry seasons, 96. Autumnal and winter
rains, 97. Snow and ice, 97. No particular periods of early and latter
rain, 97, 98. Badness of roads in winter, 98. Spring showers, 98.
Summer without rain and cloudless, 98, 99. Temperature, 99. The
harvest at different times in different tracts, 99, 100. Land becomes
parched, 100.
V. BETHANY, 100. Excursion thither and description, 101. Pre-
tended tomb of Lazarus, 101. Historical Notices, 102, 103. No trace of
Bethphage, 103.
EXCURSION FROM JERUSALEM TO BETHEL, ETC.
Pages 104-151.
General plan of travel, 104. Uncertain Topography, 104, 105. Con-
fusion of travellers, 105, 106. Arabic Lists of names, etc. 106.-May 4th.
Preparations and companions, 107. Setting off, 108. View of city from
northern part of Mount of Olives, 108. 'Anâta, Anathoth, 109. Exten-
sive views, 110. General character of the region, 110, 111. Guide, 111.
Hizmeh, 111. Wide views to Jordan, etc. 112, 113. Jeba', Gibeah 'of
Saul, 113-115. Mukhmâs, Michmash, 116, 117. Deir Dîwân, 118, 119.
Way to Taiyibeh, 119, 120. Taiyibeh, 121-124. Hospitality, the Medâfeh
or inn, 122. Restless night, 123. Population and taxes, 124. Perhaps
Ophra? 124.
May 5th. Way to Beitîn, 125. El-'Alya, 125. Beitin, Bethel, 125–
130. Ruins of churches at some distance, 126. Ruins and spacious res-
ervoir, 126, 127. Breakfast; milk and fine butter, 127. Historical No-
tices, 127-130. El-Bîreh, Beeroth, 130-133. Râm-Allah, a Christian
village, 133, 134. Arab schoolmaster, 134,135. A quarrel, 135. El-Jib,
Gibeon, 135-139. Position and remains, 135, 136. Historical Notices,
137-139. Neby Samwil, 139–145. Pretended tomb of Samuel, 139, 140.
Prospect, 140. Not the Ramah of Samuel, 141, 142. Hist. of the tradi-
tion, 142, 143. Probably Mizpeh, 143, 144. Wady Beit Hanina, 145.
Return to Jerusalem, 145, 146.—Notice of Kulonieh, 146. Horses for hire,
146, 147. Saddles, etc., 147.
Short stay in Jerusalem, 152. Insecurity of these districts, 152, 153.
Procure guides from the alleged robbers, 153, 154.-May 8th. Difficulty
with the Mukârîyeh, 155. Message to the governor, 155, 156.
ure, 156. Rachel's Tomb, 157. Pretended well of David,
Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools, 158. Bethlehem, 158-163. Meet an
armed party of Bedawîn, 158, 159. Hist. Notices, 159, 160. Character
of present inhabitants, 161. Disarming of the people, 162. Illustration
of "spreading garments in the way," 162. Reflections, 163. Wells over
the aqueduct, 163. Way to the Pools, 164. Measurements, 165. Sup-
ply of water, 165-168. Way to the Frank mountain; Urtâs, Etam?
168. Sheep of Palestine, 169. Appearance of the Frank Mountain,
170. Ruins of an ancient fortress at the top, 170, 171. Prospect, 171.
Name and legend, 171, 172. Probably ancient Herodium, 173. Perhaps
Beth-haccerem, 174. Wady Khŭreitún and cavern, 174, 175. Encamp-
ment of the Ta'amirah, 176. Character of the tribe, 176, 177. Sheikh
Muhammed the Khatib, our guide, 178. Visit from the Sheikh of the
Jehâlîn, 179, 180.
May 9th. Bedawîn camp and flocks, 180. Baking and churning, 180.
Grinding with the hand-mill, 180, 181. Tekûa, Tekoa, its ruins, etc. 182-184.
