Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

contain, with many curious grottoes, two natural ice-houses, and several sulphureous and chalybeate springs, of which the three highest are the Chasserat, Chasseron, and Creux-du-vent, each between four and five thousand feet above the sea.

In the middle ages, the greater part of this canton was covered with impenetrable forests, and abounded in bears, wild boar, deer, and wolves. But, with the exception of the latter,-now also rare,-they have all disappeared; while the fox, protected by the nature of the rocks, and his own superior instinct, is the only freebooter left. The lakes of Neuchâtel and Bienne-the latter belonging to Bern-are of classical celebrity, and too familiar to every reader to require a particular description, but to which we shall advert as we proceed. The Reuse and the Seyon-the first remarkable for its limpid current, and the latter for its impetuosity-are the principal rivers of the canton.

Ruz, the first of the six principal valleys, is four leagues in length, and contains twenty-three villages. Here, driven from their home, during the wars of their counts with the dukes of Savoy, many Genevese found an asylum, and the sources of their future prosperity. The small town of Vallengin— Vallis angusta-in this valley, is conspicuous for the industry of its population, and the richness of its diminutive territory. The valley of the Sagne is of the same extent as that of Ruz, and, in addition to its well cultivated and productive soil, contains a mineral source. In the valley of Locle,† two leagues in extent, nature and art are found in less pleasing cooperation. Here the winter lasts seven months-the soil produces little, save pasture-and most of the necessaries of life are imported. The manufacture of clocks and watches is the chief employment. The Bied, a torrent whose waters are here lost in the rocks, has hollowed out vast caverns, which two enterprising natives, brothers, of the name of Robert, have turned to account, by the bold and ingenious construction of three subterraneous mills, placed vertically, one above the other.

In order to purify the air and improve the climate of Locle-three thousand feet above the level of the sea-a mountain has been successfully perforated, so as to admit of a free escape for the stagnant waters, and thereby contributed essentially to the health and appearance of the village. The valley of

The Silurus glanus, one of the most remarkable fish in the country, is occasionally taken in these waters, weighing 100lbs.

This valley was still a savage "howling wilderness" so late as the fourteenth century, and tenanted only by bears and wolves. The first colonist was John Droz, of Lorcelles, who, with his four children and a small number of industrious followers, established himself in its inhospitable solitudes, in 1303. It is now one of the richest and most populous valleys in Switzerland, or perhaps in Europe. Such one day may be the wildest of the back settlements in America and Van Dieman's Land.

THE FAERY-MOUNT.-VAL-TRAVERS.

69

Chaux-de-Fond, of similar extent with the preceding, is little favoured by nature, but thickly peopled with industrious mechanics and their families, of whom the celebrated M. Droz and his son have given an illustrious example. The next valley, that of Brenets, is traversed by the Doubs, which, till modern enterprise had hewn a passage for its escape, formed a lake. Near the village is the cavern of Tofiere, remarkable for its echo, and the tables and seats which Nature, in sport, seems to have furnished for her visitors. About a league from this, and in a truly savage gorge, is the Saut-du-Doubs, where the river precipitates itself from a height of eighty feet, and in its fall gives play to twelve mills, and a forge for making anvils.

