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CONDUCTED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBER S.
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 5, 1857.
to the strong,' says the proverb. Solomon and other SUCCESSFUL PEOPLE.
wise old men are gentle-hearted. This saying was NOTHING succeeds like success,' says the universal meant as a kindly encouragement to the slow and voice of Great Britain, speaking from all mouthpieces weak, who are really anxious to make the best of —especially loud from the great national speaking their deficiency. The 'always' is their qualifying ray trumpet, the T'imes newspaper. In all departments of of hope. Let it shine ever before them, and lead them human work and human play, Englishmen honour on to the utmost; but let no friend teach them to those who are visibly, conspicuously successful. over-value its promise. It is false kindness which Success is a sort of certificate of merit that every one would lead the tortoise to disparage the hare's speed, can read and understand. It is not written in Latin, or make the little Jacks of everyday life believe that intelligible only to the few; but it carries the trans-giants will be easily overcome by them. God made lation of doctissimus' and 'optimus' deep into the the laws of nature like those of the Medes and minds of the crowd. They honour the man who has Persians. Fire burns, water drowns a body heavier done the thing he willed to do; quite as often, too, than itself, you do not gather grapes of thorns, they honour the man who has done a thing he never wisdom from fools, nor tender acts from tigers. Let willed anything about, but which he hit upon by those who contend in the battle and the race rest luck,' as men say. To succeed in the world is a sort assured that the strongest and the swiftest must win, of religious duty with some folk-the only one they if their other qualifications be on a par with those of are very assiduous in performing. These people their opponents. It is only when they are unusually generally do succeed, because to will a thing strongly, defective in the will or power to turn their superiority to turn our hearts and brains constantly towards an to account they can fail. Hence the astonishment object, is going more than half-way towards the attain of the world when its Samsons and Atalantas are ment of it. These people are praiseworthy-worthy defeated ; and the good-natured proverbs that cheer of the praise they get. To succeed in ever so small and encourage inferior people. The race is not to an undertaking in life, argues the exercise of certain the swift, nor the battle to the strong. Not always! highly respectable moral and intellectual qualities- So, courage, young Mediocrity! Do your best-it is courage, perscrerance, patience, self-denial, and intel- sure to be worth something to the world, surer still ligent observation and reflection. True, successful to be worth immortality to your own soul. If you people are not always very great or very wise ; but it fail when you are doing your best towards God, it will does not become the unsuccessful to disparage their count for you more than ten successes in the eyes of achievements, as they do frequently, while they are the world. sick with envy at the result of these achievements. All honour to the successful man who succeeds, as
The most common objects of so-called success in most men do, by fair means! A successful rogue is the world are, to make a fortune, to found a family, rarely successful through a lifetime. The brilliant or to make one's self fanious. It is these objects instances of roguery in the last few years go far to steadily pursued for many generations by a large prove that. We are willing to admire the manly proportion of the British people, that has built up and energy, courage, and industry which does something consolidated our material prosperity, and has helped in the world. It is a beautiful thing to see a human largely in our intellectual and spiritual greatness. being succeed in any right work-to see the requisite
What a Yankee would call the eloquential capa. power put forth in the fittest way, and directed by bilities of success in life are great. It would bear a adequate intelligence. Human skill in exercise has an deal of talking about; but we should consider much irresistible charm for men; it is beautiful as well as of what might, could, or would be said in its glorifi- useful; and we all love it; but we should love it no cation as mere talking for talking's sake-at all events, more than in reason. in this country, where no one lives upon the fatalism The successful men of the world get credit for doing of the Turk, but where we believe that a man, in the the work of the world. That portion of it that lies on common phrase, is the architect of his own fortunes.and above the surface they do, in their day and generPractically, all successful men in this country putation; but those who have this visible, tangible someforth the strength, intellect, and will that are neces- thing to shew for their labour, generally owe much to sary to succeed, and leave the rest to a higher power. the unheard-of labours of their predecessors, who have They take care to keep their powder dry, and then been their navvies, and dug out rubbish, and laid the put their trust in Providence.
