Fourth Narrowing.-1st round-Seam centre stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, * seam 3, knit 3; repeat from *; end with knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. knit 2d and 3d rounds-Seam centre stitch, 3, seam 3; repeat from *; end with knit 3. 4th, 5th, and 6th rounds-Seam centre stitch, knit 1, seam 2, * knit 3, seam 3; repeat from *; end with seam 2, knit 1. Fifth Narrowing-1st round-Seam centre stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, * seam 3, knit 3; repeat from *; end with knit 2 together, knit 1. 2d and 3d rounds-Seam centre stitch, knit 2, * seam 3, knit 3, repeat from *; end with knit 2. 4th, 5th, and 6th rounds-Seam centre stitch, knit 1, seam 1, * knit 3, scam 3, repeat from *; end with seam 1, knit 1. Sixth Narrowing.-1st round-Seam centre stitch, knit 1, seam 2 together, seam 2, * knit 3, seam 3; repeat from *; end with seam 2, seam 2 together, knit 1. 2d and 3d rounds-Seam centre stitch, knit 1, * seam 3, knit 3; repeat from *; end with seam 3, knit 1. Pattern.-1st, 2nd and 3rd rounds-Seam centre stitch, knit 4,* seam 3, knit 3; repeat from *; end with knit 4. 4th, 5th and 6th rounds-Seam centre stitch, knit 1,* seam 3, knit 3; repeat from *; end with seam 3, knit 1; repeat these 6 rounds twice, that is twelve rounds. If there be any difficulty in making out this stitch, the plain knit 1, seam 1, alternately ribbing, can be done; but the imitation brioche stitch, as in engraving, is much prettier. Be particular in ribbing always to seam above a seam stitch and knit above a knitted one. Ankle of Gaiter.-Twelve rounds of small ribbing. Mind and keep the centre stitch a seamed one. You will have 8 stitches on back needle, 20 on each of the others. Heel.-Prepare for heel by seaming centre stitch, and ribbing five times on to back needle. Rib the other 13 stitches from 1st side needle on another needle. Rib the 2d side needle to within 7 of the end. These 7 you must pass on the heel or back needle without knitting. You ought to have 22 stitches on back needle, 13 on each side one. The 22 heel loops are ribbed backwards and forwards for 14 turns or rows, slipping the first stitch of each row. Knit 4 rows plain. Cast off, but instead of breaking off the wool, put your needle into the loop left by wool, and, to Form the Foot, take up 9 loops along the right side of heel. Rib off front needle on the same six times. With a second needle, rib seven times and take up 10 stitches down left side. The foot is knitted backwards and forwards, three needles being now used, and two when you have fewer loops on. Count and see that you have 22 stitches on your first, 24 on your second needle The ankle, heel and foot of this gaiter is done in smaller ribbing, often called "imitation brioche stitch," and as it is not generally known, I here 1st row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 8 (the gusset, explain it, and would advise inexperienced knit-stitches are always plainly seamed on each side ters to try it before going on with the gaiter. of ribbing) rib; end with seam 9, knit 2. 2d row-Slip 1, knit 8, knit 2 together; rib; end with slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 8. 3d row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 7; rib; end with seam 8, knit 2. 4th row-Slip 1, knit 7, knit 2 together; rib; end with slip 1, knit 1, pull over, knit 7. and draw through. 5th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 6; rib; end with seam 7, knit 2. 6th row-Slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 together; rib; end with slip 1, knit 1, pull over, knit 6. 7th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 5; rib; end with seam 6, knit 2. 8th row-Slip 1, knit 5, knit 2 together; rib; 9th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 4; rib; end with seam 5, knit 2. 10th row-Slip 1, knit 4, knit 2 together; rib; end with slip 1, knit 1, pull over, knit 4. 11th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 3; rib; end with seam 4, knit 2. 12th row-Slip 1, knit 3, knit 2 together; rib; end with slip 1, knit 1, pull over, knit 3. 13th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 2; rib; end with seam 3, knit 2. 14th row-Slip 1, knit 2, knit 2 together; rib: end with slip 1, knit 1, pull over, knit 2. 15th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 1; rib; end with seam 2, knit 2. 16th row-Slip 1, knit 1, knit 2 together; rib; end with slip 1, knit 1, pull over, knit 2. 17th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 2; rib; end with seam 1, knit 2. 18th row-Slip 1, knit 1, knit 2 together; end with slip 1, knit 1, pull over, knit 2. 19th row-Slip 1, knit 1, seam 1; rib; end with seam 2, knit 2. Repeat the last four rows until you have only 16 stitches left on needle. Next row-Slip 1, knit 1, pull over; plain knit to the end. Repeat until you have 13 stitches left on needle. Cast off. A leather strap must be sewn to this gaiter at the gusset. This gaiter, in fingering worsted, will fit a child of fifteen months. Knitted in fleecy wool it is a very large size, so fewer loops should be cast on. X MEXICAN EMBROIDERY ON MUSLIN.