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NO. 15.

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY ADAM WALDIE, No. 6, NORTH EIGHTH Street, PhilaDELPHIA-At $5 for 52 numbers, payable in advance. Wren* and subsequent writers: but it seems now to be occasions, inability to reason with the individual, and a constituted by their office the friends of mankind at generally admitted that the term was misapplied; for the consciousness that physical superiority is on the side of large. National hospitality sanctions what might otherheavy and cumbrous style of architecture which pre- the villagers, who will always espouse their brother's wise be deemed an intrusion; for here, as in India, vailed over Europe from the fourth to the twelfth cen- cause, are painfully felt. But on these and many greater every gentleman's house is open to a traveller. To my tury was a rude and incorrect imitation of the Grecian, annoyances the traveller must calculate, placing them in surprise the note was returned, with an answer that the as handed down through Roman models. In England it the scale against much enjoyment. priest was out. I construed this into an intimation that was called Saxon, because it obtained during the period The next morning I started at half-past six, and ac- the priest did not understand Latin, and went to the of the Saxon dynasty: but it is to be traced to our Ro-complished nearly twelve Swedish, or about seventy-five post-house, where a better room awaited me than I had man conquerors, whose skill and science were lost in the English, miles by eight in the evening. The road lay expected. A forebud was immediately despatched all amalgamation of their descendants with the uncivilised through forests of fir, and was not strikingly beautiful the way to Stockholm; nor was I sorry that my body Britons. When England became part of Christendom in any part. Incessant rain through the day necessarily should enjoy the day which, in no less mercy to our phyin the sixth century, the Pagan temples were conse- detracted from the pleasure of a drive in an open gig. sical than spiritual necessitics, is set apart as a season crated to Christian worship. By degrees the emissaries Under less unfavourable circumstances, the surrounding of rest. of the Pope manifested their zeal by teaching their con- country might have worn a better aspect. On Sunday morning I attended divine service. The verts to raise superior structures of stone after Roman In the course of the day I passed through two towns, language, it is true, was unintelligible; yet there is a models. Some of our abbots are said to have hired Carlstad and Christinehamn. Carlstad is situated on an pleasure in being within the sanctuary where God's peoworkmen from Rome, and themselves to have made island at the northern extremity of the lake of Wenner, ple are met together to honour his holy day. There is journeys thither, for the purpose of studying the archi-one of the largest in the world, whose ample surface pre-little difference, as you are aware, on essential points, tecture of St. Peter's. When the Danes and Normans, sents an unbroken horizon to the eye of the inland citi-between the Lutheran and English churches. The who, as Pagans, were relentless in the destruction of zen. The town is named after Charles the Ninth of priest wears a long robe trailing on the ground, with a Christian churches, were themselves converted, they be- Sweden, by whom it was built. The streets are long lappet behind, resembling that of the under-graduates at came equally zealous in the erection of those monuments and broad. The houses, though built exclusively of Cambridge. The men and women sit in different parts of their penitence and faith that still exist in vast num-wood, sometimes attain the height of three stories, and of the church. The service is conducted much like our bers in England and Normandy. All the Norman have an imposing appearance. Most of them, however, own; but there is more singing, and some part (I supbishops seem to have been skilled in architecture; for are roofed with turf, as is the case with the houses in the pose the psalms) is chanted by the minister alone, who almost every cathedral church in our island was re-built vicinity; and these elevated grass-plots, which attract does not join the congregation in the rest. by one or other of them within half a century after the the eye of the stranger, produce an effect not altogether The ceremonies of marriage and baptism are also conquest. Their object was to unite the sublime and unpleasing, were it not associated with the dirt of similar to ours. In the one, however, no ring is given, beautiful. Hence, on the one hand, the length and lofti- the interior. Carlstad is the capital of Wermeland, as far as I could observe. In the other, water is placed ness of their buildings; on the other, the elegant deco- and contains a population of two or three thousand. It thrice on the head of the infant, instead of the forehead rations and the series of arches which form an unrivalled is the residence of the governor of the province, and a being thrice marked with the cross. masonic vista. This, which is called the "pointed bishop's see. The parishes are very large. Twenty, thirty, and style," was gradually improved by the efforts of Nor- The surrounding country abounds with mines of iron, even forty miles is the common extent of one. The peomans, English, and French, at a time when those people lead, and copper while the Wenner affords an easy ple have necessarily to go a long way to church. At were intimately connected by political ties; and, instead means of transportation to Gothenborg, and thence to Wall the environs of the building were crowded with of being derived from either Goths or Italians, was pro- England. The forests of fir and birch in this neigh-little cars; and four or five hundred men were collected bably the fruit of Norman zeal and ingenuity, and the bourhood are now and then interspersed with alders and in the church-yard, though the village itself does not pure growth of English soil. junipers, which attain a greater height than I have ob- seem to contain ten houses. There would probably have But to return from this digression. In one of the first served in Norway. In these woods there is a great been a still larger assembly but it rained nearly the stages in Sweden I was accompanied through a forest of quantity of game, with many wild animals. The ca- whole day. firs by a fine girl of eighteen. She jumped up and took percali, or cock of the woods, (now peculiar to Scandi- On Monday I quitted my resting-place at four in the her seat behind with all the confidence of a man and the navia, though, in former days, it used to be known morning. A long journey was before me; and as the innocence of a child. At the end of the stage, she both in Scotland and Ireland,) abounds in Wermeland time of arrival at each station was fixed, it was necessary mounted her nag, and returned to the plough or the more than in any other province of Sweden. Its plu- that it should be punctually observed. At the third postfarm. There is a peculiar simplicity in the Scandina-mage is exquisitely beautiful, almost bearing comparison house, only twenty miles from Wall, I had the mortifivians. They are unacquainted with some of the deco- with that of the hill-pheasant of the Himala; nor is its cation to learn that the forebud, who ought to have arriv. rums and perhaps more of the evils of a higher state of size inferior, as it averages from ten to twelve pounds. ed on Saturday night, had preceded me by a few hours civilisation. In one house I entered, a girl of sixteen Woodcocks and black cocks are not rare. Hares are only. There is no redress and no possibility of ascertainor seventeen, of great beauty of feature, was cooking the found in great abundance. So are foxes, wolves, bears, ing, without the sacrifice of a week, to whom blame atfamily meal, with no other garb than a petticoat. In and lynxes. There are a few badgers, wild cats, gluttons, taches, since the man is changed with the horse at each another, two men and three women were distributed in and elks. In the southern and central parts of Sweden, relay. Accordingly, I quietly pursued my way, assured three beds. My entrance did not disconcert them. One however, the elk is scarcely ever seen, as he does not of soon overtaking the courier, and resigned all hopes of of the women arose, and procured me some milk; while often descend below the sixty-fourth or sixty-fifth de-reaching Stockholm on the morrow. the others only stretched themselves to look at the gree of latitude. At noon I halted at Orebro, a little town, where I prostranger. The men turned, and yawned; then com- The costume of every district has its peculiarity. cured some meat. It was the only mcat except bacon posed themselves for "a little more sleep and a little more The dress of the peasants of Wermeland is generally that I had tasted since entering Sweden six weeks ago; slumber." black. Their coats are cut straight behind, and have no unless at Bergen and Christiania, where I dined four I halted after a journey of eighty miles at Strand, buttons. Their hats are low in the middle, and broad days; and on the Hardanger fjeld, where we were so where nothing was procurable but milk and butter. The brimmed. The tout ensemble is ungraceful and triste. fortunate as to obtain from a huntsman the haunch of hovel was a wretched one, and I was thoroughly uncom- At Christinehamn, which is a smaller town than Carl-a reindeer. Orebro is a neat town, with a market-place fortable. Perhaps this was owing, in part, to a want of stad; I took the precaution to lay in a stock of bread to and regularly built wooden houses. Here the diet was equanimity; for I had been vexed by the bad conduct last till I reached Stockholm; and it was well that I did held which elected the present king as crown prince of of the man who accompanied me through the last stage. so, for some bacon and an omelet were all that the house Sweden. I had a letter of introduction to a man at this Towards the end of it, I had to cross in a ferry the lake where I lodged at night could supply; yet they were place, who proved to be à bookseller. He spoke English; of Vermelen, from the opposite bank of which the vil- enough for one who had lately bivouacked four nights and it was quite a relief to meet with some one, though lage of Strand is distant a quarter of a mile. On arriv- in the region of snow, with provender not so good. but for five minutes, with whom I could interchange an ing at the water-side, no boatmen were at hand; and I In the neighbourhood of Christinehamn, and, indeed, idea. waited a long time. The owner of the horse then in- the observation applies more or less to the whole line of When a man travels in the north, he must make up sisted on unharnessing the animal and returning, be-road from Kongsvinger to Westeros, masses of rock are his mind to part with many comforts, and to be content cause it was late in the evening. As it was his duty to scattered over the surface in great confusion. Here, even when ground for dissatisfaction exists. On his ar convey me to the next post station, I would not suffer enormous blocks of granite, in an isolated position, ex-rival at an inn, instead of the officious atttentions of an him to go away; especially as I should have been un-pose their barren surfaces to the gaze and wonder of the English landlord, he must expect a reception cold as the able, at that hour and with my ignorance of the lan- traveller. There, smaller boulders lie scattered in pro- snow on the mountains. He may have to wander himguage, to obtain another horse. He persisted in his fusion, and partially rounded, as if by the influence of self in search of the half-dressed girl on whom the work determination; therefore I had no resource but to take water. A heathen might fancy that the sons of Terra of the establishment devolves; and when he has found the beast by force and lead him on the ferry. On such had prepared them as offensive weapons against the her after a painful search, he must not be angry at the gods! assurance that neither bed nor food can be obtained.