firm foundations of their edifices. To labour is the • The race is not always to the swift, or the battle lot of man, and no one gains anything by shirking. Glory is something superadded to the reward of of the poets over the mutability of this life; we can labour; but the true reward never fails the steady, listen to Shakspeare's melancholy cryhonest worker whose power is equal to his task. So When I consider everything that grows much work done buys such and such wages-health, Holds in perfection but a little moment, peace, and competence. The successful man does more That this huge state presenteth nought but shows, &c.than the ordinary labourer ; having more than ordinary and we can sympathise in it; but not so far as to means and faculty, he achieves a conspicuous work, forget that this rapid passing on from one stage to and is honoured of men. How is it that the world's another of existence is merely a series of developments, successful men are often-not to speak paradoxically of which what we call death is the closing one on earth -disappointed men ? Because happiness or content –probably the opening one in another life. Success has not essentially any connection with success in the in this one consists in bearing with intelligent resigworld. If happiness be our being's end and aim, the nation, and working with intelligent energy, all that
we are called upon to endure or to do. The two kinds successful men of the world do not hit that mark as
of successful people—those who succeed in the world, often as their admirers suppose. Perhaps because and those who succeed in life-meet each with their these admirers do not draw a distinction we wish to reward: happy are they who succeed in both. draw. Success in the world is a different thing from success
DROWNED, BUT NOT FOUND. in life, although in many instances individuals have attained both. These are they who noble ends by We are told that such are the numbers of London noble means pursue. Still, if the prizes and blanks in corpses now conveyed by the 'Funeral Trains,' that,
upon arrival at the necropolises, the coffins get separthe lottery of the world were identical with success orated, and the processions mixed, so that you are as failure in the objects of this earthly existence, it would likely to be following another party as your own dear be a sadder life than it is on this planet of ours, which departed to his or her long home; a misapplication of yet 'goes sobbing through space,' as the poet says. It is sentiment sufficiently mortifying when you become not so. Each man and woman among us—the feeblest, aware of it, but not involving any lifelong wretched the least endowed with good gifts—may live a life, uncertainty, such as is suggested by the heading of develop his powers to the utmost of his means, and this paper. Fancy the horror, even in the case of exercise them not all for self. He will then have suc- our dearest and nearest, of meeting him or her, on a ceeded in life, done the best with the earthly mantle of sudden, above ground, whom we had concluded, years his soul; and he will not wish to throw it up in disgust, ago, to have been under water! Leaving out of the or say to his Maker, 'Why hast thou formed me thus ?' question our being her or his male or female relict, To quote the expression of Balzac, in speaking of dis- and our having chanced to marry again in the interim, content in life and suicide: 'La vie est un vêtement; or having published his or her Remains, without the quand il est sale on le brosse; quand il est troué on le smallest regard to private feelings, and taking the raccommode ; mais on reste vêtu tant qu'on peut.' (Life is matter under as ordinary circumstances as such a a garment; when it is dusty, we brush it; when it is thing can be taken, so that the little rencontre may torn, we mend it; but we remain clothed as long as occur in the most mitigated manner-not by moonwe can.) This is not taking a high view of the matter; light or by twilight; not in Finsbury Square nor on it is merely making the best of a bad matter; but the Salisbury Plain, but—in Cheapside upon a Monday life is no such bad matter as the cynics declare. It is morning, yet how horrible is the bare idea of it! It quite possible for mere ordinary folks like you and me is doubtful, perhaps, whether broad noonday and to achieve a great success in life, though we are unsuc- crowds of people going about their usual avocations cessful in the world. "Greater is he that ruleth his would not heighten, by contrast, the terror of such a own spirit than he that taketh a city. To rule one's sight. As our gaze fell upon him or her, upon the own spirit, is to succeed in life—to live royally. Such opposite side of the roaring street, whom we had self-subjection begets love and confidence in others. believed to be five fathom five in ocean, and to Women especially cling to those who are self-reliant have suffered a sea-change these many years, how and modest. It is true that some women love the proud suddenly the hand would drop with which we were and ambitious man who moves heaven and earth to receiving our change, or with which we were hailing compass his own honour; but such love is earthly in our omnibus. The poet has truly written that, for its nature, and dies out with prosperity