Our further course, 184, 185. Bir ez-Za'ferâneh, 185. Great Wady el-
Khulil, 186. General character of the region, 187. Beni Na'îm, mosk
and village, 187-190. Extensive view, 188.
rucha of Jerome, 189. Further course, 190.
of Kurmul, 191, 192. “Plucking the ears of
mul, Carmel, 192. Proceed to Ma'în, Maon, 193. Peasants from Yŭtta,
timid, 193.-May 10th. View from Ma'în, including nine ancient places,
193-196. Impression of the peasants that the Franks will come and take
possession, 196.-Return to Carmel; its remains, 196, 197. Castle, 198.
Hist. Notices, 199. Scene of David's adventure with Nabal, 200.
larity of personal manners at the present day, 201.
Proceed eastwards towards the Dead Sea, 201. Camp of the Ka'âbi-
neh, 201. Descent great; country becomes desert, 202. Beden, “wil-
derness of En-gedi," 203. Continual disappointment, 204. First view of
Dead Sea in its deep chasm, 204, 205. General character, peninsula and
shoals, 205. Hajr Usdum, 206. Mountains and general impression, 206,
207. Descent of the pass, 208. Optical illusion of an island, 208, 209.
Fountain of 'Ain Jidy, 209. Alarm, 209, 210. Trees, plants, and thicket
below the fountain, 210, 211. Descent to the shore; rich plain with gar-
dens of cucumbers, 211, 212. Water of the sea, its appearance and buoy-
ancy, 212, 213. Driftwood, 213. Measurements, 213. Climate, 214.
Ancient En-gedi; Historical Notices, 214-216.
THE DEAD SEA, 216-238. Length and breadth, 217.-Form and
character of the shores, 218. Phenomena, 219, 220. Mineral produc-
tions, 221. Depression of the level of the sea, 222.-Character of the
waters, 223. Analyses, 223--225. Level of the water varies, 225. De-
posites of salt, 226. Sea contains neither animal nor vegetable life, 226-
228.-Asphaltum, 228-130.-The peninsula, 230-234.-The Ford, 234,
235.-Apples of Sodom, probably the 'Ösher, 235-238.
May 11th. Sunrise, songs of birds, 238, 239. Ascent of the pass, stern
magnificence of the prospect, 239. Sebbeh, the ancient Masada, 239–242.
Journey along the western side of the Dead Sea, 242-253. The Rashâi-
deh, 243. Wady Derejeh, 244. Encamp on the cliff above 'Ain Terȧ-
beh, 245. Prospect of the sea, 245, 246. Circuitous route, 246. Great
Arab road along the sea, 247, 248. Evening view, 248.-May 12th. Des-
ert region, 248, 249. Wady er-Râhib, the continuation of the Kidron,
249. Râs el-Feshkhah and view, 250. Further N. the sea contracts, 250.
Descent to the shore, rugged way, 251. Horse falls from a ledge, 251.
Stink-stone, 251. 'Ain el-Feshkhah, 252. Proceed along the shore; ripę
berries of the Ghurkŭd; immense lizard, 252, 253. Appearance of the
tract, nitrous crust, 253, 254. Turn off towards the Jordan, 254. Cross-
ing-place el-Helu; appearance of the river, 254, 255. Its banks and
verdure, 254, 255. Rapid current, depth, etc. 256. Bathe in its stream,
256. Different points in view, 256, 257.
THE JORDAN AND ITS VALLEY, 257-267.
Ghôr, 258. Hist. and topogr. notices, 258--261.
the Jordan, 261. Scriptural account, 262. Probably never overflows,
and why, 262-264. Influence of the lakes, 264. The Ghôr, where not
watered, generally a desert, 265. Passage of the Israelites, 266, 267.
Way to Jericho, 267-273. 'Ain Hajla, Beth-Hoglah, 268. Kusr Hajla,
a ruined convent, 269-271. Site of another convent, 271, 272. Reach
Jericho, 273.-May 13th. Visit to the Aga at the castle, 273-276. Har-
vest and threshing-floors; the plain tilled by the people of Taiyibeh, 276.