* "Gothic architecture is a congestion of heavy, dark As it was Saturday, I stopped at the gate of the If he trave! alone in a gig, he will frequently be obliged melancholy, monkish piles."-Wren's Parentalia. priest's house in the village of Wall, and sent in a note, to unharness the horse himself, and take charge of the In direct opposition to these words, in another part of as on many former occasions, to say that, with his per- tackle till the morning. When the gig is to be cleaned, the same work, Sir C. Wren speaks of it as consisting of mission, an English traveller would take shelter under he must at least stand by and overlook the operation, ⚫ slender and misshapen pillars, or rather bundles of his roof for the night. This request was worded as po- thankful that a substitute can be found to save his perstaves and other incongruous props, to support arched litely as my unburnished store of Latin would admit, and sonal labour. Delicacy of taste and feeling will suffer an roofs without entablature." prefaced with an observation that the priesthood are hourly martyrdom. He will often be tried by negli VOL. 11.-15

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cy; yet his temper must ostler and postilion, who are grateful for a donation of a high, it is a privileg ch a constitution of mind, penny or three half-pence each. As no horses are kept on dations, whatever th source of constant trial, [the way, it is necessary to send an avant-courier twenty- Scandinavia, the gr four hours beforehand to order relays; and that you must your knapsack the

d at Koping; but I had calculate within an hour the period of your arrival at [rior to Indian chi f the capital of Sweden. each station, or pay for your bad arithmetic. On the flour of rye, is all th post, and an avant-cou- punctuality and speed of this forebud depends the com- cows are in the mou learned that from Wes- fort of the journey: for if he sleep and you overtake leys; and the stock yond the proposed limit him, which is the case three times out of four, you have ply cheese for the r plies every Tuesday to to wait some hours at each post-house, till horses are none, because the pe red a misfortune proved brought from the neighbouring farms, or the more dis- a hard morsel from ackled by the forebud, I tant commons. Every land owner is obliged in turn to sty, who last year fo nag to a faster pace, and supply horses to the post station. Some of them live at ant, of the family gr ock at night, having ac-a great distance; consequently, as the remuneration is little to minister to i miles in seventeen hours so small, the obligation is considered a hardship, parti- drawback. Even the cularly in the season of harvest, when the cattle are re-weigh little against I great distance by the quired to get in the grain, and the fine weather is so from the scenery of ich is no less picturesque short that the loss of a day is of material importance. tiful. But in former 1 I associations. Here re- The Swedish horses are yet smaller than the Norwe- subject, that I must place, the weary mortal-gian; generally not above thirteen, and often not above ose follies and cruelties twelve hands high. In England they would be called eir penalty was paid by ponies. Their manes and tails are kept uncut. The lithe capital of Westmann-tle creatures are as wild as the forests in which they o and the governor. A graze. They get no corn to eat ; and are never cleaned. On the evening of rt of the town is wretch- When not employed, they are turned loose into the led the capital of Swe uncomfortable as can be woods, to pick up what they can find. Their masters from the bay down w s little of intrinsic merit are much attached to them. The owner, who almost resque. The Malar, a its situation is beautiful. always accompanies, to take back his animal, shows his lake and a river, joins alar, it commands a view affection in a variety of ways. If he thinks his beast in the centre of the to ted within the limits of a is over-driven, he will interfere by force or by tears, ac bridge, you have salt ng themselves into a lake cording as he calculates the driver's strength compared the other. Before rea en by innumerable little with his own. No bearing-rein is used, and I have never itself into two parts e known a horse to fall. This, since I have had experience as the adjacent banks of about five hundred, (a hundred and thirty of which handsome buildings. I have driven harnessed to my gig,) is a high testimony far is the only salt wa to their surefootedness. Their mouths are very hard, the situation of Stockl nor can any force of the arm applied to Swedish bits and Copenhagen. arrest their progress; but this matters little, since they are governed by the voice; and will suddenly halt from as that of any capital a full gallop in obedience to the burr of the driver. The internal are inferior to tackle consists generally of ropes: and is sometimes You enter it with an in large enough to go over two of these diminutive crea-swept away the great n tures; while, at others, its deficiency for one is supplied it with a conviction tha by pieces of string. Yet malgré dirt, size, wildness, beheld so melancholy a ve sailed are altogether and tackle, the Swedish horses travel well, and go up or Thoughts" or "Medita in nor mountainous; but down hill at the full gallop of their little legs, so that you at the pall that Christia ed with forests of birch may make six miles an hour through the day. It is a But to return to Stock d with elms and alders. mistake to suppose that a traveller moves quickly in a traveller in this regu ly native. I formed the Sweden. The sinallness of the horses, delay of the fore- stands on the site of the pected a man who bowed bud, and numerous hills, conspire to retard his progress.Birca. The parallel rov Quarterly Review in his Owing to these causes I never effected more than a Swe- public edifices may appe , and seemed to regard dish mile, which is equal to six English miles and eleven ideas are frozen within conclusion was, he must hundred and forty yards, in an hour. but they cannot interest d to be erroneous. The palace, the glory fternoon, and to-morrow north, has attained a pro ty. covering of plaster inter now craves a cleaner coa The interior is by no mea