-This is of an extremely fine quality, and is dyed in design is intended for ornamenting either a child's frock or a lady's petticoat. It is to be worked on fine mull muslin, and the parts to be covered with the embroidery are lined with muslin of a thicker quality. The two tucks below the stars are first lined, and the fancy stitching is worked on the right side. The stars are likewise lined, and the muslin at the back is cut away after the embroidery is finished. The design may be executed either with fine ingrain black silk, or with Pyrenean wool, which wool several brilliant colors. It washes well, and is now used in both Mexican and Russian embroideries for children's frocks, pinafores, petticoats, &c. The design before us is very effective when produced in scarlet and black Pyrenean wool on a white ground. The outer lines on the tucks should be black wool, and the connecting lines scarlet. The manner of connecting these two lines is illustrated. The Mexican stitch, with which the star is traced out, should be in black wool, and the crosses in scarlet. EDITOR'S DEPARTMENT. REPUBLICAN SIMPLICITY. one gets the beautiful premium engraving-" One of Life's Happy Hours"-which the members of a common club do not. We may say in conclusion, what we hope it is almost needless to say, that our premiums are what they represent themselves to be. They are neither worthless nor second-hand articles, but fresh from the hands of reliable manufacturers and importers. They are the same as are sold at the principal stores in New York and Philadelphia, at the prices mentioned. OUR STEEL ENGRAVINGS. In choosing literary matter for our Magazine, we are best pleased with American scenes and subjects; but it is matter for remark that in so choosing we do not necessarily present examples of republican simplicity. As our country grows older, its literature becomes more cosmopolitan. A picture of life and manners may be strictly American, yet outdo❘ the courts of kings in their own line of pomp and show. The old world, with its titles and pageants, and concentrated wealth, looks to us, of late years, for the most startling specimens of ostentatious splendor and lavish expenditure. The income of Stewart, the dry goods magnate of New York, goes We do not believe that any other Magazine this the rounds of foreign papers with notes of astonish-month will have as beautiful steel engravings as ment; as also some late revelations of luxury in dress indulged in by the butterflies of American upper-ten-dom. A certain Saratoga belle "requires 107 trunks and boxes to carry her personal luggage;" and a young lady in New York claims insurance upon her wardrobe, destroyed by fire, to the amount of 21,000 dollars, exclusive of jewelry-a sum which investigation proves to be much below cost; and, moreover, not an exceptional or even remarkable investment in dress for a woman of fashion. No wonder the Flora MacFlimseys who burden themselves with that amount of dry-goods have "nothing to wear." The bewilderment of such an embarras de richesse is as bad as destitution. After the toil and care of choosing her daily toilette from such a multifarious assortment, the unfortunate possessor would have no discernment left for the uses of life or faculties to enjoy it. Of course, the best society of our country looks down upon this inordinate dressing, as upon other outbreaks of shoddy and petroleum, with supreme contempt; justly tracing such misapplication of money to the crude and barbarous conceptions of its uses entertained by the suddenly rich. The best society of all countries is essentially alike. Those who make parade of wealth are vulgar people, whether among the lords and ladies of Europe or the mushroom gentry of America. OUR SPLENDID LIST OF PREMIUMS. We are glad that so many of our subscribers are availing themselves of the splendid premiums offered in our Prospectus. It is an excellent opportunity for any one wishing a Sewing Machine, a Clothes' Wringer, a Silver or Gold Watch, a beautiful Silverplated Tea Set, a fine Gun or Rifle, a set of Appleton's invaluable Cyclopedia, &c., to obtain it as the reward of a little labor. In getting up these premium lists, every subscriber must pay the regular price, $2.50; but then each those we present to the readers of "The Lady's Friend." "AT SEA" is particularly fine. It makes you almost realize the sensations of the voyagers, and see the moonlight glittering on the water, and feel the moist sea-air on your cheek. "WERTER'S CHARLOTTE" is also a beautiful picture, and would be interesting of itself without the associations of the story. As to our FASHION PLATE-double page in size, and beautifully engraved as usual on steel-all we have to say is, that it is such as we always give, and in advance, in all respects, as we think, of those of any other magazine. OUR NOVELETS. We commence two of our promised serial stories in the present number. mences Mrs. Henry Wood, author of "East Lynne," com"ORVILLE COLLEGE," which is to be a story somewhat in the vein of those excellent productions, "The Channings," "Mrs. Haliburton's Troubles," &c. We think her opening chapters capital reading. We also commence "How A WOMAN HAD HER WAY," by Elizabeth Prescott, which story has its peculiar merits-especially those of picturesqueness and brilliancy-and which we think will be read with great interest. TO TRACE DESIGNS ON CLOTH. First draw the pattern on rather stiff paper, and then prick holes with a good-sized pin, about a quarter of an inch apart, all along it, carefully following the design. Next, take a little flour in a muslin bag, and having laid down the paper with the pattern on the material, dust the flour well through the holes. On removing the paper, the design will be found sufficiently indicated on the cloth to admit of being drawn upon it permanently by means of whitening used with liquid gum, and applied with a camels' hair pencil. TO DRESS THE HAIR IN A COIL-First tie it all together at the back of the head, fastening in with it a thick piece of silk cord the color of the hair. Divide the hair into three or four tails, then twist one of the pieces round the cord so as to cover it; Take then twist it round the head and fasten it. another band of hair and twist that round the cord; fasten it round the head as before, and continue thus 79 Let your companion get out first; or, if you only Many a horse, in going into the country, will shy him up to the object, when his fear will be dispelled. If you flog him, on the next occasion his shying until the cord be completely covered, and the coil propensity will increase, as, expecting the whip, he sufficiently large to be becoming. WHAT THE PRESS SAY.