The valley of Brevine is the highest in the canton, two leagues in length, and contains the Etalieres, a lake which escapes in the same manner as that of Joux, and where the waters, after flowing for several leagues under ground, form the source of the Reuse, at St. Sulpice. Subterraneous mills have been also erected in those clefts of the rocks, which here serve as outlets to the waters of the lake. Near this village is the vegetable coal mine, alluded to in our account of the Rossberg, and supposed to be the product of the forests swallowed up in the great earthquake of 1356, which overthrew the city of Basle. In the valley of Verrieres is the commune named Côte aux Fées, or the Faëry Mount, in which are several grottos, the principal of which is distinguished as the Temple of the Faëries-the only instance in Switzerland, perhaps, where the name of that mysterious dynasty is recognised. We have already noticed the remarkable anomaly that Switzerland, the most romantic country in Europe, presents few or none of the thousand legends and superstitions so carefully preserved and circulated among the English, and more particularly the Scotch and Irish, peasantry. The fairy gossip, and fairy-land mythology, which are first learned in the nurseries of the north, and there group the peasantry around the winter hearth, are yet strangers to the Swiss. The only phantoms which seem to cross his imagination are the spirits of heroic ancestors, with their bucklers and spears, and cross-bows, and their abhorrence of bondage. But to return to our subject.-The entrance to this "temple," which is beyond dispute the finest grotto in Switzerland, is very narrow; and in the interior are three galleries, of which that in the centre terminates in a vista over the valley of St. Croix, in the district of Yverdun. About a league from Verrieres, and near the river Doubs, in the French territory, is the picturesque fortress of Joux.

The Val de Travers, watered by the limpid Reuse, is about three leagues in length, and contains the beautiful villages of St. Sulpice, Fleurier, Motiers, Travers, and Couvet, the latter the birth-place of the ingenious and celebrated

[blocks in formation]

Berthoud, inventor of the chronometer for determining the longitude at sea. He died here in 1806. The village of Motiers is immortalized as the temporary residence of Rousseau. The chamber where he composed his "Lettres de la Montagne," is still preserved in the same state in which it was left, when the inhabitants drove him from his humble retreat, and compelled him to take refuge in the solitary isle of Bienne-a circumstance to which we shall advert as we proceed. Near this, in a deep and extensive cavern, is another of those natural ice-houses above noticed, and to which we descend by means of a ladder. The floor is covered with a thick layer of ice, above which rise five or six icy columns; the whole cavern is remarkable, and, that of St. George above Rolle excepted, the only instance of this description in the Jura.

The town of Neuchâtel is well built, and is every year receiving fresh architectural embellishments from the opulent families and individuals who have here fixed their residence. It contains several remarkable buildings, and among others the Château, the ancient residence of the princes of Neuchâtelthe Cathedral, built in the twelfth century, (in front of which is the tombstone of FAREL,) the Town-house, and Public Hospital.

St. Blaise is a large and handsome village, about a league from the capital, with high white walls; from this point the lake, now navigated by the Union steam-vessel, is seen in all its extent and beauty. The white wine of St. Blaise is held in high estimation by connoisseurs.*

The king of Prussia, who is sovereign of the country, is bound to maintain it in all its ancient laws, customs, privileges, independence, and religious toleration. The Protestant churches are under the direction of the Company of Pastors, and the Consistory; those of the Catholics, under the titular bishop of Lausanne. Trade is liberally protected; no tax can be levied or modified without an express law; and natives only, the governor excepted, are eligible to offices of public trust. The Audiences Générales, composed of the oldest members of the council of state, chiefs of jurisdictions, and the deputies of districts, are, with the king, the supreme authority of the canton; and without whose consent no law can be made, modified, or annulled. The king is represented by a governor and state council, usually of twenty-one members. In the canton

The mean produce of the vines of Neuchâtel, the management of which affords employment to so many hands, is estimated at three millions of pots-each of two pints; out of which one million eight hundred thousand are sold to the neighbouring cantons, or otherwise exported; and, taken at an average of three batz the pot, leave a product of five hundred and forty thousand Swiss livres (33,750.) The wines in highest estimation are those produced from the red grape of Contaillod, Neuchâtel, and Faverge, which may vie with, and by many are preferred to, those of Burgundy. A vineyard of this quality brings three or four hundred louis the pose, a measure of 32.768 feet square.

POLITICAL STATE.-EDUCATION.