n the steamer, and sailed , down the Malar. As in t, alas! the name alone and valleys, the flowers and the sublime, are all rse their country. It is cle, whence one cannot ration from nature up to

si bona nôrint!"

The site of Christian

The roads are particularly good. They are made and kept in repair, like those in the interior of India, by the landholders, who are responsible for that which passes has been as pleasant as a through, or skirts, their estates. A portion is allotted to Perhaps you will wonder each peasant. This is marked by red posts engraved companion, I can travel with his name and placed by the way-side, at a distance are gilding and dirt in ab y knowledge of the lan- of eighty or a hundred yards from one another. A su-pearance of either taste Sometimes I am reduced perintendent pays periodical visits to cach post station, daubs form the royal coll intelligible, yet seldom and delinquents are punished for bad ways. As the soil wonder is to find any thi her. A man cannot tra- is one that rapidly imbibes moisture, rain has no sooner a latitude. The Swedes ountry without learning fallen than it is absorbed. On Saturday last, though at the respectful distance is wants supplied. This during my journey it rained for twelve hours incessantly, A church, dedicated t s rather tantalising that, yet, after an hour's interval, the roads exhibited no signs dust of a long line of kin enefit of experience and of the torrents that had washed them. This is a great scending, you find yourse little, with the people, I comfort; for, with one exception, it has rained every day Charles the Twelfth, Gus commence another gram- since the 12th ultimo, when first I entered Norway. The clothes are exhibited on from necessity; with- Good inns are scarce. They must necessarily be so great kings and warrior s not here as in France, while the number of travellers is small. At present the From that place I carried

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They are both in Latin. The first, called the Codex | Charles the Tenth of France to an inglorious exile. Sweden is popular. He is reputed to have said, certainly Giganteus, is of enormous size. It is said to be written Nomen et omen! with more vanity than good taste, "I am so martial, on ass's skin. It consists of Torty books, each of sixteen In the sanctum of the cathedral is a wooden image of that when I look in the glass I am frightened at myself." pages; and comprises the whole of the Old Testament, the Scandinavian god, Thor: an idol which I had fancied The prince's features are not so regular, nor is his ex(except the books of Kings, of Nehemiah, and Ezra,) had ceased to exist upwards of a thousand years; nor pression so open, as his father's: at the same time, there with a large portion of the Apocrypha; several books of did I know that it had survived the dawn of civilisation. is something pleasing in his appearance. He returned Josephus's antiquities, and the whole of his Jewish wars. To this rudely carved log, human sacrifices were offered the day before yesterday from St. Petersburg in a frigate, It contains the interesting and well known passage re- on this very spot. The ceremony with which a traveller which is now riding gracefully on the tranquil bosom of garding our Saviour, which alone would render it a is introduced to this block of wood might induce the the bay before my window. Her colours are flying in valuable relic. The version of the Psalms differs from belief that the dark shadows of Thor and Odin, or honour of the king, who is going on board in half an our own, but I cannot say to what extent. Of the books their brethren Brahma and Boodh, where still spread hour; the humbler shipping obey the command; and the of the New Testament, it contains the Evangelists, the over this Christian land. It is singular that such a relic water is teeming with northern galleys, full of groups Acts, and all the epistles of St. John, St. Peter, and St. of superstition should be found in a country so firmly dressed in all the variety of Scandinavian costume. The James; but none of those of St. Paul. Strange as it devoted to the Lutheran faith; and where, though all re- Norse, who have no love for the king imposed on them, may appear, this singular manuscript ends with a treatise ligions are tolerated, an acknowledgment of the confes- suggested, when I was in Christiania, that Oscar had on magic, and a gilded picture of the arch enemy of our sion of Augsburg is demanded from every candidate for gone to solicit the sanction of Nicholas to his future sucrace. From this circumstance it is sometimes called civil office. The great opulence of this temple is cited by cession. If so, a striking proof is afforded of conscious "Codex Diaboli." The Codex Giganteus was taken by Adam, an ecclesiastical historian of Bremen, as an ex-dependence. The Swedes say his visit was one of cuGustavus Adolphus from a Benedictine convent at Prague. ample of the wealth which naval power never fails to riosity alone. He wished to see the finest capital in the Its date, though involved in doubt, is attributed to the secure. He says that it was entirely ornamented with world. thirteenth century. gold; and that the people were in the habit of assembling The legislative assembly of the country is formed of there in large numbers to worship the statues of Thor, four estates: the nobles, priests, citizens, and peasants, Woden, and Fricca.* duly elected by their respective bodies. A bill may Not far from Upsala is the far-famed iron mine of originate with any one, but it must be sent simultaDannemora, that yields the finest ore in Europe; the neously to the other three, to ensure freedom of debate whole of which is put in requisition for England. It is and vote. The king has a casting vote and a perpetual interesting to remark how every thing of every kind veto.

