the likewise the case on the North of Jerusalem. Whether this reputation of the country be well founded or not, I will not undertake to decide; but certainly the district has a right to it by ancient prescription; for it is very same region into which David with his band of six hundred adventurers withdrew from the pursuit of Saul, and dwelt long in the caves and lurking-places.2 The plain of the Jordan too, around Jericho, is considered as very unsafe; partly because of the thievish character of the inhabitants, and partly as being exposed to excursions from the lawless Arabs of the eastern mountains. Three weeks before this time, some of our friends had accompanied the annual caravan of pilgrims to the Jordan; and had there spoken with several merchants from Damascus, who were going to es-Salt and Kerak. The very next day, these merchants were shot dead and their goods plundered. As our intended journey became known, our ears were filled with stories of this kind; and we were urged to take with us a guard of soldiers from the governor of Jerusalem. For this we had no sort of inclination; partly because we must then have been in a measure under their control, and not they under ours; and partly because, with such a guard, we could only expect to excite the ill-will and perhaps the hostility of the Arabs we might fall in with; and thus frustrate in a degree the very object of our journey. Still, as it was not prudent to travel without some escort, we thought it more advisable to obtain the services of the supposed robbers themselves, or of persons on good terms with them, who might at the same time act both as guards and guides. Sheikh Mustafa, the head of a wandering tribe of half Derwishes who frequent the vicinity of Jericho, was spoken of; but was not then to be found at Jerusalem. Another person was then recommended, who had been a leader in the rebellion of 1834; a price was set upon his head, and he had been ever since an outlaw, but had never been taken. He was known to be often in Jerusalem, and was on good terms with the convent in Bethlehem. Indeed, a few days before, he had been guide and escort to a party of our friends, including several ladies, in an excursion from that convent to several places in the vicinity of Bethlehem. As he was of course on good terms with all the other outlaws and Arabs, and could thus protect us from any attack, we commissioned our Arab-Greek friend and agent Abu Selâmeh, to find him out and engage him. The latter applied to the Greek convent at Bethlehem, which readily undertook the matter; but they afterwards sent word, that as the country was now very unsafe, it would be prudent to take a larger escort, and not trust ourselves to the care of a single person. They accordingly sent to us the Sheikh of the Ta'âmirah, a tribe of Arabs living S. E. of Bethlehem towards the Dead Sea, and noted as being among the foremost on occasions of rebellion and robbery. He was a noblelooking man, and we at once made a bargain with him, that he should accompany us with three of his men. We were to pay him ten Piastres a day for himself, and five or six Piastres for each of his attendants. He fulfilled his contract honourably; and we had no reason to repent of our choice. The Christian Sabbath passed away in quiet enjoyment; and Monday was occupied in writing out our journals and various other preparations. We hoped for a time that Mr. Whiting would have accompanied us; but it was not convenient for him; so that the party was limited to our own original number of three, with our two servants. We engaged six horses, inclu ding one for the tent and luggage; with the condition that they should be accompanied by three men, in order to render our party as large as possible. At evening our Sheikh came and slept in the house; having appointed his men to join us at Bethlehem. Tuesday, May 8th. The horses were brought between 6 and 7 o'clock; but with only two men and without bridles. We demurred to this state of things; and a difficulty arising, they went off again, leaving their earnest-money in our hands. While we were endeavouring to procure other horses, Abu Selâmeh came in, and immediately set off after the men to bring them back; as the owner of the horses seemed to be his particular friend. In this he succeeded, as he said; the men and the horses came back, and a brother of the owner with them. But we found that our Arab friend had gone a little beyond his instructions in the terms of conciliation; we were indeed to have the bridles, but the owner was to send only the two men; the third was to be furnished by our Sheikh from his tribe, and we were to pay for him. We thought it best on the whole to submit to this imposition, rather than to lose more time; and accordingly got