taken by English travellers, leading directly across the glaciers of Moute Rosa, and affording a very short cut from Zermatt to Macagnaga, in the Val Anzasca.

This is the pass now called the Weiss Thor, but, to distinguish it from the old and now disused pass of that name, it should be called the New Weiss Thor. (See Rte. 121.) The pass now used, which appears to have been first discovered about 1849 or 1850, is rather higher than the old pass, being 11,851 ft. above the sea. For mountaineers who can count upon the perfect steadiness of their heads, and upon their endurance in the event of bad weather coming ou, there is no danger in the pass; but it is by no means a route for inexperienced travellers, unless accompanied by good guides, and in very settled weather. The guides ask 25 fr. for the expedition, and a stout youth to act as porter may be had for 15 fr. In taking the pass from Zermatt it is rather shorter to go by the Findelen glacier, but it is far more advisable to sleep at the Riffel Hotel, and to be on the Gorner glacier as early as possible in the morning. Starting from the inn on the Riffelberg, the path on the rt. leaves the little lake at the foot of the Riffelhorn, and then passes nearly on a level along the very steep slope forming the southern face of the Gorner Grat, at first at a great height above the glacier, till the gradual rise of the glacier brings its surface to a level with the path in about an hour after leaving the hotel. The glacier is thus ascended for some distance, but the crevasses soon render it necessary to return to the rocks on the 1. In about 2 hrs. from the Riffel the path takes to the glacier again. From this point, with the ridge dividing the Gorner from the Findelen glacier on the 1., Monte Rosa on the rt., and the peak of the Cima di Jazi in front, the track lies nearly in a straight line over easy slopes of snow, and across or round numerous crevasses, some altogether concealed, others revealing blue chasms walled with ice of great purity and solidity. Towards the

higher part of this great snow-field the 2 glaciers-Gorner and Findelen become mingled together, there being here only a faint dividing ridge. Looking back from here, the view is very grand, and takes in nearly the whole of the vast chain extending from Monte Rosa to Mont Blanc-seen, however, in the direction of its length, so that it is not easy to distinguish many of the intermediate peaks. The track now bears away to the 1., or nearly due N., leaving on the.rt. hand the snowy summit of the Cima de Jazi, and crossing a slight depression in the ridge joining the latter summit and the Strahlhorn. After ascending for a short distance on the N. side of this depression, a point is reached where in two or three steps the scene is changed as if by enchantment. Instead of toiling over a snow-field, with no object visible save boundless fields of névé and occasional black rocks, the traveller finds himself on a narrow ledge of rock apparently overhanging a precipice. On the N. or left-hand side this terminates in a projecting buttress only a few yards distant; in the opposite direction the precipitous wall on whose summit he is standing is seen to extend far to the southward, until it is united to the tremendous eastern face of Monte Rosa. The highest intervening summit is that of the Cima de Jazi, not more than 600 or 700 ft. higher than where he stands. The precipice terminates only a few feet from the summit of the Cima; and there, and in many other places, the thick layer of snow which coats the top of the ridge is seen to form an overhanging cornice that might be easily broken away by the weight of an unwary traveller. Looking downward, if the valley below be clear, the traveller sees the lower end of the Macugnaga glacier about 6000 ft. below him, appearing so near that a stone flung from the hand might reach it. It far more commonly happens, even in fine weather, that a sea of cloud hangs like a pall between the valley below and the spectator. Lying, as they do, some thousands of

