desert, that it is wonderful our poor horses kept upon their legs. We met but one person during the whole twelve miles, and the country is treeless and dreary in the extreme.

I must do justice to the Sowars, or mounted police, of whose appearance I think I spoke rather disparagingly when they first met me near Hoobly, and when they certainly looked both unmilitary and miserable, being muffled up from head to foot against the east wind in a white shapeless thing not unlike a table-cloth; but now I see them in their own costume of green riding-coats, turned with red, and white drawers and jack-boots, and small red turbans, and armed, in addition to a long slashing-looking sword, with either carabine or spear, I see that they are fine soldier-like fellows; and I find them obliging and useful. Generally speaking, they are very well mounted, and ride boldly, and with a good military seat.

I have been reading this evening two letters on the Church, which were published originally in the "Times," and which contain much wholesome though painful truth.

Chakonee, Tuesday morning, January 2nd,

1844. There is nothing remarkable, except indeed its air of dilapidation and decay, in the town near which we are now encamped. This appearance of distress is, however, often deceptive in India, as it arises from the slovenly habits of Asiatics, and is moreover not unfrequently assumed for the purpose of concealment; some of the most miserable looking places being often the centre of rich districts, and others containing much hidden wealth where a European would scarcely expect to find a rupee; and as there is here a government treasury, doubtless the revenue collected exceeds the expense of collection even in this barren land. I went this morning to the top of a round mud-tower in the hope of a view; but except mud cottages, and buffaloes, and pigs, and idle people staring at vacancy, I saw nothing. A small stream runs through the town, which must in the monsoon be a formidable river.

The little Sirdar who visited us at Konoor, having kindly sent me the original testimonial given to his father, or rather the chieftain, who adopted him as his son, by "Westley Saheb," I have taken a copy of it, because I hold all that

comes from the Duke, and especially in connexion with India, in the highest estimation. It is upwards of forty years since this document was signed by that most extraordinary man, who had even then made himself a name to adorn many a tale of British valour; and I believe that Westley Saheb" will long be spoken of by the natives as a kind European rustan.

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"Siddojee Row Nimbulker joined me with the body of Mahratta troops under his command in the month of March, 1803, when I was on my march to Poonah with the British troops, to restore the Peshwaw to the exercise of the powers of His Highness's government. This service having been effected by the arrival of His Highness at Poonah, Siddojee Row Nimbulker accompanied the British army in its march from Poonah in the month of June following, to oppose the confederacy then forming by the northern Mahratta chiefs against the British government and their allies, Row Pundit Purdon and the Nizam. He served during the war which ensued, in a manner satisfactory to His troops were engaged with the enemy

me.

repeatedly, and always conducted themselves well; and Siddojee Row Nimbulker distinguished himself and them in a late action against a formidable band of free-booters, who had assembled upon the frontiers of the Peshwaw's territories, and cut off the supplies of the city of Poonah.

"I have given him this paper in testimony of my approbation of his conduct and that of his troops; and I request that all British officers and others to whom this paper may at any time be shown, will consider Siddojee Row Nimbulker as the friend of the British government.

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(Signed) "ARTHUR WELLESLEY, M.G. Poonah, March 6th, 1804.”

Certainly we learn in India the meaning and full force of the expression, "insufferable day." The continual glare sadly wears the eyes, and very soon teaches us to sympathise so far with Macbeth" I 'gin to be weary of the sun." O for a day of clouds! There are plenty of them on the western coast during the monsoon; but I have never experienced them; and my eyes

P

ache with excessive light, as my head aches with excessive heat. What a strange dispensation of Providence, that we who shrink from the sun as from a pestilence, should be lords of India! How often have I envied the despised native, the free denizen of the sun-light; I have envied even the soaring kite which bathes itself in his beams.

But what a comfort is moon-light to the European traveller. She is now shining sweetly bright, and has enabled me to get over the eighteen miles' march to this place, easily and without at all distressing my horse, in three hours; whereas without her, we should have been five, or perhaps six. The road also was excellent, a delightful contrast to that of yesterday. Indeed, in many points, what a mere traveller says of this country one day, he is obliged to unsay the next. Yesterday all was stony and barren; and I wondered how the people will live or the government thrive; and to-day I have seen nothing but cotton, tobacco, and cholum, the whole way, so valueless is the opinion on such matters of him who just skims