-Our brethren of the press universally bestow high praise on "The Lady's Friend." We are sorry that we have not room for some of their commendations. If we neglect any to whom we owe an exchange, we should like to be reminded by a letter, if the marked paper has evidently been overlooked by us. will dart on before you are aware of what he is go- You should always lean forward going up hills, and backward going down. Never drive fast over the top of a hill, as the weight will fly forward suddenly, and cause the crupper to become as suddenly tight, which will very often be the cause of making your horse kick, and perhaps run away. You ney, as doing so takes a great deal out of your HINTS ON DRIVING FOR LADIES. (Concluded from December number.) Having started, it is not wise to drive fast, if you drive fast at all, until your horse has lost his stiff-should not drive fast up hill in taking a long journess, as all horses are more or less stiff on first coming out of the stable. It is more difficult to drive slowly than fast, and if you take notice, you will find all good coachmen doing the former. A first-rate whip once very truly said, "Any fool can drive fast." In meeting other conveyances, you take the right or off side, always looking out that they are not about to pull in and stop on the side that you would be passing; or, if so, immediately take the other. At the same time, take plenty of room, and keep a good hold of your horse, so as to get further One of the chief things out of the way, if requisite. in driving is, if possible, to avoid being run against by others. Never drive fast when close behind an omnibus; at times they stop very short, when it would be almost impossible to escape from running into them. Always pull in a little, and have your horse well in hand, before turning a corner, as some one may be driving in the opposite direction, your horse might slip down, or some pedestrian might be about to cross the road, when you would be obliged to pull up suddenly at the risk of your shafts. Having loose reins at such a time, you would have to, as they say at sea, "haul in the slack," and, by doing so, most likely overshoot the mark, and try to remedy it by coming round quickly, with a hard pull; and, even if no accident happens, this is very bad driving. Should you go a little beyond where you ought to have turned, pull up and come round gently. Always, before stopping, bring your horse to a walk, as, in doing so abruptly, you may sprain him. Horses are very often lamed in that way, and novices cannot think how it possibly could have occurred, never dreaming that starting hastily or pulling up abruptly could have anything to do with it. Turning back, first look well if there be space to admit of the length of your horse and carriage, and also that there be nothing coming; otherwise, by taking up the road, you bring them to a full stop. Turning ought not to be done by pulling one rein altogether, and letting the other loose; you should feel both sides of your horse's mouth, as, in turning a corner, pulling of course the one rein more than the other, and, if necessary, a gentle touch of the whip on the opposite side of the horse to that in In quitting the carriage which you wish to turn. the same rule is to be observed as in getting in. If a horse cannot be stopped when he first makes a start, by violently sawing his mouth, the best thing to be done is to sit still and endeavor to guide him out of danger; should you attempt to throw yourself out, you are likely to get more hurt than by waiting to let him do it for you. OUR PREMIUMS. BINGHAMTON, N. Y., Nov. 5, 1866. MESSRS. DEACON & PETERSON:-I have received -per express-Thursday, and now have in successful operation, a first-rate Sewing Machine, with which I am pleased and satisfied. The "Friend" is spoken highly of by all my subscribers, and I like it much. Please accept my sincere thanks for the highly honorable, gentlemanly, and prompt manner with which, on your part, the whole transaction has been conducted, as well as for the sewing machine, &c., and believe me to be, THE USE OF COLORS OF DRESS. The Orientals, and other inhabitants of tropical countries, such as the negroes of the West Indies, love to clothe themselves in brilliant and positive colors-reds and yellows, for instance. They are quite right in so doing. These bright colors contrast well with their dusky complexions. With us "pale-faces" it is different; we cannot bear positive Again, if the ground be black, with very narrow stripes or cross-bars of magenta color, a bright, but yet subdued effect, will result. This last effect is produced on the principle that as light is most brilliant when contrasted with a large portion of darkness-like the stars in a cloudless sky-so a small portion of bright colors is enhanced by contrast with a dark, and especially a