press them well together, cover the join with wax to make a knob, to which the petals are fastened; this knob must be rather a large one, For the petals, cut six strips of Fig. 3 in pale green wax, press one firmly on to each white petal from the base upwards, and, being careful it is in the centre, pass each petal through arrowroot; take some pink color (dry), and rub it down the centre of each petal, softening it off lightly on each side. (You will find some flowers very much more colored than others.) Down the centre of each petal make a deep indentation with a pin, turn the petal on the other side, and on each side of the ridge formed by the first mark; press the pin firmly down again, so that on the right side there shall be in the centre a deep dent, and a ridge on either side. With carmine (wet) paint down this middle stripe. To curl the edges of the petal, as in the illustration, rest the edge of each one on the forefinger of the left hand; roll the pin very firmly along the edge, which will stretch it. It must not be rolled the whole way along, but here and there. Then curl the ends of each petal backwards round the finger. For the dots observed in the flowers, roll up a little ball of wax, take it up on the end of the pin, hold it to a candle, and dot each petal with the warm wax. The dots must be smaller as they come towards the edge of the petal. Then cut several small spikes of double wax, and in the same way fasten them on all round the green strip. Then mix some color (wet)-carmine and vandyke brownmake it very thick, and with it color the tips of all these little spikes, and also all the dots you have made over the petals. To make up the flower, first place on the three larger petals in a triangle, then the three smaller ones in the same way; press them firmly on to the knob, and work them with the pin. Do not let the stamens stand straight up, but bend each a little back towards the petals. Fig. 6 is the green leaf; but, unless the flower is to be placed in a specimen glass alone, you will not need it. The leaf grows a little way down the stem, and would only be in the way if you wished to group the lily amongst other flowers. Cover the stalk of the flower with pale green. 6 loops on the needle, and to" work back" take Work 2 rows, decreasing a stitch at the bethe wool on the needle and bring it through the ginning of each; the rows must now be kept last loop of the 6; then take up the wool and straight at the beginning; but at the end of bring it through 2 loops at a time until there is every 7th row one stitch is to be decreased to only one left on the needle. correspond with the other side. 2d row Take up the wool and bring it through the last loop on the needle to form an ordinary chain-stitch; then put the needle into the 1st upright loop or rib of the 1st row and bring the wool through, when there will be 2 loops on the needle; put it into the next upright stitch, and repeat until there are 6 loops on the needle; then, to increase a stitch, put the needle into the wool between the two last upright stitches, and bring the wool through as before; then put the needle into the last stitch and bring the wool through. Work back as the 1st row. 3d row-Make 1 chain, which will increase a stitch, and putting the needle into the 1st upright stitch, raise all the loops to the last; then increase as in the 2d row, and work back; the work will now be increased at both ends., When these 7 rows are worked 8 times, then decrease at the beginning and end of every fourth row until it is reduced to a point. The Ermine Spots.-Use the white wool doubled, leave an end, and make 10 chain stitches; then work a single stitch in the 1st chain-stitch to make it round; draw the wool through to fasten it. Place this loop on the tricot, and drawing the ends through to the wrong side, knot them together; then, with the black wool and a rug needle work an ordinary chain-stitch on the tricot and over the centre of the white loop, so as to attach them together. Repeat the spots as in the engraving. The Border.-Commence with the black and white wools at one end of the tricot, so as to crochet on the selvedge of it, and work a plain Repeat as the last row, until 36 rows in all row all round, making a stitch of black and are worked. This is for the back. Then work 8 rows of plain tricot, without increasing, by omitting the chain-stitch at the beginning of the rows, and putting the needle into the second upright loop: at the end of the rows also omit the increased stitch. To Shape the Right Front.