The second manuscript is of a different character. It is a treatise on the various diseases to which the human frame is liable, with a drawing of each case; and purports to have been written between the years 1349 and 1412, during the prevalence of a plague in which the writer performed sundry wonderful cures.

Under the library is a museum, enriched by Gustavus seeks England as a mart. Bullocks in the wildest parts The Swedes have a sufficiency of titles to compensate the Third with paintings and antiques during his sojourn of Russia are killed to supply her with tallow. The for the lack of those distinctions in the sister kingdom of in Italy: but the collections of the north are very poor, lobsters and herrings of Norway are exported, without Norway. There, only three peers exist; here, the succompared with those of Italy or France, or even England. the reserve of a single fish, to contribute to London's cession of every son to the nominal rank of his father Not far from Stockholm is the town of Upsala, famous Billingsgate. And the steel-yielding iron of Sweden, has created a swarm of half starved nobles who would for its university, in which the great Linnæus was a instead of being purchased for the proximate army of not dishonour the palace of the Great Mogul, where student, and afterwards a professor. In the cathedral is Russia, is advantageously exported to the distant shores some thousands of kindred bodies might be found. There a simple tablet on the ground with the inscription "Ossa of England. Iron and copper abound in great quantities are four orders of knighthood; those of the Seraphim, the Caroli à Linne." Such an epitaph, like that Napoleon throughout Sweden. The only limit to the production Sword, the Polar Star, and of Vasa; which are distincoveted* and Howard obtained, is infinitely superior to of these metals seems to be assigned by an enactment guished by blue, yellow, black, and green ribands respecthe overwrought eulogies whose palpable falsity too often which, by protecting timber, is intended to guard against tively. The first is confined to royal blood and twentydishonours the marble and the memory of those whom a too rapid destruction of the forests. Swedish iron is four of the highest nobles; the second to naval and they would immortalise. especially valuable because, the ore being smelted with military officers; and the fourth to those who have disThis was the spot were Christina threw off the royal wood instead of coal, the metal is partially carbonated, tinguished themselves in science or commerce; while diadem, and selfishly deserted a country devoted to her and therefore with less difficulty converted into steel, the third is open as a reward for every species of merit. person and her reign. It is the fashion to admire this which is only a purer carbonate of iron. The peculiarity The population of Sweden is estimated at three milqueen in all she said and did, but especially in the phi- of the mine of Dannemora consists in its being open. lions; that of Norway at a million and a half. In the losophy that enabled her, in the prime of life, to renounce There is one such, I remember, at St. Austle in Corn- former country the nobles amount to eleven thousand. the splendour of a throne. I am sadly heterodox. In wall. A series of fearfully deep and irregular fissures As in France before the revolution, the aristocracy is too Christina and in Charles the Twelfth I see more to extends over a surface of about half a mile, while mounds large to be either powerful or rich; hence it can offer no blame than to approve. Each was actuated by selfish- appear in every direction formed of ore, pyrites, and check to the influence of the crown. Yet the Swedes are ness and vanity, and each sacrificed to personal gratifi- scoria. The greatest depth attained is said to be two liberal in their ideas, and at all times free in the exprescation the welfare of Sweden. A determination not to hundred fathoms; the same as in the Cornish mine sion of them. The press is under a very moderate cenmarry; a peevish reluctance to receive the reiterated Dalkooth. Thus here, as there, the " orange rind" is sorship. General satisfaction with the government and solicitations of the states; a desire to indulge her favourite scarcely pierced. At Fahlun there is a large copper universal contentment prevail. This may be attributed, studies; and a distaste for the trouble of governing; mine that has been visited by all the kings of Sweden, in a certain degree, to the scantiness of population comwere the motives which influenced the queen to an act whose names are inscribed in a book presented to the pared with the extent of land: for, though the soil is that might have involved her country in all the troubles traveller. A hundred and eighteen feet below ground is poor, hands can always find employment. Consequently, of a disputed succession and civil war. We cannot love a room called the banqueting apartment, where the king beggars are never seen: men are not driven to the highthe Swede, bound to her country by the ties of kindred was wont to be received and regaled. To the shame of ways for a subsistence; and discontent has no time to blood and royal lineage, who could exclaim, "Enfin me the nation be it recorded, that the name of Gustavus spring up in minds constantly occupied. voici libre et hors de Suéde, où j'espère bien ne rentrer Adolphus, inscribed by himself on the wall, has been jamais:" nor can we admire the philosophy which per-effaced; while in its stead, those of Carl Johan and Oscar, mitted a weak repentance of an act so deliberately per- the present king and heir apparent, stand conspicuous in formed. characters of gold.