71

are twenty-one courts of justice, and two tribunals of appeal; and among its inhabitants are several privileged classes, who enjoy various rights and immunities. The existing laws bear great resemblance to those of the ancient comté of Burgundy-antiquated customs which have never been reduced into any regular code. The militia is divided into six departments, with a major or lieutenant-colonel, named by the king, at their head, and furnishes a battalion of tirailleurs to the royal guard. The king's revenue arises from the duty upon various articles of trade, rents of domains, posts, tolls, and tithes, and amounts to about one hundred and fifty thousand livres, more than half of which is necessarily employed in the country. The exportation of rural produce is limited to cheese, a small number of cattle, and wine; but the cotton manufactures are lucrative and numerous. In 1780, the annual export of watches alone amounted to forty thousand, and is now little short of one hundred and forty thousand, the value of each varying from seven francs to eight hundred. The daily pay of a good workman is ten to twelve livres, and the average of all, children included, about twelve batz (1s. 6d.) The manufacture of mathematical and other instruments, is also a special branch of industry. The population of the canton is stated by the latest returns at about fifty-three thousand; among whom the habit and fruits of industry are generally conspicuous.

Among the celebrated individuals to whom this canton has given birth, we may mention Osterwald, Bourguet, Boyve, Hory, and Montmollin-men who have reflected lustre on their age and country. The Reformation was established in this canton by a very summary method, and in opposition to the authority of the magistrates. A party of the inhabitants having gone to support the cause of Geneva in 1530 against the duke of Savoy, they embraced the reformed doctrine, and on their return home took forcible possession of the churches. Their system of proselytism met with so much success, that on the 10th of November, the same year, the new religion was adopted by a majority of eighteen votes-an event which was greatly accelerated by the powerful eloquence of Farel, who performed so conspicuous a part in forwarding that great moral revolution. Education, and the facilities for its acquirement, are proverbially good in this canton, and within reach of the poorest; but the students of theology repair to Lausanne or Geneva-those of medicine to the German universities.—Of Yverdun and Pestalozzi we shall speak in our notice of the canton de Vaud; and of other particulars, in the Appendix.

For these and other facts connected with the present state of industry and commerce in Neuchâtel, the reader may consult Professor Picot's Statistique de la Suisse, last edition, p. 568.

CANTON OF BERN.

TOUR OF THE OBERLAND.

"BERNE... C'est la couronne des villes libres: chacun la loue à juste titre: quiconque en a entendu parler, sait qu'elle est un séjour des héros, et un miroir où brille une image sans tache: jeunes et vieux font retentir ses éloges par toute l'Allemagne."-TSCHUDI.

IN retracing our steps to the western extremity of the Lake of Bienne, many beautiful and interesting views present themselves-particularly those of Jolimont, the Château Baillival, and the ancient Abbey of Erlach, near the embouchure of the Thiele. But here, with the island of St. Pierre immediately in front, our eyes insensibly lose sight of other objects; and the imagination excited at the name, we embark on the blue waters of the lake, and are speedily landed on the sanctuary of Rousseau.

The house where he resided has long served as an inn; and here his admirers will be gratified by finding every thing-particularly his room—in nearly the same state as the philosopher left it. It is surrounded on three sides by a piazza, level with the ground-one forms the farm offices, the second the dwelling-house, and the third serves for the accommodation of strangers. A huge walnut-tree throws its shade over the whole court. In the interior, the walls of the apartment occupied by the "priest of nature" are so covered with names, dates, and sentiments, that it was with great difficulty we found one little spot to receive the record of our pilgrimage. The livre d'étrangers was no less charged with precious memorials—

"Of him who chose the mountains for a shrine,

And solitude for joy."

The walks through the wood and orchard with which the island is covered are delightful and refreshing; and, fanned by the cool breath of the lake, afford a delicious retreat during the summer solstice. From the eminence in the centre, occupied by an elegantly designed temple, the view is strikingly picturesque. The ground, covered with rich velvet turf, such as bordered the enchanted isle of Calypso, slopes gently towards the shore, and contrasts its own bright green with the deep blue of the water in which it is imbedded. It was near sunset, and we stood as if fixed to the spot which, whatever it may

« AnteriorContinuar »