feet below him, he supposes the clouds to fill the valley, while the people of Macugnaga, seeing clouds three or four thousand feet above their heads, imagine that they cover the mountaintops. The single point at which the edge of the precipice is conveniently reached is often selected by the guides as a halting-place for luncheon. However uninviting the appearance of the precipice may be even to mountaineers, it is quite possible to descend directly from this point, but the guides seldom choose that course. The rocks are excessively steep, and there are one or two points that are scarcely safe, except to practised cragsmen, used to "hold on by their eyelids." The usual course is to ascend along the ridge for a short distance further to the N., until a few projecting rocks are reached. At this point the great wall connecting Monte Rosa and the Strahlhorn, along the top of which the track has hitherto lain, is joined by a transverse ridge running in an easterly direction, and forming in this place the boundary between Switzerland and Italy. This transverse ridge is much lower than the wall against which it abuts, and at the point of junction it is united by a steep buttress of rock partly coated with snow and ice. It is by this buttress that the pass of the New Weiss Thor is usually effected. The N. side looks towards Saas, and overhangs the Schwarzberg Glacier, which descends near to the Distel Alp. The S. side of the buttress faces the Macugnaga glacier. It is by the N. side that the first part of the descent is made, along some very steep but not dangerous faces of rock. There is good holding-ground for hands and feet. After about a quarter of an hour the chief apparent difficulty of the pass is encountered. This is an extremely steep ridge of snow, sometimes frozen hard, along the edge of which the descent lies. With good guides, and proper use of the rope, there is no danger.

At the foot of this are some steep rocks with snow between them. The track now takes to the Macugnaga side of the ridge, and the remainder

of the descent is alternately over rocks, piles of débris, and snow slopes which are sometimes favourable for a glissade. Here ne rope, which ought to have been in use since reaching the névé of the upper part of the Gorner glacier, may be laid aside, and the remainder of the descent presents no difficulties. From 9 to 10 hrs. (according to the state of the snow) should be allowed for reaching Macugnaga from the Riffel Hotel, exclusive of halts. At least an hour more should be allowed in taking the pass from Macugnaga to the Riffel, which involves a much longer and steeper ascent. Clouds often gather round the summit, and the services of a thoroughly experienced guide are essential. [From the foot of the arête it is easy to reach the Schwarzberg glacier, and so descend into the valley of Saas, a little above the inn at the Mattmark See. (See Rte. 122.)]

e. The Weiss-thor pass is, however, rather difficult and dangerous; and a finer view can be obtained by going Cima di Jazi (12,527 ft.). This can be part of the way and then ascending easily reached in 5 hrs. from the Riffelberg Hotel. During the greater part of the time the path is over ice and snow on easy slopes, and there is height which can be so easily ascended. no other mountain in the Alps of that The view from the top extends over the Pennine chain, the Bernese Alps, and the plains and lakes of Italy, and visable, but in general there is neither to the Tyrol. A rope is always addifficulty nor danger. The guide has usually 10 fr.

f. Monte Rosa. The highest part of Monte Rosa consists of a range of 5 peaks running N. and S., the extremities of the range not being more than 2 m. apart. Commencing at the northern end, the names and heights of the peaks are, according to the latest measurements,

The Nord End was first ascended in 1855 by Sir T. and Mr. E. Buxton, and Mr. Cowell. The Höchste Spitze was ascended by the brothers Schlagintweit, by Messrs. E. G. and C. Smyth, and by Mr. E. S. Kennedy prior to 1855, but the point reached was about 18 ft. short of the highest summit. This was first attained in the latter year by Messrs. Hudson, G. and C. Smyth, Birkbeck, and Stevenson, accompanied by Ulrich Lauener, of Lauterbrunnen, and 3 Zermatt guides. This, the highest peak of the mountain, is called par excellence Monte Rosa.

The Zumstein Spitze was several times ascended by the intrepid explorer whose name it bears.

The Signal Kuppe was reached in 1842 by M. Gnifetti, the curé of Alagna.

Since 1860, the ascent of Monte Rosa has become very common; for, though it is more difficult and dangerous than Mt. Blanc, yet, by starting

from the Riffelberg, the expedition up and down again may be accomplished in about 14 hrs., and there is no necessity for sleeping out on the mountain. It takes from 7 to 8 hrs.' walk over snow and glacier, passing Auf der Platte, to reach the base of the cone forming the summit. Here the real difficulty begins. It is a very steep rock, its hollows filled with ice; and, though only 500 ft. high, requires nearly an hour to ascend, and as much to descend. The most difficult part of all is that which leads to the very highest point. The best guides should be taken, and the usual charge is 50 fr. each guide.

g. Those who do not intend crossing into the Val d'Aosta from Zermatt by the St. Theodule (Rte. 128) will be gratified by ascending to the highest point of the pass. The scenery is grand in the highest degree, and the excursion neither dangerous, difficult,