Regarding her external relations, I will only observe that Sweden looks to England for protection against the encroaching power of Russia. The mouse quakes, because her enemy has only to stretch forth her paw. A In Charles the Twelfth the king was lost in the gene- At Adelfors, in Smoland, there is a mine yielding a Russian standard already waves on the islands which ral. He did nothing for his country but exhaust her sulphate of gold, in which native gold is sometimes run close along the Swedish coast. Nicholas has only to finances and spread the terror of her arms. Like Alex-found. I am not aware that silver in an uncombined wish, and unless England thunder "No!" to seize. Such ander, he was the wonder and the torch of the world. state has ever been discovered here, as it has at Kongs- a reflection would under any circumstances be painful to A voluntary exile from his capital, and almost from his berg in Norway. It is generally extracted from galena, fecling minds; but to the Swedes, it is doubly so, because country, he never saw the former after the campaign an ore of lead. The country abounds with granite and they have always gloried in their naval prowess: a boast [that immediately succeeded his coronation. Ever fight- porphyry of a fine and beautiful texture. The latter is which has been handed down from early generations. ing, flying, or recruiting, he neither knew, nor suffered brought chiefly from the mountain of Sweccher, and Even in the time of Tacitus they are spoken of as his officers to know, repose; and the civil government specimens elegantly wrought are exposed for sale by all" Scated on the very ocean," and possessing a naval was necessarily neglected by a sovereign who commanded the lapidaries of Stockholm. force. This continued to increase till the eleventh cenhis chancellor to be always "booted and spurred." Yesterday, on my return from the king's country tury, when being the first maritime nation in Europe, I know this opinion militates against many early pre-summer house at Rosendal, which is worth a visit only the honour was assigned to them of framing the nautical judices; but my conviction is that the historians of on account of a magnificent porphyry vase that it con- code; which was first written at Wisby in the isle of Sweden have as much overrated Christina and Charles tains, (said to be the largest in the world,) I met his Gothland. the Twelfth, as those of England have Mary Queen of majesty and the prince in a carriage drawn by six milk- So much for politics. I turn to a theme of higher inScots and Charles the First; both of whom richly merited white horses. When one reflects that he is the only terest; a subject that will occupy the enlarged capacity punishment though not death. The self-same principles European sovereign who has raised himself by his talents of glorified spirits when kings and kingdoms are no more. brought Charles the First of England to the scaffold, and from the rank of a private individual; and that he is the In my travels through Norway, I found that every family only one of all the great characters to whom the French had a psalter and a prayer-book; but not always a bible. revolution gave birth, who still retains his exalted posi- The Norse are strict in the observance of forms, yet, geneWhen the writer of these letters was at St. Helena, tion; in the present dearth of genius among crowned rally speaking, a suspicion is excited, one scarcely knows he was informed that Bonaparte, before he died, ex-heads, and while the ambiguous result of a second revo-how, that they regard more the "outward visible sign" pressed a wish to have his initial N. engraven on his lution is yet pending, one cannot but feel that Bernadotte than the cultivation of the "inward spiritual grace." tombstone. is really a great man. His manners are affable, his In Sweden a spirit of enquiry has been excited. The At Agra, in the northwest of Hindoostan, a magnifi- countenance handsome, and his figure commanding, bible is received with avidity. The king was present at cent mausoleum, such as Europe cannot boast, is erected though not tall. He maintains but little state, and in the last meeting of the society, and they of "Caesar's over the ashes of the great king, conqueror, and lawgiver, household" boast that they serve the King of kings. Akber, whose name stands in solitary grandeur, the simple but impressive panegyric of his fame.

* Thursday, Wednesday, and Friday, are named after The premier is no less known in England than in Sweden these deities. as one who is deeply interested in all that concerns the

progress of true religion. He clasped my hand, and rits with anchovies, or something equally piquant, to commodation in the vessel; and I was obliged to put up held it for nearly a quarter of an hour in earnest conver-stimulate the appetite before entering the dining room. with the captain's berth, a crib without a cabin. Au sation. Amongst other things he said with great fervour, This is a vile system, equally bad in theory and English gentleman ocupied the opposite mattress. The "Mon ami l'évêque m'a ecrit beaucoup pour vous; mais practice. camero spoke scarcely a word of French; but, fortu

ici, vous n'avez pas besoin d'une lettre de recommenda. Every facility is afforded to a traveller through Swe-nately, one of our companions, a professor of Helsingfors, tion; c'est assez d'être un Anglais et d'avoir regard à la den. He is scarcely reminded by queries regarding a the capital of Finland, was able and willing to act as cause de la bible." It is remarkable that, with the ex-passport that he is in a foreign land: but on his arrival my interpreter; and evinced additional kindness by ception of a few Moravians and a sect to whom the name at the capital he is greeted with a paper containing a giving me letters to a count and countess, both Fins, of "Readers" is applied, because they have no specific formidable list of queries, enough to make him suspect whose houses are on the road through Finland to St. form of worship and only read and pray, there are himself. After stating his name, nation, and profession; Petersburg.

scarcely any dissenters in the country. It is difficult to his age, religion, and residence; he is asked, "In the In the morning of the 26th we crossed the gulf of account for this peculiarity, because all forms of Chris-service of what country are you? What year and what Bothnia, and at five in the afternoon threw out an an. tian faith are equally tolerated here, though Jews are month did you leave home? To what place did you chor off the islands of Aland, where the first Russian permitted to reside only in the three largest towns. first go? Thence to what place? The first place of custom house is stationed. The ancients justly reTo-day I have received a visit from one of the most your arrival in Sweden? By land or sea? (One might garded this sea as sluggish and almost stagnant; but we intelligent foreigners I have met. Count de Voyna is the have thought their geography would have led to a cer- need not give equal credence to their popular opinion, Austrian ambassador to the Swedish court. During his tain inference on this point.) Where do you now intend that the sun rose out of the top of the gulf; and that they visit, England was the topic of conversation. He is to go? Your business here? How long shall you stay not only heard the sound of his sinking again into the quite enamoured of her public institutions, and the liberal at Stockholm? How long in Sweden? State your ac- waters, but that they also saw, on very clear days, the opinions of her sons. Her tenure of India, with all the quaintances and addresses, &c." The preparations for forms of his horses crowned with halos of glory!" civil and political arrangements dependent on it, is the a Russian tour are expensive and troublesome. Nobody In arranging for passports at Stockholm I had great object of his highest admiration. He delights in her seems to know accurately what is necessary. I believe trouble; for no one seems to know exactly what is re literature and in her poetry. Yet, notwithstanding this I have at length obtained the documents required; but quired. Forms are multiplied for the sake of the pockets high opinion of our country and her moral emanations, it has not been without numerous petty vexations. of a tribe of hungry, ill-paid secretaries; and there, there are some things he strongly reprobates. "I can. One of the greatest annoyances to which a traveller is as in England, I heard that the rigidity of the Russian not," said he," approve by any means your social laws. subjected arises from the dirt of the people. They are custom and police was unparalleled in Europe. ExYou are proud and haughty towards each other, and to-insufferably unclean. After travelling some days with pectations grounded on such information could not well wards all. However intellectual, however fascinating in a Swedish count, I had to tell him three times that some be exceeded by the result. They might, however, be conversation, if a man belong not to a particular coterie, dirt in patches on his cars had proved an eye-sore ever pleasingly nullified; and such was the case: for, inhe is not a desirable acquaintance. This lord has not since we had been together, before I could effect the re-stead of a search, I was invited, with other passengers, received him, or that lady has frowned on him; or he has moval of the offensive, but kindred, matter. The houses to take coffee on shore with the superintending officer; not admittance to Almack's. Such a disaster is sufficient also are filthy. I have two rooms for ten shillings a and had an opportunity of observing the manners of a to keep a man of merit out of view. I cannot approve week, under the roof of an aged demoiselle who keeps a Finnish family. For this kindness we are all indebted the system. Rank, birth, and office are mere names. It restauration :" and I cannot persuade the maids that they to the professor, who was a friend of the custom-master. is mind that makes the man. I have a few private friends ought to sweep the floor every day; or, at least every The hospitality of our host detained us a couple of hours in England; but they are all among the country gentle- other day. They are content to allow the mass to ac-after which we resumed our course. Passing many I hope to realise my ardent wish of visiting your cumulate for a week before they think right to remove islands well wooded, and some a little cultivated, we country in the ensuing year; and as soon as I can obtain it. Rooms cannot be obtained in Stockholm for less arrived at Abo at one in the afternoon of Friday, the release from public duties, I shall retire into the country. than a week. Even at the hotels, it is necessary to en- 27th of August. The distance from Stockholm is about and there my intercourse shall be with minds, however gage them for that term, though the traveller occupy two hundred and sixty miles. clad, from whose stores I may enrich my own." In this then only for a night. strain he spoke at length. It was gratifying to listen to