or notoriety. the most part, such supposed guests of Pluto (or Many a great man, too, has been unsuccessful in the Davy Jones) would find but an iron welcome upon world, but has lived successfully, working ever towards their return. But supposing that one had been their a high end, and pioneering the way for those who heir, and had spent the policy of their life-insurance ! I shall make a successful work before the world. The wonder what the poet would have said about it then. alchemists of the middle ages were many of them of Having myself been secretary to a life-assurance this class; they did not deem their lives wasted or company for many years, I know something about unsuccessful, though they did not achieve their definite these matters. We, the company, are most unfeignpurpose. The true way to succeed in life is to find edly distressed at the death of any of our customers, out what God has fitted us for doing, and to do that but we feel a satisfaction, melancholy indeed, but still as persistently as we can through all the lets and a great satisfaction, in seeing the body, before we pay hinderances of our own nature, and the circumstances the piper—the policy. Within the present century, over which we have no control. We may fail in the and soon after I was appointed to the Grand National special world's work we hoped to do, in the labour we and Provincial Costermongers' Friend Society, occurred loved; but we can learn to bear the disappointment, the following circumstances: The G. N. P. C. F. S. did and take to something that may prosper with us. We not confine itself to benefiting costermongers, of can comfort ourselves by reflecting that another will course, but took everybody's life it could get; amongst do better what we had hoped to do, and that we can others, that of a young tipman, name, Robert Noggins, appreciate his worth, and praise him more meetly than residence, Ipswich; peculiarity, weakness in the left another could who had not laboured in the same field. leg-for which he wore an elastic stocking-insurance, If we live in this spirit, we can never fail' in life, four hundred pounds: a large sum for a tinman, we never sink down to wretchedness and weak despair. thought, and be sure we stuck it on to the premium, It will not make us unhappy to hear the sad laments on account of the elastic stocking. He told our
doctor, in answer to the usual questions, that his And was that'-with indignation—the sole ground uncle had died by accident'--tumbled off a tree with upon which they had come into that court and taken & rope round his neck, as we discovered afterwards; oath ?' and as that sort of disease is in some measure 'No; the deceased person had remarkably long hereditary, we were extra particular.
nails, and the corpse had very long nails also. There In rather less than five months after his admission, was the mark of an elastic stocking, such as the we received a letter from Joseph Noggins, his cousin deceased was known to have worn, still traceable upon and executor, written on mourning note-paper, in a the left leg; and fourthly, there was a tooth missing black-edged envelope, with a black wafer:
from the lower jaw, and the deceased was known to
have had a bottom tooth extracted.' Ipswich, November 2.
Our own medical witness then deposed. "GENTLEMEN-I regret to have to inform you that my dear cousin Robert was drowned last evening at ing evening, and did not consider the forehead to be a
Had carefully examined the corpse upon the precedLowestoft, while bathing from off the beach.'
particularly high one; it was neither a high forehead Drowned !' said our manager ; 'ah, he doesn't say nor a low forehead; there was no mark of an elastic whether he's found.'
stocking upon the left leg, so far as he (witness) could So I wrote an answer of condolence to Joseph observe, at all; with regard to the length of the nails, Noggins, saying that the company would like to shew the corpse had not any nails whatever (sensation); their respect for the departed, by sending down some nevertheless, the action of water during a long period, trustworthy person to attend the inquest. We were which had destroyed the nails, had bared the skin referred, by return of post, to the advertisement beneath in such a manner as to give the appearance of columns of the Times, wherein we read that L.25 long nails, perhaps, to a superficial observer. Fourthly, reward was offered for the recovery of the body of had examined the lower jaw very minutely; and Robert Noggins, and L.2 for that of his watch. The although there was a space between the middle teeth, unfortunate deceased, with a sort of foreboding, as it arose from a decayed tooth whose stump was still it almost seemed, of his affecting end, had lately remaining; no tooth in the bottom row had ever been insured himself for the same amount of L.400 in two extracted. other offices besides our own; so that the three com- Our counsel pressed these contradictory assertions panies clubbed together, and instead of replying to upon the attention of the jury, and commented upon the lawyers' letters, which daily arrived, upon the the exceeding improbability of a body drowned at subject of the policy, we sent down a detective officer Lowestoft finding its way past the Wash and other to Lowestoft.