-1st row-) -Put the needle into the 2d upright loop, and raise the loops until there are 34 on the needle; then work back. one of white alternately. Then commence at the right end, so as to work on the inner side and round the neck. 1st row-White wool, work 5 chain, miss 3 and 2 plain; repeat to the left end. 2d row-White. Work in the 5 chain; 1 plain, 4 treble, and 1 plain; then 1 chain, and, missing the 2 plain of the 1st row, repeat. The Outer Border.-This is worked separately, and afterwards sewed to the tricot. 2d row-Work as the last, but at the end of 1st row-Commence with the colored wool, the row take the two last stitches of the 34 to-make 6 chain, and raise 6 loops as in the 1st gether on the needle, and work them as one row of the centre; then work back until there stitch, so as to decrease it. are only two loops left, take the white wool and bring it through them. 3d and 4th rows as the 2d row. 5th row-Decrease at the beginning of the row by taking the 2d and 3d upright loops on the needle, and bringing the wool through both at the same time; raise the rest of the loops to the end, and work back. Work 6 rows plain without shaping, repeat the 5th row and 6 rows plain after it, 7 times more, that is, decreasing a stitch at the beginning of every 7th row; the left selvedge should be quite straight. Then, to shape the end, decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of every 4th row until it is reduced to a point. The Left Front.-1st row-Commence on the stitches of the back, leaving 12 of them for the back of the neck, and raise the rest as usual to the end; then work back. 2d row- -White. Make 3 chain-stitches for the edge, then put the needle between the two upright colored loops and bring the wool through in a loop; repeat until there are 6 on the needle. Work back until only 2 loops are left, and bring the colored wool through. 3d row-Colored wool. Make 3 chain for the edge, then put the needle in each of the 5 upright white loops, bringing the wool through as usual; when there are 6 loops on the needle, work back until there are only 2 loops; bring the white wool through. Repeat the two last rows until sufficient is made to go round the edge, leaving it full at the back to make it lie flat. The pelerine should fasten at the back with a cord and tassels, or it can be buttoned. EDITOR'S DEPARTMENT. DRESS VERSUS HEALTH. ture of what she in her ignorance took to be an hour-glass, but which proved to be the liver of a to be antagonistic?—when dress shall serve its law-by tight lacing, which latter had literally almost lady who had died from liver disease, brought on iul ends of comfort and ornament without violating the laws of life? It is mortifying that such numbers of women use every change of fashion to their own injury, running recklessly after some ignis fatuus of beauty which is half the time in their own fancy only. "We shall now have another class of diseases to deal with," said an experienced physician, when, years ago, the fashion charged from short waists to long. The pressure upon the lungs which had been multiplying cases of consumption, was now to be changed for pressure upon other organs as vital, varying the phases of suffering, but not, alas, diminishing the number of self-sacrificing victims. Do we ask why women are not strong and healthy? Mrs. R. B. Gleason, of the Elmira Water-cure, whose position, character and labors place her in the front rank of benefactors to her sex, uses in answer the anecdote of the lawyer who stated in court that he had seven reasons why his client did not appear; the first was that he was dead. When a woman dresses so tightly that every respiration is imperfect, and the most important vital organs are impeded in the performance of their sacred functions, she is half dead already; the other reasons why she is not strong and healthy are unnecessary to mention. And we all know that such dressing is the rule, and that which permits full and free respiration the exception. A "Corset Controversy" has been going on in one of the English lady's magazines for and against tight lacing; almost entirely for. The discussion arose from the case, which we published in THE LADY'S FRIEND at the time, of a young lady placed at a boarding-school where a seventeen inch waist was the rule, and suffering infinitely in being brought within that compass. It seems the only singularity of her case was that she complained of the torture. Others took it as much a matter of course as women in China do the bandaging process that insures them a beautiful stumpy foot. The same reasons exist in both countries. As they are ladies not necessitated to earn a living, they can do without health and strength-genteel beauty they must have. Among the number who in this controversy gave their experiences and opinions, only one spoke sensibly. cut her liver in two. The sight of this picture effectually cured BRISBANE of any desire for a waist smaller than the one Nature had given her. And