men.

The population of the islands, which form almost a To a dabbler in languages, the observation of eastern continued line between the two shores, is calculated at his just encomium on what I hold so dear. It was in-words in this northern tongue affords matter for curious only six thousand. They live by fishing, and by the teresting to hear a man, the representative of the third speculation. The Swedish, in its origin, we know to be carriage of wood to the two neighbouring countries sovereign of Europe, place mind and mental treasures purely Teutonic; yet there is a mixture, though scanty, The Fins and Laps have a common origin, as their fa above rank and its mere contingencies. I endeavoured of Sclavonic words that strike harmoniously on an tures, form, and language indicate. Throughout t to persuade him that those amongst us, whose sentiments eastern ear. he would value, held opinions on this point coinciding countries, those are denominated Laps who live, as In writing this letter the train of my ideas has been mades, with and on their rein-decr; and those are Fes with his own. Time stole away rapidly during this in- broken by repeated interruptions. The king has passed who support themselves exclusively by fishing. In our terview, which was curtailed by a man entering to re- under my windows. The guns have been firing. The employment of this last Teutonic word, we use the mind me of an engagement. As we parted, the ccunt hurras of the sailors on the yards of the frigate, and a whole for a part; and thus lose the clue which the word put into my hand a letter of introduction to the Austrian noisy buzz of voices in the town, have served to dissipate fin affords to the generic appellation of a race of fiste: ambassador at St. Petersburg, whom he represented as my thoughts and to make me forget much that I had one of the few kindred spirits he has met. Count de wished to say. I have taken a berth on a Finnish packet, men. Voyna is a Pole by birth. His person and manners which sails for Finland to-morrow. The Norwegian its principal street. This is said to have been, before a Abo is situated on the river Acura that flows throngh are peculiarly engaging. He talks English like an cariole, bought at Bergen, has been sold here for nearly late dreadful conflagration of its wooden buildings, the Englishman; and tells me he is equally at home in two thirds of the cost price, and will be replaced at Abo feeling of his country, and of the sufferings and moral in a country where every word spoken is unintelligible and was the capital of Finland till the emperor of Ras French, German, and Swedish. He spoke with great by a caléche. I have now been travelling so long alone largest street in Europe; a statement I repeat with doubt of its veracity. The town is of great antiquity; degeneracy of his countrymen. They bear reluctantly, to me, that I am not sorry to have met an English gen- sia determined to raise Helsingfors to that rank, on a he says, the yoke of Russia, which has smothered but tleman who is going to St. Petersburg and will be my count of its being a hundred and forty-six miles nearer not quonched the fire of their spirits: at the same time, companion. the illiberality of her political system has exercised a pernicious influence over the expansion of the public mind, and fostered hatred in the hearts it has enslaved.

LETTER XI.

To this interesting individual I was introduced by Lord Blomfield, the British plenipotentiary, for whose Kyrola, in Finland, 1st September, 1830. very obliging attentions I am indebted to the letters of At five in the afternoon of Wednesday, the 25th of Lord Aberdeen and my friend Mr. Money, the consul at August, I embarked on a packet which carried me across Venice. Lord Blomfield is beloved by every class of the gulf of Bothnia to the shores of Finland. persons in Stockholm. There is but one opinion regarding him. His kind and affable manners ensure affection, while his moral excellence and public character command esteem.

to his own residence. The fire of Abo afforded a favor able pretext for removing the university and the popu lation of the town is now reduced to about ten thousand souls. There is a floating market here, like that of Stockholm, for the sale of vegetables. The women stand knee-deep in water; and a little parapet, raised on the bed of the river, serves to secure the market from being carried away by the stream, while it affords a dry walk for the customers.