convenient inlets to Kingston-upon-Hull. Finally, he This was what that gentleman gathered there, upon threw out the delicate suggestion that Joseph Noggins, the sea-shore and other places, sauntering about, as it being, as we had discovered, a sexton, had opportunimight be pleasure-seeking: That Robert Noggins had ties of setting bodies afloat which were not enjoyed been residing at Lowestoft for a fortnight previous to by everybody. All this opposed to the fact that the his untimely death, having been recommended to try cousin and the two friends still swore to the similitude sea-bathing for his weak left leg; that he did bathe of their dear departed as stoutly as ever, so bewildered every day, and sometimes in the morning, not from the jury, that they returned an open verdict, to the a machine, but from the beach ; that he bathed from effect that there was not sufficient evidence to estabthe beach as late as seven o'clock upon the 1st of lish the identity of the body. November at high-water, and was never seen after- On the next day, the corpse was interred with wards ; his clothes were found above high-water mark, considerable pomp, its three identifiers in deep mourn but not his watch and not his elastic stocking; ing and tears following it in three funeral-coaches to moreover, he had taken a great bag with him when he the church-yard. One thing only was wanting to went to bathe; that the fishermen all assert that they prove their entire conviction that it was poor Robert have had no experience of a Lowestoft body not being Noggins and no other, and that was, that they resolfound; that since L.25 had been offered for this par- utely refused to pay the fisherman who found it the ticular "party,' they have done their best both inshore L.25 reward advertised for its recovery ; and under and upon the sandbanks, and believe the melancholy these circumstances, the G. N. P. C. F. S. considers event to be all gammon. To this opinion, our detective, itself also justified in not paying the policy. in conclusion, cordially assents. The three companies accordingly resisted Cousin Joseph's several claims, in the absence of more certain proofs of Robert's demise,
FROM ANCONA TO LORETTO. and received, in due course, notice of action.
The famous Santa Casa, or holy house of Loretto, After an interval of six weeks, a letter arrives from has long been recognised as the principal attraction the enemy's solicitor, with news that the body is found of the Marche ; indeed, it is so well known to tourists, - found in the river Humber, at Kingston-upon-Hull, that I should have left my excursion thither unreand the inquest is to be held upon it on the following corded, had not this omission rendered my picture of day. Off I start, within an hour, northward, by local manners and customs incomplete.* Little as express train, in company with two of our clerks; the the Anconitans are given to locomotion, I never met distance is so great that fast as we travel, we don't an instance of one who had not visited the shrine at arrive at Kingston in time. The inquest is closed. least once in his or her life, whilst many make it a We have an interview with the coroner, and he declines point of conscience to repair thither every year. The to interfere. The cousin of the deceased and two inti- distance from Ancona by the high-road is twenty mate friends have identified the body upon oath, and miles—a journey of five hours, in that country of steep every legal regulation has been complied with. Then hills and slow coaches; but travellers are generally said we: We suspect fraud;' and laid before him our disposed to overlook the tedium of the way in their reasons for suspecting it. At last, he consented to the admiration of the scenery it discloses. Few, however, reopening of the inquest for one day; in the meantime, have any conception of the still more picturesque and unknown to the other party, we got permission for features of the circuitous route through which, one a neighbouring surgeon to examine the corpse very lovely evening in June, we pursued our pilgrimage to particularly; we got counsel, the next morning, to Loretto. cross-examine the witnesses very particularly also. There was nothing very original or brilliant in our
“How did they identify the deceased person ?'