surely, if the different parts of our body could perform their various functions properly in a smaller space than that in which they are placed, would not He, who in the beginning made everything perjeet knew the harm they do themselves by tight lacing, have created them in that smaller space? If girls surely they would desist. They may not feel the effects now, but wait till they arrive at a maturer family of poor, puny children, some of them perage. How many mothers have around them a haps crippled or deformed, and for which they have only themselves to blame, for having given way to ing! BRISBANE cannot help adding, in conclusion, the folly, to call it by no worse name, of tight lacthat she thinks if young ladies would devote a little more time towards learning how to make a home happy and to feed a family,' and a little less time to waists 'just one inch smaller,' we should hear less considering the ways and means of getting their of comfortless homes, and husbands driven to the club thereby, and also have fewer complaints of thing to remove pimples on the face' (both of which red noses, and not so many applications for "somecomplaints dance attendance on tight lacing)." Now are not ladies under a delusion-chasing an ignis fatuus of beauty in the shape of a slender waist? Is it fashionable? The Paris fashionplates do not authorize it. They are natural figures, drawn by artists who could not bring themselves to make a woman like a wasp. Gentlemen do not admire it. They gaze after it, as at a spectacle, but it is to wonder and to blame. Of course there are exceptions. As man is born of woman, a falsity in taste is liable to be handed down from mother to son; and we can nowhere find the head-quarters of this fashion but in the fancy of women. After all, the only harm in following fashion is in doing it slavishly-sacrificing to it as to an idol. What we want is more independence and selfrespect and reverence for our Maker, who has fashioned this temple of the body to do its work on earth in the best manner. CLUBS. The prices and premiums for next year will be pretty nearly the same as for the present year. Of Lists for simple Clubs, and for Premium Clubs, can course we shall have a new Premium Engraving. forming your lists, for those that commence early have a great advantage. We think the LADY's FRIEND needs only to be known to be admired, and we trust to our friends to say a good word for us in therefore be commenced at once. Do not delay in "BRISBANE has a vivid recollection of being shown a few years ago (the same subject being under discussion) by her father (a physician) the pic- I season. INDOOR PLANTS. THE WARDIAN CASE. A method of rearing ferns, now becoming very popular and applicable to ordinary sitting-rooms, is the Wardian case. A Wardian case consists of two boxes, one of which fits within the other. The form is a matter of no importance so long as the principal is applied. The outer case must be water-tight, with a tap at the bottom, so as to drain The inner case may be made of zinc or wood, the bottom perforated with holes, and of such dimensions as to leave a vacant space of an inch or two in depth beneath it when fitted with the outer case. The whole must be covered with a glass case corresponding to the shape of the box, but capable of being raised so as to admit air when required. The amount of beauty which may be displayed in the arrangement of a fernery of course depends on the taste of the proprietor, but even the worst and most incompletely arranged possess an indefinable charm which leads to better things. Among the best plants grown for the decoration of rooms is Aspidistra lurida variegata, a plant with long and rather handsome leaves. It is a good kind, and easy to obtain, living, moreover, a long time indoors. There is a variety of it with variegation in the leaf, and that looks charming when rooms are lighted up at night. It is necessary to have it grown into a fair development in a pit or green-off any water which may accumulate at the bottom. house before introducing it to the house. It is a subject that will grow in almost any soil, and, having leathery leaves, is well calculated to stand a drying atmosphere. When well developed, it is useful to stand singly on a table or pedestal of any kind, or, indeed, any isolated position; and the leaves, being smooth, may be sponged over with ease in a few minutes. Niphobolus exaltatus is the next on my list. This bold and graceful fern I have found very useful indoors, having preserved it in flourishing health in an entrance-hall for six months at a time. To grow such plants indoors perpetually is not quite possible, because of the fineness of their leaves, and the great difficulty or impossibility of removing the dust from them. But