all things in readiness to mount. We took our tent as before; but carried all our bedding and blankets upon our own saddles. Our provisions and utensils were distributed in small sacks; which were then deposited in capacious saddle-bags, slung across the horses of our ser vants. But another delay now arose; the brother of the owner and the muleteers all affirming that in order to visit Jericho, where there is a small garrison, it was necessary to have a Tezkirah from the governor. We doubted the fact, and afterwards found that we were right; yet in order to be on the safe side, we sent Komeh with our Firmân to the governor, accompanied by the owner's brother, in order to obtain the desired paper. This latter was a man of enterprise and daring; some ten years before, he had combined with a few others and suddenly got possession of the citadel, turning out the garrison and afterwards closing the gates of the city for a time against the Turkish government. As our messenger he was now courteously received by the governor; and it so happened that the Aga in command at Jericho was present. The governor immediately gave him verbal orders to receive us at Jericho, and attend to all our wants; and also to send with us an escort of soldiers to the Jordan. This latter kindness we afterwards took care to avoid. All these matters being at length arranged, we left the Yâfa Gate at ten minutes before 10 o'clock, on our way to Bethlehem, across the valley of Hinnom and along. the plain of Rephaim, by the same route by which we had first approached Jerusalem.1 At 10 o'clock we were opposite to Wady el-Werd, leading out between high hills from the S. W. corner of the plain. It here runs W. by S. and is soon joined by the Wady Ahmed. In this valley, in sight of our road, lies the village of Beit Sufafa; and further off in the same direction, esh-Sherâfât, on the southern hill. Both of these now bore West. On the northern hill, overagainst the latter place, we could see the village el-Mâlihah, bearing N. 70° W. Further down the valley, out of sight, lies 'Ain Yâlo, a fountain, from which 1) See above, Vol. I. p. 323, 324. 2) See Vol. I. p. 482. We were not able to ascertain, whether this is the fountain regarded by the monks as St Philip's, where they suppose him to have baptized the eunuch; but this is not improbable. This latter is situated in Wady el-Werd, east of the village of el-Welejeh, (the St. Philip's of the monks,) on one of the ways leading from Beth lehem to the convent of St. John ('Ain Karim,) through Wady Ahmed. Maundrell makes it less than an hour from Beit Jâla; Pococke rather more; and Doubdan describes it as being at the point where the Gaza road crosses the valley. Maundrell, Apr. 2. Pococke II. pp. 45, 46. Doubdan, p. 178. water is often brought to Jerusalem. At 10h 45' Sherâfât bore N. 80° W. and Mâlihah N. 55° W! When we reached the gate leading to the Greek convent Mâr Elyâs, ten minutes later, these villages were already shut out from view by intervening hills. We had lingered on the way, so that we were now as long in passing over this interval to the convent with horses, as we formerly had been with camels. It is usually reckoned one hour. The convent lies in the fields at some distance from the road, on the verge of the ridge, having a wide prospect across the deep vallies on the South.2 From this point two paths lead to Bethlehem; one direct, descending and crossing the deep valley on the South; the other passing more to the right around the head of the valley, and so by Rachel's Tomb. We took the latter, now as before; and at 11h 10′ Mâr Elyâs behind us bore N. 44° E. and Beit Jâla S. 60° W. At 11h 20' there was a little ruin on the right, called el-Khamîs. We came to Rachel's Tomb in five minutes more, which has already been described. The Muslims keep the tomb in order; and those of Bethlehem were formerly accustomed to bury around it. The whole tract before us was full of olive-groves, especially in Wady Ahmed and on the slopes of Beit Jâla, and also in the vallies on the East of the low swell or water-shed; while towards Bethlehem were likewise many orchards of fig-trees. Passing on towards Bethlehem, we met a mule laden with water, said to be from Bethlehem for the 25° E. Neby Samwîl N.W. Bethlehem S. 15° W. Convent of Bethlehem S. 10° W. Beit Sâhûr S. 50° E. Frank Mountain S. 16° E. 1) Prokesch passed from Beit Sufafa to Mâlihah in half an hour; and thence to the village of St. John ('Ain Karim) in three quarters of an hour. Reise, pp. 118, 119. 2) From the well at the gate leading to the convent, we took the following bearings: Jerusalem N. 3) See above, Vol I. p. 322.From Rachel's Tomb Bethlehem bears S. 5° E. distant 25 minutes; and Beit Jâla S. 85° W. distant about 20 minutes. |