* See Chambers's Journal, Nos. 151, 166, 187.
party. The V-family—the same with whom we the road. It was rapidly growing dark; for it must went to the rural christening-joined the expedition, not be forgotten there is no twilight in Italy, and the too adventurous for any of our Italian friends; moon was not yet visible; so we had nothing to do the consul, the Chevalier V-, this time escorting but admire the fireflies which the midshipmen ruthhis wife and lively Polish daughters, very proud, as lessly persisted in ensnaring in their caps and handkerhe protested, of the charge my uncle had delegated chiets, or laugh at the efforts of l'officier marié, as our to him as his representative towards my cousins friends had named the young lieutenant, to sustain a and unworthy self." He was a good man, that dear conversation in French. No fear of robbers crossed chevalier, in every acceptation of the term, but his our minds; the consul and our countrymen were sphere was certainly not a scrambling gipsying armed, it is true, but more as a security against enterprise, such as we contemplated, and his presence danger in the vicinity of Loretto, than in the unfrewould have proved hopelessly depressing, had it not quented districts we were traversing, where there were been for the antidote furnished by the indomitable no travellers or wealthy householders to attract the spirits of a lieutenant and two little midshipmen gangs which swarmed on the papal highways. belonging to an English frigate lying in the harbour, At last, after the consul's lamentations on the who had obtained permission to accompany us. The weariness of the way began to find an echo in our fair hair and ruddy cheeks of the middies, reminding own hearts, we emerged from a narrow path, shut in Madame V— of her own absent boys, had pleaded by steep banks, upon the casino. But it was not irresistibly in their favour; their extreme juvenility on its open doors, or the hospitable lights kindling too, she argued, screened her from any breach of for our reception, that our eyes were turned. I do not the convenances she was always so solicitous to remember being ever 80 enchanted by any view as that maintain. As to the young lieutenant, he was a now presented to us. I know not whether daylight married man, carried about his baby's likeness in would rob it of any portion of its beauty and soothing a locket, and spent fabulous sums in presents for influence; I can only speak of it as it impressed me his wife. No anxiety could therefore be felt on his then-so calm, so pure, so still. We were standing on score, no dread of exciting the remonstrances of a the verge of a lofty cliff that stretched precipitously certain black-browed parish priest, who, I very well forward like a crescent, and formed a bay on whose know, left the poor lady no peace on the impropriety waters the moon, which had just risen, poured a flood of throwing her daughters into the temptations of of trembling silvery light; while on one side, dark, English male heretical society.
ominous, and frowning, rose the mount, projecting far It had been arranged that we should walk the first into the sea, and towering in its sullen grandeur above five miles of the way, with the exception of the the rippling waves which bore their snowy wreaths consolessa, who was provided with a donkey, as far as of foam in tribute to its feet. Clear and defined an unoccupied country-house, kindly placed at our against the moonlit sky, with no trees or verdure disposal by its owners; thence, after needful rest and to clothe its rocky steeps, there was something inexrefreshment, we were to ascend the Monte d'Ancona, a pressibly sublime in the aspect of this mountain, and lofty mountain, famed for a Trappist convent on its the lonely character of the surrounding scenery. No summit
, and a magnificent range of prospect. To sound invaded the perfect quietude of the hour except reach the top before daybreak, in order to see the sun the reverential murmur of the sea, and faintly in the rise, was an essential feature in our programme; it distance, the voices of some fishermen, whose barks was the only subject connected with nature on which were gliding forth, their sails filling with the evening the Anconitans ever shewed any enthusiasm. Several breeze, and glistening in the moonbeams. of our acquaintances had, in their youth, they told us, The preparations for supper were soon completed. braved the exertion and loss of rest to witness the The peasants left in charge of the house had eggs, and levata del sole from the mount. Others regretted they fruit and wine in readiness, and Madame V- had had not the energy to attempt it. None ridiculed our taken care that our donkey's panniers should contain undertaking. I felt very curious to belold what awoke all the substantial requisites for a repast. The midsuch unusual admiration.