As we sailed down the bay, the view of Stockholm was highly picturesque. Her Grecian buildings, her The cathedral is an old building of brick, in 1 rade domes and spires; the shipping in front, and the forests style of architecture, without a single external decora behind; above, the clear blue sky; and beneath, the tion. It is under repair, and the masons would not I hardly know whether to consider it a misfortune or azure mirror which reflected the whole; all united to suffer me to enter to see the only object of historical inan advantage that I have no books giving an account form a coup d'œil such as Stockholm alone presents. terest in the interior, namely, the tomb of Catherine, of the scenery, statistics, and government of the king. Our party was large, and many friends had come on the wife of the unfortunate Eric XIV. The observ doms of Scandinavia. On the one hand, perhaps I re-board to prolong the parting hour and inake an eternity tory is quite modern, as yet scarcely finished. It is in main ignorant of some things I might learn; on the of moments. Their boats, rowed by women whose the sixty first degree of latitude, and is the most northern other, I imbibe no prejudices. In a foreign country, tender nature became the touching office, kept alongside in the world. It stands on a high rock, commanding conversation with the natives is probably the most cor- to carry back the tearful freight. At length the sad an uninterrupted view; but such a one as satisfies al hour arrived. Tears, real or feigned, were shed in first sight. The surrounding country is a mass of baren self to the utmost, particularly in intercourse with abundance; and eyes only half suffused would have been granite resembling the environs of Delhi. Finnish and intelligent men at the tables of the ambassador and thought to indicate a want of sympathy, had they not Indian rock are much alike, and equally uninteresting. Count Rosenblad, to whom I am much indebted. When been taught, on such occasions, to speak unutterable There is one peculiarity in this prospect. The eye is not otherwise engaged, I have dined at the noblemen's things. In a minute the doffed hats were reinstated; arrested by an extraordinary number of small wind club, to which foreign gentlemen are admitted. Dinner the handkerchiefs restored to the pockets; the women mills, which lead one to suppose that every person is a meal soon despatched, and the company often dis-rowed hard; sorrow gave place to mirth; and "Voila, grinds his own corn; for they are evidently not reperses as early as five o'clock; so that one sees little of le rôle est fini!" Evident insincerity threw an air of quired, as in Holland, to drain the fields of superfluous any body in the ordinary course of a party. A fashion ridicule over the farce. A Finnish camero, or counsellor water. prevails throughout the North of taking a glass of spi-of state, with his family, had engaged the only good ac

rect source of information. Of this I have availed

my.

It is a happy circumstance that man is so constituted

attached to a nation which has the power to protect them against foreign enemies.

that the only charm required to attach him to any proximation of his face to mine terminated in a salute country is that it should be his own. The Fins would of my right check, and then the left, which astonished not exchange their country and their servitude for the me not a little. Perhaps I felt less grateful than in duty At an early hour on Monday morning we continued freedom of England, much less for the romantic hills of bound; for the good man's chin, not "newly reaped," our journey. The only towns on the road are Borgo Norway or of Switzerland. Their patriotism has been "Was like a stubble field at harvest-home," and Lovisa. Eighteen miles on this side of the latter the theme of admiration among all nations and all ages. is the river Alberfors, the boundary between old and A Roman historian, speaking of their entire destitution and wounded me sensibly! I had not anticipated such new Finland, or that conquered by Peter the Great and of arms, horses, and settled abodes; of their hardships, a welcome to Finland. that ceded by Sweden in consideration of Russia's guatoils, and dangers; concludes with observing that they As my English companion was travelling to St. Pe-rantee of Norway and the succession of Oscar to the provide for their infants no better shelter from wild tersburg, we joined purses and bought the best of two throne of Bernadotte. In Russian, or Old Finland, the beasts and storms, than a covering of branches twisted caleches offered to our choice, for eighty banco dollars, peasants wear a cloak or caftan, sometimes called a together. "This," he says, "is the resort of youth: or six pound fourteen shillings sterling. It is a misera-khalaat, resembling in form, as well as name, the eastthis the receptacle of age. Yet even this way of life is ble conveyance, and the repairs have given us much ern dress. It is tied round the waist by a ceinture of in their estimation happier than groaning over the trouble; but as we require it only to carry us to St. scrge. The hat is broad-brimmed; the trowsers are of plough; toiling in the erection of houses; subjecting Petersburg, a distance of four hundred and twenty linen; and the boots excessively wide and cumbersome. their own fortunes and those of others to the agitations miles, our hope was that it might last till we reached our The men could not possibly be mistaken for civilised of alternate hope and fear. Secure against men, secure final destination. We travelled all night, and on the beings. The hair is sometimes in youth bright auagainst the gods, they have attained that most difficult morning of Sunday, the 29th ultimo, arrived at Hel- burn, and generally in maturer years of a light brown point, not to need even a wish." singfors, where we passed the remainder of the day. colour; but always disgustingly dirty. Here, as in The contrast between Finland and Sweden is very The road is good; and the country flat, like Sweden, Scandinavia, it seldom, even in age, falls off. The men striking. I could fancy myself in Asia. The peasants but of a wilder character; the foreground being chiefly wear it quite covering the ears, and as long in front, but wear long loose robes of a course woollen manufacture, rocky, with forests in the distance. The horses are shaved off the back of the head. Their necks are left secured by a silken ceinture like the kummerbund of the small. They go at a full gallop; and the velocity with bare, and their faces are untonsured. Less pleasing Mussulmans. Their beards are thick and long. Their which a carriage generally moves down hill cannot fail objects are not often presented to the eye. The women dress, except the European hat, resembles that of Beo- to try the nerves. We hired a coachman for five pounds wear their hair fastened at the top in a conical roll, parries from Cabul. Two churches in Abo, with By- from Abo to St. Petersburg. He can talk only the lan- sometimes ornamented with a piece of coloured cloth. zantine domes, remind one that, though the mass of the guage of the country; and when my companion calls It is curious to observe the various modes which nations people now profess the Lutheran faith, they are sub-out to him, which he does repeatedly, and always with have adopted of dressing the hair. The Saracens wore it jected to a government which, till lately, acknowledged increased energy, to drive slower, the man conceives long, having "faces as the faces of men (that is, unas its ecclesiastical head the eastern patriarch of Con- that we are urging him to greater speed, and flogs the shaven,) and hair as the hair of women." A Chinahorses more and more, till the weak fabric of the car-man cuts the hair off the rest of the head, but wears it stantinople. Their cupolas are shaped like those of a Mahomedan mosque, and painted with the favourite co. riage swings fearfully from side to side. However, on the scalp, where it is cherished till it will form three lour of the followers of Hussun and Hussein. Nay, with or without danger, we have been making rapid pro. cues, substantially plaited and reaching to the ground. more! a crescent glitters on the top of the dome; and gress, and as nothing is to be gained by delay, that is The Hindoo holds only one cue orthodox, and that a the delusion would be complete, if the emblem of Ma- what we desire. Travelling in Finland is superior to, small one, by which he hopes to be dragged up into homedanism were not surmounted by a cross, which and cheaper than, that of any country in the world. heaven. The rest of the head is submitted to a weekly proclaims the triumph of Christianity over the fallen The cost, including every thing except carriage and tonsure. A Catholic priest, on the other hand, shaves coachman, is one shilling per horse for ten miles Eng-only the little spot on the crown, where the Hindoo allish, or less than two pence half-penny per mile for two lows the hair to grow. The Mussulman, inverting the horses. There is no need of an additional horse for a Russian mode, and adopting a style peculiar to himself, forebud, as in Sweden, since horses are ready at every shaves the upper half of the head and preserves a semistation and the change occupies but little time. circular tuft of hair behind.

crescent.