this fern is as easily grown and increased as any plant in existence, and flourishes in any warm house, particularly in a vinery; and a small stock of it for house decoration is very readily kept up. Having long and arching leaves, it is admirably suited for standing singly on a table, or for the centre of a group of flowering plants. In Paris, the decoration of houses with plants is carried out to a great extent, and well understood. Any person who enters a Paris nursery for the first time cannot fail to be struck with the number of young palms therein cultivated. Of all the plants used for the decoration des appartements the palms are the most useful and effective. Now, many palms are very dear, and many are very tender, and therefore it would not do to employ such in living rooms-at least, not so long as hardier and cheaper species can be found. The kinds most in use are the South European Chamærops humilis, the larger C. excelsa, and Corypha australis—all these being good, and the last a particular favorite; it is also the most hardy of all the palms used in this way, so that a young stock of it may be raised in a greenhouse or pit. I now conclude with a plant which I have lately observed to do better at all times than any other plant seen cultivated indoors; it is Aralia Sieboldii, a native of Japan, and a plant of great value for several reasons. It is nearly, if not perfectly, hardy. It is the finest of all plants for growing indoors at all seasons, and it is one of the best things that can possibly be used in what is called the subtropical garden. I have seen it during the past winter in sitting-rooms make fresh green leaves such as no other plant I know of would make in a like position, and it stands the drying air of the drawing-room with perfect impunity at all times. Large, bold, and handsome in leaf at the same time, it is therefore highly to be recommended to all who cultivate plants in the house. For that purpose it is better purchased in a comparatively young, or at all events simple-stemmed state, as in such conditions most "foliage plants" look better than when branched. If had in a fresh state, and with plenty of room for the roots in the pots, it will require no attention beyond watering for a long time. Dust may settle on it, to be sure; but being a large and smooth-leaved subject, that may be removed in a few moments with a moist sponge. For the flower-garden it is fine for grouping with other plants. New Publications. Beauty and the Beast. By Miss Thackeray, author of Dixie Cookery: or How I Managed my Table for Twelve Years. A Practical Cook-Book for Southern Housekeepers. By Mrs. Barringer, of North Carolina. Neat paper covers. Price 50 cents. Boston: Loring. For sale by G. W. Pitcher, 808 Chestnut Street, Philada. This is got up in the size and style of Mrs. Warren's popular books on household management, and is fitted, not for Southern housekeepers only, but for housekeepers everywhere, answering their purpose better than the larger, fuller works on cookery, Francatelli, for instance, as it contains simply what a family has need of, for necessity and for luxury. The recipes have the clearness and directness that only long practice, and the good sense that makes practice successful, can give. Ladies who do things themselves, make a royal road-the shortest cut to their object. Mind and conscience give effect to their work. Knowing the value of time and of money, they will not waste either, nor will their refined taste allow them to stop short of excellence. The preface states a fact which we have always been aware of, but others may not be: "There is a very mistaken notion at the North and West about the domestic life of SouthernersSouthern women, especially. "The common idea is, that we are entirely destitute of practical knowledge of household affairs. This is a great mistake. The contrary is true. "A Southern woman must know how to prepare any dish, for she finds no cooks made to order; they must be of her own training, in the minutest particulars of every department. "Northern housekeepers, in all the large towns and cities, do not have to depend on their own skill for the delicacies of every description that make up the dainties of the table; but we Southern housewives, even in our larger towns and cities, all do; and Northern visitors stand aghast at the amount of labor summoned up in the filling of our storerooms, and it is difficult to convince them that we ' trust these preparations to no one else. -- A Story of Doom-and other Poems. By Jean Ingelow. Boston: Roberts Brothers. For sale by G. W. Pitcher, 808 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. The poem that gives its name to this volume is a grand conception, not of the "Mighty pre-Adamites that walked