black ground. Yellow, also, is a difficult color to harmonize with the complexion. A bright yellow, like that of the buttercup, contrasts well with black, and is becoming to brunes, when not placed next the skin; but pale yellow or greenish yellow suits no one, especially those with pale complexions. Its effect is to diffuse, by contrast, a purple hue over the complexion, and this is certainly no addition to beauty. Blue is favorable to most complexions; light or sky-blue especially those who are less fair, or in whom years have deso to fair persons with golden hair; fuller tints to Veloped more of the color of the sere and yellow leaf peculiar to autumn. It often happens that as persons advance in years, colors which suited them in youth cease to be becoming; pink, for instance, it does not harmonize with the yellow tints of more agrees with a youthful complexion and fair skin, but advanced age; in this case either sky-blue, or pure deep blue, will be substituted with advantage for pink. THE SCHOOL OF MADAME DE GENLIS IN 'to make even colors in immediate contact with the skin without injury to the complexion. Of all colors, perhaps the most trying to the complexion are the different shades of lilac and purple. The fashionable and really beautiful mauve and its varieties are, of course, included in this category. In accordance with the well known law of optics that all colors, simple or compound, have a tendency to tint surrounding objects with a faint spectrum of their complementary color, those above mentioned, which require for their harmony various tints of yellow and green, impart these supplementary colors to the complexion. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that of all complexions, those which turn upon the yellow are the most unpleasant in their effect-and proba- "The pavilion, built expressly for the school, lay bly for this reason, that in this climate it is always in the centre of the garden of the convent, with a sign of bad health. But, it will be asked, is there which it was connected by a trellised colonnade no means of harmonizing colors so beautiful in overhung with vines. She seems at once to have themselves with the complexion, and so avoiding conceived a definite idea of her duties, and to have these ill effects? To a certain extent, this may be carried it out consistently to the end. The housedone, and as follows: Should the complexion be hold was ordered with the strictest economy, the dark, the purple tint may be dark also; because, by furniture was simple, and more useful than ornacontrast, it makes the complexion appear fairer; if mental. I endeavored,' she says, the skin be pale or fair, the tint should be lighter. the furniture subserve to my scheme of education.' In either case, the color should never be placed next With this view, the walls were painted with medalthe skin, but should be parted from it by the hair lions of all the Roman emperors, carefully dated, and by a ruche of tulle, which produce the neutral- the fire-screens exposed the kings of France, while, izing effect of gray. Should the complexion still for convenience of reference, the hand-screens were appear too yellow, green leaves or green ribbons devoted to the gods and goddesses. Geography was may be worn as trimmings. This will often neu- remanded to the stairs, the maps of the south lying tralize lilac and purple colors, and thus prevent their at the bottom, and those of the north at the top, so imparting an unfavorable hue to the skin. Scarcely that the pleased observer, starting from the palms less difficult than maure to harmonize with the com- and temples' of the lowest step, slipped through plexion is the equally beautiful color called "ma-'eternal summer' somewhere in the middle of the genta." The complementary color would be yellow-flight, and discovered the North-West Passage' at green; "magenta," therefore, requires very nice the summit of the stairs. Over the doors, again, treatment to make it becoming. It must be sub- were scenes from Roman history; over the grate, in dued when near the skin, and this is best done by letters of gold, 'True happiness is of a retired nature, intermixture with black; either by diminishing its and an enemy to pomp and noise.' brightness by nearly covering it with black lace, or by introducing the color in very small quantity only. In connection with this color, I have recently observed some curious effects. First, as to its appearance alone: if in great quantity, the color, though beautiful in itself, is glaring, and difficult to harmonize with its accompaniments. Secondly, as to its combination with black: if the black and magenta color be of nearly equal quantities-such, for instance, as in checks of a square inch of each colorthe general effect is dull and somewhat neutral. If, on the contrary, the checks consist of magenta and white, alternately, a bright effect will be produced. "She had soon almost a school. Besides Mdlle. Adelaide d'Orleans, whose twin-sister died at five, her two daughters, Caroline and Pulchérie, lived with her. In the first year of her residence at the convent, she received a niece, Henrietta Cercey; later, a nephew, César, and a little English girl, the cele brated Pamela. In 1782, the Duke, to the great disgust of Palais Royal place-hunters, boldly made her Governor of his three sons, the Duke of Valois (Louis Philippe), then nine, the Duke of Montpensier, seven, and the little Count of Beaujolais, who was about three years old. She gave them a thoroughly practical education. The princes rose at |