Few carriages are to be seen in Abo. The droshki is the commonest vehicle. A bench, across which two persons can sit, comme à cheval, one behind the other, is placed on four low wheels; over which a broad circular board is fixed to secure the riders from dirt. The We passed several gentlemen's seats, and smaller We reached Frederickshamn by night, having accomdriver is in immediate contact with the horse's tail. well-looking houses. Such campagnes are seldom met plished a hundred and seventy wersts, or a hundred and Over the head of the animal is a singular contrivance with in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. In Zeeland, fourteen miles, from Helsingfors. This, like almost to supply the place of a bearing rein. A thick piece of I saw not one respectable house between Copenhagen every town in the north of Europe, has some tale of fire wood, the extremities of which are fastened to the end and Elsineur; scarcely one between Helsingborg and connected with it. Frederickshamn was destroyed by a of the shafts, rises in a circular form two feet above his Christiania; none between Bergen and that capital; and conflagration in August of last year: it is still sadly decars. From the top of this a rein is attached to each only two on the road to Stockholm. As the higher solate, only a part having been rebuilt. Since, in this side of the bit. The force applied to bear him up is orders here are richer, so the peasantry are more de-state, it offers no attraction to the traveller, we started consequently a perpendicular instead of (as with us,) a pressed, than those in Scandinavia. Their subdued ex. again at seven the following morning. diagonal. He can scarcely trip, or if he do, he must re-pression of countenance and the mildness of their man. About two-and-twenty miles hence is the quarry of cover himself, with the assistance of such a mechanical ners accord ill with the idea of ferocity which we are Peterlax, from which pillars are procured for the church power. The apparatus appears awkward at first, but the apt to associate with large mustachios and shaggy of St. Isaac, now building at St. Petersburg. They are eye soon becomes habituated to it. Most of the droshkis Leards. I am inclined to think their state of vassa lage fifty-six fect in length and nineteen in circumference. If have only one horse, while those of a superior order are differs but little from that of slavery. I speak, however, the whole structure be in proportion to these colossal furnished with two. The second, however, is intended without sufficient knowledge; as inability to communi- pillars, the edifice, when completed, will be of enormous solely for ornament. It is harnessed on the near side, cate with those around and an entire destitution of dimensions. The granite of this quarry is softer and and made to canter with its neck bent, not ungracefully, books leave no source of information open to me except therefore more easily worked than any other in the

in a curve towards the left knee. The shaft horse draws careful observation. the carriage and trots while the furieux capers. In Finland, as in Sweden, the steeples are generally With the kind assistance of the Swedish consul-gene-built apart from the churches. Were these erected on Feral we contrived to get through the tedious formalities some neighbouring hill, one might suppose the object to of the pass-port office by noon the following day. I be an extension over the whole scattered parish of the joined his family circle in the evening in order to see circle within which the bell is audible: but they are something of Finnish manners. Such opportunities are frequently on lower ground, and always quite close to not to be lost, though they are not always of an agreeable the building, the top of whose pent roof is sometimes naturae as the want of some medium of verbal commu-higher than that of the steeple.

country.

brought us, at five in the afternoon of yesterday, to ViA hundred and ten worsts, or seventy-three miles, borg. The intermediate country is woody and interesting. The road, over a hard silicious soil, with large fragments rests forests of small firs. The approach to Viborg is of granite, on either side, winds through successive fopicturesque. The immediate access to the town, which is fortified and said to have been used as a military station in the thirteenth century, is by two wooden bridges, nication renders the interview frequently nothing more Helsingfors is a handsome modern city. The public of unusual length, thrown across an arm of the sea. than that word literally imports. In the present instance, buildings are ornamented with a profusion of pillars The houses are large and handsome, with green roofs. however, the consul talked French, and gave me much and pilasters, chiefly of the Corinthian order. None of The churches, like those before mentioned, have green information. After leaving him, I had a curious meeting these are of stone; but the stucco is well worked and cupolas, and are surmounted with a St. Andrew's cross with a merchant who exchanged my Swedish for Fin-covered with a thick coat of colouring. Additions con- over a crescent. An excellent inn, the only good one I nish and Russian money. He spoke nothing but these tinue to be made to the town, which will soon rank have seen since leaving Hamburg, is in the hands of three languages, and we had a good deal of business to among the finest of the northern capitals. At Abo there a plausible Italian, who kept us in good humour while transact. A spectator would have been amused by ob- is an inn called "La Societé :" but here, as in most he filled our mouths and picked our pockets. It was serving the expedients to which we mutually had re- of the towns in the North, travellers are conducted to an quite a treat to meet a man with whom we could con. source. My little knowledge of Swedish was drawn on indefinite sort of an establishment, half private and half verse, Conscious of his fascinating powers, he con to the utmost, and served in good stead of greater pro- coffee-house, where little comfort is to be found, trived to detain us till the following morning by delayficiency for at last, what was required was done; and more could not be desired.

The Russian government liberally allows the whole ing the arrival of the podaroshne, or order for postrevenue of Finland, small as it is, to be expended within horses, without which no traveller can pass the Russian The worthy camero, our fellow passenger from Stock- the limits of the country. The Fins have a council of frontier, or obtain horses when past. Viborg being the holm, left Abo an hour or two before us. I had won his their own, and none but a native can fill any office of last town in Finland where an officer of sufficient au affection by telling stories in a jargon of German and trust. At first, I am told, they regarded their annexa-thority resides, it was incumbent on us to secure this Swedish, mixed up with French, to his little girl, Ac- tion to Russia as a hardship; probably because they re-document before proceeding further. The old style be. cordingly, he came to me in the yard of the inn, and, menbored that Peter the Great had conquered a portion comes current here, according to which my letter taking off his hat, made a profound bow, which I re- of their country, which was thereby dismembered. But should be dated (20th August,) 1st September, 1830. turned in kind and courtesy. Approaching nearer, he the kindness of the emperor has now conciliated them: It was past seven this morning when we left Viborg took my hand and uttered sundry incomprehensible and so long as he treats them with consideration, there Our carriage, which had given daily symptoms of in words. To these I replied by bows. A further ap- can be no doubt that it is an advantage to the Fins to be creasing debility, and had been supported from stage to

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