Process of threshing, 276-278. Sheikh of the 'Adwân; places E. of
Jordan, 278, 279. Village of Riha, 279, 280. Indolence and dissolute-
ness of the inhabitants, 280. Rivulet and trees near our tent, 281. Large
block of Sienite, 281. Climate, 282. Walk to the fountain 'Ain es-Sul-
tân, 273-285. Paved Roman road, 283. Traces of ancient foundations,
285. View from the mound, 286. Sheikh Mustafa and Derwishes, 286.
No trace of ancient Gilgal, 287-May 14th. View from the castle, 287,
288. Breadth of the valley, 289. Ancient trees and products no longer
found, 290. The Zükkům, probably myrobalanum, 291. Other trees and
plants, 292, 293. Former culture of the sugar-cane, 293, 294. Origin of
the present village, 295. Site of ancient Jericho near the mountain, 296-
298. Hist. Notices, 298-302.
Set off from the fountain, 302. Quarantana, 302, 303. Country at its
foot, 303. Last view of the fertile plain of Jericho, 304. Wadys and Ru.
ins in the Ghôr, 304, 305. Phasaëlis, now Fusâil, 305. No distinct Mount
Nebo visible in the eastern mountains, 305, 306. Jebel Jil'âd and Jebel
'Attârûs, 306. Roads to Bethel, 307. Tents and hospitality of Sheikh
Mustafa, 307, 308. Arabs descending to the Ghôr, 308. Fountains of
Dûk, 308, 309. Ascent of mountain, 309, 310. Desert tract, 310. Cem-
etery, 311. Cisterns by the way-side, 311. Ruins S. of Deir Dîwân,
probable site of Ai, 312, 313. Tell W. of Deir Diwân, 312, 313. Hist.
notices of Ai, 313. Bethel, 314.-May 15th. Way to Jerusalem; el-Bîreh,
'Atâra, 314. Er-Râm, Ramah, 315-317. Ruined Khân, 317. Tuleil el-
Fül, 317. Scopus and Jerusalem, 318. Parting with the Khatib, 319.
Dissatisfied with the Mukârîyeh, 319.
FROM JERUSALEM TO GAZA AND HEBRON.
Pages 320-462.
Shutting up of Jerusalem, 320. We stop but a single day, 320, 321.
Preparations, guide, etc. 321.-May 17th. Departure; go round by Beit
Jala, 322. Statistics of the village, 322-324. Way to village of St.
George, 324, 325. View from high point beyond Wady Bittir, and no-
tices of the country, 325–327.
Kustul, probably Lat. 'Castellum,' 328.-Sôba, its situation, 328. Not
Modin, 328-330. Possibly for Zuph, Zophim, the ancient Ramathaim-
Zophim of Samuel, 330, 331. Objection from the position, 331. Objec-
tion as being on Mount Ephraim, 332-334.—Boundary between Benja-
min and Judah, 334. It passes Kirjath Jearim, probably the present Kur-
yet el-'Enab, 334-336. Its further course, 336, 337.
Way to Beit 'Atâb, 337, 338. Beit 'Atâb and wide view, 338-340.
Way to Beit Nettîf; ancient road, 340, 341. Beit Nettif and country
around, 341, 342. Climate, 342. Wide view of many ancient places,
342-344. Inhabitants; the parties Keis and Yemen, 344, 345. Hospi-
tality of the people, 345. General hospitality, the Medâfeh or Menzil,
346, 347.-May 18th. Fog in the vallies, 347. Proposed search after the
site of Eleutheropolis; reported ruins at Beit Jibrin, etc. 348. Wady es-
Sumt, 348, 349. Socoh, 349. Place of David's combat with Goliath,
349, 350. Well with flocks; drawing water "with the foot," 351. Re-
markable excavations, near Deir Dubbân, 352–354. Way to Beit Jibrin, 354, 355.
Beit Jibrin, ruins of a strong Roman fortress, 355, 356. Ruined church,
Santa Hanneh, 357, 358. People wish the Franks to come, 358. For-
mer Sheikhs of the district, 358, 359. Beit Jibrin, if not Eleutheropolis,
is certainly the ancient Betogabra, 359, 360. Hist. notices, 360-362.
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