shipmen delightedly superintended the laying of the We were all in a cheerful mood, and not a little cloth, and then summoned us to table, where their diverted, as we passed through the narrow streets on bibations of the sparkling Muscatel profusely supplied, our way to the gate, at the astonishment excited by did credit to the excellence of our friend the conte's the appearance of Madame V-on a very antiquated vintage. chair-saddle, upon her long-eared steed. The people When the meal was over, the old contadina, who flocked to look at her with unrestrained curiosity, till officiated as housekeeper, her Sunday costume and the consul turned suddenly round, and apostrophising strings of pearls donned in honour of our visit, recomthe gazers, inquired sternly, whether they considered mended us to take a little sleep before midnight, the foreign custom of riding upon an ass more wonder. at which hour we were to set out for the mount in ful than their own of being driven by a cow. The birocci—those primitive-shaped carts drawn by oxen or justness of this reasoning, or rather the energy with cows that I have elsewhere minutely described. This which it was enunciated, having produced an instan- reasonable advice the consul forth with enforced by taneous effect in the dispersion of the crowd, we were example as well as precept, and was soon slumbering suffered to proceed unmolested, followed by a second sonorously on a sofa in the dining-room. Not feeling donkey laden with provisions.
inclined to follow his admonitions while the moonlight Our route, immediately after quitting the town, lay shone almost as bright as day, we all preferred explornear the cliff's forming the line of coast behind the ing the casino and strolling in its vicinity, accompromontory on which Ancona is built, in singular con- panied by the dear patient consolessa, who evidently trast to the sandy beach extending northward towards did not think the convenances permitted her to lose Sinigaglia and Pesaro. Sometimes the road quite sight of us, and consequently protested that she was skirted the edge of the precipice, and deviating from not in the least fatigued. the undulations of the cliffs, would change the marine The house was soon looked over. No arm-chairs, to a pastoral landscape, and lead to paths shaded no couches, no ottomans; nothing but stiff highby trees and flowering hedges, admitting occasional backed cane sofas, that seemed intended for anyglimpses of mountains in the distance.
thing but repose. There was a billiard-room, and a For the next two or three miles, our course lay little chapel, or rather recess, divided by a pair of entirely between hedges, screening the possessioni, or folding-doors from the principal sitting-room, where small farms, into which the land is subdivided from mass was celebrated when the family were in the
country: hut we could discover no books or traces of uncovering, made the sign of the cross, and then aught resembling a library. In fact, as I have before flung themselves weariedly upon the ground, screened remarked, as most Italians consider reading a study, by a low parapet from the wind, which circled and have no idea of it as a recreation, all appliances in keen gusts around; while we look forth upon thereto are generally left behind when they come pro- the sea, and the glowing light that was stealing fast fessedly in search of health and mental relaxation to their vileggiature. From six weeks to two monthis is Brighter and brighter grows that radiance, until, as the utmost amount of time they devote for this pur- by the lifting of a veil, the distant peaks of the pose. What with looking after their farms and a little mountains on the opposite Dalmatian shores become shooting, the men get through this period with toler. distinctly visible, thrown into bold relief by the able satisfaction; to the ladies, it is always fraught illuminated background, and we span the breadth and with intense ennui.
borders of the beauteous Adriatic. Fleeting as a The resources of floriculture with rare exceptions, dream is that unwonted spectacle, for lo! the glorious are unknown to the women of the Marche. There sun has leaped upwards from his mountain-bed,
one lady of rank in Ancona who had laid and the glad waters quiver and exult beneath his out a garden at one of her country-houses with con- presence. Higher and higher still he rises, and Night siderable taste. It was the only innovation I witnessed flies scared before him, as if seeking a refuge in that upon the orthodox quadrangular enclosure, fenced in vague dim space where yet she holds her sway. It is by high walls with espaliers of lemons, and little a wondrous contrast, the golden sparkling sea, and three-cornered flower-beds, intersected by gravel-paths, sable land, nature's mingled waking and repose—but which graced a few of the casini of the wealthiest short-lived as wondrous, for like the gradual uprolling proprietors. Her example, however, found no imi- of a scroll, so does the darkness recede which covers tators; and with a soil and climate exquisitely adapted the face of the fair and wide-spread prospect; and for their cultivation, flowers receive less attention and hamlets and towns, hills and valleys, fields thick with seem less prized in the Roman states than in any other corn, olive trees and vineyards, seem to start into part of Italy. Here, in this secluded villa, where the being while we gaze. interest and occupation attendant on such a pursuit The peasants pointed out exultingly a number of would have beguiled the weariness of the contessa's towns distinguishable with the naked eye-Osimo, banishment from the fleas, bad smells, and stifling Loretto, Recanati, Macerata, besides many others, alí atmosphere which render Ancona, during the hottest with an individual history of their own, in feudal months, a somewhat questionable Elysium, a small times having boasted an independent exis nce, and wood adjoining the house, a few rose-bushes planted waged petty wars with each other. Nearly a hundred round cabbages, and two or three cobwebby arbours, towns and villages are said to be discernible from this were all the evidences of ornamental gardening we height; but it was not on any of these in particular could trace.