the earth Of which ours is the wreck," but of those later humanities, sons of Adam, "giant folk" also, ruling the earth with might, not right. "How one must stride that will ascend the steps The part of the dragon is finely imagined and well sustained. We do not think that Miss Ingelow has anywhere shown more poetic power than in these weird glimpses of the world before the flood. "The Dreams that Came True" is in her very best vein of thought and expression. "The Nightingale Heard by the Unsatisfied Heart" reminds one of Shelley's Skylark. "Laurance" is a sweet domestic poem, touching with a master hand some of the finest chords of feeling. "Some narrow hearts there are And long restrained grow stern. But some there are From "Gladys and her Island:"- Which lets us hear the rhythm of that old verse, By virtue of a sense which lets us in To know its troubles ere they have been told, Receipts. GRAPE JAM. Heat grapes over water until the juice begins to flow; then put them on the fire and boil gently half an hour; when cool enough to handle, put them in a fine colander that will not let the seeds of the grape through. Press the pulp. through, weigh it, and allow one pound two ounces of sugar for every pound of grape; put the sugar and pulp together, and cook gently, stirring con stantly until it forms a thick jam. The wild grape will do for this preserve, but is not as good as the cultivated varieties, as it will not form a jam solid enough to retain the form when turned out. Green grapes make a very nice preserve prepared in this manner; put the jam in small moulds, and cover as directed in the currant jelly. GRAPE JELLY.-Take cultivated grapes hardly ripe, or green. If a light-colored jelly is desired, take them quite green. Boil gently until the juice is flowing and the pulp half dissolved. Cool them, and press them through a strong but thin bag, which will allow most of the dissolved pulp to pass through. Weigh the pulp, and allow one pound two ounces of sugar to one pound of fruit; boil the jelly until considerably reduced, and then add the sugar; boil with the sugar fifteen minutes, when it will be ready to put into moulds. FOR THE PRESERVES made in private families, the small white pots are the most convenient and the cleanest. Their small size is an advantage; for, once opened, the jam is used immediately, and does not spoil by exposure to the air. For tying down the pots, many persons use bladder or animal membrane, but it is expensive, and in some places difficult to obtain. Egged paper is a perfectly efficient substitute. To make this, take some stout, tough, flexible paper, and having beaten up some white of egg with a whisk, apply it with a brush to one side. When used, this paper should be damped on the anglazed side, tied down over the pots, and then, when dry, brushed over with beaten white of egg on the outer side. This makes the paper into a kind of parchment impervious to the air, and the preserves will keep as well as if tied over with any animal membrane. GRAPE WINE.-One gallon of grapes free from stems and blemishes, one gallon of soft boiled water: bruise the grapes, and let them stand with the water seven days without stirring; draw off the liquor, and to every gallon allow three pounds of loaf sugar; put it in a barrel, cover with a blanket, and close the bung as soon as the wine ceases to hiss. It will be fit for bottling in from six to nine months. A NICE ECONOMICAL HAIR-WASH-BLACK TEA.If you want to have a good head of hair, never apply to cosmetics; use nothing else to clean it but strong, cold black tea. Rub it into the roots every evening before going to bed, with a little sponge, and every morning do the same. I generally use it, and recommend it to all ladies desirous of having a voluminous head of hair. A. CHICKEN SALAD. Boil tender two good-sized chickens, skin and pick them free from bones, using only the white meat. Boil nine eggs one hour, and work them to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon, add half a pint of melted butter, and work into the egg and butter mustard, salt and pepper to suit the taste; it should be highly seasoned; mix the ingredients well, and add a small teacup of grated horseradish, and one pint of strong vinegar. Chop fine half a head of cabbage and as much blanched celery; mix the chicken, cabbage and celery together, and just before serving add the sauce. If celery can be had in abundance, use no cabbage; if celery cannot be obtained, use cabbage, with extract of celery. If neither cabbage nor celery is in season, use blanched lettuce. CROQUETTES.-These are a sort of mince-meat dumpling. Take some cold veal, chicken, lobster or tender cold beef, chopped fine. Put a half tablespoon of butter in a saucepan on the fire. When |