which gave a surname to the Muses, and on whose banks Boreas carried off Orithya.

On our return from the Ilissus, M. Fauvel led me over waste grounds, where the site of the Lyceum must be sought. We next came to the large detached columns, standing in that quarter of the city which was denominated New Athens, or the Athens of the Emperor Adrian. Spon asserts, that these pillars are the remains of the portico of the One Hundred and Twenty Columns; and Chandler presumes that they belonged to the tem ple of Jupiter Olympus. They are mentioned by Lechevalier, and other travellers. Good representations of them are given in the different views of Athens, and especially in the work of Stuart, who has restored the entire edifice after its ruins. On a portion of the architrave, which still connects two of these columns, is seen a mean building, formerly the habitation of a hermit. It is impossible to conceive how this hut could have been built on the capitals of these prodigious columns, which are perhaps upwards of sixty feet in height. Thus, this vast temple, at which the Athenians worked for seven hundred years; which all the kings of Asia coveted the honor of finishing; which Adrian, the master of the world, had alone the glory to complete; this temple has been laid low by the attacks of time, and the cell of an anchorite still continues standing upon its ruins! A miserable hovel of

Ilissiades; they had an altar on the banks of the Ilissus.

plaster is supported in the air by two columns of marble, as if Fortune had determined to exhibit to mankind on this magnificent pedestal a monument both of her triumphs and of her caprices.

These columns, though much more lofty than those of the Parthenon, are far inferior in beauty; the degeneracy of the art is observable in them; but as they stand insulated and scattered over a naked space, they produce a surprising effect. I stopped at their bases to listen to the wind whistling about their summits: they resemble those solitary palm-trees which are here and there to be seen among the ruins of Alexandria. When the Turks are threatened with calamities of any kind, they bring a lamb to this place, and force it to bleat while they hold up its head towards the sky. Unable to find the voice of innocence among men, they have recourse to the young of the harmless sheep to avert the wrath of heaven.

We returned to Athens through the gate, over which is seen the well-known inscription:

THIS IS THE CITY OF ADRIAN,

AND NOT THE CITY OF THESEUS.

We returned the visit which had been paid me by M. Roque, and spent the evening at his house, where I met several ladies. Such readers as wish for information respecting the dress, manners, and customs of the Turkish, Greek, and Albanian women at Athens, may consult the twenty-sixth chapter of Chandler's Travels in Greece. I would have transcribed the whole passage, had it not been

too long. I shall merely observe that the women of Athens appeared to me smaller and less handsome than those of the Morea. Their practice of painting the orbit of the eyes blue, and staining the tips of the fingers red, is disagreeable to a stranger; but as I have seen women with pearls suspended to the nose, as the Iroquois think this custom exceedingly genteel, and I was myself inclined to be partial to it, I must not find fault with tastes. For the rest, the women of Athens were never celebrated for beauty. They were reproached with a fondness for wine. As a proof that their charms was not the most powerful, all the cele brated men of Athens were attached to foreign females: Pericles, Sophocles, Socrates, Aristotle, and even the divine Plato.

On the 25th we mounted our horses very early, and leaving the city, took the road to the Phalereus. As we approached the sea, the coast gradually be came more elevated, and terminated in heights, the sinuosities of which form, to the east and west, the harbours of the Phalereus, Munychia, and Piræus. On the beach of the Phalereus we discerned traces of the walls that encompassed the port, and other ruins which were mere heaps of rubbish; these were perhaps the temples of Juno and Ceres. Near this spot lay the little field and tomb of Aristides. We went down to the harbour, a circular basin, with a bottom of fine sand, capable of containing about fifty boats. This was exactly the number that Menestheus conducted to Troy:

Τω δ'ἅμα πεντήκοντα μέλαιναι νῆες ἕποντυ.

"He was followed by fifty black vessels."

Theseus also set sail from Phalereus at his departure for Crete.

Pourquoi, trop jeune encor, ne pûtes vous alors
Entrer dans le vaisseau qui le mit sur nos bords?
Par vous auroit pêri le monstre de la Crete, &c.

It is not always large ships and capacious harbours that confer immortality. The name of a small creek, and of a little bark, sung by Homer and Racine can never perish.

From the harbour of Phalereus we proceeded to that of Munychia, which is of an oval figure and rather larger than the former. Lastly, turning the extremity of a craggy hill, and advancing from cape to cape, we reached the Piræus. M. Fauvel stopped in the curvature formed by a neck of land to shew me a sepulchre excavated in the rock: it is now without roof, and is upon a level with the sea. By the regular flowing and ebbing of the tide, it is alternately covered and left exposed, by turns full and empty. At the distance of a few paces on the shore are seen the remains of a monument.

M. Fauvel insists that in this place the bones of Themistocles were deposited. This interesting discovery is, however, contested. It is objected, that the fragments scattered around are too splendid to have been the tomb of Themistocles; and that, according to Diodorus, the geographer, quoted by Plutarch, this tomb was in reality an altar.

This objection is by no means solid. Why introduce into the original question another that is totally foreign to the subject? May not the ruins of white marble, concerning which such difficulties are raised, have belonged to a very different sepulchre from that of Themistocles? Why might not the descendants of Themistocles, after the popular animosities had subsided, have decorated the tomb of their illustrious progenitor whom they had first interred in a simple manner, and even by stealth, as we are informed by Thucydides? Did they not consecrate a picture representing the history of that great man; and was not this picture exhibited to public view in the Parthenon, at the time of Pausanias? A statue was, moreover, erected in honour of Themistocles, in the Prytaneum.

The spot where M. Fauvel has discovered this tomb is precisely the Cape Alcimus: and of this I shall adduce a stronger proof than that of the calmness of the water in this place. There is an error in Plutarch; the name should be Alimus, instead of Alcimus, according to the remark of Meursius, mentioned by Dacier. Alimus was a demos, or hamlet of Attica, in the district of Leontis, and situated to the east of the Piræus. Now the ruins of this hamlet are still visible in the vicinity of the tomb of which we are speaking.* Pausanias is ex

* I have no wish to conceal any difficulty, and am aware that some writers have placed Alimus to the castward of Phalereus. Thucydides was a native of Alimus.