that the attention of a stranger would be admiringly About midnight, we heard the slow dragging of directed, but rather to the grand panoramic effect of wheels, and presently the peasants of the possessione the whole, bounded by its unrivalled background of came up with two birocci to the gate. Mattresses were Apennines, rising in terrace-like succession, till the then placed at the bottom of each, on which we were last range blended with the clouds. to sit; and after Madame V— had carefully arranged After nearly an hour's survey-it was much longer the cloaks and shawls her prudent care foresaw would according to the chevalier's impatient calculation, in erelong be necessary, we took our places, and in good which he was abetted by the midshipmen-we prepared earnest commenced the ascent. Before long, the to depart. After bidding farewell to our birocci, we extraordinary and unnecessary steepness of the road descended upon the opposite side of the mount on foot, became apparent. With a singular defiance of all accompanied only by a boy to act as guide, and not engineering, it was carried abruptly up to the tops of without casting many lingering looks at the convent, hills, merely to descend with corresponding rapidity on and longing for a glimpse of those white-robed monks, the other side, reminding me more of the Russian who-each isolated in his own cell, and occupied in sliding mountains than any other illustration I can the cultivation of the patch of ground whence he think off, and occasionally becoming so disagreeably derives his subsistence-holding no communion of perpendicular, and so distressing to the poor cows, which speech without the permission of the superior, except panted loudly at every step, that we often preferred on three great festivals in the year, and never pergetting out to walk, to overtasking their strength mitted to go beyond the walls of the convent, have and risking our own safety.
voluntarily delivered themselves to a foretaste of the When the moon went down, the air became chill, silence and confinement of the tomb. and all of us gave tokens of weariness. As it An hour's quick walking brought us to Umana, approached three o'clock, our conductors, pointing where carriages were to be in readiness to convey us to a faint break in the horizon, urged us to hasten across the country to Loretto. Formerly of some our steps, as day would soon be dawning. Thus importance as an episcopal see, Umana is now admonished, a few minutes of brisk walking brought reduced to a mere harbour for fishing-boats; still, us to the top of the mountain, which, so far as we however, containing some handsome though halfcould distinguish in the dull grayness pervading every ruined buildings, and having its grass-grown piazza, object, was an irregular platform, on three sides over- dingy caffè, and aristocratic loungers. The bishopric hanging the sea, and on the fourth commanding a has been merged in that of Ancona, but the palace wide dark boundless expanse, on which the blackness yet remains, in readiness for an occasional pastoral of night still rested. A little lower down, in a shel visitation. We had been courteously promised we tered hollow, amid dusky groves of evergreen, cold, should find it open for our reception; and dusty, tired, stern, and desolate, rose the white walls of the cele- and hungry, we were glad to cross its threshold. brated Trappist monastery. The strange tales current But before allowing us to sit down, the old couple of the austerities of its inmates and of the disappoint- who had charge of the palazzo insisted on conducting ment or remorse which had driven them to its seclusion, us through all the apartments, that we might see the seemed appropriate to the surrounding gloom and the best accommodation they had to offer was placed at spectral aspect of the building, when the tones of the our disposal. Accordingly, we were forced to per: matin-bell broke the oppressive silence that prevailed, ambulate long corridors and innumerable rooms full and the Ave Maria del giorno summoned the monks to of doors, opening one into the other, through which their orisons in the choir. Our guides, reverently it seemed vain to search for one that was not simply